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  1. #1

    Default Help/ Advice Understanding Perfume Creation

    Hi! I'm a budding perfumer hobbyist and I'm trying to understand some basics of perfumery. Do I have the basic idea of perfume creation correct?

    1) create a heart accord (or base accord) which appeals to you,
    2) build the rest of the perfume around that accord using complementing top and base notes?
    3) Modify your oils as you find pleasing to your nose and use 'blenders' for a smooth transition between top, middle, and base notes.

    I've found explicitly stated formulas shared online which I've tried with success but I'd like to create a perfume of my own. I'm not trained in chemistry or mathematics so I guess my approach is limited to more of a gut level art rather than technical. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Dec 2007
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    Default Re: Help/ Advice Understanding Perfume Creation

    For as untrained as you say, your concept is just fine for where you sit.

    The one modification I might offer is that the term "blenders", now as fairly experienced, seems to me to be an immature way to define some raw materials.
    This seems to stem from not having a better understanding of these raw materials, of their interplay and relative strengths as against other raw materials.
    Just because something is weaker, and doesn't scream at you, doesn't make it a "blender", it just makes it useful for what it is, in larger quantities than other materials that are much louder and have greater volume and diffusion.

    If you correlate the Jean Carles method of balancing a pair of materials, just because one material is louder and one is softer, the softer material isn't a blender, it's just a softer material.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Help/ Advice Understanding Perfume Creation

    The approach can work but seeing Jean Carles mentioned, it certainly wasn't his approach.

    I know the perfume industry loves the term "heart notes." It makes them sound precious and special, much more so than "mid" does. The "heart" of the perfume must be, well, the heart of it, right?

    Yet Jean Carles used the term "modifiers" for the mid notes, as things chosen to deal with problems remaining with the bases notes!

    Now I don't go quite there either, but prefer to avoid adding emotional bias with my terminology.

    And suppose somehow someone converted all my middle-substantivity materials to having long substantivity. Oh my, now I have no "heart" notes! Surely I'm ruined? Well no, actually I'd say "thank you" I believe.

    Back to the original question:

    Your set (accord) of base notes has to be good on its own and should really be a satisfactory statement -- after all at some point you will have only the base notes!

    We do want it to smell better yet when you have the mid notes in there.

    And then there's your presentation.

    There is an excellent thread on just this subject ( ), with building from the base up being fairly broadly supported but certainly a great discussion of variations in personal style or method.

    I do tend to have an overall vision from the beginning that includes all of it though, as well as pictures of little parts of it. A simple example, I might have Fir Balsam Absolute in my vision of the base in some small part, but feel I will need more in the opening notes, so could be planning some Coniferan to go with it. Rather than conceiving the base but having absolutely no idea about the rest tlll I was completely finished with the base.

    And most certainly, various mid (or "heart") notes could be absolutely integral to the concept. For example, if conceiving a fougere you could hardly be forgetting the lavender.

    EDIT: On re-reading I saw on one point what I wrote was quite different from what I meant. I meant, but botched, that what I thought broadly supported in the thread was the base needing to be right, else the rest won't be, and that it needs to be able to stand on its own when the time comes; not that it must be gotten right before even thinking about the rest. At least I certainly don't believe that second idea and I didn't have the impression anyone was suggesting that. Just bad writing if it appeared that way.
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 10th October 2019 at 05:47 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Help/ Advice Understanding Perfume Creation

    Thank you both Paul and Bill for clarification on both 'blenders' and 'heart'. Much appreciated. I'll check out Jean Carles 'method of creation' which I just downloaded and also that thread-link you included Bill. Creating perfume is exciting

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