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  1. #301
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Rather than being a lemony blast at the open that disappears when the heart notes emerge, it starts and remains well integrated into the whole scent profile.

    I’m very much enjoying this at the start of the evening. I’ll say more tomorrow about how it progressed (and whether it went well with Thai food).
    Versace l'Homme progressed quite well. It was well-balanced all the way through, from the lemon and petitgrain against the basil in the opening easing through the patch and woods in the long-lasting heart, with a restrained moss and vanilla in the base that never turned into bombs of either—I can stand moss bombs, but not vanilla bombs—allowing a little leather to peek through. (I was wearing a leather jacket, so it was hard to identify the leather note in l'Homme.)

    As a clothing designer, Gianni Versace wasn't exactly known for subtlety, so this was a very pleasant surprise for me. It's not something I'd have bought but for the hosannas from BNers, and they guided me well.

  2. #302
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Bijan - 9
    Nicole Miller - 8

    I do get some laundry musk in Nicole Miller.

  3. #303

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I prefer Bijan Bijan because it's a little easier to wear and less aggressive in its approach. It has some plastic elements (which to your point seem common for this type of scent in this era) but they fade in Bijan, where here they almost seem to grow with time. I'll need to re-sniff Bijan to validate this...but on a general level, I'd hesitate to wear NM in public, and feel quite comfortable in Bijan.

    Numbers...Bijan 7.5-8, Nicole Miller maybe a 5-6. I don't have much critical experience with 80s-90s florientals, so take this with a big grain of salt.
    Thanks, good to know. I like the Nicole Miller but if there’s a chance of something along the same lines being better wearing then it is worth a look.

    Edit:
    Bijan - 9
    Nicole Miller - 8
    Bavard, looks like you were posting stats as I was writing. Bijan looks like a solid alternative.
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  4. #304
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    It’s hard to compare. They’re both so good. Bijan is woodier.

  5. #305

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I’m going to put our last fragrance up now because I want to get a picture up before anyone moves on.
    I found this bottle of Totem by Dana in an antique store in Oregon.
    I purchased it in August and am trying to find a good bottle to move the juice to so it isn’t further exposed to the bottle air.

    B140D2CD-A885-4272-A126-9F2417ADC020.jpg

    The original Totem was released in 1939 and was supposed to be the masculine complement to Tabu.
    It was inspired by the cover of a book by Sigmund Freud - make of that what you will.
    I can find no date for discontinuation and although Totem was rereleased in a modern version in 2003, it seems to bear no resemblance to the original. The bottle style is similar to vintage Tabu bottles. The pictured Totem bottle is not marked with a concentration. It is a large bottle and the stopper is all glass. I’m guessing this is a 6 ouncer. The juice is a root beer color similar to vintage Tabu.

    I’ve looked all over the internet and can find no other examples. There is almost no mention of it and no images of it. Aside from making samples, I haven’t opened it to try it again since the day I bought it. I do remember that I liked it much better than Tabu and I was shocked that I was getting some nice top notes. I’ll be wearing this tomorrow. Umm...thinking again, might have worn it another time.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Essence Rare by Houbigant

  6. #306
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Totem is a companion scent to Mouchoir de Monsieur, a lavender scent with a warm, animalic base. This is even nicer than the Guerlain, which was a 1990s sample, I think. This is more of a high-concentration vintage. The animalic base is more rounded.

    The lavender in the top is just right.

  7. #307

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Dana Totem - holy moses, this is wonderful. If this bottle is literally from 1939 or anywhere close, which it may be, that would make it the oldest juice I've ever smelled. And it doesn't smell "old" at all.

    In fact, the reference that comes most to mind is Serge Lutens Chergui, with a vintage spin and more depth. So: a tonka-heavy soft tobacco fougere that has the “hay” effect with florals (iris? and something else on top that I can't ID...more wears needed). A tiny bit of lavender, very smooth and blended. I wonder if there was once more lavender on top? It’s good as is but it does seem to go right to the (heavenly) base. There’s a wonderful, smooth, understated animalic growl. This is just heaven. I want to swim in this.

    Stylistically, it smells like it could have come out recently from a (very talented) indie. Or 1939. I can 100% see Hiram Green releasing something like this...that's a massive compliment to Hiram. Are time machines a thing? Honestly, I'm blown away - not sure I've ever smelled something quite so temporally mysterious. And just plain good.

    Side note: when I first applied, my wife asked if I was wearing Dune. And for a fleeting moment on top, I smelled it, then it disappeared. WTF? Time travel.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 27th November 2019 at 04:42 PM.
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  8. #308
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Dana Totem (1939)

    Earlyn very generously shared a sample from her bottle of perfume unobtainium with me a while ago. I agree with everyone--Totem smells great, with a rich, deep natural civet note. Alas, why is vintage Tabu to be found everywhere, but it seems that there was only one bottle of Totem ever made, the one Earlyn found in Oregon?

    I have been searching digital magazine archives for ads for Totem and have found nothing so far, even though there are many Dana perfumes ads from 1939 and into the 1940's. My box of vintage Dana minis doesn't include Totem.

    Totem is a deep mystery, but perfumes like this make vintage collecting so much fun! Thanks again, Earlyn, for sharing this rare find with us.

  9. #309
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Alas, why is vintage Tabu to be found everywhere, but it seems that there was only one bottle of Totem ever made, the one Earlyn found in Oregon?
    I'm hoping Earlyn is punking everyone and she actually mixed up that Totem in her basement lab, and then Photoshopped that raggedy old bottle.


  10. #310
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Thinking back over the samples from Earlyn:

    Thumbs Down
    Givenchy Organza Indecense edp
    Givenchy Fleur d'Interdit parfum
    Givenchy Extravagance d'Amarige edt

    Neutral
    Givenchy Amarige parfum
    Ralph Lauren Lauren cologne

    Thumbs Up
    Carven Ma Griffe parfum
    Shiaparelli Shocking edc
    Lanvin My Sin parfum
    Christian Dior Dune
    Coty Paris edt
    Coty Paris pdt
    Coty Chypre edp
    Ralph Lauren Safari cologne
    D'Orsay Voulez Vous parfum
    Lelong Balalaika parfum
    Nicole Miller parfum
    Dana Totem
    Givenchy Organza parfum

    Favorites
    Givenchy Ysatis edt
    Molinard Habanita edt
    Millot Crepe de Chine parfum
    Coty L'Aimant pdt
    Hermes Amazone edt
    Christian Dior Dioressence edt

    Thank you so much to Earlyn and everyone who posted!

  11. #311

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I'm hoping Earlyn is punking everyone and she actually mixed up that Totem in her basement lab, and then Photoshopped that raggedy old bottle.

    You have no idea how much I wish that were true - to be such a perfumer able to whip this up, but alas I am not.
    Pretty frequently I poke around looking for other examples and I have to believe they are out there somewhere - just a matter of time. Too sad to think this is the equivalent of a pet dodo
    ”I want all the perfumes”
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  12. #312
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Pretty frequently I poke around looking for other examples and I have to believe they are out there somewhere - just a matter of time. Too sad to think this is the equivalent of a pet dodo
    Maybe you should try writing to someone at the Osmotheque and see if they have records of Totem.

  13. #313
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    "Dana" has not been on my radar, although I do know English Leather. I did think of English Leather in the opening of Totem.

    Totem developed quickly, and was soon more like Mouchoir de Monsieur.

  14. #314

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    "Dana" has not been on my radar, although I do know English Leather. I did think of English Leather in the opening of Totem.

    Totem developed quickly, and was soon more like Mouchoir de Monsieur.
    I remember English Leather on my dad. Loved that smell. I do see the light veil of Mouchoir de Monsieur there. Two fragrances I really like so no surprise I like the Totem.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Maybe you should try writing to someone at the Osmotheque and see if they have records of Totem.
    Now that’s a good idea.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
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  15. #315
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    "Dana" has not been on my radar, although I do know English Leather. I did think of English Leather in the opening of Totem.
    My dad had a bottle of English Leather in the 1960's. I can't remember how it smelled but I thought the bottle was cool with its hunk of real wood cap.

    Vintage Dana perfumes are very good but you have to look for older bottles (1960's or earlier) and, ideally, the parfum formulation. The now-ubiquitous Canoe was launched as a unisex aromatic fougere in 1936 and was composed by Carles. Vintage Canoe parfum is on par with Jicky, IMHO. I also like 20 Carats (1933) and Emir (1935), also by Carles.

  16. #316
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    My dad had a bottle of English Leather in the 1960's. I can't remember how it smelled but I thought the bottle was cool with its hunk of real wood cap.

    Vintage Dana perfumes are very good but you have to look for older bottles (1960's or earlier) and, ideally, the parfum formulation. The now-ubiquitous Canoe was launched as a unisex aromatic fougere in 1936 and was composed by Carles. Vintage Canoe parfum is on par with Jicky, IMHO. I also like 20 Carats (1933) and Emir (1935), also by Carles.
    Thank you for the leads! I've ordered some older-looking English Leather to sample - I had found myself mentioning it often - it seemed like I wanted some. It's good to have the option to explore more Dana fragrances.

    You and LiveJazz have been champion swappers and synchronizers over multiple events - I'm so grateful! Thank you!

  17. #317
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Maybe you should try writing to someone at the Osmotheque and see if they have records of Totem.
    I agree, good idea!

    I just emailed the current Dana company as well. I was pleasantly surprised to see the website offers a nice archive of Dana perfume history (danabeauty.com). What the heck, right?

  18. #318
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Thank you for the leads! I've ordered some older-looking English Leather to sample - I had found myself mentioning it often - it seemed like I wanted some. It's good to have the option to explore more Dana fragrances.

    You and LiveJazz have been champion swappers and synchronizers over multiple events - I'm so grateful! Thank you!
    You are welcome! I just love discussing and sharing vintage perfumes so these threads are meat and drink to me (to mix metaphors and senses). Earlyn and I exchanged a batch of samples a little while ago, that overlaps with some of the samples you already have. Perhaps we can fill in the gaps for you (and other interested parties) and get another vintage synch going.

  19. #319
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    You are welcome! I just love discussing and sharing vintage perfumes so these threads are meat and drink to me (to mix metaphors and senses). Earlyn and I exchanged a batch of samples a little while ago, that overlaps with some of the samples you already have. Perhaps we can fill in the gaps for you (and other interested parties) and get another vintage synch going.
    I'm in.

  20. #320

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Me too!



    To keep the sampling chatter going...I'm getting back to testing the Lanvin My Sin extrait today, which I missed back at the beginning of this thread before Earlyn's generous package arrived. I could swear I smelled tuberose at the opening, but per the pyramid, it ain't that, so guessing it must me a plump neroli cooling down some jasmine. I really like the opening "cool sweet damp floral" effect. I think I get a slight carroty-rooty tone from the orris. Lots of other floral notes are listed, but no way can I pick them out.

    It warms and dries out heading into the base, and starts to wear very close to the skin. Vanilla, something faintly almond-like, and I get a dusty, musty, yeasty kind of woody note (verhaps the vetiver against a rich vintage musk/civet?) like an old crest of drawers with some wool sweaters inside, which were at some point long ago scented with L'Heure Bleue.

    Great stuff, but wish per better performance. I'm only a few hours in and it feels like the base is starting to peter out, sadly.

    ~~

    I also tried Balalaika on schedule but didn't have time to write. Memory is a bit hazy on that one...I recall it being very green, bracing, soapy and sheer. Honestly, this one didn't speak to me. I think it just needed more meat on the bones. I recall there were some comments about potentially poor performance, but that's wasn't the issue for me, really. It just seemed to lack a foundation during my wear.

    ~~

    Going back further in the pass, I wore Habit Rouge EDT (modern) the other day. I wasn't following this thread at the time it was officially sampled, and I'm sure the notes and structure were well accounted for. I'll just add that from a personal perspective, Habit Rouge is one of the happiest, most festive scents ever. The imagery of a dandy red coat, the bright, rich, smiling lemon and herbal zest and spiced florals against the plush, sweet vanilla/leather...it just makes me smile and brightens by day. It reminds me of a fancy, classy holiday party, which makes it perfect for this time of year.

    While it could easily cross over into "silly dandy puffery" territory, the dustiness of the Guerainade base and the grounding of leather keep it in safe territory. It has a little bit of a leathery-incense bite to it, which is needed. It's an engaging and entertaining scent to wear, as it goes through a pretty extreme and easily detected evolution from top to base. Definitely a winter star in my wardrobe.

    I have smelled the vintage EDC and recall the citrus is somewhat brighter, and it's dustier as it evolves, but largely the same. I also have a decant the L'Extrait. I need to wear it again, but have been "conserving" it, a bad habit I have with more rare scents.

    I think this is one where modern and vintage are both great.
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  21. #321

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Darn it! I’ve been working on my preference summary on and off since yesterday and just lost the post. Trying again. For future consideration I had catalogued suggested comparison and contrast fragrances that posters mentioned on the thread and will edit those back in again soon since others may be interested in seeing that at a glance. For now I’ll keep it simple.

    I listed all the samples because some of the feminines are just starting to get studied wears from me. Not surprised that almost all of these thread fragrances are thumbs up. The feminine Givenchys seemed the most uneven. I assume that the more fragrances I sample, the better I will get at recognizing a love connection at first go.

    All the masculines are thumbs up for me - thanks, Bavard, for the top notch selections!
    The only comment I have is a preference for Habit Rouge edc over the edt (as of now)
    Looking at my notes it is hard to assign favorites status - I seemed to have liked them all and am going to need more wearing.

    Guerlain Habit Rouge edc 1980s - preference for this over edt for me
    Guerlain Habit Rouge edt 1990s
    Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur edt 1990s
    Moschino Pour Homme edt 1990s
    Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt
    Christian Dior Jules edt 1990s
    Chanel Pour Monsieur cologne 1990
    Chanel Pour Monsieur edt concentree 1990
    Chanel Egoiste edt 1990
    Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    Marc de la Morandiere Gengis Khan edt 1990s
    Versace L'Homme edt 1980s

    These are thumbs up:
    I like all of these when I am wearing them, and they are good enough to become my favorite for the day. Some I have had less exposure to so picking favorites is difficult. The ones that are in bold are the ones I tend to reach for most as of now.

    Carven Ma Griffe parfum 1940s to 60s
    Millot Crepe de Chine parfum 1960
    Shiaparelli Shocking edc 1950
    Lanvin My Sin parfum 1950s or 60s
    Coty Paris edt 1950s - preferred over pdt but fleeting
    Coty Paris pdt 1960s or 70s
    Coty Chypre edp 1960s or 70s
    Coty L'Aimant pdt 1960s or 70s
    Christian Dior Dune 1991
    Christian Dior Dioressence edt 1970s
    Molinard Habanita edt early 1990s
    Hermes Amazone edt 1970s or 80s
    Givenchy Ysatis edt 1984 - for now am liking this one best of the Givenchys
    Givenchy Amarige parfum 1991
    Givenchy Organza parfum 1996
    Ralph Lauren Safari cologne 1990
    Ralph Lauren Lauren cologne 1984
    D'Orsay Voulez Vous parfum 1965 - liked this enough to get more
    Lelong Balalaika parfum 1950s - liked this enough to get another small bottle in the 1960-70s range I think
    Nicole Miller parfum 1993
    Dana Totem (original)

    Thumbs up with reservations:
    Givenchy Organza Indecense edp 1996 - in tiny doses for when I’m feeling WACy


    Not for me:
    Givenchy Fleur d'Interdit parfum 1994
    Givenchy Extravagance d'Amarige edt - so unpredictable wear to wear & not great on me

    Thanks to everyone that's posted to the thread so far.

    I’m definitely up for rolling again.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Essence Rare by Houbigant

  22. #322
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I could go again after the holidays. Do we have a theme or a set of parameters? I was thinking about incorporating d’Orsay (mine and perhaps others’).

  23. #323
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    My dad had a bottle of English Leather in the 1960's. I can't remember how it smelled but I thought the bottle was cool with its hunk of real wood cap.

    Vintage Dana perfumes are very good but you have to look for older bottles (1960's or earlier) and, ideally, the parfum formulation. The now-ubiquitous Canoe was launched as a unisex aromatic fougere in 1936 and was composed by Carles. Vintage Canoe parfum is on par with Jicky, IMHO. I also like 20 Carats (1933) and Emir (1935), also by Carles.
    English Leather was originally produced by MEM, and was merely branded as a Dana perfume in the 90's when New Renaissance purchased formulas from defunct MEM, Dana, and defunct-at-the-time Houbigant, rebranding itself New Dana (then Dana Classics in 2000's).
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  24. #324
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Of the ones I wore for the sync, I’d break them down thusly:

    Thumbs up (in order of sync):

    Moschino pour Homme
    Dior Jules
    Chanel pour Monsieur
    Chanel pour Monsieur Concentrée
    Chanel Égoïste
    Marc de la Morandière Gengis Khan
    Versace l’Homme

    Thumbs sideways:

    Lanvin My Sin
    Balenciaga Ho Hang Club
    Givenchy Gentleman

    Thumbs down:

    Guerlain Habit Rouge

  25. #325
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I love the summary posts from Earlyn and PStoller - sad to think there used to be Basenotes without Earlyn and PStoller.

    Earlyn and I have a lot of agreement in our impressions.

    Interesting that PStoller has reservations about Habit Rouge, Ho Hang Club, and Givenchy Gentleman, but not Versace L'Homme or Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree.

    I can understand Habit Rouge and Ho Hang Club, but a neutral for Givenchy Gentleman is a surprise. So much so, I would half expect a revised rating in the not-too-distant future.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus View Post
    I think for me the magic in vintage Habit Rouge EdT is in the perfect balance of the beautiful/sophisticated notes (citrus/sandal/rose/vanilla/amber) and the more dirty/earthy notes (carnation/moss/leather/cinnamon) giving the fragrance depth and substance. I believe true beauty can only be experienced with a lived-through notion of it’s counterbalance, and for me there isn’t a fragrance that demonstrates this better than vintage Habit Rouge EdT. The EdP for example leans much more to the smooth/elegant side of things for me (don’t get me wrong, I also love that one). Therefore it becomes more easy to wear, but it also has a bit less character and depth. Vintage EdT for me is a 10/10 masterpiece, and if I would really have to choose one of my fragrances as a “signature scent” this would be it. This is the fragrance I feel most emotionally connected to. It probably shows in my writing, as I find it impossible to stick to “just” smelling notes. Habit Rouge for me is not about smelling it is about feeling.
    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I'll just add that from a personal perspective, Habit Rouge is one of the happiest, most festive scents ever. The imagery of a dandy red coat, the bright, rich, smiling lemon and herbal zest and spiced florals against the plush, sweet vanilla/leather...it just makes me smile and brightens my day. It reminds me of a fancy, classy holiday party, which makes it perfect for this time of year.
    Habit Rouge inspires good writing.

  26. #326
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Interesting that PStoller has reservations about Habit Rouge, Ho Hang Club, and Givenchy Gentleman, but not Versace L'Homme or Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree.

    I can understand Habit Rouge and Ho Hang Club, but a neutral for Givenchy Gentleman is a surprise. So much so, I would half expect a revised rating in the not-too-distant future.
    While I’m quite sure about my distaste for HR—mine is decidedly not the nose for which it was composed—I’m unsure about HHC and GG. The latter in particular may either render me anosmic or simply be a bad bottle, so I'm going to need an alternate sample. HHC, I was not feeling well when I first wore it. It left a better impression later, but I think I need another go at it before I pass judgment about how it works for me.

    The Versace, I like very much indeed. Conversely, CpMC is probably my least favorite of the thumbs-up scents; I prefer the original CpM (by whatever name), and Égoïste even more.

    This was all great fun! I just wish I’d had the full complement of frags on hand, and that I hadn’t caught a cold midway.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    The Versace, I like very much indeed.
    Basenotes has paid for itself, I think, if you find at least one really good one.I liked your notes on Versace L'Homme.

  28. #328
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Basenotes has paid for itself, I think, if you find at least one really good one. I liked your notes on Versace L'Homme.
    Thanks! I like all your notes. As for finding good ones, BN has paid for itself at least a hundred times over. Now, if only I could get it to pay for the frags…




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