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Thread: Vintage Dior

  1. #31

    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Thank you so much for the pictures! You like a splash, I see. It's nice to see some edc. We have one of those splashes.
    You’re very welcome. It was your lovely Dior thread that enabled some of this!

    The Dior EDCs really are super. I usually like a more concentrated formulation, but these older Dior’s really were spectacularly worked out. The fact they have survived as well as they have, and that they retain the overall character and form of the more concentrated versions, speaks to the quality of materials and thought that went into these. They represent excellent value for anyone wanting to explore the house. Yes, they’re a little shorter lived, but the volume available for the price tends to make up for that
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  2. #32
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    I adore the old Diors, though I don’t have that many any more
    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    And, here’s my Miss Diors:
    In light of the photographic evidence, would you care to revise that original statement?

    Seriously though, I'm envious of that large Miss D cologne. I was always rather snooty about the superiority of the Roudnitska Diors, and never really fell in love with Miss D until I tried the EDC formulation. It completely won me over, but I only got a small houndstooth 30ml splash, and clearly I'm going to need a bigger one.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Note: Bavard's original vintage Dior thread is back! Hurrah!

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/442...ior-Circa-1980

    Hopefully this thread can be merged into it at some point. It's such a trove of Dior information and photos.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Note: Bavard's original vintage Dior thread is back! Hurrah!

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/442...ior-Circa-1980

    Hopefully this thread can be merged into it at some point. It's such a trove of Dior information and photos.
    Hurray! So is the Primer on Cristalle that I was in the middle of reading - and others.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Ysatis by Givenchy

  5. #35

    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    In light of the photographic evidence, would you care to revise that original statement?
    Haha, perhaps I should, though I’ll qualify that this actually represents almost all my Dior’s at the current time. They’ve become prohibitively expensive, and are recognizable enough that it’s rare to find a good deal. Miss D is still good value, and it’s a lot of elegance for a modest price. She will have to satisfy my vintage Dior craving until I either win the lottery, or until I stumble on a hidden cache of these!

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Seriously though, I'm envious of that large Miss D cologne. I was always rather snooty about the superiority of the Roudnitska Diors, and never really fell in love with Miss D until I tried the EDC formulation. It completely won me over, but I only got a small houndstooth 30ml splash, and clearly I'm going to need a bigger one.
    Me too. Roudnitska is probably my favourite perfumer, and I overlooked Miss Dior for many years. I’m making up for lost time though
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  6. #36

    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Note: Bavard's original vintage Dior thread is back! Hurrah!

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/442...ior-Circa-1980

    Hopefully this thread can be merged into it at some point. It's such a trove of Dior information and photos.
    Hurrah!

    And, Cook.bot, I’m envious of your fall rotation. Your all-green September sounds divine.
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  7. #37

    Red face Re: Vintage Dior

    My Dior's photo de famille, including vintage minis
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #38
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilturko View Post
    My Dior's photo de famille, including vintage minis
    That covers most of it. You seem big on Poison. I'm curious how you would describe it. I've never worn Poison.

    I'm new to Dioressence, and liking it so far. It looks like you have a couple Dioressence edt's.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    That covers most of it. You seem big on Poison. I'm curious how you would describe it. I've never worn Poison.

    I'm new to Dioressence, and liking it so far. It looks like you have a couple Dioressence edt's.
    Hi, Bavard.
    Please read this as a mere personal point of view. I find Poison less loud than commonly believed. It has presence, but I find it's a balanced presence. Perhaps it depends from the amount of fragrance applied and probably those who have been almost suffocated by Poison during the 80s were actually the victim of some oversprayer. I have vivid memories of it and I don't remember it was the olfactive weapon many say it is.
    I usually apply two sprays and when I do that, I enjoy it through the day, until the base notes where I smell the musk and especially the incense. Before this phase, Poison displays spicy dark fruits notes, not sweet to me, over a backdrop of dense white florals (jasmine, tuberose). It has fruity facets, but it's not foody. Poison is thick and dark but in the meantime it manages to show some tinted shiny transparency, gleaming reflection. I don't find it vampy or vampiresque at all. To me, it does not conjures images of dangerous purple dressed film noir femme fatales. In some way, I find it austere, almost ascetic, serene and comforting, gothic indeed but like sitting on the bench in a dark gothic cathedral, the daylight filtered by the mixed colours of stained glass rose windows.

    As you pointed out, I have two Dioressence edt, one a 50ml spray and the other is a 10ml miniature. Dioressence is one of my favourite vintage Dior fragrances. It's an interesting intersection between a chypre and an oriental. I used to like amber fragrances, then my tastes changed and today I'm not into amber scents as I was years ago. Dioressence is one of the vintage amber based perfumes I like because the chypre side keeps in check what could have become a sweet powdery amber, making it more balsamic and resinous. I think its nowadays successor might be L'Ombre Fauve by Pierre Guillaume, amber wrapped in earthy patchouli.
    Last edited by Gilturko; 27th September 2019 at 01:24 PM.

  10. #40
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    Exclamation Moderator Message

    Let's get back on track please.

    The topic we are discussing here is Vintage Dior. All non-relevant posts have since been removed.

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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilturko View Post
    Hi, Bavard.
    Please read this as a mere personal point of view. I find Poison less loud than commonly believed. It has presence, but I find it's a balanced presence. Perhaps it depends from the amount of fragrance applied and probably those who have been almost suffocated by Poison during the 80s were actually the victim of some oversprayer. I have vivid memories of it and I don't remember it was the olfactive weapon many say it is.
    I usually apply two sprays and when I do that, I enjoy it through the day, until the base notes where I smell the musk and especially the incense. Before this phase, Poison displays spicy dark fruits notes, not sweet to me, over a backdrop of dense white florals (jasmine, tuberose). It has fruity facets, but it's not foody. Poison is thick and dark but in the meantime it manages to show some tinted shiny transparency, gleaming reflection. I don't find it vampy or vampiresque at all. To me, it does not conjures images of dangerous purple dressed film noir femme fatales. In some way, I find it austere, almost ascetic, serene and comforting, gothic indeed but like sitting on the bench in a dark gothic cathedral, the daylight filtered by the mixed colours of stained glass rose windows.

    As you pointed out, I have two Dioressence edt, one a 50ml spray and the other is a 10ml miniature. Dioressence is one of my favourite vintage Dior fragrances. It's an interesting intersection between a chypre and an oriental. I used to like amber fragrances, then my tastes changed and today I'm not into amber scents as I was years ago. Dioressence is one of the vintage amber based perfumes I like because the chypre side keeps in check what could have become a sweet powdery amber, making it more balsamic and resinous. I think its nowadays successor might be L'Ombre Fauve by Pierre Guillaume, amber wrapped in earthy patchouli.
    Lovely post, Gilturko. Two sprays for a full day's wearing does sound like strong juice.

    Some of the crossover fragrances from traditional to modern are interesting. You talking about Poison reminds me of Chanel's Platinum Egoiste from the 90s, a traditional house trying something louder and more modern.

    I would quite like a fragrance to conjure film noir femme fatales. I'd pay a lot for that.

    I will think of Dioressence during the next wearing as intersecting between chypre and oriental, and try to appreciate the balance of the amber.

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilturko View Post
    My Dior's photo de famille, including vintage minis
    Very nice collection. Have you tried the Dior Homme lineup?
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Today’s SOTA for me is a bottle I just got, NIB sealed, of 1990 Dioressence. I really love it. It is really almost an oriental Dior feminine, and I love that. I love the dried fruits, and the spices and base, and the massive florals. Just spectacular.

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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Purchased yesterday with the eBay coupon and ebates 6% rebate on top. Sweet!
    224F4E2D-4D93-4C6C-8C1D-376AD8ED09AD.jpg
    Currently wearing: Chypre Palatin by MDCI

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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by wildrnesxperienc View Post
    Purchased yesterday with the eBay coupon and ebates 6% rebate on top. Sweet!
    224F4E2D-4D93-4C6C-8C1D-376AD8ED09AD.jpg
    Super. Congratulations

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by wildrnesxperienc View Post
    Purchased yesterday with the eBay coupon and ebates 6% rebate on top. Sweet!
    That stuff should hit the spot.

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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by wildrnesxperienc View Post
    Purchased yesterday with the eBay coupon and ebates 6% rebate on top. Sweet!
    224F4E2D-4D93-4C6C-8C1D-376AD8ED09AD.jpg
    Wonderful stuff, my favorite of Dior's perfume lineup.
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  18. #48
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    To me, Dioressence is the atypical vintage Dior. It has more vanilla in its base than any other vintage Dior (pre-Poison, that is.) It almost leans towards the Guerlain style. The combination of green top notes (bergamot, galbanum), floral (gardenia, narcissus), and a resinous, sweetened woody base with patchouli always reminds me of vintage Vol de Nuit. They're not the same, but there's a connection...
    Completely agree.
    Two of my favourite perfumes.
    Their constructs do have similarities but the greenness of galbanum and oakmoss in Dioressence stands solid in face of Vol de Nuit's crystalline ambery base notes.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Pace Turin, I don't believe that Dioressence was significantly reformulated in the 1960's-70's. I've compared Dioressence in the original aqua blue packaging to the dark blue accented packaging and they're the same. There have been more recent reformulations of course.
    However "this" Dioressence came out in 1979, it wasn't there in 60-70s (or did you rather mean 80-90s era?) and I do have bottles from 1990-91.
    I find the current less green and maybe not as complex.
    The vintage Dioressence is so effortless in execution despite its complexity, it makes your hackles rise.
    Guy Robert was a superb perfumer.
    Last edited by Pallas Moncreiff; 1st October 2019 at 01:02 AM. Reason: to emphasis 'this' relaunch

  19. #49

    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Pallas Moncreiff View Post
    Completely agree.
    Two of my favourite perfumes.
    Their constructs do have similarities but the greenness of galbanum and oakmoss in Dioressence stands solid in face of Vol de Nuit's crystalline ambery base notes.


    However Dioressence came out in 1979, it wasn't there in 60-70s (or did you rather mean 80-90s era?) and I do have bottles from 1990-91.
    I find the current less green and maybe not as complex.
    The vintage Dioressence is so effortless in execution despite its complexity, it makes your hackles rise.
    Guy Robert was a superb perfumer.
    I do like the greenness in the Dioressence, and the oakmoss and good for me because it is easier for me to get than the Vol de Nuit.

    The dating confused me because I have some Dioressence in the houndstooth bottles which I thought were earlier, so I looked on the Basenotes directory and it says Dioressence came out in 1969. Is that not correct?
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  20. #50
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    The original Dioressence was in 1969 (it was there for a limited time).
    But, using the same base, Dior reissued it in 1979 and made it ?sweeter and less animalic.
    Luca Turin has written about it.
    https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/06/chr...ge-modern.html

    The current reformulations are all from 1979's version; any vintage you will find are almost all from the 1979 issue. I should have added Max Gavarry's name but I feel the key to it belongs to M. Robert.
    If someone has 1969 original, well... one can only be envious.

  21. #51

    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Pallas Moncreiff View Post
    The original Dior was in 1969.
    But, using the same base, Dior reissued it in 1979 and made it ?sweeter and less animalic.
    (the first one didn't sell well)
    Luca Turin has written about it.
    https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/06/chr...ge-modern.html

    The current reformulations are all from 1979's version; any vintage you will find are almost all from the 1979 issue.
    If someone has 1969, well... one can only be envious.
    Ah! Thanks for the article link. I didn’t know about that weird decade. So are the oval houndstooth splashes from 1969, or later do you suppose?
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  22. #52
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Type in Dioressence vintage and you will see many different versions of dark-blue pebble pattern boxes.
    There is also an older one which is a cream coloured box with an oval blue stamp.
    If anyone knows for sure, please chime in.

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Hi all-

    We discussed the change in Dioressence packaging in our prior vintage Dior thread starting around here (post #68 and on):

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/442...rca-1980/page3

    Unfortunately, my photos have vanished (why? I wonder). I will try to find them again. After this exchange, I had the opportuunity to test even more Dioressence in the first aqua blue packaging, the Eau Parfumee in the opaque aqua blue bottle, which continued to suppiort my belief that Dioressence was not significantly reformulated from 1969 to 1979.

  24. #54
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Thank you for clarifying and the thread.

  25. #55
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hi all-

    We discussed the change in Dioressence packaging in our prior vintage Dior thread starting around here (post #68 and on):

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/442...rca-1980/page3

    Unfortunately, my photos have vanished (why? I wonder). I will try to find them again. After this exchange, I had the opportuunity to test even more Dioressence in the first aqua blue packaging, the Eau Parfumee in the opaque aqua blue bottle, which continued to suppiort my belief that Dioressence was not significantly reformulated from 1969 to 1979.
    In one of your great posts I see the photo of the original blue bottle. It’s there and very helpful. Dioressence 1969.

  26. #56

    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hi all-

    We discussed the change in Dioressence packaging in our prior vintage Dior thread starting around here (post #68 and on):

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/442...rca-1980/page3

    Unfortunately, my photos have vanished (why? I wonder). I will try to find them again. After this exchange, I had the opportuunity to test even more Dioressence in the first aqua blue packaging, the Eau Parfumee in the opaque aqua blue bottle, which continued to suppiort my belief that Dioressence was not significantly reformulated from 1969 to 1979.
    Thanks for that pointer to the Dioressence topic in the prior Dior thread. Great posts on the subject.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
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  27. #57
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    I'm glad some of you found that link to the earlier Dior thread interesting. The oft-retold story of Dioressence's reformulation between 1969 and 1979 when the packaging changed from pale aqua blue to dark blue hasn't been borne out in my testing. I first noticed this with bottles of the bath perfume oil in both types of packaging. And then Tale of a Rose, a great Fragrantica vintager, kindly sent me a sample of the aqua blue "Eau Parfumee" = EDT? EDP? which I compared to the dark blue vintage EDT, and I didn't see significant differences.

    The top 3 photos below show the post-1979 versions. The photo on the left in the bottom row shows the next iteration, from the 1990's I believe, and the white box with the blue oval is the most recent version. I haven't tried either of these, but I would be curious to hear from anyone who has them.

    1B27B7DF-3453-448A-8191-2684C809567F.jpg

  28. #58
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Eau Sauvage

    DC580D3E-2F98-4C16-956C-7EEEBBAABE45.jpg

    There are some major fans of this one on the site. I just have a little stash (0.34 ounces).

    As named, it is in the "Eau" style of citrus colognes. It's quite pleasant. Lemony.

    I, myself, do not get much overlap with the feminine Dior fragrances, which I think makes me a bit of an outlier. Similar fragrances to me might be Eau de Patou or Armani Eau Pour Homme.
    Last edited by Bavard; 2nd October 2019 at 01:35 PM.

  29. #59
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    I wore Dioressence vintage, maybe early 1990s, yesterday and the dry down is just exquisite. This is what is missing in today's even good fragrances because the materials simply aren't there. Then, they were there, and it is simply amazing.

  30. #60
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    Default Re: Vintage Dior

    Just collected my box of delights this afternoon. This seems like an appropriate place to unveil it






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