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Thread: House of Caron

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    Default House of Caron

    What do you like from the house of Caron?

    I'm most familiar with Yatagan, which I have a bottle of. It's a strong, unique fragrance. It has huge personality. I have a sample of Tabac Blond edp on the way. I've tried Pour un Homme, and didn't quite agree with it. I've worn the Third Man and really liked it, but didn't feel like I had to have a bottle.

    How do you rate the Caron house relative to others, and how would you describe the house style?

    It looks like there are a lot of older feminine Caron's to be had online.

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    What do you like from the house of Caron?
    All the masculine releases with no exception.
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Yatagan
    Pour Un Homme and the Sport flanker
    Third Man

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Pre reformulation Carons were fabulous perfumes. The edt versions may not impress so much. They were upscale, luxury scents - very classy - you could get them decanted from urns. I really miss them. Quite feminine, even Tabac Blond and Poivre. They made a statement. I loved En Avion, Acaciosa, Fleurs de Rocaille, Alpona - Pois de Senteur was my favorite. This was a very serious traditional French perfume house.
    How do you know what a French whorehouse smells like?

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Zilpha View Post
    Pre reformulation Carons were fabulous perfumes. The edt versions may not impress so much. They were upscale, luxury scents - very classy - you could get them decanted from urns. I really miss them. Quite feminine, even Tabac Blond and Poivre. They made a statement. I loved En Avion, Acaciosa, Fleurs de Rocaille, Alpona - Pois de Senteur was my favorite. This was a very serious traditional French perfume house.
    Tell me more about the different concentrations.

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    My 70s Yatagan is an edt. The strength is more than ok for me. The Tabac Blond I have on the way is an edp. There's so much more to be had among edt's and edp's. I'm often really happy with a lighter concentration.

  7. #7

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm often really happy with a lighter concentration.
    As a rule, EDTs offer greater note separation. I enjoy the dynamism that comes from that.
    The Brooks Otterlake Swap Thread

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    As a rule, EDTs offer greater note separation. I enjoy the dynamism that comes from that.
    I've been playing around with vintage versions in different concentrations. I totally get the parfum lovers. I love the parfums, too. No question. Even the price per ml doesn't bother me that much anymore. I do love a spray, though, so that's an advantage for edt's and edp's, and I often like the fragrances just as much, or 98% as much.

  9. #9

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Tell me more about the different concentrations.

    I think that the Bellodgia edt and another late century one I had were less complex smelling than the edp's typically were. Oh they'll be strong enough, maybe just more linear. Bellodgia was just a straight up carnation scent anyway. Ernest Daltroff was the house perfumer. You can't go wrong with him.
    How do you know what a French whorehouse smells like?

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Zilpha View Post
    Ernest Daltroff was the house perfumer. You can't go wrong with him.
    That is a big shout out.

    Thank you so much for posting, Zilpha!

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    The three classic masculines are gorgeous and still in a great conditions.

    For the feminines, I agree with Zilpha. In the past, many were glorious, especially in parfum concentration. Caron was considered at the same level as Guerlain, if not even higher. I'd say that while Guerlain was known for its haze and smoothness, Caron had bolder, but still elegant, accords. Many perfume had a deep base, based on mousse de saxe, which became a sort of signature.

    But then they went downhill. IFRA hit badly, but even without IFRA most have been neutered. The brand has been changing hands, but with little results. Apparently, the brand is now in the hand of a Rotschild family member, though it's not clear that this will improve things.

    cacio

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    What do you like from the house of Caron?
    I enjoy all their masculine offerings, but their only feminine I've bonded with enough to go FB is Parfum Sacre.

    How do you rate the Caron house relative to others, and how would you describe the house style?
    If we're talking current feminine offerings, I'd say they hardly even bear discussing. Strangely, their masculines are still in pretty good shape.

    I've gotten the chance to sniff several vintage Carons in swaps, and some were indeed lovely (especially En Avion), but I was never enamoured enough to launch a full-scale vintage hunt. I have enough of those missions already. The women's are mostly too ruffles-and-bows for my taste, though their quality is easy to admire.

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    For the feminines, I agree with Zilpha. In the past, many were glorious, especially in parfum concentration. Caron was considered at the same level as Guerlain, if not even higher.
    That's quite a high level.

    Here are some of the ones Zilpha mentioned:

    1. Tabac Blond (1919)

    2. Acaciosa (1924)

    3. Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi (1927)

    4. En Avion (1929)

    5. Alpona (1939)

    6. Poivre (1954)

    7. Fleurs de Rocaille (1993)

  14. #14

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Similarly I’m familiar with Yatagan which was pleasant and I enjoyed the scent but it didn’t work for me because it doesn’t suit my style.

    Pour Un Homme and its Parfum were non starters and I simply didn’t get on with them. I don’t get the affection this one garners although that may be for vintage formulations.

    Third Man is however exceptional. This wonderfully floral powdery fougere will soon be getting a lot of use again. I find it suits cooler weather far more than hot and humid climates where the powdery aspects can become too cloying. I get parallels in feel and texture with Pour Monsieur EDP/Concentree which I’m also fond of.

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    TABAC BLOND I've sampled this in Vintage 70's 80's EDC,EDP, EDT, Lotion and Parfum. All are beautiful and carry appropriate development based upon concentration. Remarkable complexity and exemplary presentation of Carnation. Sugar balance is to the side of dry which for me has this Genderless in application. My preference is the Vintage lotion as it acts like a Contemporary EDT and lasts about 3-4 hours on my dry skin.
    Contemporary Parfum and EDP seem slightly sweeter focused on Clove and much less complex.

    YATAGAN Recent sampling Vintage chock full of Castoreum had me back into my High Testosterone virility teenage years. I've not lately tasted the Contemporary
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.

  16. #16

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post






    7. Fleurs de Rocaille (1993)
    Ah, I meant to mention that the original version I had was Fleurs de Rocaille (1934). Some kind of chicanery led to another scent by them to be named Fleur(no s) de Rocaille. (1993)
    How do you know what a French whorehouse smells like?

  17. #17

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    TABAC BLOND I've sampled this in Vintage 70's 80's EDC,EDP, EDT, Lotion and Parfum. All are beautiful and carry appropriate development based upon concentration. Remarkable complexity and exemplary presentation of Carnation. Sugar balance is to the side of dry which for me has this Genderless in application. My preference is the Vintage lotion as it acts like a Contemporary EDT and lasts about 3-4 hours on my dry skin.
    Contemporary Parfum and EDP seem slightly sweeter focused on Clove and much less complex.
    I've never smelled good vintage Tabac Blond; it sucks that great perfumes can't be recorded and reproduced like great music. Sigh.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Only pre-reformulation Carons are any good.

    My favorite vintage Carons:

    Tabac Blond
    Nuit de Noel
    Alpona
    Currently wearing: No. 19 by Chanel

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    I like L’Anarchiste

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Couronne de Violette View Post
    I've never smelled good vintage Tabac Blond; it sucks that great perfumes can't be recorded and reproduced like great music. Sigh.
    I know that 70's 80's Tabac Blond would seem to be good compared to Contemporary, however may seem not as good as a sample from an earlier time.
    The 70's and 80's were formative years for my nose, so I may hold a bias to placing excellence at that time.

    For example. I tend to place a 1986 Hermes Bel Ami as the goodest as it represents the closest to the perfumers original idea. Alterations to formula occured about 1989 that produced an arguably gooder idea.
    The same I could say when tasting 1989 Eau d'Hermes vs 2001 Coppertop. Or Bois Noir vs Egoiste.
    TABAC BLOND parfum pre 50's with provenance. What would be the asking price for that?
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Only pre-reformulation Carons are any good.

    My favorite vintage Carons:

    Tabac Blond
    Nuit de Noel
    Alpona
    When would you judge the era that produced the most damage was done?

    By the way you scent most lovely at the moment. Undoubtedly you are wearing some Stinky Vintage.
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    l haven't tried many, but l really enjoyed Acaciosa in vintage parfum, & the one l fell in love with is Narcisse Noir. Again, the vintage parfum is incredible, but the vintage EDT l own is almost as good. l also own a more recent EDT version, which is still a lovely fragrance, but lacks the dark animalic notes of the vintage.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  23. #23

    Default Re: House of Caron

    I have quite a number of Caron's not the newer recent reformulations mine from the late 90s.

    I believe the first one I tried was Narcisse Noir back in the late 90s, totally underwhelmed by the EDT but the extract WOW!

    With Caron in the feminines, it was always the edp or extracts you needed to buy to really understand the house.

    People raved about Tabac Blond but I just could not get it to work for me, I bought En Avion instead.

    Violette Précieuse used to have this weird but wonderful stewed celery note which the reformulation got rid of now it is just a pretty violet fragrance.

    My favourite of the feminines is Alpona, I have a few bottles of the extract.

    Le 3rd Man is my favourite from the masculine range.

    Well, Caron is older than Chanel. It is what should be classed as a true classic perfume house equal to say Guerlain. I would say they are most famous for their feminine florals rose, violet and iris.
    DONNA

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    I view the House of Caron is an essential part of perfume history. Ernest Daltroff and his partner Felicie Vanpouille (who ran Caron from Daltroff’s death in 1941 to 1962 and is credited with the influential bottle designs) created masterpieces.

    Caron feminine perfumes range from rich resinous compositions to sprightly and/or heady florals. There are often significant variations between vintage and newer bottles. I have spent many happy hours hunting vintage Carons, but they are increasingly scarce and expensive.

    I love Caron vintage parfums (of course) but I also find the vintage EDT’s to be very good, especially older sealed splashes, which are sometimes sealed with an embossed metal cap, like vintage Chanel EDT’s. I have Fleurs de Rocaille and Nuit de Noel in the vintage EDT like this and they’re excellent.

    IMG_1426.jpg

    Narcisse Noir in this version of a spray EDT was unrecognizable and I swapped it, so now I don’t look at any of the Caron EDT sprays in this packaging (1980’s I believe).

    IMG_3250.jpg

    As Cacio has noted, the Mousse de Saxe base is a distinctive feature of many classic Carons. To my nose, Nuit de Noel has to be be at least ½ Mousse de Saxe. Tabac Blond, En Avion, Or et Noir, and Parfum Sacre also have some. I have given up hope of ever finding a vintage bottle of Or et Noir, but with some of the Perfumers Supply House Turkish rose absolute and Saxony Base (a faithful reproduction of Mousse de Saxe), I feel I can survive.

    Infini (1970, not the original L’Infini of 1922) is a truly atypical Caron. It’s an aldehydic chypre floral, a little like Caleche.

    Like Cook.bot, I love Parfum Sacre (1990). I think it was the last great Caron, IMHO. The vintage EDP is a wintertime staple for me.

    Aimez Moi (1996) is very pretty.

    I am curious to know if anyone has ordered from the current Caron boutique and what you think of the perfumes you've received. There are signs of rebirth there, including En Avion and Narcisse Noir parfum in the iconic bottle at a fair price when compared to vintage (½ oz for $190). They direct you to their Amazon e-store (?) for some products but suggest calling the Paris boutiques regarding shipping of other items,
    Currently wearing: Tabac Blond by Caron

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Aimez Moi and Violette Precieuse are destroyed in their current form. Just awful. So sad.

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Only pre-reformulation Carons are any good.

    My favorite vintage Carons:

    Tabac Blond
    Nuit de Noel
    Alpona
    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    l haven't tried many, but l really enjoyed Acaciosa in vintage parfum, & the one l fell in love with is Narcisse Noir. Again, the vintage parfum is incredible, but the vintage EDT l own is almost as good. l also own a more recent EDT version, which is still a lovely fragrance, but lacks the dark animalic notes of the vintage.
    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    With Caron in the feminines, it was always the edp or extracts you needed to buy to really understand the house.

    People raved about Tabac Blond but I just could not get it to work for me, I bought En Avion instead.

    Violette Précieuse used to have this weird but wonderful stewed celery note which the reformulation got rid of now it is just a pretty violet fragrance.

    My favourite of the feminines is Alpona, I have a few bottles of the extract.

    Le 3rd Man is my favourite from the masculine range.

    Well, Caron is older than Chanel. It is what should be classed as a true classic perfume house equal to say Guerlain. I would say they are most famous for their feminine florals rose, violet and iris.
    Great posting everyone! Thank you so much! I'm using Zilpha's list as a working outline of what I might want to sample, especially the ones getting second and third recommendations (En Avion, Alpona). It's great to hear good things about the edp's.

    Zilpha's list:

    1. Tabac Blond (1919)

    2. Acaciosa (1924)

    3. Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi (1927)

    4. En Avion (1929)

    5. Fleurs de Rocaille (1936)

    6. Alpona (1939)

    7. Poivre (1954)

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    In the late 80's I had a few. Most were special edition mini's; others were partial bottles given to me by a relative: Acacisoa, Bellodgia, En Avion, Nocturnes, Pois de Senteur, Poivre, Tabac Blond, and With Pleasure. Being in my 20's I felt most of these were way too strong for me. My faves were Poivre and En Avion.

    I have a bottle of Royal Bain de Caron from the late 90's.

    Of the Newer or reforms, I own and love Montaigne and Parfum Sacre Intense. Also, of newer scents, I owned bottles of Aimez-Moi and Fleur de Rocaille. I sold off the latter years ago, not because I didn't care for them but, I needed some quick cash.

    All in all, the vintage Carons are the ones to find - if, one can find them without paying out the nose. Now that I am older and my tastes have changed, matured, and expanded more, I know I would've appreciated [the ones I had back in the 80's], had I tried them now. My 2 cents...

  28. #28
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    I know of at least one Basenoter, Kumquat, who makes a specialty of collecting Carons and orders them from the boutique in France.

    Her particular favorite is French CanCan, one that you don't see mentioned often.

  29. #29

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    When would you judge the era that produced the most damage was done?
    The perfumes started getting deconstructed when Alès took over. Now that they have sold Caron, let's hope the new owners will want to restore the scents, inasmuch as that is possible today.
    ​"It was foolish of her not to have bought a larger bottle."

    Dorothy Eden, The Time of the Dragon

  30. #30

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Vintage Infini--en extrait--in that wonderful bottle is really, really good. My mother and grandmother both wore Bellodgia so I of course love it. I love, own and wear all of the masculines.
    Very clearly a case for corn flakes and classics
    Currently wearing: Ferrari Uomo by Ferrari




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