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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus View Post
    In the opening I get this big splash of a very juicy note I would describe as an abstract citrus note. I don’t think it really smells like real natural citrus, but for me it evokes the feeling of biting in a very juicy citrus fruit. This note is already supported by rose and carnation, and from the offset it is clear this isn’t a fragrance designed to please everyone. For me the opening is a very bold statement, and I can easily see why people would either hate it or love it (I belong in the latter camp).

    After the opening the lemon gradually resides to the background, and I think it is here that many people feel this goes into “grandma’s purse” or “lipstick” territory. I think this maybe has to do something with the cinnamon in Habit Rouge, which can give of a dusty/powdery feeling. I personally associate that cinnamon (and maybe in combo with the patchouli?) note in here more with a dusty earthy quality, and together with the rose/carnation combo it gives me a very central/south European “old world” feeling which I find truly mesmerizing. The further I go into the dry down (this fragrance easily last the whole day on me) the more the typical comforting Guerlinade comes up, but the earthiness/dirtiness never completely disappears.

    I think for me the magic in vintage Habit Rouge EdT is in the perfect balance of the beautiful/sophisticated notes (citrus/sandal/rose/vanilla/amber) and the more dirty/earthy notes (carnation/moss/leather/cinnamon) giving the fragrance depth and substance. I believe true beauty can only be experienced with a lived-through notion of it’s counterbalance, and for me there isn’t a fragrance that demonstrates this better than vintage Habit Rouge EdT. The EdP for example leans much more to the smooth/elegant side of things for me (don’t get me wrong, I also love that one). Therefore it becomes more easy to wear, but it also has a bit less character and depth. Vintage EdT for me is a 10/10 masterpiece, and if I would really have to choose one of my fragrances as a “signature scent” this would be it. This is the fragrance I feel most emotionally connected to. It probably shows in my writing, as I find it impossible to stick to “just” smelling notes. Habit Rouge for me is not about smelling it is about feeling.
    I love this write-up. I agree about the old-world feeling. I love that part, too. The earthy feeling might come from the musk? I have moments with the edt when I feel just like you about it being a perfect 10 - a perfect patchouli, a perfect musk.

    You'll have to keep an eye out for some edc. It's hard to imagine you wouldn't like it. Earlyn's description about it being a more separated water color was representative, I thought, in comparison to the edt.

  2. #32
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I love this write-up. I agree about the old-world feeling. I love that part, too. The earthy feeling might come from the musk? I have moments with the edt when I feel just like you about it being a perfect 10 - a perfect patchouli, a perfect musk.

    You'll have to keep an eye out for some edc. It's hard to imagine you wouldn't like it. Earlyn's description about it being a more separated water color was representative, I thought, in comparison to the edt.
    Yes, I definitely have an eye out for the EdC. The notes from yesterday where very interesting to read, and convinced me that the EdC stands enough on it's own to go after.
    Currently wearing: Incense Oud by Nicolaï

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Our sample today is Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    0620BB67-D0E3-4CBB-A923-B90032F193A9.jpg

    This is a 1904 release! That is old school for a men's fragrance. Chanel's first came in 1955. Their second in 1981.

    In the box with my Habit Rouge bottle was an insert advertising Guerlain's three masculines: Vetiver (1961), Habit Rouge (1965), and Derby (1985). There was no mention of Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    This is a lavender fragrance with the Guerlain house base and some animalic, maybe civet. I love animalic notes, and I like the one here.

    I'm still deciding how much I like this overall. In moments, I'm very happy with it, and in some moments, mostly early on, I'm not entirely comfortable. I think it is trending to be something I really like and celebrate, but it's a process of getting to know it.

    It is a good companion to Habit Rouge. They would go together well in rotation.

    This has a tiny bit of sweetness. It's nicely done. This is more similar to Habit Rouge edc than edt, I think; more water color than oil paint.

    From the Basenotes Directory:

    Mouchoir de Monsieur is a masculine fragrance by Guerlain. The scent was launched in 1904 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Jacques Guerlain.

    Notes
    Verbena, Geranium, Bergamot, Lavender
    Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose, Neroli, Patchouli
    Woods, Cinnamon, Civet, Musk, Iris, Vanilla, Tonka bean
    I put the notes I think I recognize in bold.

    From Guerlain:

    In the early 20th century, dandies wore perfume in a discreet and refined way, starting the fashion of delicately perfumed handkerchiefs of fine batiste. With a nod to this indispensable accessory and the turn-of-the-century's emblem of good taste, Jacques Guerlain created one of the very first men's fragrances in 1904. Mouchoir de Monsieur marries citrusy freshness and the vivaciousness of aromatic notes with the subtlety of a fougère accord nuanced with delicately powdered wood.

    FRAGRANCE
    Citrus Fougère.
    Refined, elegant, rare.

    Composed of rare and noble essences, Mouchoir de Monsieur takes flight with top notes of citrus and aromatic accents leading to floral notes of rose, jasmine and neroli on a woody dry-down enveloped in a whisper of powder.

    PERFUMER SECRETS
    Guerlain creations each have their own story and sometimes have intertwining themes. This is the case of Mouchoir de Monsieur and Jicky, which both have a very bold and classic fougère accord.

    ALSO DISCOVER
    Jicky Eau de Toilette

  4. #34

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus;

    After the opening the lemon gradually resides to the background, and I think it is here that many people feel this goes into “grandma’s purse” or “lipstick” territory. I think this maybe has to do something with the cinnamon in Habit Rouge, which can give of a dusty/powdery feeling. I personally associate that cinnamon (and maybe in combo with the patchouli?) note in here more with a dusty earthy quality, and together with the rose/carnation combo it gives me a very central/south European “old world” feeling which I find truly mesmerizing. The further I go into the dry down (this fragrance easily last the whole day on me) the more the typical comforting Guerlinade comes up, but the earthiness/dirtiness never completely disappears.

    I think for me the magic in vintage Habit Rouge EdT is in the perfect balance of the beautiful/sophisticated notes (citrus/sandal/rose/vanilla/amber) and the more dirty/earthy notes (carnation/moss/leather/cinnamon) giving the fragrance depth and substance. I believe true beauty can only be experienced with a lived-through notion of it’s counterbalance, and for me there isn’t a fragrance that demonstrates this better than vintage Habit Rouge EdT. The EdP for example leans much more to the smooth/elegant side of things for me (don’t get me wrong, I also love that one). Therefore it becomes more easy to wear, but it also has a bit less character and depth. Vintage EdT for me is a 10/10 masterpiece, and if I would really have to choose one of my fragrances as a “signature scent” this would be it. This is the fragrance I feel most emotionally connected to. It probably shows in my writing, as I find it impossible to stick to “just” smelling notes. Habit Rouge for me is not about smelling it is about feeling.
    Glad to read your notes on Habit Rouge edt and the details on that old world powder note - interesting about the cinnamon in combo with the patchouli possibly creating the dustiness, which might be why this powder seems tan to me. This note can be challenging for me but I'm interested in exploring it by way of comparison as I gain more exposure. I kept smelling hints of what I think was pachouli and carnation into the dry down and experienced the same dirty/earthy edge there and that was nice.

    From the edt to edp you describe a progression of smoothness and wearablilty coupled with a bit less character/depth. I'd imagine we could make a flight of edc, edt, edp, where you feel the edt expresses the best combination of balance and depth - a perfect 10/10, with the jagged progression of the edc rated lower for balance (but gets props for excitement). Your description, along with my experience of the edc and edt make me see these as generational - a rambunctious kid, a man in his prime, and bit more reserved gentleman.

    Your writing does show your emotional connection and it is helpful to hear about the tones and associations in addition to the specific note analysis you do, as it can help readers consider their relationship with some aspects (like that old world powder). I mostly use imagery to communicate my testing because I am not yet skilled at naming notes although I know this skill will expand as I go through more and more samples.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    It would be fun to hear from Sam in London in Paris on Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    The Mr. G Review:

    Mouchoir de Monsieur ('gentleman's handkerchief') was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1904 and still has a loyal fan base. It's from an epoch where well-to-do, hat-wearing ladies promenaded with their gloved hand under the arm of elegant monsieurs. In the gentleman's breast pocket sat a small handkerchief, and it was 'bon ton' to offer this handkerchief lightly perfumed with cologne to the lady as a romantic souvenir. According to Guerlain, Jacques initially conceived this perfume along with its female counterpart Voilette de Madame as a gift set for a friend's wedding. Heavy perfumes were not in fashion at the turn of the century, so this fragrance is a delicate, aromatic fougère. Some argue that Mouchoir de Monsieur is basically a more straightforward version of Jicky, i.e. Jicky without the balsamic opoponax base note.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I have access to some of these and will try to join where possible:

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    1. Guerlain Habit Rouge edc 1980s
    2. Guerlain Habit Rouge edt 1990s
    3. Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur edt 1990s [I think I have some...]
    6. Moschino Pour Homme edt 1990s
    9. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt
    14. Christian Dior Jules edt 1990s
    15. Christian Dior Dioressence edt 1970s
    16. Christian Dior Dune 1991 [mine isn't vintage]
    17. Chanel Pour Monsieur cologne 1990
    19. Chanel Egoiste edt 1990 [mine's not quite this old, I don't think]
    20. Molinard Habanita edt early 1990s
    21. Hermes Amazone edt 1970s or 80s
    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    29. Marc de la Morandiere Gengis Khan edt 1990s [sample from Big B]
    30. Ralph Lauren Safari cologne 1990
    34. Versace L'Homme edt 1980s [mine's likely 90s]
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  7. #37

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I have access to some of these and will try to join where possible:
    That a lot of overlap! - hope you'll share notes here.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  8. #38

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Thanks, Bavard, for posting the very helpful notes and background on daily samples. I think the prominent notes you hi lighted were to most prominent for me as well. Sorry I suck at quoting and unquoting things for posting. Need to work on that but I've been busy smelling and making notes!

    Mouchoir de Monsieur-

    Strong bergamot opening to me, and a there’ a quick flash of licorice note right before a transition to a drier bergamot that melds with the blooming floral.

    An interesting thing here – I gave myself a little preview of this last night and at this point in the progression the lavender rang clear as a bell with other florals supporting. I put this on my right arm in the AM to sample and was surprised by the more blended heavier floral that bloomed. Last night my sprayer made a splooge but this morning made a fine mist. So on my left arm I slowly sprayed some drips, and after the opening there it was – the lavender standing above the other florals for a time.

    Along with the lavender is a bitter edge that balances the sweet makeup powder rising with the other flowers. Jasmine is one of the few that I usually recognize but not with this blend. The powder effect gets whiter as it goes along becoming more diffuse and enveloping – less like pressed powder and more like a comedic pouf that settles leaving a uniformly white face interrupted only by dark blinking eyes. I enjoy the lightness the florals lend to this powder that is pleasant and not stifling. The makeup smell leaves as the musk gently pushes forward.

    It would be reasonable to say I’m getting tonka. I recently smelled a drawer full of tonka beans at the Mandy Aftel museum and the combination of caramel-vanilla-cherry-almond-spice is in line with this vanilla+++ in the dry down. It is very sweet for a time but settles down to a musky sweet (moderately) and woods in a combination that reminds me of the addictive smell of my babies’ heads. I used to carry them (the whole baby, not just the heads) in one of those Bjorn things on my chest and my nose was constantly parked and sniffing right at the crown of their fuzzy noggins. I also get similar smells from very young kitten and puppy bellies. Milky, vanilla, sweet skin, animal/dander. I don’t know specifically what civet smells like, but if I’m smelling babies then it probably has something to do with that. Dry down is nice. After a very long time it smells like original Jergen's lotion.

    This fragrance definitely seems like something that would accompany a waxed mustache but I'd carry this hanky.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  9. #39

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    The next sample up is Ma Griffe from Carven, launched in 1946
    Composed by Jean Carles. Crazy he composed this after he had essentially lost his ability to smell.

    I estimate the sample bottle below is 1950s - 60s


    47E8FAAE-1EF0-4B03-AC1B-88D847A6E568.jpg

    From Perfume Intelligence-
    Created by Jean Carles of Roure Perfumers, the name translates ‘my signature’, a crisp green mossy chypre floral parfum

    top notes of gardenia, citrus, galbanum and clary sage;
    heart notes of jasmine and rose
    base notes of sandalwood, vetiver, oak moss, benzoin, labdanum, and musk.

    Presented in a cube shaped bottle with its spiral cap designed by Jacques Bocquet.
    Package in a green and white deep ‘V’ shaped designed box, which echoed the plunging neckline of Ms. Carven’s signature dress.
    “Crisp, green, mossy, Chypre, floral” - some of my favorite descriptors.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  10. #40
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Yay! Ma Griffe! (I love this one,) I will slather myself with Ma Griffe this morning and report back on its effects.

    IMG_3312.JPG

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Glad to read your notes on Habit Rouge edt and the details on that old world powder note - interesting about the cinnamon in combo with the patchouli possibly creating the dustiness, which might be why this powder seems tan to me. This note can be challenging for me but I'm interested in exploring it by way of comparison as I gain more exposure. I kept smelling hints of what I think was pachouli and carnation into the dry down and experienced the same dirty/earthy edge there and that was nice.

    From the edt to edp you describe a progression of smoothness and wearablilty coupled with a bit less character/depth. I'd imagine we could make a flight of edc, edt, edp, where you feel the edt expresses the best combination of balance and depth - a perfect 10/10, with the jagged progression of the edc rated lower for balance (but gets props for excitement). Your description, along with my experience of the edc and edt make me see these as generational - a rambunctious kid, a man in his prime, and bit more reserved gentleman.

    Your writing does show your emotional connection and it is helpful to hear about the tones and associations in addition to the specific note analysis you do, as it can help readers consider their relationship with some aspects (like that old world powder). I mostly use imagery to communicate my testing because I am not yet skilled at naming notes although I know this skill will expand as I go through more and more samples.
    I'm also by no means very skilled at naming and recognizing notes, but I just try to recognize them and make sense of them having a note pyramid at hand.
    In any way I find it just as interesting what imagery a scent brings to someone as that also says a lot. Especially if you know what taste a person has, and if it aligns with yours.

    That's why little topics like these are so interesting for me to read, as everyone who is reacting here has what I would consider a very good taste. So that makes it inherently valuable to me what everyone has to say about these scents that have my interest.
    Currently wearing: Incense Oud by Nicolaï

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus View Post
    I'm also by no means very skilled at naming and recognizing notes, but I just try to recognize them and make sense of them having a note pyramid at hand.
    In any way I find it just as interesting what imagery a scent brings to someone as that also says a lot. Especially if you know what taste a person has, and if it aligns with yours.

    That's why little topics like these are so interesting for me to read, as everyone who is reacting here has what I would consider a very good taste. So that makes it inherently valuable to me what everyone has to say about these scents that have my interest.
    Thanks for the shout out!

    I wore Ma Griffe this morning. It was nice. I put on some more around noon.

    It's a fair bit like a vintage Dior, Miss Dior, maybe, and/or one of the fruitier ones. For some reason, Guerlain Chamade also keeps crossing my mind. It's not that it smells so much like Chamade, but they have a flood of notes, that pretty much coalesce into one accord, and they're extremely safe smelling, to me at least.

    In the opening few minutes, Ma Griffe smells a lot like a bar of soap, maybe Dial. It develops fairly quickly, within five minutes, into the vintage Dior vibe.

    The name, My Signature, works because it's such a safe, everyday scent, a soapy, floral, lightly-powdered chypre.

    After finishing the second application, and thinking about it more, Ma Griffe is more floral than the Diors, I think. It's more a flower-centered fragrance. It does have an animalic period during the base - it is masculine for a bit there - perhaps castoreum.
    Last edited by Bavard; 25th October 2019 at 11:47 PM.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Might we have another day, or half-day with the Ma Griffe?

    I developed a sinus headache last night (Thursday) that sprang into full migraine this morning and has not subsided yet this evening, so I couldn’t wear the Ma Griffe today I suspect by morning my face will no longer feel like it is going to explode, so I can try again.

    Also would love to give time in case others are sampling -
    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Yay! Ma Griffe! (I love this one,) I will slather myself with Ma Griffe this morning and report back on its effects.
    -hoping to hear about grayspoole’s dousing.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Thanks for the shout out!

    I wore Ma Griffe this morning. It was nice. I put on some more around noon.

    It's a fair bit like a vintage Dior, Miss Dior, maybe, and/or one of the fruitier ones. For some reason, Guerlain Chamade also keeps crossing my mind. It's not that it smells so much like Chamade, but they have a flood of notes, that pretty much coalesce into one accord, and they're extremely safe smelling, to me at least.

    In the opening few minutes, Ma Griffe smells a lot like a bar of soap, maybe Dial. It develops fairly quickly, within five minutes, into the vintage Dior vibe.

    The name, My Signature, works because it's such a safe, everyday scent, a soapy, floral, lightly-powdered chypre.

    After finishing the second application, and thinking about it more, Ma Griffe is more floral than the Diors, I think. It's more a flower-centered fragrance. It does have an animalic period during the base - it is masculine for a bit there - perhaps castoreum.

    I was looking forward to Ma Griffe because it is one of my favorites. It works for me like assuming a superhero pose so maybe it is that masculine edge you are describing that does it for me. A perky opening around galbanum will generally make me very happy.

    Interesting you should mention Miss Dior, as Jean Carles was a collaborator on that one around the same time. I recall from past wearings of Ma Griffe that I get soap as you do but don’t remember the specifics. I’ll try to note that during my wearing and also put a dab of Miss Dior on the other arm. Seems like a good side-by-side for exploring variation on the floral qualities.

    During the day tomorrow (Saturday) I’ll put up a picture and some pyramid notes on the Millot Crepe de Chine parfum so we can move along with that sample.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I'm more than happy to do a second day in Ma Griffe. I'll add a drop of Miss Dior on the other arm later in the day.

    Update: My second day in Ma Griffe is going even better than the first. If I had 100-ml spray (or larger) it could go into rotation. Any feeling I had that it might lean feminine during the first wearing is gone.

    The main accord has flowers, but it only makes a dusty powder smell on top of the earthy wood heart. This radiates quiet confidence. It doesn't smell ambitious. It doesn't smell like it's exuding any effort. It is anchored by an ingredient or two that are so surefooted it guarantees a good experience.

    Jules mentioned Miss Balmain, so I pulled that out. Miss Balmain is much more exciting, more of an event. Ma Griffe is as the name suggests, something easy to wear everyday.

    Next, she pulled out Dior-Dior, and I have to agree that Dior-Dior has crossed my mind while wearing this. We think there's some similarity in feel between Ma Griffe and Dior-Dior.
    Last edited by Bavard; 26th October 2019 at 06:13 PM.

  15. #45

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post

    Update: My second day in Ma Griffe is going even better than the first. If I had 100-ml spray (or larger) it could go into rotation. Any feeling I had that it might lean feminine during the first wearing is gone.

    The main accord has flowers, but it only makes a dusty powder smell on top of the earthy wood heart. This radiates quiet confidence. It doesn't smell ambitious. It doesn't smell like it's exuding any effort. It is anchored by an ingredient or two that are so surefooted it guarantees a good experience.

    Jules mentioned Miss Balmain, so I pulled that out. Miss Balmain is much more exciting, more of an event. Ma Griffe is as the name suggests, something easy to wear everyday.

    Next, she pulled out Dior-Dior, and I have to agree that Dior-Dior has crossed my mind while wearing this. We think there's some similarity in feel between Ma Griffe and Dior-Dior.
    Hurray, my head is clear!
    Totally agree with your sense of Ma Griffe exuding quiet confidence. After the brief green opening - which is more brownish green than bright, the soap that I am smelling comes up early with the florals and is at first like Ivory and then trends more towards the antibacterial Dial note you mentioned. I'm starting to recognize the warmth of the rose/jasmine combo that we had in the Habit Rouge, and I smell hints of it here although it is much less forward amongst the other flowers, less powdery (I get the dusty powder you describe), and cooled by the moss and woods I think. A little way into the mossy woody dry down there a salty mist that floats.

    Comparing Ma Griffe with the Miss Dior edt on my other arm - the Ma Griffe smells more bitter in the middle with a little stink throughout compared to the Dior which I experience as a sweet boozy fruit cake with nuts that follows an opening that is a brighter green than the Ma Griffe. I do not have Miss Balmain for comparison, but I would say that the Miss Dior is also much more of an event, as you say, than the Ma Griffe. Along those lines - the packaging for the Ma Griffe may have been representative at the release, but for modern tastes I would not see it as so bold (age of the sample aside). Instead of the sharp green and white striped plunging neckline, I see it more like an Green, Brown, Ivory and Pink scarf.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  16. #46

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I'm posting this now because I will be at an event and won't be able to until after you East-coaster's are up and testing in the morning, so please continue comments on the Ma Griffe meanwhile.

    Crepe de Chine by Millot
    Released in 1925
    Advertising image from Cleopatra's Boudoir, second image is the sample bottles-

    crep.jpgIMG_6674.jpg

    Here's the HUGE note pyramid from the Basenotes directory but I thought it would be fun to put a spoilers tag on it in case you only want to reveal it after sampling:
    Hint; there's a lot more going on than what is listed in the ad.
     
    Top Notes
    Neroli, Italian bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Egyptian basil, Oil of peru, Aldehydes
    Heart Notes
    Gardenia, Ylang ylang, Carnation, Lilac, Rose oil, Romanian chamomille, Egyptian jasmine
    Base notes
    Sandalwood, East indian musk, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Vetiver, Benzoin, Labdanum, Indonesian patchouli


    This, also from Cleopatra's Boudoir notes some aroma chemicals and places Crepe De Chine in VERY good company:
    Synthetic Perfumes: Their Chemistry and Preparation, 1949:
    "Isobutyl phenylacetate (synonym: eglantine) has a very sweet and powerful honey like odor that imparts individual freshness to flowery perfumes such as rose, carnation and tuberose as well as oriental type perfumes: example: Mitsouko, Crepe de Chine and Tabac Blond.
    Citraldiethylacetal has a lemon like odor, much milder than citral. It is used in Eau de Cologne and to give a top note in Crepe de Chine, Mitsouko and similar fancy perfumes."
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  17. #47
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I'm posting this now because I will be at an event and won't be able to until after you East-coaster's are up and testing in the morning, so please continue comments on the Ma Griffe meanwhile.

    Crepe de Chine by Millot
    Released in 1925
    Advertising image from Cleopatra's Boudoir, second image is the sample bottles-

    crep.jpgIMG_6674.jpg

    Here's the HUGE note pyramid from the Basenotes directory but I thought it would be fun to put a spoilers tag on it in case you only want to reveal it after sampling:
    Hint; there's a lot more going on than what is listed in the ad.


    This, also from Cleopatra's Boudoir notes some aroma chemicals and places Crepe De Chine in VERY good company:
    I found significant differences between the EDC and Parfum concentration, the EDC having more emphasis on the woods and leather making it bit more darker IMO. The parfum concentration has a stronger presence of oakmoss with refreshing notes of citrus, galbanum and aldehydes. Green, aromatic, floral. My preference is the parfum concentration.
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

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  18. #48
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Hi--

    Y’all are leaving me behind...I’d better hurry up and post about Ma Griffe so I can move on to Crepe de Chine. I wore Ma Griffe over two days, and I will certainly wear it again. Bavard/Earlyn--I agree with you that it is a quiet, confident scent. Here’s a photo of my bottles.

    A37571AA-1BE5-4DBF-B339-B57DDB50EEDC.jpg

    I’ve enjoyed the PDT for a few years (I believe it is from the 1980’s) and then I acquired the extrait. They resemble each other quite closely. It’s all good. If I reflect, I can see the resemblance between Ma Griffe and Miss Dior, but they have always seemed quite different in feeling to me and so I am quite happy to have both. I’ve never done a side by side comparison but I should. Earlyn, no shade intended, but did Miss Dior really smell like "sweet boozy fruitcake" when compared to Ma Griffe? What version of Miss Dior was this?

    The openings are certainly similar. One’s appreciation/tolerance for galbanum will determine whether or not you think Ma Griffe has a big green galbanum opening or not. I love galbanum, so to me the opening has a smooth and restrained greeness. I don’t think of Ma Griffe as especially soapy or powdery (aldehydic?). It depends on your reference for soap...and powder. Not Ivory soap to be sure. Yellow Dial was mentioned. I might getting a hint of old fashioned Fels Naptha yellow laundry soap (my grandmother’s favorite and therefore still on my laundry sink) and thus a hint of tallow and coal tar.

    Bavard suggested that Ma Griffe is more floral than Miss Dior. I’m not sure. In both, the floral notes are woven so smoothly into the overall composition that they don’t stand out as individual elements. A key element in both perfumes is, I’ve read, styrall acetate and Chris Bartlett has a great summary of this ingredient here, noting that it makes up a whopping 4% of Ma Griffe’s formula:

    https://pellwall.com/shop/ingredient...allyl-acetate/

    The biggest difference between Ma Griffe and Miss Dior is the warmth and spiciness that I perceive in Ma Griffe’s base. (Miss Dior dries down to warmth, but a different and much more musky warmth. And the secret ingredient in Miss Dior’s base is old school patchouli) I feel that Ma Griffe has a stronger presence of tonka or benzoin, along with a touch of cinnamon. Ma Griffe feels autumnal, tweedy, in a proper vintage way but (not, thank goodness, in the Yankee Candle way).

    As I’ve noted before, I get no asafoetida in Ma Griffe. I have no idea where that notion came from or why people keep saying there is asafoetida in Ma Griffe, but I notice that neither of you mentioned it. Believe me, if it were there, you’d know.

    I’ll end my rambling on Ma Griffe with two outside references. Here is a fascinating comparison of Vol de Nuit, Ma Griffe, Shocking, and Miss Dior (with Tabu, Vent Vert, and Crepe de Chine thrown in for fun) posted by the inimitable Octavian Coifan on his long lost blog:

    Vol de Nuit was also an important moment in the history of the perfumery. It took the chypre accord to a next level with at least 3 important modifications - galbanum, orris (Iralia) and a sweet oriental base. While many see it as an Oriental I see it more as a chypre because it's more "corsé" than sweet vanillic. In 1935 a new important perfume was launched - Shocking by Schiaparelli...Shocking was done at Roure under the guidance of Jean Carles (but not by him). Shocking took Vol de Nuit idea in a new direction. It developed an important floral green heart (with rose-lily of the valley-gardenia) and added an animalic honey drydown with civet (and some notes already present in Tabu by Dana from 1931). Above all that stand a glorious aldehydic bouquet with a green gardenia note (acetate stiralyl) an idea that have already been used in a previous great success - Crêpe de Chine (Millot 1925). Then the war came and right after two other original creations appeared from the same Roure - the floral Vent Vert from Balmain (with galbanum overdose and a strong rose-muguet heart) and Ma Griffe from Carven (with a strong aldehydic and green gardenia note). It didn't take longer and a marvelous creation appeared - Miss Dior a green chypre but also an animalic chypre.

    And finally here is a lovely tribute to Madame Carven, Carmen de Tomasso, who passed away recently, still beautiful and elegant at 105.

    https://boisdejasmin.com/2015/06/mad...ma-griffe.html

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    did Miss Dior really smell like "sweet boozy fruitcake" when compared to Ma Griffe? What version of Miss Dior was this?
    I'm guessing a parfum, it's a little sweeter. Just a guess. I think the description captures some of the complexity of Miss Dior.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I love galbanum, so to me the opening has a smooth and restrained greenness.
    Same for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I don’t think of Ma Griffe as especially soapy or powdery (aldehydic?).
    The soapy effect is early in the fragrance for me. The powder is more in the mid. I think it's from flowers. The powder is how I think of the flowers.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Bavard suggested that Ma Griffe is more floral than Miss Dior. I’m not sure.
    I was thinking it's more of a floral fragrance - more of a straightforward floral - and that Miss Dior is a more complex fragrance.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    The biggest difference between Ma Griffe and Miss Dior is the warmth and spiciness that I perceive in Ma Griffe’s base. (Miss Dior dries down to warmth, but a different and much more musky warmth. And the secret ingredient in Miss Dior’s base is old school patchouli) I feel that Ma Griffe has a stronger presence of tonka or benzoin, along with a touch of cinnamon. Ma Griffe feels autumnal, tweedy, in a proper vintage way but (not, thank goodness, in the Yankee Candle way).
    I got cinnamon in the base. Lovely base note.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I’ll end my rambling on Ma Griffe with two outside references. Here is a fascinating comparison of Vol de Nuit, Ma Griffe, Shocking, and Miss Dior (with Tabu, Vent Vert, and Crepe de Chine thrown in for fun) posted by the inimitable Octavian Coifan on his long lost blog:

    It didn't take longer and a marvelous creation appeared - Miss Dior a green chypre but also an animalic chypre.
    That's nice about Miss Dior.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Millot Crepe de Chine is a great fragrance. I'm not familiar with Chinese crepes, but this is like a mix of some masculine greats, Barbasol shaving cream, to name one, and Guerlain Derby.

    The opening of this really had me in its grips, and I was looking at listings on eBay. As the top fades and it goes into the mid, I feel like I can imagine life without a couple bottles of this, but it does suit my style.

    Top Notes
    Neroli, Italian bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Egyptian basil, Oil of peru, Aldehydes
    Heart Notes
    Gardenia, Ylang ylang, Carnation, Lilac, Rose oil, Romanian chamomille, Egyptian jasmine
    Base notesi
    Sandalwood, East indian musk, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Vetiver, Benzoin, Labdanum, Indonesian patchouli
    I put the notes listed in common with Derby in bold.
    Last edited by Bavard; 28th October 2019 at 01:00 AM.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm not familiar with Chinese crepes…
    "Crêpe de Chine" is a reference to fabric, not food. https://www.britannica.com/topic/crepe-de-Chine
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  22. #52

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    The soapy effect is early in the fragrance for me. The powder is more in the mid. I think it's from flowers. The powder is how I think of the flowers.
    Same for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Earlyn, no shade intended, but did Miss Dior really smell like "sweet boozy fruitcake" when compared to Ma Griffe? What version of Miss Dior was this?
    You are as surpised as I was. This was Miss Dior edt in a houndstooth, and I actually had to go back and look at the label to make sure I had applied Miss Dior and not something else. This was side by side as they developed. I wasn't prepared for the Dior to smell as sweet as I had not experienced it that way in the past, but directly against the Ma Griffe that is what my nose was sensing. The booziness may better be expressed by the alcohol I associate with candied fruit or maybe rum cake, and yes, I get lots of sweetness (from whatever combo of florals and base ingredients - neroli, amber, labdanum ) and nuts - walnuts. Sometimes sandalwood smells of walnuts to me, hence the whole sweet/zest fruitcake with nuts.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I don’t think of Ma Griffe as especially soapy or powdery (aldehydic?). It depends on your reference for soap...and powder. Not Ivory soap to be sure. Yellow Dial was mentioned. I might getting a hint of old fashioned Fels Naptha yellow laundry soap (my grandmother’s favorite and therefore still on my laundry sink) and thus a hint of tallow and coal tar.
    The coal tar you mention sparked a memory. I had noted a persistent subtle stink (although not off-putting) in the body of Ma Griffe and I can see it as similar to the coal tar in the Neutrogena dandruff shampoo my dad would use occasionally. As far as the soap goes - My mother would unwrap bars of Ivory and before use would place them in the furnace closet for a few months till they got hard and "toasted", which would make my Ivory reference rather dry and baked.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Ma Griffe feels autumnal, tweedy, in a proper vintage way but (not, thank goodness, in the Yankee Candle way).
    Autumnal, tweedy - exactly.


    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I’ve read, styrall acetate and Chris Bartlett has a great summary of this ingredient here, noting that it makes up a whopping 4% of Ma Griffe’s formula:
    https://pellwall.com/shop/ingredient...allyl-acetate/
    I checked this out and Dry, fresh, fruity, gardenia, green, leafy, metallic, musty, rhubarb are the effects listed for styrallyl-acetate. Looks like a magical voodoo ingredient expressing itself in some turning point fragrances. Shocking might be a good comparison of the green gardenia. Seems all roads lead to Miss Dior
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Tomorrow, we're sampling Moschino Pour Homme edt. I'm usually impressed with it, so I'm looking forward to it. I theorize/guess that mace is the secret ingredient.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Tomorrow, we're sampling Moschino Pour Homme edt. I'm usually impressed with it, so I'm looking forward to it. I theorize/guess that mace is the secret ingredient.
    I’m down. I jumped on a FB after sampling from a mini, and I think I’ll crack the big’un for the occasion.
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  25. #55

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I found significant differences between the EDC and Parfum concentration, the EDC having more emphasis on the woods and leather making it bit more darker IMO. The parfum concentration has a stronger presence of oakmoss with refreshing notes of citrus, galbanum and aldehydes. Green, aromatic, floral. My preference is the parfum concentration.
    Thanks for sharing your notes. I’ve had the Crepe de Chine edc and parfum side by side and think I’m smelling what you are describing in your comparisons. You suggested leather in the edc and I’ve had a hard time sensing leather in any fragrance I’ve tried even when listed as a note, so I went back and tried again and I see what you are talking about. Seems like tooling leather to me, not seat or glove leather, but belt and saddle - a smell I know because my sister and I sometimes chewed on our probably toxic belts! I wonder what materials are combining to make that effect.

    I like both parfum and edc. The edc doesn’t stick around for long time though.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Xi'a Xi'ang by Revlon

  26. #56
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Here's a good reference for Crepe de Chine fabric...

    IMG_3317.jpg

    I'm still on Crepe de Chine, which I will wear to today to work. Any Harlowesque glamour and slinkiness will be purely imaginary.

  27. #57
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I've never done a side by side comparison but I should. Earlyn, no shade intended, but did Miss Dior really smell like "sweet boozy fruitcake" when compared to Ma Griffe? What version of Miss Dior was this?
    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    You are as surpised as I was. This was Miss Dior edt in a houndstooth, and I actually had to go back and look at the label to make sure I had applied Miss Dior and not something else. This was side by side as they developed. I wasn't prepared for the Dior to smell as sweet as I had not experienced it that way in the past, but directly against the Ma Griffe that is what my nose was sensing. The booziness may better be expressed by the alcohol I associate with candied fruit or maybe rum cake, and yes, I get lots of sweetness (from whatever combo of florals and base ingredients - neroli, amber, labdanum ) and nuts - walnuts. Sometimes sandalwood smells of walnuts to me, hence the whole sweet/zest fruitcake with nuts.
    You intrigue me, Earlyn. Side-by-side tests of similar perfumes will bring often out hidden differences. I need to do a side-by-side of Miss Dior and Ma Griffe to see what I pick up through the contrast.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Today's new sample is Moschino Pour Homme. Crepe de Chine is still in the mix as well.

    DA978E26-123A-43D2-B6A9-3FAE757ECF25.jpg

    I'm a big fan of this. It's from 1990, but smells like an older style.

    The mystery with Moschino Pour Homme is trying to unravel how it smells so amazing. Today, I'm thinking it's because of the woods they used. This is some luxurious wood. I want wooden furniture that pulses this smell.

    Some people call this a leather. It doesn't necessarily come across that way to me.

    The heart note is carnation. I would call it a carnation fragrance if I needed to be reductive. Here is the notes list from the directory:

    Lavender, Mace, Bergamot, Rosemary
    Carnation
    Leather, Amber, Moss, Styrax

    This fragrance can give me a nagging feeling that I should be remembering where I know it from. I think I smelled someone wearing something like this when I was younger. That's the best I can do. In the memory, though, to make it extra confusing, it's usually me who's wearing it.

    This only has positive reviews. Here's the one from SirSlarty, from May 2009, a Basenoter with 1,910 reviews:

    Leathery moss! This is the end-all of "end-alls" of the masculine leather chypre family. It isn't as strong as other predecessors in the family but it is the most stable. It's there, stays there and never waivers too far from its initial scent of lavender, oakmoss and leather and I find the bergamot really bitter here. Smokey and herbal at times, the sillage is average. The mace note listed gave me some watery eyes but do not let that discourage you from enjoying a solid men's fragrance. I had the pleasure of sampling quite a few discontinued fragrances from the 80's and 90's and by far this is my favorite.

  29. #59
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Today's new sample is Moschino Pour Homme.

    I'm a big fan of this. It's from 1990, but smells like an older style.

    The mystery with Moschino Pour Homme is trying to unravel how it smells so amazing
    Your description makes me want to try Moschino Pour Homme, Bavard. I wonder how it relates to the 1987 Moschino for women, which I like very much in the vintage bottle I have. The notes for that here are:

    Galbanum, Tagete, Freesia, Honeysuckle
    Gardenia, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Nutmeg, Clove, Pepper, Sandalwood, Patchouli
    Amber, Musk, Vanilla

    I find that I am never disappointed with Italian designer vintages from the 1980's-90's--lots of style and quality.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Your description makes me want to try Moschino Pour Homme, Bavard. I wonder how it relates to the 1987 Moschino for women, which I like very much in the vintage bottle I have. The notes for that here are:

    Galbanum, Tagete, Freesia, Honeysuckle
    Gardenia, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Nutmeg, Clove, Pepper, Sandalwood, Patchouli
    Amber, Musk, Vanilla

    I find that I am never disappointed with Italian designer vintages from the 1980's-90's--lots of style and quality.
    Brilliant! I can send you a sample. Let me know if there's anything else you want to try.

    Moschino is not on my radar at all, otherwise. I'm guessing the "for women" fragrance from around the same time would be something good.

    I discovered Moschino Pour Homme through sample passes with Purecaramel and Epapsiou - I think this one came from Epapsiou. Epapsiou has a huge collection built in the PStoller buying style - consider the title of his thread: Vintage Fragrances I bought today - people only buying one vintage fragrance at a time are arguably off-topic.




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