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  1. #271
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Edit: I'll give it a middle thumb, bordering on down. Just not my thing at all.
    Better than a middle finger, I suppose.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I’m curious about the fixatives and synthetic layers mentioned by Bavard and LiveJazz and wonder what they might be.
    My analogy is with the Polo logo on the otherwise divine shirts. Ralph Lauren made a really solid effort, and added a sort of logo, a signature chemical smell, partly for projection, etc., but more as a signature smell, a chemical they like. It's barely there. I wore one of those Polo shirts for a few years. It was a burnt orange dressy almost chamois-type material. I couldn't resist.

    Vintage Safari is light years ahead of the stuff Ralph Lauren sells at Bergdorf Goodman - some kind of niche line, that is not an inspired effort based on my sampling to date.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Ralph Lauren Lauren is the kind of thing I think I would like in theory. It's another fragrance that smells ambitious, and out there, bringing Armani to mind. But I like Armani, and I don't really like this. I almost like it. I like smelling it up close. In the air, it's coming across as screechy - trying too hard, way too hard - almost like an Abercrombie and Fitch store in the mall - not subtle.

    I like the Ralph Lauren stuff to an extent. It smells well executed and glamorous, but it also smells too much like perfume trying to get noticed.

  4. #274

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Lauren edc '84. Bavard and I seem to be on a similar sniffing and posting schedule!

    Great opening - a tart and energetic fruit - the listed pineapple? And a unique herbal accord, spearmint (which I detect very clearly with a tea-like rich green) and must be the listed tarragon. All this against a dark, jammy floral backdrop. Light and dark at once, a refreshing and bright layer under a heavy velvet cloak.

    Increasing green florals...big green violets and bigger watery muguet is what I notice most. I typically can't tolerate muguet, but this is cool take on it...a swampy, dark muguet, in a good way. It's a large floral ensemble, baroque, thick and serious. A green floral accord, but not in a woody/mossy way...reminds me of a dark, overgrown pond with flowers, sort of brooding. The color palette at this point is dark green and pewter with swirls of pastel green and white fog.

    A slight spice and a pleasant rubbery soapy accord evolves later, along with moss and wood notes, and it retains that dark, almost spooky dark-watery-floral backdrop. Deeper in the base, what I'm sensing as the "rubbery" tone increases pretty dramatically, becoming somewhat overbearing, but I'm still sniffing intently.

    Really strange, interesting, distinctive scent, and fun to sample. I do wish that rubber tone, which is a large part of what makes this stuff so surprising, was toned down just a little in the later stages, and combined with a more structured cyphre accord.

    Thumb up, with very slight reservations re: the rubber, and no middle fingers.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  5. #275
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Lauren is up next in line? I could go on about that one at nauseating length, because when it came out in 1978 was a turning point for me -- but I'll refrain for now. I am glad to see, though, that your sample is an EDC, which is the only concentration (besides parfum), that the original formula came in. As soon as the EDT came out (and showed Cosmair distribution on the label), the formula was ruined.

    I will, however, trot out my favorite perfume ephemera.


    fragLaurenRalphLaurenPriceCard1980s_1front.jpgfragLaurenRalphLaurenPriceCard1980s_2back.jpg

    This is an enclosure card that came with department store credit card bills in the 1980s. It's blurry because mine is still in its original paper sleeve. As a penniless college student, I agonized for days about spending $27.50 to get the big box of talc so I could have the bath products set.

    I'd almost give a limb to have that entire original set now.

  6. #276

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Cook.bot - That is a lovely set that is pictured on your card. Lauren was a turning point for me too. I had written earlier about this stuff. I had a big 4oz cologne with the “cologne” on the front, and wore it all the time, then over the years and moves lost track of the bottle - a gift from my now husband of many years when we were on the verge of our yuppies phase. Been through some ghastly bottle purchases and poorly preserved stuff and now have this nice bottle of EDC that smells like I (and my husband) remembers, and an EDT behind it that isn’t as nice but isn’t awful.

    The contrast in style of the Safari and Lauren bottles is striking. Not a very good pic though.

    C049AD30-1D9C-4AC7-8757-9E97835F47D2.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Lauren edc '84. Bavard and I seem to be on a similar sniffing and posting schedule!

    Great opening - a tart and energetic fruit - the listed pineapple? And a unique herbal accord, spearmint (which I detect very clearly with a tea-like rich green) and must be the listed tarragon. All this against a dark, jammy floral backdrop. Light and dark at once, a refreshing and bright layer under a heavy velvet cloak.

    Increasing green florals...big green violets and bigger watery muguet is what I notice most. I typically can't tolerate muguet, but this is cool take on it...a swampy, dark muguet, in a good way. It's a large floral ensemble, baroque, thick and serious. A green floral accord, but not in a woody/mossy way...reminds me of a dark, overgrown pond with flowers, sort of brooding. The color palette at this point is dark green and pewter with swirls of pastel green and white fog.

    A slight spice and a pleasant rubbery soapy accord evolves later, along with moss and wood notes, and it retains that dark, almost spooky dark-watery-floral backdrop. Deeper in the base, what I'm sensing as the "rubbery" tone increases pretty dramatically, becoming somewhat overbearing, but I'm still sniffing intently.

    Really strange, interesting, distinctive scent, and fun to sample. I do wish that rubber tone, which is a large part of what makes this stuff so surprising, was toned down just a little in the later stages, and combined with a more structured cyphre accord.

    Thumb up, with very slight reservations re: the rubber, and no middle fingers.
    LiveJazz I think we are mostly in smelling synch here.

    I think this is a pretty easy wearing cologne, bright and refreshing up top. There is a stemmy greenness that I like This doesn’t feel dated to me or super feminine or flirty. There is no old makeup or powder - just a nice green, herbal, floral (humid as you note). What I experience as a neutral vegetal note (not sweet, or floral, or woody, or fresh green) invokes giant dark green plants. The dark plants are mixed with the moss and woods that are fairly dry and a little spicy at the end. There is a counter play between the dry and humid notes.

    Your description of a dark, overgrown pond holds true for me.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  7. #277
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    My impressions of Lauren were an outlier, it seems. I struggled with it. Given the other comments, I'll likely try it again at some point.

    Today we're sampling D'Orsay Voulez Vous parfum.

    D'Orsay is the name of a great art museum in Paris.

    This is a lovely perfume. It's almost like a perfume base. I think I might be smelling musk and civet. I think there's real, incensey sandalwood.

    This is similar to a Coty (L'Origan) or Guerlain (L'Heure Bleue), or even some of the Godet's from the Mixerscent pass. This version is just right.

    The name asks, "Do you want," and I do want. I want perfumes to be this relaxed. I want the animalics to be this rounded.

    There could be a series of soliflores using this base. A nice, red rose on top of this could hit the spot.
    Last edited by Bavard; 23rd November 2019 at 08:52 PM.

  8. #278

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Here is a pic of our cute sample bottle-
    134CB7EC-213F-4438-82DE-3E29F320D3DF.jpg

    Voulez Vous is a stockings with seams up the back and pearls kind of perfume. It reminds me of D’Albret’s Ecusson in the heart and general tone. There’s a little twangy spice at the start that stays and gently accents the floral heart, which has a varnished quality - it doesn’t really smell like varnish, maybe I am imagining some hairspray, but by varnish I mean the florals are macerated and deep but not muddy. The base is vey nice and natural smelling to me, with just a touch of powder, and an animalic blend (rounded as Bavard says) with a musk/amber combo that is slightly sweet and transparent. It respects my skin and incorporates the natural smell rather than overtaking it. The end of the base presents an effect of clean damp skin, and warm breath on the application point brings up traces of the top and heart - maybe clary sage, carnation and other cool/spiced tones.

    I’m a big fan of this style of perfume, and while this definitely smells vintage, I think of these kinds of scents as having a timeless quality.
    Bavard, you talked about this being like a perfume base - like what is there is good, but it needs a little something.
    I enjoy this fragrance as it is, but could see it functioning as sort of a “vintage X” block.

    I haven’t done enough head to head testing of the many similar vintage fragrances of this style to determine which would be my one and only if I had to choose.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  9. #279

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Voulez Vous is a stockings with seams up the back and pearls kind of perfume. It reminds me of D’Albret’s Ecusson in the heart and general tone. There’s a little twangy spice at the start that stays and gently accents the floral heart, which has a varnished quality - it doesn’t really smell like varnish, maybe I am imagining some hairspray, but by varnish I mean the florals are macerated and deep but not muddy. The base is vey nice and natural smelling to me, with just a touch of powder, and an animalic blend (rounded as Bavard says) with a musk/amber combo that is slightly sweet and transparent. It respects my skin and incorporates the natural smell rather than overtaking it. The end of the base presents an effect of clean damp skin, and warm breath on the application point brings up traces of the top and heart - maybe clary sage, carnation and other cool/spiced tones.

    I’m a big fan of this style of perfume, and while this definitely smells vintage, I think of these kinds of scents as having a timeless quality.
    Bavard, you talked about this being like a perfume base - like what is there is good, but it needs a little something.
    I enjoy this fragrance as it is, but could see it functioning as sort of a “vintage X” block.

    I haven’t done enough head to head testing of the many similar vintage fragrances of this style to determine which would be my one and only if I had to choose.
    Great notes; I don't have much to add.

    A reference that came to mind for me was Guerlain Vol de Nuit parfum. I put some on the other wrist. It seems a little greener and smoother on top while the D'Orsay starts with more of a spiced floral bang...and then it goes a little more dry and cyphrey, where the D'Orsay becomes more round and sweet. So maybe not the the most directly comparison, but I do think they are rather similar in their smoothly blended amber-animalic bases and general "timeless" feel as Earlyn astutely puts it.

    Nice observation on the wrist-breath method here. This is exactly the kind of perfume that works best on, for whatever reason.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  10. #280
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Sadly, Voulez-Vous is not amongst my recently acquired d’Orsays. But, fascinating reading!
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    The Voulez-Vous presentation is gorgeous.

    You have an epic collection, Earlyn.

  12. #282

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    The Voulez-Vous presentation is gorgeous.

    You have an epic collection, Earlyn.


    Here’s a pic of our sample bottle for the Balalaika parfum (which came paired with Tailspin), and next to it is a cologne I just received. It came in a set of four Lelong fragrances - Balalaika, Tailspin, Indiscret, Sirocco. The ribbons and caps show some age, but the bottles had plugs with just a little evap. so the juice looks to be in very good shape. Haven’t done more than a bottle sniff on the cologne.

    41289812-FCB4-4333-904C-5278489CA30A.jpg
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  13. #283

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I'm live sampling Balalaika. I've had just a little prior taste of this around the time when we were early in this thread. I had mentioned I chose to send this instead of the Tailspin because of the green top in this.

    This morning when I first put Balalaika parfum on I was surprised that after the almost crunchy green start it almost disappeared on my skin. I was wearing it on the back of my hand and had just done a sink of dishes in hot soapy water so I though maybe my skin was eating it up. After moisturizing I reapplied and still it seemed to very subtle after the nice green top. Weird - you'd think the top would go first. I popped open the cologne and put that on the other hand to try to get a idea about the basis of this fragrance.

    The cologne has nice strength, a similar slightly bitter green top, and then prominent pearlescent, fleshy white flower. My nose can get confused between jasmine/gardenia when it is balanced between sweet and indolic like this one is. It smells like a real flower is laying right there on my hand. Checking published notes says gardenia, and I can believe it.

    The parfum is blooming now and I'm smelling a subdued white floral (more damp than the cologne) along with a rubber ducky note. This smells darker than the cologne and more complex. Projection and sillage are minimal on me. It is happening again - I'm getting the anise that I experienced a couple weeks ago and a very slight powder as it goes into the base. Last wearing the anise note became quite pronounced over time - projected more, becoming the dominant note. The published notes I could find this morning mention anise, but I've been smelling something similar in fragrances that others are noting as having civet. Civet is not listed for Balalaika, although I don't know if pyramid is for cologne or parfum. I wonder if civet ever smell like anise, licorice, or fresh fennel bulb, and if not what else it might be I am smelling.

    I'd advise a good neutral skin oil prior to application of the parfum and to apply plenty. I'm getting some nice but understated depth that wasn't apparent on my oil stripped skin with the first application of the parfum.

    I am intrigued enough by this parfum and like enough that I'll probably keep looking for another small bottle so I can continue to experience it and figure it out. I should probably send out some of the cologne - such a pretty flower. I think the ultimate answer here is to wear them together to amplify the best of both. I think that was a common approach with the multiple concentrations of vintage fragrances - cologne for the initial blast and fresher notes, and parfum for underlying depth and base fortification.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  14. #284

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Sadly, Voulez-Vous is not amongst my recently acquired d’Orsays. But, fascinating reading!
    Perhaps we could enlighten one another with some samples?
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  15. #285

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I’m sampling Organza at the moment (Earlyn, you did send it and I’d misplaced it!). Short version is I’m not very impressed. It’s pleasant enough with a spiced stewed fruit accord and something like a typical holiday potpourri. The problem is it feels foundationless, like something that could have come from a room spray, or a holiday themed fabric softener, perhaps. White musk. Benign florals. The base is an extension of the top, which technically is an impressive feat, I suppose, but I crave more.

    Seems like this is trying to channel Rochas Femme, which handles the warm stewed fruit oriental theme with more gravitas, and structure.

    Balalaika later!
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  16. #286
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Perhaps we could enlighten one another with some samples?
    Absolutely. I'm backed up on some sample-swapping to which i've already committed, but I'm definitely down with a d'Orsay exchange, though I'll have to be very sparing with Trophée.
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  17. #287
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Balalaika. Ba LaLa Ika. By Lucien Lelong.

    I was thinking it smelled like a baby, then I was told I smelled like a [clean] baby diaper.

    When it evolves in just a couple minutes, it becomes a fair bit similar to Chanel Beige.

    This is another winner. Any doubts from the opening are gone by the base. This further underlines the gravitas of Earlyn's vintage collection. Imagine a vintage, parfum version of Beige.
    Last edited by Bavard; 25th November 2019 at 01:43 AM.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I'm live sampling Balalaika. I've had just a little prior taste of this around the time when we were early in this thread. I had mentioned I chose to send this instead of the Tailspin because of the green top in this.

    This morning when I first put Balalaika parfum on I was surprised that after the almost crunchy green start it almost disappeared on my skin. I was wearing it on the back of my hand and had just done a sink of dishes in hot soapy water so I though maybe my skin was eating it up. After moisturizing I reapplied and still it seemed to very subtle after the nice green top. Weird - you'd think the top would go first. I popped open the cologne and put that on the other hand to try to get a idea about the basis of this fragrance.

    The cologne has nice strength, a similar slightly bitter green top, and then prominent pearlescent, fleshy white flower. My nose can get confused between jasmine/gardenia when it is balanced between sweet and indolic like this one is. It smells like a real flower is laying right there on my hand. Checking published notes says gardenia, and I can believe it.
    One of the 1920s Chanel's that I had never purchased in a full bottle is Gardenia. I have samples of the edt and edp versions of Gardenia from Les Exclusifs, but I still haven't smelled the vintage. Something about this part of Earlyn's post, and wearing today's sample, makes me want to try vintage Chanel Gardenia. There are a bunch the old 35 ml (1.2 ounce) bottles around for decent prices.

    It's almost a leathery flower.

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    The parfum is blooming now and I'm smelling a subdued white floral (more damp than the cologne) along with a rubber ducky note. This smells darker than the cologne and more complex. Projection and sillage are minimal on me. It is happening again - I'm getting the anise that I experienced a couple weeks ago and a very slight powder as it goes into the base. Last wearing the anise note became quite pronounced over time - projected more, becoming the dominant note. The published notes I could find this morning mention anise, but I've been smelling something similar in fragrances that others are noting as having civet. Civet is not listed for Balalaika, although I don't know if pyramid is for cologne or parfum. I wonder if civet ever smell like anise, licorice, or fresh fennel bulb, and if not what else it might be I am smelling.

    I'd advise a good neutral skin oil prior to application of the parfum and to apply plenty. I'm getting some nice but understated depth that wasn't apparent on my oil stripped skin with the first application of the parfum.

    I am intrigued enough by this parfum and like enough that I'll probably keep looking for another small bottle so I can continue to experience it and figure it out. I should probably send out some of the cologne - such a pretty flower. I think the ultimate answer here is to wear them together to amplify the best of both. I think that was a common approach with the multiple concentrations of vintage fragrances - cologne for the initial blast and fresher notes, and parfum for underlying depth and base fortification.
    I had no expectations for performance. On me, the parfum sample performed fine. It evolved slowly, over about six hours. I'm wearing it for a second time.

    I don't love the opening, but within a couple minutes, it's an unfolding story, and always nice.

  19. #289
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Today we’re irresistible in Versace L’Homme.

    80233162-F124-4DCE-8255-52995431B40E.jpg

    This is good enough to be a daily fragrance. It’s plenty complex for me, two or three perfumes in one - a citrus, a patchouli, a vanilla. Suave.

  20. #290

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    60070246-E5DF-42BD-B1FE-47BD894638AD.jpeg

    Wearing from the larger splash. To me this is a brighter, crisper, spicer, and more laid back take on the gentlemanly masculine woody oriental theme we discussed earlier. Thus, more versatile. Great stuff. Like Bavard said earlier, nice use of vanilla, subtle and dry and set against a stout foundation. There’s a zesty element that can’t find the right word for. It lingers throughout and really sets this blend apart.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 26th November 2019 at 03:27 AM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
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  21. #291
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    There’s a zesty element that can’t find the right word for. It lingers throughout and really sets this blend apart.
    I think that might be the citrus. Rather than being a lemony blast at the open that disappears when the heart notes emerge, it starts and remains well integrated into the whole scent profile.

    I’m very much enjoying this at the start of the evening. I’ll say more tomorrow about how it progressed (and whether it went well with Thai food).
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Zesty is the right word for it. A delicious, zesty, patchouli heart.

  23. #293

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Versace l’Homme

    First off, thumbs up for me. Did a couple wearings today to try to figure out some smells.
    We’ve sampled a lot of good masculine fragrances on this thread and Versace l’Homme reminds me of different parts of some others I’ve liked. Having sampled so many new ones and not having committed them to olfactory memory yet it is hard to compare, but I think I might like this one even a little more than some of the others I previously pointed my thumb up for.

    The lemon at the start is nice and bright, but there is also some sweet grass - like the kind you chew on. I think it is going to get incense-y but it kind of holds there and doesn’t quite go that way. I have some very light colored frankincense pieces that I like to burn sometimes and the resin sends up a rather light white veil that isn’t heavy or smoky, but clean, spicy/sappy that is similar to what I get in V l’H. The patchouli smells brassy, herby and floral to me, not dark. The base is mossy, tannic, and leaning towards sweaty skin, and a slight sweetness like someone’s breath that has just eaten a spoonful of dulce de leche.

    I wouldn’t call this understated, but it seems smooth and well balanced with just enough of everything and not a smidge more.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Versace l’Homme

    First off, thumbs up for me. Did a couple wearings today to try to figure out some smells.
    We’ve sampled a lot of good masculine fragrances on this thread and Versace l’Homme reminds me of different parts of some others I’ve liked. Having sampled so many new ones and not having committed them to olfactory memory yet it is hard to compare, but I think I might like this one even a little more than some of the others I previously pointed my thumb up for.

    The lemon at the start is nice and bright, but there is also some sweet grass - like the kind you chew on. I think it is going to get incense-y but it kind of holds there and doesn’t quite go that way. I have some very light colored frankincense pieces that I like to burn sometimes and the resin sends up a rather light white veil that isn’t heavy or smoky, but clean, spicy/sappy that is similar to what I get in V l’H. The patchouli smells brassy, herby and floral to me, not dark. The base is mossy, tannic, and leaning towards sweaty skin, and a slight sweetness like someone’s breath that has just eaten a spoonful of dulce de leche.

    I wouldn’t call this understated, but it seems smooth and well balanced with just enough of everything and not a smidge more.
    That was the last sample from my bag of goodies. I'm heartened that you took to most of them.

    Today is going to turn into a travel day. I might try to squeeze in the final two before I leave.

    I like the part in bold - it captures something about the intensity or complexity of Versace L'Homme.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Nicole Miller parfum - I think I liked the name of this, so simple, so I asked Earlyn for a sample. Whenever I would suggest something of hers to sample, she would suggest two more on top of that - a big spirit for sharing the joys of perfume.

    Nicole Miller parfum is tasty. Modern and tasty. That's unusual. I'm not sure what makes me think it smells modern, because it's mostly flowers. I think there are some modern musks in here, but used lightly and politely.

    It's a simple fragrance. It's good to err on that side. That's the kind of thing that doesn't wear out its welcome. I like this. It will be no problem to try something on my opposite arm later this morning.

    I'm no good at picking out flowers, but I think a flower lover would like this one. I don't think people who are afraid of white flowers need fear here, even if there are some in the mix. On a woman, this would go well with an off-the-shoulder dress.

    There's some fruit in this. I really like it. I'm feeling some kind of connection to the Histoires de Parfums style of fruit and white musk, say 1969, Parfum de Revolt.
    Last edited by Bavard; 26th November 2019 at 02:48 PM.

  26. #296
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    D'Orsay Voulez Vous

    I am able to join in the synch again, since I have a sample of Earlyn’s Voulez Vouz parfum. As I told Earlyn when I received it, I thought it was just fab. Put thoughts Labelle and Abba out of your mind, this Voulez Vous is definitely from the Mad Men era.

    IMG_3339.jpg

    Most sources say it was released in 1965, but a few ads & sources point to an earlier date of 1960. I would say the makeup, manicure, and hairstyle in the cool ad above suggest 1960 to me more than 1965. Meanwhile, a Cafleurebon post on VV refers to an even earlier version from the 1930’s, of which I have found no trace. Not sure it ever really existed.

    To me, VV’s opening moments are somewhat green with galbanum and light floral feeling. No vivid citrus notes, so VV feels plush from the start rather than bracing like an OG chypre (and this is the most obvious difference between VV and Vol de Nuit although Live Jazz sniffed out some similarities). VV’s heart brings out more of the floral notes--sweet flowers, lightly spicy carnation, and a good dose of creamy orris. Many identify hyacinth in VV, and I find hyacinth to be a somewhat cloying flower both in nature and bouquets, but perhaps it is here, bringing on the floral sweetness. Voulez Vous becomes ambered in the drydown but not syrupy with a deep nitromusky warmth and gorgeous sandalwood.

    Bavard wrote about VV serving as a perfume base. I think this makes sense because it is so seamlessly blended without any note jumping out. I find this kind of velvety vintage composition so mesmerizing and subtle when compared to modern offerings which often overstate keynotes.

    Here’s an interesting comparison for Voulez Vous: vintage Miss Dior parfum from the same era. I wore them side by side and while I knew they were similar, I was surprised at how much they resembled each other. Voulez Vous is slightly more sweetly floral than Miss Dior; Miss Dior opens a little more green. If you can, try them side by side and let us know what you think.

  27. #297

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Oops- I see I’ve listed this Nicole Miller as parfum, when it is in fact an EDP. (I’m thinking that a parfum might be a bit much)
    I first tried this fragrance early in my collecting when I bought some minis from a perfume collector and they generously tossed in many what I later found out to be excellent partial bottles of notable fragrances. I liked this one enough to look around for more and really couldn’t find vintage except for minis. There seems to be a little fandom for the vintage, but not so much for the current version.

    9239C864-165A-45CA-B46D-A29624842A48.jpg

    I think the juice color gives an idea about what the tone of this is. I find it to be fairly rich with fruit and flowers. Dried apricot and orange peel, ambered honey, white florals - kind of an occasion perfume but still good for general wear. The flowers I smell are towards the tuberose and jasmine side and not roses. It sounds very sweet but I don’t find it overly so - the flowers are young, slightly indolic and the fruit isn’t over-ripe, but even so there is kind of a “preserved quality”. It has a little of that nice tinted cellophane layer I like in sweet florals. I’m just now in the heart and it has been going on for a while without turning to powder or musk - will update about dry down.

    Nicole Miller was big in the early 1990s for her punchy modern collage motifs (that eventually showed up on everything), generally done against black. I can think of this perfume as a modern collage of fruits and flowers set against a deeper background. Below is an image of the back of a Nicole Miller silk robe.

    5A27F03E-1AEC-4B04-864F-C2F3B1E6C469.jpg
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  28. #298

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    This Nicole Miller is just massive. A gigantic, plump fruity floriental. I get mostly jasmine and ylang at the start, extremely plush and opaque, against a concentrated ripe peach and something like orange marmalade. A cooler layer of tuberose after awhile. This is take-no-prisoners, wall-of-scent, gluttonous, attention-grabbing confidence in a bottle, and not for the faint of heart. It's sweet to me, but not "sweetened" - meaning thick jasmine and peach is just inherently saccharine; it doesn't need augmentation. The florals are minimally indolic. Faint honey in the background as and sandalwood-ambery base develops. There is a somewhat sharp plasticy synthetic sheen over whole thing. Earlyn, is this what you mean my the "cellophane layer"? White musk increasing in the base, and smelling like fabric softener. It is going downhill, sadly.

    For most of its life, this is one of those scents that's so strong I can literally taste it. Not all strong fragrances have this effect...it seems rather unique to extremely powerful florientals. I enjoy this scent for the most part, immense as it is, but wish I didn't experience it as a bitter taste as well.

    Reminds me of Bijan Bijan, which I own, turned up to 11. This being 1993 and all, this is the scent of Whitney Houston, Tina Turner, Janet Jackson and Mariah Carey having epic, slightly aggressive sing-off.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 26th November 2019 at 07:30 PM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  29. #299

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    This Nicole Miller is just massive. A gigantic, plump fruity floriental. I get mostly jasmine and ylang at the start, extremely plush and opaque, against a concentrated ripe peach and something like orange marmalade. A cooler layer of tuberose after awhile. This is take-no-prisoners, wall-of-scent, gluttonous, attention-grabbing confidence in a bottle, and not for the faint of heart. It's sweet to me, but not "sweetened" - meaning thick jasmine and peach is just inherently saccharine; it doesn't need augmentation. The florals are minimally indolic. Faint honey in the background as and sandalwood-ambery base develops. There is a somewhat sharp plasticy synthetic sheen over whole thing. Earlyn, is this what you mean my the "cellophane layer"? White musk increasing in the base, and smelling like fabric softener. It is going downhill, sadly.

    For most of its life, this is one of those scents that's so strong I can literally taste it. Not all strong fragrances have this effect...it seems rather unique to extremely powerful florientals. I enjoy this scent, immense as it is, but wish I didn't experience it as a bitter taste as well.

    Reminds me of Bijan Bijan, which I own, turned up to 11. This being 1993 and all, this is the scent of Whitney Houston, Tina Turner, Janet Jackon and Mariah Carey having epic, slightly aggressive sing-off.
    I love these descriptions. I think we have similar experiences with this fragrance and you've put that to words so well.

    Yes, that cellophane layer is a little plastic-y, but transparent and not particularly bitter to me and I think I often get that with tuberose.

    I often taste fragrances and maybe am experiencing something similar to you. This one strangely hits along the sides of my tongue whereas many hit at the back. What I taste is styrene - the kind of plastic that bread tags are made of that get lighter/whitish in color when you bend them back and forth. I've chewed on them, bending them back and forth with my teeth till they break. It is a warming, bitter taste. Your comment about this happening for you mostly with florientals is interesting. I haven't made careful notes about which fragrances I taste, but I think will start.

    This didn't fall into a laundry smell in the dry down for me but kind of stayed the same, hit a little fig newton note, - fruity musk.

    I'm imagining that sing-off right now

    Overall, on a scale of 1-10, where do you put Bijan Bijan and Nicole Miller?
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  30. #300

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I love these descriptions. I think we have similar experiences with this fragrance and you've put that to words so well.

    Yes, that cellophane layer is a little plastic-y, but transparent and not particularly bitter to me and I think I often get that with tuberose.

    I often taste fragrances and maybe am experiencing something similar to you. This one strangely hits along the sides of my tongue whereas many hit at the back. What I taste is styrene - the kind of plastic that bread tags are made of that get lighter/whitish in color when you bend them back and forth. I've chewed on them, bending them back and forth with my teeth till they break. It is a warming, bitter taste. Your comment about this happening for you mostly with florientals is interesting. I haven't made careful notes about which fragrances I taste, but I think will start.

    This didn't fall into a laundry smell in the dry down for me but kind of stayed the same, hit a little fig newton note, - fruity musk.

    I'm imagining that sing-off right now

    Overall, on a scale of 1-10, where do you put Bijan Bijan and Nicole Miller?
    I prefer Bijan Bijan because it's a little easier to wear and less aggressive in its approach. It has some plastic elements (which to your point seem common for this type of scent in this era) but they fade in Bijan, where here they almost seem to grow with time. I'll need to re-sniff Bijan to validate this...but on a general level, I'd hesitate to wear NM in public, and feel quite comfortable in Bijan.

    Numbers...Bijan 7.5-8, Nicole Miller maybe a 5-6. I don't have much critical experience with 80s-90s florientals, so take this with a big grain of salt.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren




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