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  1. #1
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    Default Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Earlyn and I have swapped samples and planned synchronized wearings starting tomorrow to compare smelling notes. Feel free to join in and/or chime in with thoughts as we get to the ones you know.

    1. Guerlain Habit Rouge edc 1980s
    2. Guerlain Habit Rouge edt 1990s
    3. Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur edt 1990s
    4. Carven Ma Griffe parfum 1940s to 60s
    5. Millot Crepe de Chine parfum 1960
    6. Moschino Pour Homme edt 1990s
    7. Shiaparelli Shocking edc 1950
    8. Lanvin My Sin parfum 1950s or 60s
    9. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt
    10. Coty Paris edt 1950s
    11. Coty Paris pdt 1960s or 70s
    12. Coty Chypre edp 1960s or 70s
    13. Coty L'Aimant pdt 1960s or 70s
    14. Christian Dior Jules edt 1990s
    15. Christian Dior Dune 1991
    16. Christian Dior Dioressence edt 1970s
    17. Chanel Pour Monsieur cologne 1990
    18. Chanel Pour Monsieur edt concentree 1990
    19. Chanel Egoiste edt 1990
    20. Molinard Habanita edt early 1990s
    21. Hermes Amazone edt 1970s or 80s
    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    23. Givenchy Ysatis edt 1984
    24. Givenchy Fleur d'Interdit parfum 1994
    25. Givenchy Amarige parfum 1991
    26. Givenchy Extravagance d'Amarige edt 1998
    27. Givenchy Organza Indecense edp 1996
    28. Givenchy Organza parfum 1996
    29. Marc de la Morandiere Gengis Khan edt 1990s
    30. Ralph Lauren Safari cologne 1990
    31. Ralph Lauren Lauren cologne 1984
    32. D'Orsay Voulez Vous parfum 1965
    33. Lelong Balalaika parfum 1950s
    34. Versace L'Homme edt 1980s
    35. Nicole Miller parfum 1993
    36. Dana Totem (original)
    Last edited by Bavard; 17th November 2019 at 12:12 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I only have a few of these, but I'll see if I can synch on those days. Looks like a fun ride.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I only have a few of these, but I'll see if I can synch on those days. Looks like a fun ride.
    Name names. You'd make a top synchronizer, no doubt.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I have several of these and eagerly await reading everyone’s input. I may participate with a dab or two here and there. I’ve been going really easy on fragrances the last couple weeks really as I went on vacation with only a couple and now we’ve adopted a puppy last Thursday (just not wanting to overwhelm her just yet and let her get truly acclimated to her new pack.
    Sent from the bayou, using homing gators.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Name names. You'd make a top synchronizer, no doubt.
    2. Guerlain Habit Rouge edt (not sure of vintage)

    6. Moschino Pour Homme edt 1990s

    8. Lanvin My Sin parfum 1950s or 60s

    9. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt

    14. Christian Dior Jules edt 1990s

    17. Chanel Pour Monsieur cologne 1990 (earlier)
    18. Chanel Pour Monsieur edt concentree 1990
    19. Chanel Egoiste edt 1990 (or earlier)

    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s

    29. Marc de la Morandiere Gengis Khan edt 1990s
    30. Ralph Lauren Safari cologne 1990

    34. Versace L'Homme edt 1980s

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Bavard and Earlyn-

    This will be a fun topic! I will chime in when I can.

    I have the following perfumes from your list (on occasion, in different formulation):


    1. Guerlain Habit Rouge edc 1980s
    3. Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur edt 1990s
    4. Carven Ma Griffe parfum 1940s to 60s
    5. Millot Crepe de Chine parfum 1960
    7. Shiaparelli Shocking edc 1950
    8. Lanvin My Sin parfum 1950s or 60s
    9. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt
    10. Coty Paris edt 1950s
    11. Coty Paris pdt 1960s or 70s
    12. Coty Chypre edp 1960s or 70s
    13. Coty L'Aimant pdt 1960s or 70s
    15. Christian Dior Dioressence edt 1970s
    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    23. Givenchy Ysatis edt 1984
    25. Givenchy Amarige parfum 1991
    32. D'Orsay Voulez Vous parfum 1965
    33. Lelong Balalaika parfum 1950s
    36. Dana Totem (original)

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Great idea. I am not good with syncs but will join you guys whenever I can.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Bellodgia by Caron

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    This is interesting!
    Quite some fragrances that seem right up my alley, but that I have never tried yet. I'm curious to know what the opinion is on these.
    I shall join, when the few fragrances are going to be tested that I also have.
    They are:

    2. Guerlain Habit Rouge edt 1990s
    6. Moschino Pour Homme edt 1990s
    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    34. Versace L'Homme edt 1980s

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    C6684932-92BB-4274-B0A8-8A668C01704F.jpg

    This is our Habit Rouge edc bottle, about 3 ml remaining in the 30-ml (one-ounce) bottle.

    About halfway through this bottle, maybe two thirds, I backed it up with a 100-ml bottle that's just called cologne, and not eau de cologne, but it smells the same to me.

    6B0969D3-51D9-4529-A254-5CAF3A13EE02.jpeg

    When I was in the market, it wasn't too hard to come by vintage Habit Rouge. It seems curiously underrated to me, maybe not rare enough to generate scarcity buzz, but with the other ingredients of a classic, such as lots of oak moss. The ingredients smell good. The vanilla in this smells especially good. The mossy vanilla accord, also in Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree, grows on me. I settle into it, and it feels right. Moss and vanilla, why not? There are other notes. There are some flowers in here.

    The main impression is of a perfume company at the height of its power releasing an ambitious men's fragrance, impeccably refined, dressy, subtle, and delicious.

    A downside is arguably the power of the fragrance. I have to go with heavy sprays to get a scent cloud, and it can be overpowered by other perfumes, especially modern ones. I've worn it on dates and had it make zero impression because it was too light.

    The base is a lovely powder, gentlemanly.

    The Basenotes directory on Habit Rouge

    About Habit Rouge
    Another Guerlain classic: Habit Rouge (meaning red jacket) combines notes of bergamot, patchouli, vanilla and leather.

    Habit Rouge fragrance notes
    Bergamot, Lemon, Rosewood, Basil, Pimento
    Sandal, Carnation, Patchouli, Cedar, Rose, Cinnamon
    Vanilla, Amber, Moss, Leather, Benzoin, Labdanum, Olibanum
    Guerlain on their own Habit Rouge

    Created in 1965, Habit Rouge was the first oriental fragrance for men in perfumery. From the moment of its launch, this tribute to Guerlain's passion for the dressage of horses created an element of surprise with its scents of sensual and bold vanilla. An oriental that is by turns citrusy, warm and accented with vanilla, it expresses the genius of contrast and well-mastered emotions.

    Habit Rouge incarnates a man who is enamoured of refinement and capable of all manner of audacity. He lives his life fervently and distinguishes himself with a trail of extreme sensuality.

    With its modern geometry and mastery of form, Habit Rouge has an eternally elegant French appeal.

    FRAGRANCE
    Oriental.
    Dynamic, passionate, audacious.

    Bitterness becomes freshness, playing on refined harmonies of lime and bitter orange. Its spicy, sophisticated heart, warmed by patchouli, rests on a base where leather mellows under the creamy caress of benzoin and vanilla with a rebellious touch.

    PERFUMER SECRETS

    The first oriental men's fragrance, Habit Rouge is considered at Guerlain to be the "Shalimar for men".

    It is crafted around favourite materials (bergamot, vanilla, patchouli, tonka bean), which we find in the Guerlinade.

    The Guerlinade, the sensual olfactory seal of Guerlain creations, gives Habit Rouge a perfectly inimitable style.
    That's a pretty decent write-up from Guerlain. I did think Habit Rouge and Shalimar were a lot alike when I first smelled them. At this moment, I am much more into Habit Rouge than Shalimar.
    Last edited by Bavard; 23rd October 2019 at 12:19 AM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I'm excited to get started! Got a meeting in a no fragrance environment till lunch so will be spritzing after that and coming back here to post notes on the Habit Rouge edc. I'm trying a bunch of these for the first time and looking forward to reading comments
    ”I want all the perfumes”

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Diddy View Post
    I have several of these and eagerly await reading everyone’s input. I may participate with a dab or two here and there. I’ve been going really easy on fragrances the last couple weeks really as I went on vacation with only a couple and now we’ve adopted a puppy last Thursday (just not wanting to overwhelm her just yet and let her get truly acclimated to her new pack.
    The best pack leader example is to apply responsibly.

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    2. Guerlain Habit Rouge edt (not sure of vintage)
    6. Moschino Pour Homme edt 1990s
    8. Lanvin My Sin parfum 1950s or 60s
    9. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt
    14. Christian Dior Jules edt 1990s
    17. Chanel Pour Monsieur cologne 1990 (earlier)
    18. Chanel Pour Monsieur edt concentree 1990
    19. Chanel Egoiste edt 1990 (or earlier)
    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    29. Marc de la Morandiere Gengis Khan edt 1990s
    30. Ralph Lauren Safari cologne 1990
    34. Versace L'Homme edt 1980s
    Brilliant.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Bavard and Earlyn-

    This will be a fun topic! I will chime in when I can.

    I have the following perfumes from your list (on occasion, in different formulation):

    1. Guerlain Habit Rouge edc 1980s
    3. Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur edt 1990s
    4. Carven Ma Griffe parfum 1940s to 60s
    5. Millot Crepe de Chine parfum 1960
    7. Shiaparelli Shocking edc 1950
    8. Lanvin My Sin parfum 1950s or 60s
    9. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt
    10. Coty Paris edt 1950s
    11. Coty Paris pdt 1960s or 70s
    12. Coty Chypre edp 1960s or 70s
    13. Coty L'Aimant pdt 1960s or 70s
    15. Christian Dior Dioressence edt 1970s
    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    23. Givenchy Ysatis edt 1984
    25. Givenchy Amarige parfum 1991
    32. D'Orsay Voulez Vous parfum 1965
    33. Lelong Balalaika parfum 1950s
    36. Dana Totem (original)
    Fun! That is a lot of overlap! We might even have a word on Habit Rouge edc today!

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Great idea. I am not good with syncs but will join you guys whenever I can.
    You owe it to yourself to relax in the evenings and synchronize. The kiddos can self-soothe - it's the best thing for them.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus View Post
    This is interesting!
    Quite some fragrances that seem right up my alley, but that I have never tried yet. I'm curious to know what the opinion is on these.
    I shall join, when the few fragrances are going to be tested that I also have.
    They are:

    2. Guerlain Habit Rouge edt 1990s
    6. Moschino Pour Homme edt 1990s
    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    34. Versace L'Homme edt 1980s
    Sweet! We'll be looking for you in Habit Rouge edt tomorrow!
    Last edited by Bavard; 23rd October 2019 at 03:56 PM.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    My domestic partner, Jules, has gone with a spritz of Habit Rouge edc for the evening. I've re-upped, myself. Her smelling notes on the opening: citrusy, bergamot.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Habit Rouge etc -

    I agree with the Shalimar for men sentiment.

    I'm glad we are syncing because it is forcing me to start writing things down! Here are my notes -

    Habit Rouge edc

    The first hit is a face full of fresh citrus oils from the peel that floats a bit until the pulp spurts up and takes over. This is very much like bergamot/lime to me as there is no hint of Pledge. Like a Mojito lime – balanced between sweet/tart/bitter, juicy and quenching. Fairly quickly a warm make-up effect rises and the transparent fresh juice is pushed aside. I know this is not really like Givenchy III, but the suspended warmth/powder shape is similar to me at this stage. This is more opaque now, beige and not green, and there’s a cool metallic that peeks in and seems to be keeping everything in check. Cool floral notes I suppose. The powder and steel mix it up for a while. Then the contained (Shalimar) powder gets a bit aggressive and I’m worried that it will break out and become a big tan loaf - but luckily it doesn’t and I start getting faint hints of moss. It takes over as woody and spicy and there is an effect of incense because it makes my nose feel as if I am inhaling fragrant smoke. I’m really enjoying this dry down. A layer of vanilla and other sweets join in and they hang on the back of my pallet.

    There is an aha moment for me in the dry down now when I really smell the Guerlain in it. Having not had as much exposure to fragrances as many here it is surprising to me that this is so recognizable, especially as this seems like quite a mash up (a good one). Missing from my description is the leather. I was hoping I would recognize it. I know it has to be there, but I don’t know it when I smell it.

    This fragrance is put together like one of those accordion books. The pages are all separate and surprising when you flip through them, but with this you can stretch them out to see the blended progression along the whole of the book, and it is very impressive. I experience Habit Rouge as very complicated and expertly stacked, with more carefully timed note expression than most of the fragrances I've tried so far. I’ve gotten at least 4 hours of distinct scent and still getting a light mossy blend.

    Now I'm really looking forward to the EDT tomorrow.
    ”I want all the perfumes”

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Habit Rouge etc -

    I agree with the Shalimar for men sentiment.

    I'm glad we are syncing because it is forcing me to start writing things down! Here are my notes -

    Habit Rouge edc

    The first hit is a face full of fresh citrus oils from the peel that floats a bit until the pulp spurts up and takes over. This is very much like bergamot/lime to me as there is no hint of Pledge. Like a Mojito lime – balanced between sweet/tart/bitter, juicy and quenching. Fairly quickly a warm make-up effect rises and the transparent fresh juice is pushed aside. I know this is not really like Givenchy III, but the suspended warmth/powder shape is similar to me at this stage. This is more opaque now, beige and not green, and there’s a cool metallic that peeks in and seems to be keeping everything in check. Cool floral notes I suppose. The powder and steel mix it up for a while. Then the contained (Shalimar) powder gets a bit aggressive and I’m worried that it will break out and become a big tan loaf - but luckily it doesn’t and I start getting faint hints of moss. It takes over as woody and spicy and there is an effect of incense because it makes my nose feel as if I am inhaling fragrant smoke. I’m really enjoying this dry down. A layer of vanilla and other sweets join in and they hang on the back of my pallet.

    There is an aha moment for me in the dry down now when I really smell the Guerlain in it. Having not had as much exposure to fragrances as many here it is surprising to me that this is so recognizable, especially as this seems like quite a mash up (a good one). Missing from my description is the leather. I was hoping I would recognize it. I know it has to be there, but I don’t know it when I smell it.

    This fragrance is put together like one of those accordion books. The pages are all separate and surprising when you flip through them, but with this you can stretch them out to see the blended progression along the whole of the book, and it is very impressive. I experience Habit Rouge as very complicated and expertly stacked, with more carefully timed note expression than most of the fragrances I've tried so far. I’ve gotten at least 4 hours of distinct scent and still getting a light mossy blend.

    Now I'm really looking forward to the EDT tomorrow.
    These smelling notes are so, so good. I agree.

    I think I might get moss earlier than you. It's what my nose is trained to look for. I got hooked on it from Chanel Pour Monsieur.

    Leather? Leather is sometimes a concept linked with moss and/or moss + patchouli. It's there if you want to believe. I don't know that I mentioned leather in my notes. That said, I clearly see how it's a leather fragrance. I'm a total believer.

    Here's HoP's review of Guerlain Habit Rouge edc:

    This, is for a vintage, EDC version...

    There is still some good citrus on top. Lots of lovely lemon. Basil and pimento are vibrant as well. Funny - if I'd blind-tested this, I'd recognize this as a Guerlain - it has that profile / signature.

    The heart is a treat of evenly balanced flowers and woody-green things. Just enough cinnamon to give some heat. Carnation is well-behaved (for my nose). HR could easily be androgynous.

    The base is a fine, mellow mix. Some green, old leather, a slight fizzy resinous feel. Overall, a sturdy great offering.
    Amen, HoP. Amen.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    2. Guerlain Habit Rouge edt (not sure of vintage)

    6. Moschino Pour Homme edt 1990s

    8. Lanvin My Sin parfum 1950s or 60s

    9. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt

    14. Christian Dior Jules edt 1990s

    17. Chanel Pour Monsieur cologne 1990 (earlier)
    18. Chanel Pour Monsieur edt concentree 1990
    19. Chanel Egoiste edt 1990 (or earlier)

    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s

    29. Marc de la Morandiere Gengis Khan edt 1990s
    30. Ralph Lauren Safari cologne 1990

    34. Versace L'Homme edt 1980s
    Habit Rouge EDT bottle is from 1989, that should be good enough.

    Don't have Jules, L'Homme, Safari Cologne, My Sin

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Bavard and Earlyn-

    This will be a fun topic! I will chime in when I can.

    I have the following perfumes from your list (on occasion, in different formulation):


    1. Guerlain Habit Rouge edc 1980s
    3. Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur edt 1990s
    4. Carven Ma Griffe parfum 1940s to 60s
    5. Millot Crepe de Chine parfum 1960
    7. Shiaparelli Shocking edc 1950
    8. Lanvin My Sin parfum 1950s or 60s
    9. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club edt
    10. Coty Paris edt 1950s
    11. Coty Paris pdt 1960s or 70s
    12. Coty Chypre edp 1960s or 70s
    13. Coty L'Aimant pdt 1960s or 70s
    15. Christian Dior Dioressence edt 1970s
    22. Givenchy Gentleman edt 1970s
    23. Givenchy Ysatis edt 1984
    25. Givenchy Amarige parfum 1991
    32. D'Orsay Voulez Vous parfum 1965
    33. Lelong Balalaika parfum 1950s
    36. Dana Totem (original)
    I've recently received some Dana Totem and Crepe de Chine, impressions are underway for the latter. There were a few Coty samples that I've received as well but didn't include L'Aimant or Paris.
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Habit Rouge etc -

    I agree with the Shalimar for men sentiment.

    I'm glad we are syncing because it is forcing me to start writing things down! Here are my notes -

    Habit Rouge edc

    The first hit is a face full of fresh citrus oils from the peel that floats a bit until the pulp spurts up and takes over. This is very much like bergamot/lime to me as there is no hint of Pledge. Like a Mojito lime – balanced between sweet/tart/bitter, juicy and quenching. Fairly quickly a warm make-up effect rises and the transparent fresh juice is pushed aside. I know this is not really like Givenchy III, but the suspended warmth/powder shape is similar to me at this stage. This is more opaque now, beige and not green, and there’s a cool metallic that peeks in and seems to be keeping everything in check. Cool floral notes I suppose. The powder and steel mix it up for a while. Then the contained (Shalimar) powder gets a bit aggressive and I’m worried that it will break out and become a big tan loaf - but luckily it doesn’t and I start getting faint hints of moss. It takes over as woody and spicy and there is an effect of incense because it makes my nose feel as if I am inhaling fragrant smoke. I’m really enjoying this dry down. A layer of vanilla and other sweets join in and they hang on the back of my pallet.

    There is an aha moment for me in the dry down now when I really smell the Guerlain in it. Having not had as much exposure to fragrances as many here it is surprising to me that this is so recognizable, especially as this seems like quite a mash up (a good one). Missing from my description is the leather. I was hoping I would recognize it. I know it has to be there, but I don’t know it when I smell it.

    This fragrance is put together like one of those accordion books. The pages are all separate and surprising when you flip through them, but with this you can stretch them out to see the blended progression along the whole of the book, and it is very impressive. I experience Habit Rouge as very complicated and expertly stacked, with more carefully timed note expression than most of the fragrances I've tried so far. I’ve gotten at least 4 hours of distinct scent and still getting a light mossy blend.

    Now I'm really looking forward to the EDT tomorrow.
    I enjoyed the EDC concentration much more than the EDT. To my nose the EDT didn't have that prominent fresh zesty lemon vanilla opening like the EDC.
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  17. #17
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    I'm thoroughly enjoying these notes on Habit Rouge--great job Bavard and Earlyn!

    I was convinced that I had a sample of vintage HR EDC or EDT--didn't you send me some, Bavard?--but it turns out that I have a sample of Habit Rouge L'Extrait, a rarity from 2008 that was generously shared with me by MikePerez. From what I can tell, L'Extrait is a much more intense version of HR, following the line of devlopment of the 2003 EDP, with the addition of more woods and incense, including, it seems, agarwood. So this is the Oudy Habit Rouge from the Oughties. L'Extrait is beautiful stuff, balanced, rich, and elegant. The citrus opening dissipates quickly into an herbal middle that presents neroli and a clear tarragon note to me. The base consists of judiciously calibrated resins and woods, simultaneously rich and airy...natural? synthetic? who cares? There is no WAC sledgehammer here, just Wasser at his best.

    I do not intend to develop a taste for HR L'Extrait, but I would certainly wear this regularly, if I had a bottle.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I'm thoroughly enjoying these notes on Habit Rouge--great job Bavard and Earlyn!

    I was convinced that I had a sample of vintage HR EDC or EDT--didn't you send me some, Bavard?--but it turns out that I have a sample of Habit Rouge L'Extrait, a rarity from 2008 that was generously shared with me by MikePerez. From what I can tell, L'Extrait is a much more intense version of HR, following the line of devlopment of the 2003 EDP, with the addition of more woods and incense, including, it seems, agarwood. So this is the Oudy Habit Rouge from the Oughties. L'Extrait is beautiful stuff, balanced, rich, and elegant. The citrus opening dissipates quickly into an herbal middle that presents neroli and a clear tarragon note to me. The base consists of judiciously calibrated resins and woods, simultaneously rich and airy...natural? synthetic? who cares? There is no WAC sledgehammer here, just Wasser at his best.

    I do not intend to develop a taste for HR L'Extrait, but I would certainly wear this regularly, if I had a bottle.
    Thank you so much! And thank you for joining in Habit Rouge L'Extrait! I think Habit Rouge might not be one I sent you. I remember wanting to get your smelling notes on Antaeus. I, myself, have tried Habit Rouge Dress Code courtesy of a Mike Perez sample - a much more modern version that I didn't like as much.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

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    Here is the Habit Rouge edt bottle for today's sample.

    It's quite a different take on Habit Rouge. A stronger, more aggressive version. The opening is challenging. It needs a few minutes to settle. Within five minutes, I'm in my comfort zone. The edt has started blooming.

    I liked the comment on the edc that it has a makeup effect. That's the kind of floral effect it has, I agree. There's less of that in the edt, to my nose. Although this is powdery. A thicker, heavier powder than the edc. I like it. The signature herbal smell is dominant early on. I'm smelling more vanilla 20 minutes in.

    Compared to the edc, this smells dangerous. The edc is for gentlemen. I think the edt oversteps the gentleman stereotype somewhat. This smells like someone looking to party.

    This fragrance is great for development. To some, I think, good development is prized. For those, this might be the version to go for. It also feels like even more of a showcase for the Guerlain style than the edc.

    Ultimately, I'm happy having the bigger bottle for the edc (100 ml) and the smaller bottle for the edt (50 ml). I like the emphasis on instant gratification in the edc. These fragrances are just one way to get a Guerlain fix, but a good one. They're more than light versions of Shalimar, but I think they do pack a little less punch than a Shalimar or L'Heure Bleue - well designed for men.

    The edt has more musk (I think it is) that I'm detecting in the base, compared to the edc.
    Last edited by Bavard; 23rd October 2019 at 05:30 PM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I'm thoroughly enjoying these notes on Habit Rouge--great job Bavard and Earlyn!

    I was convinced that I had a sample of vintage HR EDC or EDT--didn't you send me some, Bavard?--but it turns out that I have a sample of Habit Rouge L'Extrait, a rarity from 2008 that was generously shared with me by MikePerez. From what I can tell, L'Extrait is a much more intense version of HR, following the line of devlopment of the 2003 EDP, with the addition of more woods and incense, including, it seems, agarwood. So this is the Oudy Habit Rouge from the Oughties. L'Extrait is beautiful stuff, balanced, rich, and elegant. The citrus opening dissipates quickly into an herbal middle that presents neroli and a clear tarragon note to me. The base consists of judiciously calibrated resins and woods, simultaneously rich and airy...natural? synthetic? who cares? There is no WAC sledgehammer here, just Wasser at his best.

    I do not intend to develop a taste for HR L'Extrait, but I would certainly wear this regularly, if I had a bottle.
    Thanks for sharing about the L'Extrait. Sounds nice - especially the base and the more woods and incense.
    ”I want all the perfumes”

  21. #21

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard;

    It's quite a different take on Habit Rouge. A stronger, more aggressive version. The opening is challenging. It needs a few minutes to settle. Within five minutes, I'm in my comfort zone. The edt has started blooming.

    I liked the comment on the edc that it has a makeup effect. That's the kind of floral effect it has, I agree. There's less of that in the edt, to my nose. Although this is powdery. A thicker, heavier powder than the edc. I like it. The signature herbal smell is dominant early on. I'm smelling more vanilla 20 minutes in.

    Compared to the edc, this smells dangerous. The edc is for gentlemen. I think the edt oversteps the gentleman stereotype somewhat. This smells like someone looking to party.

    This fragrance is great for development. To some, I think, good development is prized. For those, this might be the version to go for. It also feels like even more of a showcase for the Guerlain style than the edc.

    Ultimately, I'm happy having the bigger bottle for the edc (100 ml) and the smaller bottle for the edt (50 ml). I like the emphasis on instant gratification in the edc. These fragrances are just one way to get a Guerlain fix, but a good one. They're more than light versions of Shalimar, but I think they do pack a little less punch than a Shalimar or L'Heure Bleue - well designed for men.

    The edt has more musk (I think it is) that I'm detecting in the base, compared to the edc.
    This is interesting - I did my test and notes and then came to the thread to find yours and others' comments. I tried to hi-light your text but it kept bolding whole paragraphs so...
    Yes, less makeup effect than edc.
    On development I had other preferences.
    I'd be happy with the bigger etc than edt.
    Maybe the musk is pumping the sweetness a little?
    Habit Rouge for He, Shalimar for She, they start out smelling of different fruits, flowers, and herbs, but by the end of the night both smell like vanilla, the woods, and each other.

    Here are my notes:
    Habit Rouge edt-

    This starts off with the same lime peel as the edc, maybe a bit oilier. The initial citrus seems to hang around longer than the edc and instead of being pushed aside, there is a nice bit I like of extended time where the citrus coexists with the rising powdery floral. I’m getting a little clearer on the carnation here and it seems that maybe this has less going on in the background than the edc or notes are more blended. This seems a little sweeter and warmer than the edc for a while, but then I get a hint of that cool metallic. It has some spice to it so I wonder if what I am getting is patchouli. I just breathed on my wrist and this smells like maybe patchouli and carnation. edit* I think this is the tarragon grayspoole mentioned - now that she named it I'm making that strong association *edit. Moisture brings out the spice and it cools as it dries, and underneath all this is moss. The carnation is still around when the vanilla and incense comes up and I like that it is still there. I’m trying to remember the edc dry down from yesterday and I think this has more vanilla and sweetness, and the moss here is slightly bitter to offset, unless that is coming from another material. Not as much incense – cooler. Where the edc was like puddles of separate watercolor hues blending wet in wet, the edt is more like hues squeezed directly from the tube onto a flat palette knife and dragged across a canvas to blend. There’s no thinness at any point.

    My experience of the transitions and transparencies in the two formulations of Habit Rouge brings to mind another image. Habit Rouge edt presents to me like a stacked wall – courses of bricks one on top of each other, the structure strengthened by skillfully overlapping bricks midway to create a sturdy structure with a top edge that is relatively equal in height. Although the bricks to construct the edc and the edt are very similar, I prefer the ups and downs and surprises of the edc over the edt, as well as the edc’s more incense and blooming warmth towards the end.
    ”I want all the perfumes”

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    HRGin.jpg
    "You woke me up for this?"

    Habit Rouge isn't something I chose for myself, but rather something chosen for me. Thus, I've been curious, but also a tad trepidatious. This is the first time I've worn it.

    I got a slightly spicy-woody scent off the top (although I couldn't clearly identify which spices or woods—note identification is not my forte), which I found promising. There was even a brief suggestion of something animalic. But, before it touched my skin, I got a strong whiff of vanilla in the spray, and while I don't dislike vanilla per se, I don't care for it on me. Fairly early on, the vanilla has emerged from the woods and spices, and pushed them off to the side, though not entirely out of the picture. Fortunately, it isn't overly sweet, as I've found the vanilla to be in much-lauded scents from Caron Pour Un Homme to Dior Homme. It is, however, very powdery, though without being discernibly floral. (Or rather, without a specific flower I can discern.) It also seems to be masking something vaguely metallic in the base, which might actually be agar. It's as if it hints at iris without having any.

    I'm still only about an hour in—I'm a late riser, folks—so I can't say anything declarative about the dry down. I can say that I didn't get even a hint of citrus in any of this. The musk, however, is now showing up on cue, like the telegraphed denouement of a particularly tame romance novel. (More bodice-mender than bodice-ripper.)

    I find it fascinating that Bavard's takeaway is "dangerous…like someone looking to party." By contrast, the greatest danger I can discern is that of getting a headache, and I think it smells like someone who wants to stay home and crochet. If I had to some it up in three words, they would be, "my grandmother's compact."

    Unless something miraculous happens with it in the next hour or so, I don't imagine I'll ever wear Habit Rouge again. But, more power to those who love it!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    HRGin.jpg
    "You woke me up for this?"

    If I had to some it up in three words, they would be, "my grandmother's compact."
    Nice Kitty. So great when we can involve the family in our hobbies.

    Your quote is true for me for at least part of the progression. If that smell is kept under control I don't have an issue with it but if it puffs up big it is a little scary. It is curious you did not get any citrus at all. I got such a blast of it on the top with both the etc and edt (less juicy). Like you I am not great at picking out notes, but I'd love someone to tell me what materials make the "grandmother's compact" smell? I smell it so often and I would love to be able to call it out in more specific terms. I call it a big tan loaf, which I guess is close.

    Edit - "touches of white florals and iris that give a "face powder/foundation" kind of a smell." that quote is from Zealot Crusader's review of Aroma 3 that he just posted. I still don't understand why iris is not listed for some fragrances that have very detectable makeup notes.

    I'm not familiar with agar so I'll have to look into that - there is definitely something metallic. Like when you bleed in your mouth or when you eat with a steel spoon.
    ”I want all the perfumes”

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Nice Kitty. So great when we can involve the family in our hobbies.
    It helps that he humors me.

    I'd love someone to tell me what materials make the "grandmother's compact" smell?
    It might depend on your grandmother's taste in cosmetics. For me, I think it was mix of vanilla, carnation (I'm getting more florals now), and musk.

    I'm not familiar with agar so I'll have to look into that - there is definitely something metallic. Like when you bleed in your mouth or when you eat with a steel spoon.
    Yep, like that. Agar is the wood from which oud is sourced. Oud is actually a resin produced when the agar tree is infected with a particular kind of parasitic mold. (Ah, the romance of perfumery!) Most so-called "oud" fragrances don't actually contain any, because it's hella expensive. So, perfumers will design an oud note, and some use agar to help achieve it. Agar has its own scent, of course. I'm most familiar with it from Hermès' Agar Ébène, though that's a blend of agar and fir balsam, the latter being a sweeter wood scent.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I find it fascinating that Bavard's takeaway is "dangerous…like someone looking to party." By contrast . . . I think it smells like someone who wants to stay home and crochet.
    I think we're definitely smelling the same thing. That's a clubbing fragrance for me.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I find it fascinating that Bavard's takeaway is "dangerous…like someone looking to party." By contrast … I think it smells like someone who wants to stay home and crochet.
    I think we're definitely smelling the same thing. That's a clubbing fragrance for me.
    I'm now far more curious about all the clubbing I've missed than I have ever been before.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I'm now far more curious about all the clubbing I've missed than I have ever been before.
    You can't talk about musk, carnation, and vanilla and be surprised someone would go with heavy sprays and hit the dance floor.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    You can't talk about musk, carnation, and vanilla and be surprised someone would go with heavy sprays and hit the dance floor.
    Maybe you can't.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    This is interesting - I did my test and notes and then came to the thread to find yours and others' comments. I tried to hi-light your text but it kept bolding whole paragraphs so...
    Yes, less makeup effect than edc.
    On development I had other preferences.
    I'd be happy with the bigger edc than edt.
    Maybe the musk is pumping the sweetness a little?
    Habit Rouge for He, Shalimar for She, they start out smelling of different fruits, flowers, and herbs, but by the end of the night both smell like vanilla, the woods, and each other.

    Here are my notes:
    Habit Rouge edt-

    This starts off with the same lime peel as the edc, maybe a bit oilier. The initial citrus seems to hang around longer than the edc and instead of being pushed aside, there is a nice bit I like of extended time where the citrus coexists with the rising powdery floral. I’m getting a little clearer on the carnation here and it seems that maybe this has less going on in the background than the edc or notes are more blended. This seems a little sweeter and warmer than the edc for a while, but then I get a hint of that cool metallic. It has some spice to it so I wonder if what I am getting is patchouli. I just breathed on my wrist and this smells like maybe patchouli and carnation. edit* I think this is the tarragon grayspoole mentioned - now that she named it I'm making that strong association *edit. Moisture brings out the spice and it cools as it dries, and underneath all this is moss. The carnation is still around when the vanilla and incense comes up and I like that it is still there. I’m trying to remember the edc dry down from yesterday and I think this has more vanilla and sweetness, and the moss here is slightly bitter to offset, unless that is coming from another material. Not as much incense – cooler. Where the edc was like puddles of separate watercolor hues blending wet in wet, the edt is more like hues squeezed directly from the tube onto a flat palette knife and dragged across a canvas to blend. There’s no thinness at any point.

    My experience of the transitions and transparencies in the two formulations of Habit Rouge brings to mind another image. Habit Rouge edt presents to me like a stacked wall – courses of bricks one on top of each other, the structure strengthened by skillfully overlapping bricks midway to create a sturdy structure with a top edge that is relatively equal in height. Although the bricks to construct the edc and the edt are very similar, I prefer the ups and downs and surprises of the edc over the edt, as well as the edc’s more incense and blooming warmth towards the end.
    Top smelling notes, as always. The incense (nag champa) and / or sandalwood is stronger for me in the edt. I can understand you prefer the edc - your arguments resonate - I agree.

    On patchouli: I prefer the edc. The edt edges it for musk! I'm more into the well-done patchouli.

    I still love the edt. I think there's a lot there to love. Even if it's not as good as the edc, it's still possibly the second greatest fragrance ever! I'm only half joking. Sometimes I get a patchouli note, from either version, that has a light touch of Givenchy Gentleman - a touch of heaven.

    The musk is pumping the sweetness, I think, yes. The vanilla is so predominant in the base, I agree. Shalimar and Habit Rouge can be siblings who look a lot alike.

    Tomorrow is the third of a three-night Guerlain set with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization

    rider-in-a-red-coat-1868.jpg!Large.jpg
    Edgar Degas, Cavalier en Habit Rouge (1868)

    In the opening I get this big splash of a very juicy note I would describe as an abstract citrus note. I don’t think it really smells like real natural citrus, but for me it evokes the feeling of biting in a very juicy citrus fruit. This note is already supported by rose and carnation, and from the offset it is clear this isn’t a fragrance designed to please everyone. For me the opening is a very bold statement, and I can easily see why people would either hate it or love it (I belong in the latter camp).

    After the opening the lemon gradually resides to the background, and I think it is here that many people feel this goes into “grandma’s purse” or “lipstick” territory. I think this maybe has to do something with the cinnamon in Habit Rouge, which can give of a dusty/powdery feeling. I personally associate that cinnamon (and maybe in combo with the patchouli?) note in here more with a dusty earthy quality, and together with the rose/carnation combo it gives me a very central/south European “old world” feeling which I find truly mesmerizing. The further I go into the dry down (this fragrance easily last the whole day on me) the more the typical comforting Guerlinade comes up, but the earthiness/dirtiness never completely disappears.

    I think for me the magic in vintage Habit Rouge EdT is in the perfect balance of the beautiful/sophisticated notes (citrus/sandal/rose/vanilla/amber) and the more dirty/earthy notes (carnation/moss/leather/cinnamon) giving the fragrance depth and substance. I believe true beauty can only be experienced with a lived-through notion of it’s counterbalance, and for me there isn’t a fragrance that demonstrates this better than vintage Habit Rouge EdT. The EdP for example leans much more to the smooth/elegant side of things for me (don’t get me wrong, I also love that one). Therefore it becomes more easy to wear, but it also has a bit less character and depth. Vintage EdT for me is a 10/10 masterpiece, and if I would really have to choose one of my fragrances as a “signature scent” this would be it. This is the fragrance I feel most emotionally connected to. It probably shows in my writing, as I find it impossible to stick to “just” smelling notes. Habit Rouge for me is not about smelling it is about feeling.




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