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  1. #1

    Default How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Hey all,

    I'm new to DIY perfumery and am attempting to make a neroli-oud blend. Only issue is, that real neroli oil smells nothing like the neroli accord in Tom Ford Neroli Portofino Forte, nor does real basil oil smell anything like the basil note in it.

    Can anyone help me out on what I should use to approximate the neroli and basil notes in NP Forte?
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  2. #2

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    I have not smelled the perfume you are asking but wanted to provide the information that real neroli oil costs in the neighborhood of $300/oz and up. If you paid less than this, your source provided a fake.

    Also, while the commercial perfume won't have used real neroli, it could be worth pointing out that real perfumes commonly have notes that make up only 5% or even only 1% or less of the formulation. Beginners, having only relatively few materials, tend to use things at much higher percentages. If for example basil really is used in a formula, the finished product may not seem like "real basil" except if used to working with it at low concentrations. For example, I ordinarily use basil at only 1 or 2%.

  3. #3

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    I have not smelled the perfume you are asking but wanted to provide the information that real neroli oil costs in the neighborhood of $300/oz and up. If you paid less than this, your source provided a fake.

    Also, while the commercial perfume won't have used real neroli, it could be worth pointing out that real perfumes commonly have notes that make up only 5% or even only 1% or less of the formulation. Beginners, having only relatively few materials, tend to use things at much higher percentages. If for example basil really is used in a formula, the finished product may not seem like "real basil" except if used to working with it at low concentrations. For example, I ordinarily use basil at only 1 or 2%.
    Interesting...I see
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  4. #4

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Anyone know what the neroli accord in NP Forte would possibly be made of? Or even just regular Tom Ford Neroli Portofino?
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  5. #5

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    I cannot at all answer for specific products.

    One might claim a neroli note with something as simple as nerolin bromelia, or that plus oranger crystals, if already having citrus that just needed to be added to. It would not be a very good neroli but it's probably been done.

    I am not yet really satisfied with any neroli I have done, which is a pretty new project to me, but example materials I have been using towards building neroli are Robertet Bigaradier Heart, Rosewood Leaf e.o. or White Lotus rosewood base, Petitgrain Bigarade, nerol, nerolidol, limonene, indole or Indocolore, aldehyde C10, Petitgrain Absolute, beta ocimene, beta pinene, alpha terpineol, geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, neryl acetate, and methyl anthranilate and will soon be trying myrcene and E-nerolidol. Pleasant smelling mixtures are easy, "that's NEROLI!" is elusive.

    Not at all from the standpoint of advising or recommending anyone how to do it but to illustrate there can be a fair bit to neroli. I suppose that's why people pay a lot for the real thing. For no particular reason, it happens to be pretty much all-natural or nature-identical that I'm using, I highly expect the top professional perfumers have synthetics they use to advantage though that said, I don't think much of any synthetic neroli base I've bought or received samples of. On the other hand, the best stuff doesn't go into the commodity bases.

    Also, there's no need within a perfume for any part of it to replicate or nearly replicate neroli. What's of more interest to me is what do I need to add to bergamot to appear to have a fine bergamot/neroli blend. I expect that that will be a lot less ingredients than the above. Quite a bit of that list is duplicative with bergamot or can be redundant with, say, a floral base or absolute and so is not characteristically neroli if they are providing the materials In greater amounts.

    That might be more complicated than you wanted to hear. It's possible that someone has a simple answer.

    By the way, I think the vast majority of perfumes having neroli as a note have 95% of the formula being other things. "Only" 90% being other things would be quite pronounced for neroli.

    So even if having the exact formula for how the neroli note was achieved for a given commercial perfume, there would still be another 90-95% to figure out before having anything similar.

  6. #6

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    I cannot at all answer for specific products.

    One might claim a neroli note with something as simple as nerolin bromelia, or that plus oranger crystals, if already having citrus that just needed to be added to. It would not be a very good neroli but it's probably been done.

    I am not yet really satisfied with any neroli I have done, which is a pretty new project to me, but example materials I have been using towards building neroli are Robertet Bigaradier Heart, Rosewood Leaf e.o. or White Lotus rosewood base, Petitgrain Bigarade, nerol, nerolidol, limonene, indole or Indocolore, aldehyde C10, Petitgrain Absolute, beta ocimene, beta pinene, alpha terpineol, geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, neryl acetate, and methyl anthranilate and will soon be trying myrcene and E-nerolidol. Pleasant smelling mixtures are easy, "that's NEROLI!" is elusive.

    Not at all from the standpoint of advising or recommending anyone how to do it but to illustrate there can be a fair bit to neroli. I suppose that's why people pay a lot for the real thing. For no particular reason, it happens to be pretty much all-natural or nature-identical that I'm using, I highly expect the top professional perfumers have synthetics they use to advantage though that said, I don't think much of any synthetic neroli base I've bought or received samples of. On the other hand, the best stuff doesn't go into the commodity bases.

    Also, there's no need within a perfume for any part of it to replicate or nearly replicate neroli. What's of more interest to me is what do I need to add to bergamot to appear to have a fine bergamot/neroli blend. I expect that that will be a lot less ingredients than the above. Quite a bit of that list is duplicative with bergamot or can be redundant with, say, a floral base or absolute and so is not characteristically neroli if they are providing the materials In greater amounts.

    That might be more complicated than you wanted to hear. It's possible that someone has a simple answer.

    By the way, I think the vast majority of perfumes having neroli has a note have 95% of the formula being other things. "Only" 90% being other things would be quite pronounced for neroli.

    So even if having the exact formula for how the neroli note was achieved for a given commercial perfume, there would still be another 90-95% to figure out before having anything similar.
    hmm ok
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  7. #7

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Or, it doesn't actually smell like neroli, but nerolione might be called "neroli" in a perfume pyramid, and is quite suitable to modern perfume.

  8. #8

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    This might be off-topic here, but Orange Flower Ether has characteristics that can be a bit reminiscent of neroli. It's very potent, sharp heady alcoholic perfume, probably better used to give an accent to something else that's more nebulously pleasant and sweet.
    In low concentration it's a little orange-bergamot, slight metallic nuance (like neroli can have), and slightly green.
    but it's not the scratchy textured component of orange/bergamot, more like the plain base in the background. the green facet is somewhere in-between the green of methyl pamplemousse and bitter green herbs.

    I suppose they only say it resembles "Orange Flower" because it doesn't have the scratchy/woody terpene or "edible" tang/zing that the fruits would have.
    I'll just say this, it's a regal type of heady smell to make a statement, not something casual you'd smell to relax.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    It's not actually that hard to make a neroli base for yourself... It is one of the easier things (in the grand scheme of Perfumery) to try to challenge yourself, and accomplish as a learning perfumer.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  10. #10

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    It's not actually that hard to make a neroli base for yourself... It is one of the easier things (in the grand scheme of Perfumery) to try to challenge yourself, and accomplish as a learning perfumer.
    any advice on how to make it?
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  11. #11
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    Southern California
    Posts
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    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    https://frater.com/blog/2017/09/09/n...base/#more-135

    and there are any number of GC's available, so many places to look at building it by a gc result...
    Jamie's formula above is founded upon petitgrain terpenenless, which is not sold in less than 1kg, I think, so it is harder to source in small qty. But it is pretty simple, otherwise.

    I've collected half a dozen Neroli GC results, just look around and see what you can find, if that is the path you choose to take.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  12. #12

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    If I understood correctly the question was how to achieve the "neroli" note in named perfumes, while real neroli or at least what the OP had as neroli was not satisfying the need.

    Seeroos, your replies have been rather cryptic: do you have real neroli? Or a fragrance oil or something else not extremely pricey?

    If you have real neroli, indeed it is not the note you want?

    Paul, while I don't have anything calling itself petitgrain oil terpeneless, isn't Bigaradier Heart either terpeneless or nearly so? At any rate I find it quite nice as the major component of a neroli base.
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 16th October 2019 at 11:32 PM. Reason: Accidental name misspelling

  13. #13

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    If I understood correctly the question was how to achieve the "neroli" note in named perfumes, while real neroli or at least what the OP had as neroli was not satisfying the need.

    Seerors, your replies have been rather cryptic: do you have real neroli? Or a fragrance oil or something else not extremely pricey?

    If you have real neroli, indeed it is not the note you want?

    Paul, while I don't have anything calling itself petitgrain oil terpeneless, isn't Bigaradier Heart either terpeneless or nearly so? At any rate I find it quite nice as the major component of a neroli base.
    I have real neroli. It is nice but a bit too green and bitter. I want that sweet "neroli" accord in Tom Ford Neroli Portofino. Perhaps it's not the neroli at all and maybe other things I should be looking at to get that sweetness, like blood orange oil perhaps.
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  14. #14

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by seeroos.syed View Post
    I have real neroli. It is nice but a bit too green and bitter. I want that sweet "neroli" accord in Tom Ford Neroli Portofino. Perhaps it's not the neroli at all and maybe other things I should be looking at to get that sweetness, like blood orange oil perhaps.
    What type of sweetness is it? Is it a floral sweetness or an edible sweetness?
    If it's a floral sweetness, you can probably just add benzyl benzoate. That may likely be the solution.
    There's also benzyl methyl ether.

  15. #15

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by parker25mv View Post
    What type of sweetness is it? Is it a floral sweetness or an edible sweetness?
    If it's a floral sweetness, you can probably just add benzyl benzoate. That may likely be the solution.
    There's also benzyl methyl ether.
    Floral sweetness... Hmm ok
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  16. #16

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Well since it is not particularly neroli itself that has the smell you're looking for, but aspects within these perfumes, and these perfumes won't be using neroli I think we ought to be forgetting about neroli itself or making naturalistic neroli bases or finding things to modify neroli.

    Petitgrain is inexpensive and could be used in the perfumes. Different versions are closer to neroli than others. I like the Robertet Bigaradier Heart as a component of neroli but by itself it's not as you describe.

    If I had to pick three candidate materials for you, on the basis that they can contribute towards a note that perfumer ad copy / pyramid writers can call neroli and are in common use, I'd say Nerolione (actually more orangeflower but floral, fresh, and very diffusive, quite modern-seeming), Corps Oranger or second choice, oranger crystals, and nerol. And if you want to move that towards natural, rather than just adding neroli-ish aspects to Bergamot, then Bigaradier Heart along with it.

    I think you are correct that there may additionally be not-neroli-at-all aromachemicals or naturals that are contributing to the aspects you like, e,g, items that are more mandarin orange, bitter orange, or blood orange, or those actual eo's to some degree as they are cheap enough. That could widen the scope a lot.

    I would buy all those eo's (this hobby requires buying quite a lot of things...) and play with them, and browse say Creatingperfume.com and see what strikes you that has claimed notes in the area. I cannot think of a single citrus aromachemical available there that I'd call useless, and you get four free samples with every order. Or you can try Perfumer Supply House, where you get 5 free samples per order, but I don't think there are as many citrus aromachemicals there.

    EDIT: I just went to Fragrantica and while I don't know exactly what "African Orange Flower" is -- I suppose it's a nice sounding name for Moroccan or Egyptian orangeflower absolute, which the perfume won't actually have -- and the text reads "bitter orange" rather than that and this one as the eo actually is possible as an ingredient, again undoubtedly low percentage of total if used. "African Orange Flower" was voted, by people I guess who really know what it is (???), as much more prominent than neroli. So perhaps we've been barking up the wrong tree entirely, as it seems you were starting to suspect.

    (And of course, I am not implying either that advertised notes or Fragrantica votes really proclaim the facts but sometimes they can suggest in a direction that can be less than 90 degrees wrong.)
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 27th October 2019 at 03:25 AM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    Well since it is not particularly neroli itself that has the smell you're looking for, but aspects within these perfumes, and these perfumes won't be using neroli I think we ought to be forgetting about neroli itself or making naturalistic neroli bases or finding things to modify neroli.

    Petitgrain is inexpensive and could be used in the perfumes. Different versions are closer to neroli than others. I like the Robertet Bigaradier Heart as a component of neroli but by itself it's not as you describe.

    If I had to pick three candidate materials for you, on the basis that they can contribute towards a note that perfumer ad copy / pyramid writers can call neroli and are in common use, I'd say Nerolione (actually more orangeflower but floral, fresh, and very diffusive, quite modern-seeming), oranger crystals, and nerol. And if you want to move that towards natural, rather than just adding neroli-ish aspects to Bergamot, then Bigaradier Heart along with it.

    I think you are correct that there may additionally be not-neroli-at-all aromachemicals or naturals that are contributing to the aspects you like, e,g, items that are more mandarin orange, bitter orange, or blood orange, or those actual eo's to some degree as they are cheap enough. That could widen the scope a lot.

    I would buy all those eo's (this hobby requires buying quite a lot of things...) and play with them, and browse say Creatingperfume.com and see what strikes you that has claimed notes in the area. I cannot think of a single citrus aromachemical available there that I'd call useless, and you get four free samples with every order. Or you can try Perfumer Supply House, where you get 5 free samples per order, but I don't think there are as many citrus aromachemicals there.

    EDIT: I just went to Fragrantica and while I don't know exactly what "African Orange Flower" is -- I suppose it's a nice sounding name for Moroccan or Egyptian orangeflower absolute, which the perfume won't actually have -- and the text reads "bitter orange" rather than that and this one as the eo actually is possible as an ingredient, again undoubtedly low percentage of total if used. "African Orange Flower" was voted, by people I guess who really know what it is (???), as much more prominent than neroli. So perhaps we've been barking up the wrong tree entirely, as it seems you were starting to suspect.

    (And of course, I am not implying either that advertised notes or Fragrantica votes really proclaim the facts but sometimes they can suggest in a direction that can be less than 90 degrees wrong.)
    This is the advice I was looking for. Thank you.
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  18. #18

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    You're very welcome! Good luck and have fun!

  19. #19

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Btw, while the below is likely not of help to the OP for reasons stated, some may find the below useful GC/MS info:

    First, the brief summary. For comparison with bergamot I have added its figures as well from a set of 18 GC/MS's. Bolded items are those more present in neroli than in bergamot single GC/MS. Information from single reports on lemon and sweet orange are added parenthetically as well. Not all items more present in neroli are necessarily important for the effect one gets from adding neroli to bergamot, nor is the list necessarily sufficient for that purpose.

    Compounds appearing in neroli but not detected or under 10% as much in bergamot, lemon, or sweet orange in the reports evaluated:

    Trans-beta-OCIMENE 4.5
    Alpha TERPINEOL 3
    Trans-NEROLIDOL 3.1
    CITRONELLOL 2.5
    GERANIOL 2.1
    FARNESOL 1.1
    NEROL 0.8
    METHYL ANTHRANILATE 0.26
    INDOLE 0.15
    cis-JASMONE 0.035
    METHYL JASMONATE 0.01


    Compounds more prevalent in neroli than in any of bergamot, lemon, and sweet orange:

    LINALOOL 34.6 vs 12 (0.1, 0.22)
    GERANYL ACETATE 2.9 vs 0.33 (0.32, n.d.)
    SABINENE 2.6 vs 1.0 (1.84, 0.43)
    NERYL ACETATE 1.5 vs 0.44 (0.05, n.d.)


    Compounds comparably present in at least one of bergamot, lemon, and sweet orange, so perhaps not important to contributing neroli effect to a citrus accord having these:

    Beta PINENE 10.3 vs 6.3 (13.1, 0.03)
    MYRCENE 2.0 vs 1.0 (1.6, 1.9)
    Alpha PINENE 1.0 vs 1.21 (1.81, 0.5)
    GERANIAL+NERAL 0.9 vs 0.42 (1.72, 0.08)

    Compounds present in neroli but markedly less so than in bergamot:

    LIMONENE 14.0 vs 41 (69, 95)
    LINALYL ACETATE 5 vs 26 (n.d., n.d.)

    In the case of both linalool and limonene it's quite important whether the D isomer, L isomer, or some mixture is used yet this information is hard or impossible to obtain for many eo's. For any not familiar with this, L-linalool is in the lilac/lavender direction while D-linalool is coriander-like, and D-limonene is orangey while L-limonene is refreshing and terpy without seeming orange.

    EDIT -- According to these sources, the limonene of neroli as well as bergamot is at least principally D-limonene: https://books.google.com/books?id=EA...ene%22&f=false , http://arunimaflavours.com/product/l_limonene_85 .

    The citronellol of neroli is reported to be racemic. The farnesol is principally E,E, but I don't know of our having a choice in the materials we can buy.

    Seeroos, thank you for posting your interesting thread. Revisiting this subject has me planning out my own work better I think. As my own interest is not so much reproducing neroli itself but expanding bergamot to seem to include goodly amounts of high quality neroli, I can now narrow my focus to the above bolded ingredients though substituting Indocolore for indole.
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 29th October 2019 at 07:10 PM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    I think I will probably add some linalool and L-Limonene as well to the mix. It's already starting to smell like neroli after letting it sit for a while, without even adding any of the ingredients suggested above. Right now it's a mix of the following:

    10 drops Hedione
    5 drops Bergamot Givco
    5 drops Calabrian bergamot oil
    3 drops neroli oil
    1 drop Lemonile (diluted)

    I am thinking of adding the following to it:

    *1 drop vanillin
    *Few drops L-Limonene
    *Few drops Linalool
    *Few drops bigaradier heart
    *Few drops oranger crystals
    *Few drops nerolione
    *Few drops petitgrain oil
    *Few drops lemon oil
    *Few drops blood orange oil
    *Few drops Yuzu oil
    *Few drops neroli oil (from another source)
    *Few drops orange blossom absolute
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  21. #21

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    As for the oud base (which I'm creating seperately and then adding to the neroli blend), here's what I have and it smells absolutely fantastic:

    14 drops Synth Oud 10760 E (Firmenich) [diluted]
    10 drops Laotian oud with rose attar [diluted]
    6 drops Swiss Arabian Indian Sandalwood attar [diluted]
    6 drops Vanillin (natural) 10% dilution
    2 drop Swiss Arabian Dehn al-Oud Cambodi attar [diluted]

    I intend to add the following:

    *Few drops ambrox DL (diluted)
    *1-2 drops tonka bean absolute
    *1-2 drops Bourbon Vanilla CO2
    *1-2 drops vanilla oil
    *[possibly] a little bit of Dorinia SA E (rose/musk accord)
    *[possibly] a little bit of Morrocan rose absolute
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  22. #22
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Dominican Republic
    Posts
    486

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Hi there, I am very familiar with Neroli Portofino from Tomo Ford, and its a completely synthetic base, with just few touches of naturals The ingredients you are using will not work, its a much lighter composition more like cologne, and truly imposible to replicate using naturals. I suggest you start in a different way, very to identify what the perfume resembles to you, and try to compose something for you that its light and pleasant.

    Perfumery takes years of learning,

  23. #23

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by caribbeanisland View Post
    Hi there, I am very familiar with Neroli Portofino from Tomo Ford, and its a completely synthetic base, with just few touches of naturals The ingredients you are using will not work, its a much lighter composition more like cologne, and truly imposible to replicate using naturals. I suggest you start in a different way, very to identify what the perfume resembles to you, and try to compose something for you that its light and pleasant.

    Perfumery takes years of learning,
    What synthetics are used in Neroli Portofino?
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud

  24. #24
    Basenotes Plus
    pkiler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    8,716

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by seeroos.syed View Post
    What synthetics are used in Neroli Portofino?
    Uhhhh, Is there some issue with sending your sample out for an analysis at Phytochemia Labs?
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  25. #25

    Default Re: How to make Neroli Portofino style accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Uhhhh, Is there some issue with sending your sample out for an analysis at Phytochemia Labs?
    I never thought of that, good idea
    Top 10:
    1. Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint
    2. FM Carnal Flower/TF Neroli Portofino Forte
    3. Le Labo Bergamote 22/Mancera Soleil d'Italie
    4. Dior Oud Ispahan/Mancera Aoud Line
    5. Bond No. 9 Eau de New York/Bleecker Street
    6. Amouage Beach Hut Man/AdG Essenza
    7. MFK Grand Soir/Oud Satin Mood/Aqua Celestia Forte
    8. TF Tobacco Vanille/Venetian Bergamot/Mandarino di Amalfi/Azure Lime/Vert Boheme/Italian Cypress/Oud Minerale
    9. Creed OV/RM/GIT/SMW
    10. AdP Essenza/Club/Oud




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