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Thread: Guerlain Derby

  1. #1
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    Default Guerlain Derby

    I had smelled the current version of Guerlain Derby in shops several times, and had worn it out of shops a couple times, but I never had a stash of my own until recently a sales associate made a decant for me.

    I'm a big fan. I think it's a well done update.

    I sometimes damn the updated versions of Chanel Pour Monsieur or Antaeus with faint praise, but I think the current version of Guerlain Derby is a more capable-smelling update (even if Pour Monsieur edt has also gotten better recently, and is less green than at its low point). I might back up my vintage Derby with a bottle of the current version. I still have my decant to work through, maybe another few wearings.

    I think it might have a faint frankincense note. The vintage is mossier and has a leather feel. The frankincense I think I'm smelling in the update is great, done well enough to rival the oak moss in the vintage.

    Ultimately, the vintage has better longevity, although the newer version can smell a little stronger through the mid.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I love all iterations of this scent.
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  3. #3

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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I smelled a tester a couple of years ago and found it very good too. Once in a while, a perfume that survived in a good state.

    The bottle is ugly, but it doesn't matter.

    cacio

  4. #4

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I'm not keen on the half-timbered DSquared type bottles with the re-issues but the fragrances are fab

  5. #5

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    The current version is excellent!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I never got a chance to test the original but the current version is superb, at least to me.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I managed to sample the newer version a few years ago in a shop in Monte Carlo (ooh, get me...!) and I was pleasantly surprised to find it smelled pretty much identical to my treasured original 'eagle' bottle.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by Democritus View Post
    I never got a chance to test the original but the current version is superb, at least to me.
    Likewise!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Was planning on picking this up at Neiman's, but they're currently out of stock.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Derby was one that I specifically remember ordering samples of both the current and vintage versions. I had every intention of buying a bottle, I just didn't know which one I preferred.

    When I have done this with other vintage fragrances, I almost always prefer the vintage formulation. But Derby was the rare exception.

    I opted to get the current version. It just smelled brighter and fresher to my nose....and more what I wanted to smell like. I was a little concerned that my sample might have just been a little bit musty, and that I might not have a fair representation of it. More likely, however, it was probably more the mossy/leathery aspects of the vintage that made me enjoy the newer better.

    But whatever....I've never regretted getting the newer version.
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  11. #11

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Thank you for sharing the impressions with us and yes, if the vintage of this would be over budget or unavailable for any other reason, would not have any problem with its current formulation-even more so thanks to the feedback about this latter one

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I have 3 versions and all are excellent. Better leather from oldest though, sharper / brighter citrus in the newest. I wouldn't hesitate picking the current version which i recently sampled (again) - it's been maintained well (which invariably means, the end might be near )
    Currently wearing: Cedrat Boise by Mancera

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    The vintage formulation is wonderful, the mossy leathery drydown being the best part. The current version I don't care for much, I don't consider it a worthy substitute for the vintage if un-obtainable.
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I don't know, I loved the 'eagle' version bottle but didn't enjoy the current version as I found it overloaded with some green notes (possibly galbanum) - a very similar accord that's present in the current version of Jules as well, and also lacking in moss. I swapped away my bottle; and, note that I'm not that picky about reformulations usually. Since so many agree that the current is very close, I shall try it again when I come across it.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I have the current, which is a new love for me. Having never smelled vintage, I don't feel like I have missed anything.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I've had all versions and I'm fully satisfied with the current one

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Smelled current version in Spanish department store (El Corte Inglés) this summer and liked it a lot.
    My Top '11' of main current rotation in no particular order:

    - Paco Rabanne: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Antaeus (vtg)
    - Azzaro: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - TF: Ombré Leather
    - Cartier: Santos edt (vtg)
    - Al Haramain: Excellent
    - SA: Shaghaf Oud Abyad
    - SA: Al Basel
    - D&G: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Mancera: Red Tobacco
    - Mancera: Aoud Vanille

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    I don't know, I loved the 'eagle' version bottle but didn't enjoy the current version as I found it overloaded with some green notes (possibly galbanum) - a very similar accord that's present in the current version of Jules as well, and also lacking in moss. I swapped away my bottle; and, note that I'm not that picky about reformulations usually. Since so many agree that the current is very close, I shall try it again when I come across it.
    I wonder if current is different from when you tried it.

    When I'm wearing one on each arm, I'm more drawn to the current version of Derby. I tend to be fussy about reformulations, but I like galbanum - I'm having great luck with non-original Jules and Derby.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I had smelled the current version of Guerlain Derby in shops several times, and had worn it out of shops a couple times, but I never had a stash of my own until recently a sales associate made a decant for me.

    I'm a big fan. I think it's a well done update.

    I sometimes damn the updated versions of Chanel Pour Monsieur or Antaeus with faint praise, but I think the current version of Guerlain Derby is a more capable-smelling update (even if Pour Monsieur edt has also gotten better recently, and is less green than at its low point). I might back up my vintage Derby with a bottle of the current version. I still have my decant to work through, maybe another few wearings.

    I think it might have a faint frankincense note. The vintage is mossier and has a leather feel. The frankincense I think I'm smelling in the update is great, done well enough to rival the oak moss in the vintage.

    Ultimately, the vintage has better longevity, although the newer version can smell a little stronger through the mid.
    Sold!

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by Derbyman View Post
    I managed to sample the newer version a few years ago in a shop in Monte Carlo (ooh, get me...!) and I was pleasantly surprised to find it smelled pretty much identical to my treasured original 'eagle' bottle.
    Wow, from Derbyman himself!

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post
    I have 3 versions and all are excellent. Better leather from oldest though, sharper / brighter citrus in the newest. I wouldn't hesitate picking the current version which i recently sampled (again) - it's been maintained well (which invariably means, the end might be near )
    Always great to hear from Badarun!

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Only sampled the vintage. Great fragrance.
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  22. #22

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    [QUOTE=Bavard;4739382]Wow, from Derbyman himself!

    Cheers Bavard! I'm no Derby expert by any stretch. I used the name as Derby was my 'holy grail' fragrance when I joined Basenotes and it took me AGES to finally track it down. Of course it was love at first sniff...!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I love the new version and wouldn’t hesitate to buy it.

    I think at this point, I’d pretty much say the same thing about all Guerlains. All the new versions I’ve smelled have been amazing, and many I prefer over the vintage.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I've not smelled the most current version, but it assume it is quite good. I have a bottle of the 1985 release year, and it is excellent.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Still divine. Buy it.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I had a bottle of vintage which smelled great (but its performance was poor due to how old it was).

    I smelled the new stuff and really didn't like it at all. It seemed much "flatter" and sort of boring in comparison to the vintage (less complex and nuanced, less character). But that was a while ago. This thread gives me some hope, as Derby is one that I've always wanted to own (if I could get a bottle that smelled at least pretty close to the original).

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    There's no way to sample Guerlain outside of Shalimar at Ulta where I am, so I've never been able to get my nose on this one. Any version is too expensive for blind buying, so it may need to remain a mystery. I'm typically not fond of buying decants either.
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  28. #28
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I own all the formulations in all kind of bottles.
    I like each and every one of them. They are all close but not exactly the same.
    I would choose the eagle bottle if i would have to decide only for one of them though.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by Monsieur Montana View Post
    I own all the formulations in all kind of bottles.
    I like each and every one of them. They are all close but not exactly the same.
    I would choose the eagle bottle if i would have to decide only for one of them though.
    A true Derby connoisseur!
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  30. #30
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I have a decant of modern formulation Derby... and I love it... but not for the current pricing.
    Oriental and rose addict...
    Currently wearing: Cedrat Boise by Mancera




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