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  1. #1
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    Default Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    I recently was able to sample a perfume with a cuir du russie accord in it, and was enamored of the scent.

    My wife is also a fan of leather, but not of sweet scents on me (or herself, for that matter).

    I was planning on grabbing a few samples in November and was hoping for some recommendations from you fine folks.

    Was planning on starting with Bel Ami.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Try a decant of Roja Great Britain as there is no sweetness to the scent just glorious refined leather


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  3. #3

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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Bel Ami is certanly very good and worth trying. People mean different things when they talk about "powdery"-sometimes it's iris, sometimes it's white musk, sometimes something else-so it's hard to be sure what is what. Which perfume did you smell with a cuir de russie accord? Usually, cuir de russie accords often have florals or something smoothing out the drier leather notes.

    Non-sweet leathers that I would consider non-powdery include;
    Etat Libre d'Orange Rien (very animalic)
    Acqua di Parma Colonia leather (with citrus, but very dry, almost brutalistic)
    Piguet Bandit (green, dry)
    None of these, however, is considered a "cuir de russie" accord.

    The typical cuir de russie accords are the Chanel one, Dior cuir cannage, and Hermes Cuir d'ange. However, these may come off as powdery to some.

    cacio

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Macsrul View Post
    Try a decant of Roja Great Britain as there is no sweetness to the scent just glorious refined leather


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Thank you.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Bel Ami is certanly very good and worth trying. People mean different things when they talk about "powdery"-sometimes it's iris, sometimes it's white musk, sometimes something else-so it's hard to be sure what is what. Which perfume did you smell with a cuir de russie accord? Usually, cuir de russie accords often have florals or something smoothing out the drier leather notes.

    Non-sweet leathers that I would consider non-powdery include;
    Etat Libre d'Orange Rien (very animalic)
    Acqua di Parma Colonia leather (with citrus, but very dry, almost brutalistic)
    Piguet Bandit (green, dry)
    None of these, however, is considered a "cuir de russie" accord.

    The typical cuir de russie accords are the Chanel one, Dior cuir cannage, and Hermes Cuir d'ange. However, these may come off as powdery to some.

    cacio
    ALD's Antiquity. Loved the leather. Too much cat butt for me.

    I also like Histories 1740, but do not find it office appropriate.

    I am too ignorant to describe what I like. I grew up around a lot of rodeo leather and love that smell. But would like it to be a little more complex than just a western wear store. Further complicating is that I like smoke, but only in small doses.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Bel Ami being already a very good starting point for this type of scents, also adding:

    Bogart Signature, Versace pour Homme, Boucheron pour Homme EDP, La Martina Hombre and/or Cuero, Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir, vintage Givenchy Gentleman, Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme, Rocabar by Hermes, Chevignon Brand for Men

    to a (re) testing list of non powdery leathers

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Bel Ami being already a very good starting point for this type of scents, also adding:

    Bogart Signature, Versace pour Homme, Boucheron pour Homme EDP, La Martina Hombre and/or Cuero, Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir, vintage Givenchy Gentleman, Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme, Rocabar by Hermes, Chevignon Brand for Men

    to a (re) testing list of non powdery leathers
    Wow! Thank you so much!

    Now to narrow to a few to start with!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Helmut Lang Cuiron is one of the the most austere (dry, not powdery at all) leathers I know of. It's not the typical soft "cuir de russie" style of leather you reference...but IMO is does smell quite literally like new leather goods.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Helmut Lang Cuiron is one of the the most austere (dry, not powdery at all) leathers I know of. It's not the typical soft "cuir de russie" style of leather you reference...but IMO is does smell quite literally like new leather goods.
    Are we talking current version?
    Currently wearing: 1000 by Jean Patou

  9. #9

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Are we talking current version?
    I haven't smelled the current-est version. Has it changed?
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    As cacio pointed out earlier and I concur most Cuir de Russie-style fragrances tend to be a little powdery due partly to the key iris component.
    If you’re after non powdery leathers, try some of these:

    Tom Ford Tuscan Leather
    Zoologist T-Rex
    Francesca Bianchi The Black Knight
    Odori Cuoio
    YVRA 1965
    Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur
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  11. #11
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Singularious View Post
    I recently was able to sample a perfume with a cuir du russie accord in it, and was enamored of the scent.

    My wife is also a fan of leather, but not of sweet scents on me (or herself, for that matter).

    I was planning on grabbing a few samples in November and was hoping for some recommendations from you fine folks.

    Was planning on starting with Bel Ami.

    Thoughts?
    As cacio mentioned, Bel Ami doesn't have a Cuir de Russie accord as such. Also, I'm not at all convinced with the current version of Bel Ami, it is thin and hollow. For Bel Ami, best to go after earlier versions, plus Puredistance M and Moschino pour Homme along similar lines.

    As for cuir de russie style leathers, Chanel might be the reference but I find it too soft and weak. I'd wholeheartedly suggest Cuir Cannage and Cuir Mauresque in this style.

    As for other leathers, there are so many different styles and varieties. Fahrenheit, Tuscan Leather, Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather, Rien and Patchouli 24 are some of the good ones (hopefully you wouldn't find them to be powdery).

    There are several excellent leather-y gents' scents from the 70s/80s, I'd suggest Davidoff ("classic", the one released in 1984), earlier versions of Versace L'Homme (particularly the brown box & thick script second version), Antaeus and Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme. However, there are many others out there.


    P.S. I don't like to suggest hard-to-find perfumes, but as far as gents' leather chypres are concerned Guerlain's Derby in the earlier "eagle" bottle is absolutely top shelf stuff.

    You may start out with the current Derby - I find it disappointing but most people here find it close to the earlier version. I remembered after noticing Jon's wardrobe icon.
    Currently wearing: Russian Tea by Masque

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I haven't smelled the current-est version. Has it changed?
    Barely any discernible difference. It's an excellent re-working that is very faithful to the original

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Thanks everyone.

    Meant to mention that I have sampled Tuscan Leather and did not care for it at all. I wish I could better explain why. It did not smell like new leather boots or high-end automotive, both of which are my mental image of leathery smells, along with baseball gloves.

    For those that have sampled it, I did like La Curie's Larrea as the type of leather that rings my bell. But found it to be an "almost but not quite". I may need to give it another wearing.
    Last edited by Singularious; 28th October 2019 at 08:47 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Check out Fetish by Roja Dove for a spicy leather. I recently tried the new Fredric Malle - Rose and Cuir and it’s pretty nice if you don’t mind rose in your fragrances. Another excellent leather from the line is The Moon, although if the fruity top not of Tuscan leather bothers you, you may not like this one either.

    My favorite leather is Cuir Majeste by Armani, but it’s not a full on leather, it’s mainly an incense and dried fruit leather with a leather base.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I haven't smelled the current-est version. Has it changed?
    There's a vintage version that's impossible to find now and the current iteration.
    Currently wearing: 1000 by Jean Patou

  16. #16

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Floris Leather Oud is splendid.

  17. #17

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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    I don't know ALD antiquity, so I should definitely check.

    The old Cuir de Russie style seems indeed to be what you are looking for. The idea of Cuir de Russie was exactly to have the smell from military paraphernalia (like boots, or equestrian implements, which especially in Russia were tanned with birch tar), but made gentle and elegant with flowers and ambers. Perhaps you do really want to try the Chanel and see if you find it powdery or not.

    1740 is more about immortelle than leather to my nose, and it does have some sweetness, so perhaps that's what you don't like.

    cacio

  18. #18

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Gucci Guilty Absolute perhaps?

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Perhaps Cuir D'Orient by SLM
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Wow. Again, thanks for the recommendations and education thus far.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Floris Leather Oud is splendid.
    I will add this to my list, assuming the oud is at least marginally tame.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I don't know ALD antiquity, so I should definitely check.

    The old Cuir de Russie style seems indeed to be what you are looking for. The idea of Cuir de Russie was exactly to have the smell from military paraphernalia (like boots, or equestrian implements, which especially in Russia were tanned with birch tar), but made gentle and elegant with flowers and ambers. Perhaps you do really want to try the Chanel and see if you find it powdery or not.

    1740 is more about immortelle than leather to my nose, and it does have some sweetness, so perhaps that's what you don't like.

    cacio
    Yup. Boots, saddles, etc. And okay with birch tar, too, as long as it stays close.

    Okay, unless someone strongly suggests otherwise, I think I'll start with:

    Bel Ami
    Cuir Ottoman
    Knize Ten
    Chanel CdR
    Derby
    Cuiron
    Leather Oud (Floris)

    I feel like if I start with these, I might be able to better articulate what I like/dislike about each and come back for additional input.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Singularious View Post
    I will add this to my list, assuming the oud is at least marginally tame.
    Floris Leather Oud doesn't really go-in for that full-bodied "oud" note. It's a Westernized, clean oud that's just part of the base to help balance things out.

    The leather note in it is reminiscent of nice armchair suede.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    That´s a great list, with many of my favorite leathers, and it´s also quite diverged and perfect to start with.

    Quote Originally Posted by Singularious View Post

    Okay, unless someone strongly suggests otherwise, I think I'll start with:

    Bel Ami
    Cuir Ottoman
    Knize Ten
    Chanel CdR
    Derby
    Cuiron

    I feel like if I start with these, I might be able to better articulate what I like/dislike about each and come back for additional input.
    "Wonderfully wild, eminently civilized" - Derby by Guerlain

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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Etro's Gomma smells surprisingly close to the vintage version of Chanel's Cuir de Russie. It's slight rubberiness makes it a bit more "masculine."
    Currently wearing: 1000 by Jean Patou

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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Etro's Gomma smells surprisingly close to the vintage version of Chanel's Cuir de Russie. It's slight rubberiness makes it a bit more "masculine."
    I concur.
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  25. #25
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Etro's Gomma smells surprisingly close to the vintage version of Chanel's Cuir de Russie. It's slight rubberiness makes it a bit more "masculine."
    Sounds like a bit of a hidden gem!

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Singularious View Post
    Wow. Again, thanks for the recommendations and education thus far.



    I will add this to my list, assuming the oud is at least marginally tame.



    Yup. Boots, saddles, etc. And okay with birch tar, too, as long as it stays close.

    Okay, unless someone strongly suggests otherwise, I think I'll start with:

    Bel Ami
    Cuir Ottoman
    Knize Ten
    Chanel CdR
    Derby
    Cuiron
    Leather Oud (Floris)

    I feel like if I start with these, I might be able to better articulate what I like/dislike about each and come back for additional input.
    Overall those are good choices to start with. Moschino Pour Homme would be another good pick.
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  27. #27
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    Default Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Ifti View Post
    Gucci Guilty Absolute perhaps?
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  28. #28

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Singularious View Post
    Sounds like a bit of a hidden gem!
    Certainly is.

    Your initial testing list is a good one.
    I was going to suggest the Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur (violet+leather), Knize Ten (floral leather), and Etro Gomma (sagebrush/artemisia + leather).
    Have you tried TF Ombre Leather ? It is a bit monotone, though, and not quite cuir de russie.
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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    +1 for Bel Ami. Great leather fragrance. Especially the original and second version.
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  30. #30

    Default Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Dior leather oud. Try it before it’s gone. This one is not powdery but woody and smokey. And dry.




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