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  1. #1
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    mattmorris's Avatar
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    Default dry milk + suede?

    Hi all,

    Iím working on a fragrance that passes over territory that has frustrated me in the past. My goal is that the prominent effect is one that conjures a dry, powdered milk, or scalded, steamed milk. From there, Iím working it to settle into a soft, light suede. Experimenting with very subtle notes of ambrette, apricot, mimosa, and a little heliotrope.

    Iíve reviewed a great deal of the DIY threads and gathered a lot of information for getting to these light leather/skin/floral, but I can honestly admit the milk qualities are not going well. I could definitely use input.

    The milk/lactone materials Iíve been trying to build in various proportions and levels of dilution are mainly methyl laitone, gamma octalactone, bicyclononalactone, and butyl butyro lactate. Iíve found lactojasmone to skew too floral for this blend. Generally, these blends have far too much coconut and get fatty, almost cheesy.

    I donít want this to be overly sweet, so Iíve been avoiding more vanilla leaning materials. Philosophyís Fresh Cream contains something/s that get very close to the powdered milk effect I want, but itís swimming in much more powerful sugary sweetness.

    Iíve also been shifting amounts of apritone, gamma-undecalactone, coumarin, ethyls vanillin and maltol (in extremely small amounts), and a few sandalwood synthetics that skew creamier to my nose (like dartanol) at trace proportions to see if it adjusts the overall effect.


    Advice?
    A maybe fun question is whether anyone thinks there are materials that could contribute to both the milky and suede aspects Iím pursuing.


    All ideas welcome!

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    pkiler's Avatar
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    Default Re: dry milk + suede?

    Milk is really about 5-6-decenoic acid.
    But you can get close by diluting Butter CO2.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  3. #3

    Default Re: dry milk + suede?

    Hmm, Daim blonds of Serge Lutens?
    Heliotropine is good choice. and for Suede, Ionones and Woody-amber compounds like Vertofix? and Musks... sweet musks like Ethylene brassylate and Exaltolide...
    of course, some Sandalwood chemicals and Natural oil helps.
    Last edited by MezNez; 22nd October 2019 at 01:05 PM.

  4. #4
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    mattmorris's Avatar
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    Default Re: dry milk + suede?

    Thank you Paul and MezNez. Great advice both.
    Good Scents indicates 5-6-decenoic acid is synonymous with what a number of suppliers call Milk Lactone. Am I seeing that correctly?

    Exaltolide is wonderful although I tend not to reach for it much, since even diluted it seems to harden in the bottle and require gentle heating to make it usable. A good reminder to give it more of a chance.

    Will keep watching for more input as it comes. Many thanks meanwhile~~~~

  5. #5
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    pkiler's Avatar
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    Default Re: dry milk + suede?

    Quote Originally Posted by mattmorris View Post
    Good Scents indicates 5-6-decenoic acid is synonymous with what a number of suppliers call Milk Lactone. Am I seeing that correctly?
    Yes.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.




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