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  1. #1
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    Default How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    It's been five years since Lauder acquired Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle. Is there a consensus as to how this line has fared under new management? I'm wondering what Basenoters have observed, comparing pre- and post-Lauder formulations. Has the quality been maintained?

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    I think that there were some reformulations, because of further IFRA restrictions, but overall I think the brand is doing well.

    EL did give the brand broader distribution, at least in the US.

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    Is there a consensus as to how this line has fared under new management?
    Don't know about any consensus, but for me the line has fared well.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    I like the improvements in availability and size options. As for the quality I don’t see why EL needs to tamper all that much with the formulas since ingredients /materials aren’t exactly a major cost component. Sometimes the ‘differences’ are mostly perceptual.
    “...too many among us die at thirty and are buried at eighty.” - Robin Sharma

  5. #5
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    I'm really glad to hear that you think the line is doing well, cacio and hednic.

    Diamondflame, just saw your reply - your points are well taken.

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Surprisingly some of the recent releases from Malle like Rose & Cuir were good.
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Surprisingly some of the recent releases from Malle like Rose & Cuir were good.
    I am relieved to hear that. Barney's closeout sale made me wonder if Malle was still worth the high pricepoint, even on discounted items.

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    I am relieved to hear that. Barney's closeout sale made me wonder if Malle was still worth the high pricepoint, even on discounted items.
    Speaking of Barney's, not sure if today was their last day according to their fliers.
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  9. #9

    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    When they moved into department stores which gives them a much wider audience.

    I am quite friendly with the SA at my local counter in House of Fraser, now she cannot get them to stock The Nigh(customers asking for it. This is Belfast) but Promise and Cuir & Rose came in really quickly upon release and selling She cannot keep POAL in stock, I was chatting with her last week and she sold all 20 bottles she had that week and awaiting more stock this week.

    Going by my chatting to the SAs I know Creed and Frederic Malle counter both counters along with Tom Ford but that is also makeup really do brilliantly sales wise. Now, HoF do have 20% in stores every so often and that is when people really will buy they had this last month. Frederic Malle sold £1000 in one day!
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Wow, donna255! That is amazing and encouraging. Lauder clearly has not been bad for Malle, as so many of us (myself included) feared it would be.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    I am glad they are in some of the larger department stores to be honest. Before that it was just one or two retailers that had them meaning they were less accessible.

    On the down side however, some scents have suffered but not all. There is good news basically and bad news.
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    I am glad they are in some of the larger department stores to be honest. Before that it was just one or two retailers that had them meaning they were less accessible.

    On the down side however, some scents have suffered but not all. There is good news basically and bad news.
    rum, which ones do you think have suffered? Are Iris Poudre, PoaL and Une Fleur de Cassie among them? I'd heard that PoaL was changed for the worse before the Lauder acquisition, but that many people still like it.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    rum, which ones do you think have suffered? Are Iris Poudre, PoaL and Une Fleur de Cassie among them? I'd heard that PoaL was changed for the worse before the Lauder acquisition, but that many people still like it.
    I think MR has of those that I own and like, but strangely French Lover is fine.
    PoaL changed before the acquisition but I think it was for the better. One spray of the original and it would be enough to cause someone to faint. Far too strong. It's better balanced now and still quite long lasting.
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    I think MR has of those that I own and like, but strangely French Lover is fine.
    PoaL changed before the acquisition but I think it was for the better. One spray of the original and it would be enough to cause someone to faint. Far too strong. It's better balanced now and still quite long lasting.
    Thank you for your views, rum. It's a relief to hear that MR, French Lover and PoaL are still good, and in fact that you find PoaL better now than it used to be. My PoaL was purchased around the time of the acquisition, and I don't have another bottle to compare it to - it's strong, but not the powerhouse I've read about.

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    When they moved into department stores which gives them a much wider audience.

    I am quite friendly with the SA at my local counter in House of Fraser, now she cannot get them to stock The Nigh(customers asking for it. This is Belfast) but Promise and Cuir & Rose came in really quickly upon release and selling She cannot keep POAL in stock, I was chatting with her last week and she sold all 20 bottles she had that week and awaiting more stock this week.

    Going by my chatting to the SAs I know Creed and Frederic Malle counter both counters along with Tom Ford but that is also makeup really do brilliantly sales wise. Now, HoF do have 20% in stores every so often and that is when people really will buy they had this last month. Frederic Malle sold £1000 in one day!
    FM is strange with The Night. So far as I know it has never been sold in Canada but they brought The Dawn in quickly and at what would be the same price point. One sales associate did claim that The Dawn came to Canada as a shipping mistake! It has been getting restocked. Ask for The Night all you want and it just won't happen. Rose & Cuir and The Moon were both delayed but finally showed and have been getting restocked. A sales associate had shared some sales figures and the numbers were staggering. Locally only one retailer sold the FM line. This fall SAKS added FM to their core flagship location so the area is very well served and they hit on an exceptionally wide audience. Even with the number of sales locations (4 in all) some FM scents do sell out and the wait for restock can be many weeks. FM is doing well. I had foolishly avoided the brand for years and was finally drawn in with the Desert Gems.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    Frederic Malle sold £1000 in one day!
    So they sold 3 bottles?

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    I read a lot of reviews, that a lot of fragrances were reformulated and are just a ghosts of what they used to be.
    Personally I smelled a few Malles and was hugely disappointed - faint, weak, plain and boring scents

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Glad to hear the consensus has been positive. All my purchases were pre lauder direct from France. For some reason I just haven't dipped in the water lately for this brand as I have been experiencing other houses.

  19. #19

    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Personally and thus from a certainly subjective viewpoint alone, must admit to have been quite pleased with this particular niche house, both pre and post Lauder-so far not being able to detect luckily no dramatic change nor decrease in their quality (which is already and constantly, as well known here on BN, a very good one).

    Along with no dramatic, quantum leap increase with, though mostly because there may be very little to change nor improve about an already beforehand great fragrance house/brand in general.
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Personally and thus from a certainly subjective viewpoint alone, must admit to have been quite pleased with this particular niche house, both pre and post Lauder-so far not being able to detect luckily no dramatic change nor decrease in their quality (which is already and constantly, as well known here on BN, a very good one).

    Along with no dramatic, quantum leap increase with, though mostly because there may be very little to change nor improve about an already beforehand great fragrance house/brand in general.
    I'm really glad to hear that Lauder didn't cheapen them, I was really afraid of that because the current versions of Azurée, Cinnabar and Youth Dew smell very different than vintage bottles (with the exception of Youth Dew bath oil, which is as wonderful as ever).

  21. #21
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    I have smelled the current versions of Iris Poudre and Le Parfum de Thérèse and find them to be shadows of their former selves. I will never repurchase them.

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by cazaubon View Post
    I have smelled the current versions of Iris Poudre and Le Parfum de Thérèse and find them to be shadows of their former selves. I will never repurchase them.
    Thank you for that input - I have never smelled either of them, and was especially curious about Iris Poudre because I love iris.

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    I am glad they are in some of the larger department stores to be honest. Before that it was just one or two retailers that had them meaning they were less accessible.

    On the down side however, some scents have suffered but not all. There is good news basically and bad news.

    Maybe they'll consider moving Malle into my local Neimans or Saks. I've heard some Neimans started carrying Malle.
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I've heard some Neimans started carrying Malle.
    The Niemans by me has always carried Frederic Malle.
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    The Niemans by me has always carried Frederic Malle.
    I wish I could say it was because there was a Barney's New York but I don't think that's the reason.
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  26. #26

    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    The ones ive tried recently have been excellent. I have The Night, The Moon, Rose and Cuir and perhaps Dries Van Noten on my to buy list. I am surviving with a decant of The NIght and the moon for now until i sell a couple of bottles to fund their purchase. A tiny bit goes a LONG way with these ones.

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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by papillo View Post
    The ones ive tried recently have been excellent. I have The Night, The Moon, Rose and Cuir and perhaps Dries Van Noten on my to buy list. I am surviving with a decant of The NIght and the moon for now until i sell a couple of bottles to fund their purchase. A tiny bit goes a LONG way with these ones.
    Thank you, papillo. The fact that a little still goes a long way offsets their cost somewhat. I bought my Carnal Flower and PoaL around the time of the acquisition, so I don't know if they were old or new stock, but they are super potent.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    I bought my PoaL shortly before the takeover, and the longevity and sillage are dialled down more than a few notches compared to the powerhouse it was when it came out.
    A significant change occurred with the change of the caps.

    I think if you like iris, do try Iris Poudre, it is only painful if one knows the old version...

    In the case of Une Fleur de Cassie however, it is a tragedy how it really has been butchered.
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  29. #29

    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by cazaubon View Post
    I have smelled the current versions of Iris Poudre and Le Parfum de Thérèse and find them to be shadows of their former selves. I will never repurchase them.
    I have the originals of both. Not even tried Therese current version, part of me was frightened. But I was surprised with Iris Poudre as I was given a sample and to me, it was the same as the one I had. I thought they might have softened it down to a more fresher iris but no.
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    Default Re: How has Malle Fared, Post-Lauder?

    Quote Originally Posted by Amelia Koenigsberg View Post
    I bought my PoaL shortly before the takeover, and the longevity and sillage are dialled down more than a few notches compared to the powerhouse it was when it came out.
    A significant change occurred with the change of the caps.
    Yes Portrait Of A Lady was much better at the time of the original release, prior to the cap changes as you've indicated.

    I would also add Carnal Flower and Musc Ravager other notable names also suffered.
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