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  1. #1

    Default I wanna be mushroom. And may be something bigger...

    Hello! Since childhood, I "tried" to "make" "perfumes", but these were just games, and all sorts of life troubles for a long time closed all my hobbies for me. BUT! I recently preoccupied with the fact that I want to smell like a dried mushroom (mostly), a little more like mowed grass, a little like the mountains around which I grew (wormwood and thyme) + a little femininity in all of this.
    So I decided to try to make perfume (cause I like this kind of stuff) (and made a solid one once).
    So I listed at libertynatural some oils and absolutes:

    porchino musroom
    oakmoss
    myrhh
    hay (foin coupe)

    ginger lily
    kaempferia galangal
    black pepper

    common wormwood
    spike thyme

    So I want to make some aromas of this so I want to ask how should I calculate how much of each oil to add, and which of these are “base”, “top” and “middle”? (Of course, I don’t want to pour everything at once and I understand that I need to experiment with combinations when they are already in my hands).
    But, can you think of something else to enhance the “mushroom” and “freshly cut” effect?

    P.S. as I understand I shood take my oil and mix it with perfume alcohol: 25% oil and the rest is alcohol. And I do it with every oil and only then I mix it one with another?

  2. #2

    Default Re: I wanna be mushroom. And may be something bigger...

    Greetings Vonyavka,

    to enhance the mushroom-like quality you can try 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom alcohol), 1-octen-3-one and ethyl amyl ketone. A little earthy pyrazine, 2-ethyl fenchol (Terrasol) and Terranol can be added to further enhance the damp, earthy qualities. If you wish to enhance the dampness still further then you can add a little geosmin. Most of these materials are best used in high dilution.

    For the "freshly cut" effect you can add some cis-3-hexanol (leaf alcohol). If you wish to extend some of the effect then you can add a little cis-3-hexenyl benzoate.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vonyavka View Post
    P.S. as I understand I shood take my oil and mix it with perfume alcohol: 25% oil and the rest is alcohol. And I do it with every oil and only then I mix it one with another?
    Not all of your materials will need to be diluted before blending, it depends on their strength (odour potency) and viscosity. Some prefer to work with dilutions of everything though, it's up to you.
    Last edited by Pears; 16th October 2019 at 08:06 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: I wanna be mushroom. And may be something bigger...

    Quote Originally Posted by Pears View Post
    Greetings Vonyavka,

    to enhance the mushroom you can try 1-octen-3-ol, 1-octen-3-one and ethyl amyl ketone. A little earthy pyrazine and terranol can be added to further enhance the damp, earthy qualities. For the "freshly cut" effect you can add some cis-3-hexanol. If you wish to further enhance the dampness then you can add a little geosmin. Most of these materials are best used at high dilution.



    Not all of your materials will need to be diluted before blending, it depends on their strength (odour potency) and viscosity. Some prefer to work with dilutions of everything though, it's up to you.
    Oh thank you for answering! I ended up with some mushroom abs, oakwood abs, foin montagne abs, terranol and terrasol (?) and cis-3-hexanol. This is all that I could find in my country. May be 1-octen-3-ol will be avialable cause it was once. How do you think is it possible to make this smell like "mushroom perfume"? Or may be foin montagne is excess?

  4. #4
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    Default Re: I wanna be mushroom. And may be something bigger...

    Pears of course has good advice,... but I think you are asking mostly about learning through these naturals that you listed.
    There's no problem learning with naturals, likely, we all did, because the natural world is what we know, and we start with what we know.

    Off hand. these are the ones from your list that you should predilute:
    porchino musroom
    oakmoss
    hay (foin coupe)
    kaempferia galangal
    I'd say to dilute Oakmoss and hay to 5 or 10%
    Galangal and mushroom, might be OK higher, you could start at 20%, and see if they are too strong, if so, take down to 10%.

    The others might be fine, used undiluted, to blend with dilutions you make of this list.

    But, Off hand, most of these materials are pretty strong.
    And you need some middle notes that are weaker for these to sit in with and blend together with. Almost as if you are using these quiet notes to dilute the strong notes.
    Maybe some woods, like Cedar Atlas, or Cedar Virginia. or something in this vein.


    You will likely only use small percentages of these, like 0.5% to 1.5%
    black pepper
    common wormwood
    spike thyme

    And your basenotes of Oakmoss hay and mushroom, need other materials to make up a harmonious base section.
    Maybe some vetiver.

    You can play with that first, before you graduate and work on inclusion of single molecules for other purposes.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  5. #5

    Default Re: I wanna be mushroom. And may be something bigger...

    Thanks a lot for answering!!!
    I can found not everything in my country But that is what I found:
    mushroom abs
    oakmoss abs
    pachouli abs
    methyl-2-furoate
    2-heptanone
    cis-3-hexanol
    terranol
    terrasol
    mushroom alcohol

    I decided to focus on "mushroom" and "leafy" smell and don't get deep into "evergreen" and "minty" smell.... What advices can you give me with this? Thank you a lot again <3

  6. #6

    Default Re: I wanna be mushroom. And may be something bigger...

    P.S. Well, The Seller found 10ml of oct-1-en-3-one for me

  7. #7

    Default Re: I wanna be mushroom. And may be something bigger...

    Indeed, I did get the impression that you might be interested in trying synthetics. You probably have enough on the list there to make a reasonable accord.

    I would suggest that you use the 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom alcohol) sparingly, as there is some evidence that it can cause parkinsonism in Drosophila melanogaster (common fruit fly). It has also been shown to inhibit uptake of dopamine in human cell lines:

    Parkinson disease (PD) is the most common movement disorder and, although the exact causes are unknown, recent epidemiological and experimental studies indicate that several environmental agents may be significant risk factors. To date, these suspected environmental risk factors have been man-made chemicals. In this report, we demonstrate via genetic, biochemical, and immunological studies that the common volatile fungal semiochemical 1-octen-3-ol reduces dopamine levels and causes dopamine neuron degeneration in Drosophila melanogaster. Overexpression of the vesicular monoamine transporter (VMAT) rescued the dopamine toxicity and neurodegeneration, whereas mutations decreasing VMAT and tyrosine hydroxylase exacerbated toxicity. Furthermore, 1-octen-3-ol also inhibited uptake of dopamine in human cell lines expressing the human plasma membrane dopamine transporter (DAT) and human VMAT ortholog, VMAT2. These data demonstrate that 1-octen-3-ol exerts toxicity via disruption of dopamine homeostasis and may represent a naturally occurring environmental agent involved in parkinsonism.
    https://www.pnas.org/content/110/48/19561


    These results do not prove that it causes parkinsonism in humans, of course. However, if you wish to play it safe then I will try to provide some figures for you.

    The concentration used in the study was 0.5 ppm in air (about 2.6 mg/m3). For fragrances intended for skin use, you would usually look at the subchronic oral toxicities. The highest no-effect level (HNEL) in one study on rats (1969) was 14.55 mg/kg bw/day. For use on humans, you would normally divide the HNEL (or NOAEL) by a factor of 100 but the study is old and may not have included tests pertaining to any dopamine related issues, so you may wish to include an additional safety factor of 10 (1000 in total). That equates to 0.01455 mg/kg bw/day, or 0.873 mg/day for a 60 kg person. For a 3 g/day dose of fragrance that equates to a 0.029% concentration of 1-octen-3-ol. If after testing you feel that that's not quite enough then you can consider using a factor as low as 100 (a concentration up to ten times higher). 1-octen-3-ol has a very strong odour so that would be more than enough.
    Last edited by Pears; 27th October 2019 at 05:24 AM.




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