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  1. #241
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    It would be great if people could do a summary post at the end with all their thumbs up, down, and neutrals for the samples. Some of the samples I sent I am only now having a very studied wear of, and placing them in context with other fragrance comparisons suggested by others is great.
    I can do that. I've been fairly straight on likes, neutrals, and dislikes up to now.

    For a big pass like this, my memory limitations come into play, so I have to start summarizing midway.

    The mention of Amazone, again, for example. That was some good stuff. That's in the favorites list - with Crepe de Chine, Ysatis, and Habanita.

    Today's sample, Givenchy Organza, and the last Coty, L'Aimant, were similarly good, but I have bottles of other things that I feel are similar.

  2. #242

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Organza Indécence is a story of a modern fragrance. Futuristic, even.

    This is way too harsh for me.

    A thumbs down, hiding in plain sight with the name Indecency.

    At best, a modern amber. More likely, an early WAC misstep, a 1999 release according to the Basenotes directory. A shocker.
    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Agreed - this is not a classic in any way - not in style, material, or performance.

    It is less woody than sweet to me.
    It is dark and sweet, and slightly smoky - like a dessert perfume.
    I don't generally tend towards these types of perfumes at all, but this one is some fun.
    The amber in the base is very, very thick and more wood is there - only a small amount of this can be worn or it will be oppressive.

    This is like the idea of a glass of port next to a wood fire with roasting chestnuts.
    Sure, the port is only a couple years old instead of 30, the fireplace is gas, and the chestnuts are in the oven.
    The slightly itchy wood smoke is coming from some burnt matches in an ashtray.
    I'm not fooled, but still, I am glad I have this perfume, especially because I will never need any more than the few milliliters that I have left.
    I know there will be occasions when I want to wear it. Not to go out that is for sure, but to stay home on the couch with a very teeny dab of it on.
    I think of this perfume like I think of stage lighting. It requires some suspension of disbelief, and an uncomfortable chair.
    Edit - I am immediately adding that I think this reads as more positive than I'd like, I do find it interesting but also uncomfortable and wish for a similar idea in a better fragrance.

    Bavard, I'll take your educational notes and mark this one as a modern amber with all that implies. I hope I am beginning to recognize the WACs that have been discussed in recent posts.
    I went ahead and sampled Organza Indecence, with some trepidation.

    And, I don't hate it...but yes, this is the very definition of WAC. When I think of WAC, this pretty much what's in my head, with various levels of sweetness and incidental surrounding notes, tweaked to be "masculine" or "feminine".

    Once you've smelled a few dozen of these, it's sort of like watching one of those formula shows on HGTV, like House Hunters. You can almost recite the damn thing verbatim, even though the people and the houses are different. But those shows, like these perfumes, are really popular and cheap to produce, and lots of people (such as my wife) find them to pleasant and comforting as mindless background noise, while working or doing chores.

    The basic woody-amber smell isn't inherently bad - and in fact there was a time (like, when Organza Indecence came out) when they were fairly novel, especially in a feminine release. But with a couple of decades of hindsight and increasingly derivative versions of the theme, it became tiresome, then annoying, then public enemy #1. But honestly, I think this is a fairly nice, early representation of the genre. Putting myself in the shoes of someone who just wants something that smells nice and performs well...sure, this is that.

    Anyway, I realize this is more a review of WAC in general than the scent in question...but that's kind of the point. To Earlyn's point, sweetness (pick a sweet accord, any sweet accord) plus a "slightly itchy wood smoke coming from some burnt matches" is pretty much what WAC is.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 19th November 2019 at 11:54 PM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  3. #243
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I went ahead and sampled Organza Indecence, with some trepidation.

    And honestly, I don't hate it...but yes, this is the very definition of WAC. When I think of WAC, this pretty much what's in my head, with various levels of sweetness and incidental surrounding notes, tweaked to be "masculine" or "feminine".

    Once you've smelled a few dozen of these, it's sort of like watching one of those formula shows of HGTV, like House Hunters. You can almost recite the damn thing verbatim, even though the people and the houses are different. But those shows, like these perfumes, are really popular and cheap to produce, and lots of people (such as my wife) find them to pleasant and comforting as mindless background noise, while working or doing chores.

    The basic woody-amber smell isn't inherently bad - and in fact there was a time (like, when Organza Indecence came out) that they were fairly novel, especially in a feminine release. But with a couple of decades of hindsight and increasingly derivative versions of the theme, it became tiresome, then annoying, then public enemy #1. But honestly, I think this is a fairly nice, early representation of the genre. Putting myself in the shoes of someone who just wants something that smells nice and performs well...sure, this is that.

    Anyway, I realize this is more a review of WAC in general than the scent in question...but that's kind of the point. To Earlyn's point, sweetness (pick a sweet accord, any sweet accord) plus a "slightly itchy wood smoke coming from some burnt matches" is pretty much what WAC is.
    It could have the makings of a cult classic. I haven't disliked something this much since Kouros.

  4. #244

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I went ahead and sampled Organza Indecence, with some trepidation.

    And honestly, I don't hate it...but yes, this is the very definition of WAC. When I think of WAC, this pretty much what's in my head, with various levels of sweetness and incidental surrounding notes, tweaked to be "masculine" or "feminine".

    Once you've smelled a few dozen of these, it's sort of like watching one of those formula shows of HGTV, like House Hunters. You can almost recite the damn thing verbatim, even though the people and the houses are different. But those shows, like these perfumes, are really popular and cheap to produce, and lots of people (such as my wife) find them to pleasant and comforting as mindless background noise, while working or doing chores.

    The basic woody-amber smell isn't inherently bad - and in fact there was a time (like, when Organza Indecence came out) that they were fairly novel, especially in a feminine release. But with a couple of decades of hindsight and increasingly derivative versions of the theme, it became tiresome, then annoying, then public enemy #1. But honestly, I think this is a fairly nice, early representation of the genre. Putting myself in the shoes of someone who just wants something that smells nice and performs well...sure, this is that.

    Anyway, I realize this is more a review of WAC in general than the scent in question...but that's kind of the point. To Earlyn's point, sweetness (pick a sweet accord, any sweet accord) plus a "slightly itchy wood smoke coming from some burnt matches" is pretty much what WAC is.
    Thanks for the WAC and general comments. It sounds like you and Bavard might agree that this is a good early example (modern WACy amber) even if your thumbs might not be pointing in the same direction. This will be a good reference for me. I really haven't smelled a lot of stuff like this.

    I definitely agree there might be some times when this might hit the spot - as background noise as you say, but only if it isn't splashed around thoughtlessly. Something about these chemicals is sort of wicked and UNforgettable. I woke with a sweet/wood/smoke olfactory memory burned into my sinuses. There was no residual left on my skin yet the smell picture persisted inside my head. Part of me craved some hair of the dog and another part felt nauseous at the thought - like a hangover. Evidently I abused the stuff.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Tocade by Rochas

  5. #245

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Thanks for the WAC and general comments. It sounds like you and Bavard might agree that this is a good early example (modern WACy amber) even if your thumbs might not be pointing in the same direction. This will be a good reference for me. I really haven't smelled a lot of stuff like this.
    I'd say the final thumb is pointing mildly upward, viewing the scent in context. What I find appealing about it is the balance of sweetness of that smoked woodiness. It's not too syrupy and the woody tone is moderated to not be overly scratchy, as some of these things can be (I sense this is where Bavard will disagree). And I like the warm spices used here, dry and dusty.

    I used a very, very light application and could smell it clearly all day, and enjoyed it that way...I can imagine how an aggressive dosing might sear itself into your olfactory nerves!

    A few other reference points on the masculine side are Halston Man Amber, Givenchy Gentlemen Only, and D&G The One Gentleman, all of which occurred at peak WAC, and may in fact be the same scent.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  6. #246

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    It could have the makings of a cult classic. I haven't disliked something this much since Kouros.
    I didn’t know Kouros didn’t agree with you! I love it, but it took awhile.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  7. #247
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Re: Amazone, EDT & Parfum

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Jules had a similar response to Amazone.
    After testing it, I thought, "How have I overlooked this excellent green-y chypre?" I wore the parfum (4 dabs) and Earlyn's EDT on one arm yesterday, and I enjoyed experiencing Amazone all day. In fact, I can still smell traces of it both versions this morning. I would say the parfum and EDT are essentially the same composition, but the parfum feels fuller and more intense upon application, and lasts longer. Like Earlyn, it reminds me Givenchy III, but Givenchy III has slightly more floral sweetness in its heart and Scherrer by Scherrer.

    Re: WAC

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    When I think of WAC, this pretty much what's in my head, with various levels of sweetness and incidental surrounding notes, tweaked to be "masculine" or "feminine"....The basic woody-amber smell isn't inherently bad - and in fact there was a time (like, when Organza Indecence came out) when they were fairly novel, especially in a feminine release. But with a couple of decades of hindsight and increasingly derivative versions of the theme, it became tiresome, then annoying, then public enemy #1.....
    So true! Intense woody aromachemicals--Iso E Super, Ambroxan, Cashmeran, Timbersilk (fill in the blank)--can work very well when used sparingly and in combination with other good ingredients. Too many fragrances rely on them, but it's not surprising since they offer immediate impact and...ugh! PERFORMANCE!!!

    Speaking strictly of myself, I used to enjoy certain WAC-heavy scents but now it seems that my nose (and my brain) latch on to these ingredients to the exclusion of anything else and the perfumes that contain them in large quanities can become irritating to wear. I don't enjoy smelling these industrial woody notes into the next day, and I don't like perfume to linger on my clothing. A good example is Perles de Lalique (2006). I can't seem to get rid of because the bottle is so pretty but I can't wear it anymore. I still have my notes on it from 2014, when I wrote about how much I was enjoying it and described its "peppery opening, rose, sweet incense, and patchouli."

    Edit to add: Upon re-reading this, I realized how inconsistent it might seem to talk about the pleasant traces of Amazone while deriding the strong performance of WACs. There IS a difference, but I'm not sure how to describe it yet. Lingering vintage perfume traces on my skin are fairly subtle and don't annoy me; while modern WAC residues can seem almost as strong the next day as the first. What do y'all think?
    Currently wearing: Amarige by Givenchy

  8. #248
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Edit to add: Upon re-reading this, I realized how inconsistent it might seem to talk about the pleasant traces of Amazone while deriding the strong performance of WACs. There IS a difference, but I'm not sure how to describe it yet. Lingering vintage perfume traces on my skin are fairly subtle and don't annoy me; while modern WAC residues can seem almost as strong the next day as the first. What do y'all think?
    I think it boils down to the idea that it's nice when a good smell lasts, and not so nice when a bad smell lasts. It's no fun when a perfume is causing more harm than good. I wasn't born disliking harsh woody aroma chemicals - it took exposure to them. Now, I'm sensitive to them, and really prefer to avoid anything remotely in that style. For the moment, I still try samples on skin even if I suspect they could be WAC nightmares, but then I complain about them and wash them off.

  9. #249
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    726F591A-C3E6-4D19-975B-92808BB11140.jpg

    Gengis Khan edt today. This and Mouchoir de Monsieur were surprise bonus samples, fragrances I'm sampling myself. The other 10 are bottles I have backed up.

    This fragrance is a little of everything: sort of old school, but in a modern niche-y way. It smells like a few other things: Salvador Dali Pour Homme, Aramis Havana, maybe Montana Parfum d'Homme. It's part fougere, but maybe more of a light oriental. It's more oriental than Pour Monsieur Concentree, by a distance, and I think I've seen that described as oriental.

    I might release my bottle to LiveJazz who can appreciate this much more than I can. There's a light dash of laundry musk in this that just isn't for me.

    This was a 1990 release. It smells at least that modern to me. It smells like an older style of fragrance that has curious modern accents. It's like a niche version of Aramis Havana.

    We had a thread about this one that's not too old to add to, Earlyn, if you want to post thoughts in both places:

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/467...an-sample-pass

    Although, on second thought, that thread seems to be acting up. To see the early posts I have to make my settings show the oldest post first. To see the most recent posts, I have to make my settings show the newest posts first. Ok to read, but maybe best not to add to the mess.
    Last edited by Bavard; 20th November 2019 at 06:02 PM.

  10. #250

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Whoops, I'm out of sync here as I thought the original Organza was up, and I don't have any.

    So, I'm catching up with Shocking.

    It smells very familiar, and very in tune with other big floral oriental cyphres of its day. A huge, multifaceted scent that will require several wearings to get my arms around, I think. High level, it resembles many of its temporal peers with kaleidoscopic florals, aldehydes, and a moderate clovey spice/oriental side. There's also a note that resembles Indian sandalwood, and specifically this soap. Not a buttery sandalwood at all...soapy, intense, bracing.

    It's set apart with a particularly intense and dark honey/musk/civet foundation, which provides an deeply satisfying, rumbling sub-bass kind of feel underneath the impressive but otherwise fairly typical note set.

    I think Auphorie Mayura was channeling this kind of composition, but it perhaps pushed the animal bits a little too far, making it feel somewhat out of proportion. This gets it totally right...beautiful stuff. Glad I could sample it.

    ~~

    Regarding Genghis Khan, I'll re-post what I wrote in the pass, and add that since this wearing, I've come to detect more of the herbal aspects of this one, and where it first struck me mainly as a spiced woody oriental with a fougere undertone, now I see those two qualities as roughly equal.

    The spice opening in Genghis is clear, but feels very smooth, rounded, dark. It's primarily a nutmeg/clove accord, but it's so plush and velvety that it reminds me of the texture and "mouthfeel" of like a dark chocolate or something. There's a creamy/woody/patchouli backbone that augments the effect. I actually get more of a parallel to Jacomo de Jacomo (less smoky, but similarly smooth spices) or Cacharel Pour Homme (creamy nutmeg). Love the opening and heart.

    For some reason, I was expecting something a bit more aggressive and dry in its spice presentation, perhaps because of all these references to Montana, which I find rather harsh and overly dry, and Havana, which starts aggressively chaotic (in a fun way!) and takes time to settle in. Or maybe the name had me expecting something more threatening; who knows! But it's immediately friendly, welcoming, and just a touch formal.

    The base is less plush but maintains the excellent quality standard. To me it's a fairly typical resin/wood/spice accord, with a slight creamy/powdery fougere undertone. A little leftover spice. Not very sweet. It strikes me as quite natural, and something that would project a "friendly/capable" aura, softly and effortlessly. Not the most exciting accord, but immensely enjoyable and easy to live in.

    Bottom line: This would make an excellent, tasteful signature scent, and I see why hednic has been so loyal to it as a go-to despite familiarity with (and ownership of) many thousands of others.

    [Pulled from another post in the thread] If I may indulge in reference mania...Havana meets Cacharel Pour L'Homme meets Jacomo meets HdP 1899 Hemingway meets Heritage.


    Happy to swap for it if you're open, Bavard! It would make a wonderful winter "easy grab" or work/formal scent.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  11. #251
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Whoops, I'm out of sync here as I thought the original Organza was up, and I don't have any.

    So, I'm catching up with Shocking.

    It smells very familiar, and very in tune with other big floral oriental cyphres of its day. A huge, multifaceted scent that will require several wearings to get my arms around, I think. High level, it resembles many of its temporal peers with kaleidoscopic florals, aldehydes, and a moderate clovey spice/oriental side. There's also a note that resembles Indian sandalwood, and specifically this soap. Not a buttery sandalwood at all...soapy, intense, bracing.

    It's set apart with a particularly intense and dark honey/musk/civet foundation, which provides an deeply satisfying, rumbling sub-bass kind of feel underneath the impressive but otherwise fairly typical note set.
    I think Auphorie Mayura was channeling this kind of composition, but it perhaps pushed the animal bits a little too far, making it feel somewhat out of proportion. This gets it totally right...beautiful stuff. Glad I could sample it.
    It has Bal-a-Versailles levels of civet in the base.

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post

    Happy to swap for it if you're open, Bavard! It would make a wonderful winter "easy grab" or work/formal scent.
    Did I see Amazone on your swap list?

  12. #252

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    It has Bal-a-Versailles levels of civet in the base.
    Yes, but to me BaV is way further on the oriental side, extremely powdery and sweet. It does not agree with me at all, at least in parfum concentration. I have some EdC around waiting to me sampled, so that may be more in tune with what I smell in Shocking.

    Did I see Amazone on your swap list?
    Yes, it's a 100ml splash that's ~60% full. Could mix and match with other items to make it closer to equal, or I could throw in some samples. Will PM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  13. #253

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Whoops, I'm out of sync here as I thought the original Organza was up, and I don't have any.
    I'm sorry I didn't send this one to you. Thought I had. May have leapt out of the box along with your Coty Chypre sample I found on my floor. Will get you some in next batch.
    I'm a little slow and trying Organza this AM and the Genghis Khan later today.


    Organza -
    Organza does not feel related to Organza Indecence. It is a not so loud greenish sweet floral. The bouquet is small compared to Ysatis and Amarige. The florals are less varied than Ysatis and the sweetness is fuzzy and not the drippy fruited florals of Amarige. I get some laundry freshness in the middle as Bavard mentioned and am also wondering if others get a little bit of anise or fresh fennel bulb. I have smelled this in other perfumes that are said to have civet, but there are no animalics listed for this one. Can someone tell me if civet ever smells like that or if I am probably getting that smell from something else? There is a parfum coming up on our sample list that revealed a very heavy dose of this in the base and I am wondering what it was and if it will do it again.

    Organza is a fitting name as this works like a sweet floral veil, and for me it hints at something naughty (not very) underneath. Thumbs up, but in the world of perfumes I've been sampling there are others of equal quality I'd reach for that are more appealing to me and have a similar effect.

    Speaking of civet...

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    So, I'm catching up with Shocking.

    It smells very familiar, and very in tune with other big floral oriental cyphres of its day. A huge, multifaceted scent that will require several wearings to get my arms around, I think. High level, it resembles many of its temporal peers with kaleidoscopic florals, aldehydes, and a moderate clovey spice/oriental side. There's also a note that resembles Indian sandalwood, and specifically this soap. Not a buttery sandalwood at all...soapy, intense, bracing.

    It's set apart with a particularly intense and dark honey/musk/civet foundation, which provides an deeply satisfying, rumbling sub-bass kind of feel underneath the impressive but otherwise fairly typical note set.

    I think Auphorie Mayura was channeling this kind of composition, but it perhaps pushed the animal bits a little too far, making it feel somewhat out of proportion. This gets it totally right...beautiful stuff. Glad I could sample it.
    Like that very accurate "sub-base rumbling" description. Is the soap you linked to one you would recommend?

    Since I am testing Genghis Khan later today, I'll wait to exchange comment on that one. I am very excited about it though because I've tried so many great new masculines as part of this sampling and Genghis Khan has some pretty passionate followers.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Tocade by Rochas

  14. #254
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    That soap is good. Very good. It has a big influence on how I think of the smell of sandalwood.

  15. #255

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    That soap is good. Very good. It has a big influence on how I think of the smell of sandalwood.
    One reviewer on that link said to be careful and get the”Superior” and not the “Export” one, and they said these ones are “Export”. I did a search for the Superior stuff by the same company and it looks like those bars might be round.
    https://www.amazon.com/Mysore-Sandal...=beauty&sr=1-5

    Bavard and/or LiveJazz - Any experience with oval vs. round? I’ve been wanting to order some sandalwood soap so maybe this one is for me.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
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  16. #256

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I'm sorry I didn't send this one to you. Thought I had. May have leapt out of the box along with your Coty Chypre sample I found on my floor. Will get you some in next batch.
    What you sent was totally generous and I had no expectation that everything here was covered...though it sounds like that was your plan! Round 2 swap sounds great either way though - I love swapping.

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    One reviewer on that link said to be careful and get the”Superior” and not the “Export” one, and they said these ones are “Export”. I did a search for the Superior stuff by the same company and it looks like those bars might be round.
    https://www.amazon.com/Mysore-Sandal...=beauty&sr=1-5

    Bavard and/or LiveJazz - Any experience with oval vs. round? I’ve been wanting to order some sandalwood soap so maybe this one is for me.
    Mine were the oval bars, which I guess makes them "Export". I do recall that lots of Amazon reviews at the time stated that the scent had changed pretty significantly to become more "soapy", but I didn't have any prior experience, so I can't compare.

    I can say that the version I had a very intense soapy-wood smell that was more like what I think of as sandalwood incense (like the stuff you'd find at a head shop) and a classic "soap" smell vs the buttery-smooth sandalwood I think of with high end sandalwood fragrances. I think it's just two very different interpretations of the note. I enjoyed the soap - wouldn't say it's my default sandalwood definition, but it helps me recognize this version of the note where it's present. Roger & Gallet Sandalwood also uses this variant.

    As a soap, it's a soapy soap, if that makes sense. Nice lather, but not moisturizing. It will leave you squeaky clean. Kind of like castile in that way. I like it.

    Now I'm interested to smell the round "Superior" soaps...I'm out of the other ones.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  17. #257

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Hurray! Genghis Khan day!
    Dang, I love the fresh masculine top. I get bergamot and drying citrus fruit studded with mulling spice (no cinnamon though). There are some brassy cooling herbs that come up and chill the spice before it warms again with a slightly funky leather - like a sweat soaked saddle after a ride or a work harness. It isn't a billy club of leather but it is tannic, and with the patchouli coming on dark and earthy it smells like skin and sweat and dirt. This is assertive but not aggressive. I was thinking this would be a conquering fragrance I would have to defend myself against but it is quite comfortable, warm, and inviting. The base is weighted more towards dry and peppery, wood and moss, with a little bit of sweetness. The sweetness doesn't get gooey and the dryness doesn't feel desiccated. It's all good and smooth.

    I like the development in this one. It isn't linear, nor simplistic where mostly one note or chord rises and falls with another taking its place. The chords overlap very smoothly influencing the first or last bit of the next one, modifying and hi lighting, multiplying.

    I don't know of the other fragrances mentioned as comparison, but I am enjoying this so much that I'll need to make time for another hit later and see what else I notice.
    Thumbs up for this first wearing.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Tocade by Rochas

  18. #258
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I get quite a bit of lavender at the open of Genghis Khan. The spices are more in the dry down for me.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  19. #259
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    GK.jpg

    I've worn this scent before, but only from a mini with a snap-on plastic cap that doesn't afford the most airtight seal. This FB offers a better take on Hednic's precious Gengis Khan. This is heavy, but not oppressively so, with a prominent rose note emerging after the brief (on me) herb-and-citrus opening, and a bit of dark fruit sweetness that might be from the mix of resin, amber, and frankincense. While this wouldn't rocket up to my top ten if I had one, I can definitely see myself finishing off this bottle over time, and possibly hunting down a backup (at a non-unicorn price). I really like having a lush oriental that doesn't devolve into a cloying gourmand. I don't feel like my fairly well-stocked fragrance cabinet offers much competition in that department. I'm not getting the leather so much, but perhaps I'll pick up more as the dry down progresses. It's certainly not a hardcore leather frag.

    One of the reviews in the BN directory describes it as being like "Lapidus pour Homme, but better," and I get that. Another point of comparison for me, between GK and LpH, would be Salvador Dali pour Homme. I wouldn't be surprised if LpH and SDpH, both from 1987, served as models or inspiration for the 1990 GK. But where I find the pineapple-honey-jasmine of LpH overripe and the grape-y jasmine-muguet of SDpH nearly so, the more resinous herbal-floral profile of GK strikes me as just right. (My LpH was also from a snap-top mini, and thus might not have been the fairest sample, but I was still motivated to get a FB of GK, whereas I passed my LpH mini on to another BNer after one wearing and I haven't looked back.)

    Anyway, a definite thumbs-up from me.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I'm trying Ralph Lauren Safari (1990), not to be confused with Safari for Men (1992).

    I was happy with the opening. It almost has a guilty pleasure feeling to it. I like it. There are nice flower concentrates in it. This is a thumbs up, and I find it interesting, but it can almost feel too simple - an uncomplicated powdery floral. The sweetness smells like natural flowers, and it's nice, but it's somewhat one-dimensional to me. It's nice, and pretty, but it's not getting its hooks into me.

    I think Safari works for something simple, reliable, pretty, slightly modern, powdery, and floral.

    This perfume, like a lot of them, strikes me as being about flowers, woods, and fixatives. The flowers and woods seem great. The fixative(s) are making me think.

    The older perfumes with a dash of civet are more my interest at the moment. This is a great option when someone wants a late 80s / early 90s feminine floral with minimal animalics.

    I think this would be great on someone else - an office mate, for example. I'd be chuffed with someone around me wearing this.

    I think the main flower I'm smelling is rose. As it develops, I get a hint of animalic.

    Fragrances crossing my mind while wearing Safari: 1. Armani, 2/3. Velvet Orchid/Black Orchid.

    It's a nearly-there fragrance for me. Mostly a love, but just a little bit love-hate.
    Last edited by Bavard; 21st November 2019 at 01:46 PM.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm trying Ralph Lauren Safari (1990), not to be confused with Safari for Men (1992).

    I was happy with the opening. It almost has a guilty pleasure feeling to it. I like it. There are nice flower concentrates in it. This is a thumbs up, and I find it interesting, but it can almost feel too simple - an uncomplicated powdery floral. The sweetness smells like natural flowers, and it's nice, but it's somewhat one-dimensional to me. It's nice, and pretty, but it's not getting its hooks into me.

    I think Safari works for something simple, reliable, pretty, slightly modern, powdery, and floral.

    This perfume, like a lot of them, strikes me as being about flowers, woods, and fixatives. The flowers and woods seem great. The fixative(s) are making me think.

    The older perfumes with a dash of civet are more my interest at the moment. This is a great option when someone wants a late 80s / early 90s feminine floral with minimal animalics.

    I think this would be great on someone else - an office mate, for example. I'd be chuffed with someone around me wearing this.

    I think the main flower I'm smelling is rose. As it develops, I get a hint of animalic.

    Fragrances crossing my mind while wearing Safari: 1. Armani, 2/3. Velvet Orchid/Black Orchid.

    It's a nearly-there fragrance for me. Mostly a love, but just a little bit love-hate.
    I find Safari better than Safari for men. A good chypre. I can see the relation to Armani.

    Do not find it similar to TF orchids. But then I never liked that heavy tuberose accord (which is being passed off as orchid ) and is becoming popular (Twily has it too and that is its undoing).
    IIRC there was a vintage that used this accord really well. It was my SOTD a few days ago (Maxims de Paris perhaps?). Anywhoo the point is TF fucked it up and became popular and now everyone is using it much to my chagrin
    /rant
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    Currently wearing: Bellodgia by Caron

  22. #262
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    This is where I make my perennial brag about my 1990 Safari bottle, because I think it's so cool and unusual. It's one of only two EDCs I own that has a crystal stopper in its neck, like a parfum bottle. The other one I have like that is a vintage bottle of Dune.

    Personally, Safari reminds me of Givenchy III, but with a more floral heart and a warmer base. I love the way the galbanum blast balances out the florals. I actually think of it more as a green chypre than a floral one, partly because it's so dry.

    I usually find Ralph Lauren's neo-colonialism aesthetic laughable, but in this case I think the name is fairly appropriate for the scent. (I also think the EDC is superior to the EDT.)




    Buying tip: pretty frequently you see vintage gift sets of Safari show up on eBay and Etsy, with lotion, shower gel, powder. All the bath products are excellent, with enough power to scent you thoroughly, even without adding any EDT or cologne.
    This is a perfume that fires its entire staff on Christmas Eve.... This is a perfume that backs dictators and arms rogue nations at a profit. This is a perfume on trial in absentia for crimes against humanity. This perfume hasn't just violated the Clean Air Act-- it's condemned under the Geneva Protocol for its use of chemical warfare.
    --Perfumieren on Panthère de Cartier Original Parfum (Cartier)

  23. #263

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm trying Ralph Lauren Safari (1990), not to be confused with Safari for Men (1992).

    I was happy with the opening. It almost has a guilty pleasure feeling to it. I like it. There are nice flower concentrates in it. This is a thumbs up, and I find it interesting, but it can almost feel too simple - an uncomplicated powdery floral. The sweetness smells like natural flowers, and it's nice, but it's somewhat one-dimensional to me. It's nice, and pretty, but it's not getting its hooks into me.

    I think Safari works for something simple, reliable, pretty, slightly modern, powdery, and floral.

    This perfume, like a lot of them, strikes me as being about flowers, woods, and fixatives. The flowers and woods seem great. The fixative(s) are making me think.

    The older perfumes with a dash of civet are more my interest at the moment. This is a great option when someone wants a late 80s / early 90s feminine floral with minimal animalics.

    I think this would be great on someone else - an office mate, for example. I'd be chuffed with someone around me wearing this.

    I think the main flower I'm smelling is rose. As it develops, I get a hint of animalic.
    Agree with pretty much all of this.

    I think Safari is connected to some memory that I can't specifically recall. But it immediately smelled extremely familiar and...womanly.

    Saying that is out of character for me, as I'm almost always comfortable wearing feminine marketed scents and am a big proponent of fragrances having no inherent gender. Maybe I had a teacher who wore this heavily, or a relative. It came out around the time I would have started to notice and remember things like scents on people. Was this very popular when released? I totally feel like it's wearing me, or more accurately like I'm in the presence of an invisible woman wearing it.

    ...I think it was a teacher. Maybe Ms. Mayo, 1st grade; it would have suited her. This is a strange experience.

    Getting into the scent itself...going into this blind, my first thought was that this absolutely does not match the masculine Safari in any way. That's a spare, dry, spicy, herbal/aromatic fougere (one of the best IMO; I have it backed up). This smells trite to me. I don't get much if any galbanum, and the aldehydes are subdued. I can't really pick up specifics here - it's a highly polished sweet floral accord that's blended to the point where it's an entity separate from its component parts. There is definitely a powerful synthetic layer at play here - and it projects. It's a soft accord, but also bright and very intense. It's a huge, pretty, fluffy, powdery, ambery floral cloud.

    Edit: I'll give it a middle thumb, bordering on down. Just not my thing at all.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 21st November 2019 at 06:07 PM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  24. #264
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I don't get much if any galbanum, and the aldehydes are subdued. I can't really pick up specifics here - it's a highly polished sweet floral accord that's blended to the point where it's an entity separate from its component parts. There is definitely a powerful synthetic layer at play here - it definitely projects. It's a soft accord, but also bright and very intense. It's a huge, pretty, fluffy, powdery, ambery floral cloud.
    This doesn't sound like any Safari I know. What vintage and concentration are y'all sniffing?
    This is a perfume that fires its entire staff on Christmas Eve.... This is a perfume that backs dictators and arms rogue nations at a profit. This is a perfume on trial in absentia for crimes against humanity. This perfume hasn't just violated the Clean Air Act-- it's condemned under the Geneva Protocol for its use of chemical warfare.
    --Perfumieren on Panthère de Cartier Original Parfum (Cartier)

  25. #265

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by cook.bot View Post
    this doesn't sound like any safari i know. What vintage and concentration are y'all sniffing?
    edc 1990.

    Edit: Yes, I noticed that your comments are very different from I'm smelling. Weird...maybe Bavard and I are sensitive to something in it? The fixatives he mentioned?
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  26. #266
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    edc 1990.
    That's exactly what I own. So, I guess.... different strokes!

    I'm particularly surprised because your taste and mine in greens are usually pretty aligned, LJ.
    This is a perfume that fires its entire staff on Christmas Eve.... This is a perfume that backs dictators and arms rogue nations at a profit. This is a perfume on trial in absentia for crimes against humanity. This perfume hasn't just violated the Clean Air Act-- it's condemned under the Geneva Protocol for its use of chemical warfare.
    --Perfumieren on Panthère de Cartier Original Parfum (Cartier)

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Yes, cologne, from around 1990.

    This does seem to match the Ralph Lauren style.

    I love their heavy-weight sueded cotton fabrics, but the shirts get ruined with the Polo logo.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Yes, cologne, from around 1990.

    This does seem to match the Ralph Lauren style.

    I love their heavy-weight sueded cotton fabrics, but the shirts get ruined with the Polo logo.
    I agree prominent logos ruin clothing and I refuse to wear them. Same thing with DKNY: I love the cut, texture, and color of many but No Can Do on the logos.
    Note to self: Choose being kind over being right, and you’ll be right every time.
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Trilby Lark View Post
    I agree prominent logos ruin clothing and I refuse to wear them. Same thing with DKNY: I love the cut, texture, and color of many but No Can Do on the logos.
    I agree. I try to do that with shoes too though that is not easy with sneakers.
    I do not want to be an advertisement when I wear clothes
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Bellodgia by Caron

  30. #270

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I’ve been wearing Safari today and am pretty happy about it. There’s a range of comments here but in each I can see parts of what I experience with the fragrance.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm trying Ralph Lauren Safari (1990), not to be confused with Safari for Men (1992).

    I was happy with the opening. It almost has a guilty pleasure feeling to it. I like it. There are nice flower concentrates in it. This is a thumbs up, and I find it interesting, but it can almost feel too simple - an uncomplicated powdery floral. The sweetness smells like natural flowers, and it's nice, but it's somewhat one-dimensional to me. It's nice, and pretty, but it's not getting its hooks into me.

    I think Safari works for something simple, reliable, pretty, slightly modern, powdery, and floral.

    This perfume, like a lot of them, strikes me as being about flowers, woods, and fixatives. The flowers and woods seem great. The fixative(s) are making me think.

    The older perfumes with a dash of civet are more my interest at the moment. This is a great option when someone wants a late 80s / early 90s feminine floral with minimal animalics.

    I think this would be great on someone else - an office mate, for example. I'd be chuffed with someone around me wearing this.

    I think the main flower I'm smelling is rose. As it develops, I get a hint of animalic.

    Fragrances crossing my mind while wearing Safari: 1. Armani, 2/3. Velvet Orchid/Black Orchid.

    It's a nearly-there fragrance for me. Mostly a love, but just a little bit love-hate.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    This is where I make my perennial brag about my 1990 Safari bottle, because I think it's so cool and unusual. It's one of only two EDCs I own that has a crystal stopper in its neck, like a parfum bottle. The other one I have like that is a vintage bottle of Dune.

    Personally, Safari reminds me of Givenchy III, but with a more floral heart and a warmer base. I love the way the galbanum blast balances out the florals. I actually think of it more as a green chypre than a floral one, partly because it's so dry.

    I usually find Ralph Lauren's neo-colonialism aesthetic laughable, but in this case I think the name is fairly appropriate for the scent. (I also think the EDC is superior to the EDT.)

    Buying tip: pretty frequently you see vintage gift sets of Safari show up on eBay and Etsy, with lotion, shower gel, powder. All the bath products are excellent, with enough power to scent you thoroughly, even without adding any EDT or cologne.
    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Agree with pretty much all of this.

    I think Safari is connected to some memory that I can't specifically recall. But it immediately smelled extremely familiar and...womanly.

    Saying that is out of character for me, as I'm almost always comfortable wearing feminine marketed scents and am a big proponent of fragrances having no inherent gender. Maybe I had a teacher who wore this heavily, or a relative. It came out around the time I would have started to notice and remember things like scents on people. Was this very popular when released? I totally feel like it's wearing me, or more accurately like I'm in the presence of an invisible woman wearing it.

    ...I think it was a teacher. Maybe Ms. Mayo, 1st grade; it would have suited her. This is a strange experience.

    Getting into the scent itself...going into this blind, my first thought was that this absolutely does not match the masculine Safari in any way. That's a spare, dry, spicy, herbal/aromatic fougere (one of the best IMO; I have it backed up). This smells trite to me. I don't get much if any galbanum, and the aldehydes are subdued. I can't really pick up specifics here - it's a highly polished sweet floral accord that's blended to the point where it's an entity separate from its component parts. There is definitely a powerful synthetic layer at play here - and it projects. It's a soft accord, but also bright and very intense. It's a huge, pretty, fluffy, powdery, ambery floral cloud.

    Edit: I'll give it a middle thumb, bordering on down. Just not my thing at all.
    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    edc 1990.

    Edit: Yes, I noticed that your comments are very different from I'm smelling. Weird...maybe Bavard and I are sensitive to something in it? The fixatives he mentioned?
    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    That's exactly what I own. So, I guess.... different strokes!

    I'm particularly surprised because your taste and mine in greens are usually pretty aligned, LJ.
    Like Cook.bot I was kind of surprised at the divergence of preference, but if you put together all the bolded parts then you will have my exact smelling notes.
    I guess I am enjoying more green in the opening as does Cook.bot, and the naturalness of the flowers that Bavard mentions includes, for me, only a light sweetness, and a brightness (not intensity) that LiveJazz mentions. It smells feminine to me but not loud or frilly. I echo the sentiments of Bavard regarding the uncomplicated, slightly modern and reliable qualities. Any powder and animalics are restrained compared to many vintages. I agree that rose is the predominant floral here, but more of a greener floral that leans towards Cook.bot’s description of green chypre

    This has been a thumbs up from me since I first tried it and I have worn it in warm and cool weather and in many environments. Sometimes I reach for this purposefully but I also often reach for it when I don’t know what I am in the mood for and it is always pleasing to me.

    So I agree with Cook.bot that this is probably a case of different strokes. Guess that means more Safari for us, Cook.bot
    Thanks for the buying tip!

    I’m curious about the fixatives and synthetic layers mentioned by Bavard and LiveJazz and wonder what they might be.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
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