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Thread: Fougere/amber

  1. #1

    Lightbulb Fougere/amber

    hello good afternoon, my name is maximilian and i am from argentina. before i begin i apply for my english as it is not the best.

    I am designed a male fougere / amber aroma, with a certain intensity and longevity, and above all economic since the designs that I elaborate for sale.

    Basically I have summarized the formula, after several tests, to this formula:


    cedryl acetate 0,001
    geranyl acetate 0,001
    isobornyl acetate 0,010
    linalyl acetate 0,013
    styralyl acetate 0,002
    alpha-terpinyl acetate 0,001
    bergamote synth 0,020
    vetiver synth 0,004
    aldehyde c10 0,005
    10-undecenal (aldehyde C-11 undecylenic) 0,003
    aldehyde C12 L 0,005
    cyclamen aldehyde 0,010
    alpha-hexyl cinnamaldehyde 0,009
    methyl anthranilate 0,005
    Boisambrene Forte / Amber decane 0,007
    ethylene brassylate 0,052
    cedramber/cedrol methyl ether 0,002
    cedarwood oil virginia 0,005
    celestolide / crysolide 0,002
    citronellol aj 0,015
    dihydromyrcenol 0,043
    freesia heptanol / dimetol 0,020
    dpg 0,220
    exaltolide total 0,013
    florol / floral pyranol 0,020
    musk 50 / galaxolide 50% 0,043
    geranium oil bourbon 0,003
    hedione 0,080
    ocean propanal / helional 0,001
    hydroxycitronellal 0,003
    alpha-ionone 0,009
    Iso e super 0,200
    isoeugenol 0,007
    ginger root oil 0,003
    kephalis 0,005
    grosso lavandin oil 0,010
    Lilial / lysmeral 0,012
    lemon oil tucuman 0,010
    linalool 0,022
    mint oil 0,010
    oakmoss absolute 0,003
    patchouly oil 0,004
    black pepper oil 0,002
    santol pentenol / polysantol 0,005
    raspberry ketone 10% 0,013
    amyl salicylate 0,002
    benzyll salicylate 0,017
    sandela / sandenol 0,032
    triplal 0,001
    vertofix cou0,013

    the result itself is to my liking but I can't accentuate the masculine side to the mix, try adding more woody or tobacco notes but the result is not as expected. I hope to get your opinions about it. Regards.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Fougere/amber

    maybe use less raspberry ketone? raspberry ketone can be pretty feminine
    try using less salicylate

    Do you think the floral pyranol could be part of the problem?

    I noticed you used black pepper. If you want a masculine peppery woody-incense peppery, maybe try beta-caryophellyene instead.
    Looking at your list of ingredients, Mysore Acetate would probably be a good one to add as well (though that will not have any effect on how masculine/feminine it is).

    I'm not sure you need Hedione in there. That could be making it too floral diffusive.
    You could toss out the styrallyl acetate as well. You already have enough other acetates.

    You have added a lot of lavender materials and fresh floral materials in there. That is no doubt part of the reason you are now feeling it is smelling too feminine.

    Maybe increase the amount of virginiana cedar wood

    Also see this thread for masculine-smelling essential oils:

  3. #3
    Basenotes Plus
    pkiler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Southern California

    Default Re: Fougere/amber

    Looking at it in percentages usually helps me to analyze it better:

    cedryl acetate 0.0010gr 0.10%
    geranyl acetate 0.0010gr 0.10%
    isobornyl acetate 0.0100gr 0.98%
    linalyl acetate 0.0130gr 1.27%
    styralyl acetate 0.0020gr 0.20%
    alpha-terpinyl acetate 0.0010gr 0.10%
    bergamote synth 0.0200gr 1.95%
    vetiver synth 0.0040gr 0.39%
    aldehyde c10 0.0050gr 0.49%
    10-undecenal (aldehyde C-11 undecylenic) 0.0300gr 2.93%
    aldehyde C12 L 0.0050gr 0.49%
    cyclamen aldehyde 0.0100gr 0.98%
    alpha-hexyl cinnamaldehyde 0.0090gr 0.88%
    methyl anthranilate 0.0050gr 0.49%
    Boisambrene Forte / Amber decane 0.0070gr 0.68%
    ethylene brassylate 0.0520gr 5.07%
    cedramber/cedrol methyl ether 0.0020gr 0.20%
    cedarwood oil virginia 0.0050gr 0.49%
    celestolide / crysolide 0.0020gr 0.20%
    citronellol 0.0150gr 1.46%
    dihydromyrcenol 0.0430gr 4.20%
    freesia heptanol / dimetol 0.0200gr 1.95%
    dpg 0.2200gr 21.46%
    exaltolide total 0.0130gr 1.27%
    florol / floral pyranol 0.0200gr 1.95%
    musk 50 / galaxolide 50% 0.0430gr 4.20%
    geranium oil bourbon 0.0030gr 0.29%
    hedione 0.0800gr 7.80%
    ocean propanal / helional 0.0010gr 0.10%
    hydroxycitronellal 0.0030gr 0.29%
    alpha-ionone 0.0090gr 0.88%
    Iso e super 0.2000gr 19.51%
    isoeugenol 0.0070gr 0.68%
    ginger root oil 0.0030gr 0.29%
    kephalis 0.0050gr 0.49%
    grosso lavandin oil 0.0100gr 0.98%
    Lilial / lysmeral 0.0120gr 1.17%
    lemon oil tucuman 0.0100gr 0.98%
    linalool 0.0220gr 2.15%
    mint oil 0.0100gr 0.98%
    oakmoss absolute 0.0030gr 0.29%
    patchouly oil 0.0040gr 0.39%
    black pepper oil 0.0020gr 0.20%
    santol pentenol / polysantol 0.0050gr 0.49%
    raspberry ketone 10% 0.0130gr 1.27%
    amyl salicylate 0.0020gr 0.20%
    benzyl salicylate 0.0170gr 1.66%
    sandela / sandenol 0.0320gr 3.12%
    triplal 0.0010gr 0.10%
    vertofix couer 0.0130gr 1.27%

    One thing that I see is that there are a whole lot of C-aldehydes. I think that those might be cut substantially.

    The Methyl Anthranilate, I think is counter productive, and will make problems with all of your aldehydes, completely exhausting your supply of MA, reacting and making schiff bases in the perfume, many of them approaching orange blossom in odor. I think it should be removed entirely.

    I think you could easily add Cetalox at 3-6%, and Ambrocenide 10% at 0.2%

    The Isoeugenol dose is really really high.
    Change the Alpha ionone to Beta ionone.
    Delete the Raspberry Ketone.
    Your 4 Lily of the valley notes might need to come down, and the Cedar/Cedryl could go up.

    And I'm not sure why you need 21.5% of DPG.

    Those are my thoughts for you... Take or toss, up to you.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Fougere/amber

    Thank you very much for your returns, I will take into account your contributions have helped me a lot. I am new to this website but I will surely share my formulas with you if you find it interesting.
    I will be doing some tests in the following days, I will see what happens and how the aroma behaves and I will share the results

  5. #5
    Super Member Finelikeanoyster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    In a imaginative idyllic place

    Default Re: Fougere/amber

    Hi Maxi

    I'm not the best here to give you directions. I think your formula is a fresh to ozonic with woodsy body, work rounding in the iso e super.
    If your fourmula is not feminine or masculine, don't have much problem, but you can accentuates the masculine side adding more cedar (cedryl acetate too to not turn expensive). Also i reccomend add vetiver, leathery notes, or incense/smoky notes, but leather is the best i think.

    Also the problem are with the rasp. ketone, try to substitute to other fruit note. Beta ionone can equilabrates the alfa ionone, but a violet note are comming, you can substitutes how PKiler says. I like aldehydes especialy the c-12 L, about the others i do not have an opinion, aldehydes give difusiveness and a fine peppery aspect, but much in is not cool.

    Adding more base notes, you need more diffusive notes to make the projection good. A bit of okoumal appears to be good, veramoss is good, but the dry aspect can turn in the presence with cedry acetate, in the dry down. Notes like cardamom, thym is fine too. Justly some thoughts
    Seven years and i'm loved oakmoss, even not knowing what it is
    Currently wearing: Tai Winds by Avon

  6. #6

    Default Re: Fougere/amber

    Agree w the others, and I'd ditch the DPG. Fill it out with Iso E Super / Vertofix / Cedar and you should be headed to masculine territory much more quickly.

    In my head when it comes to designing for gender, typically I associate Iso E Super w Masculine and Hedione with feminine (or unisex). I'd at least have the Iso E Super at 2:1 with Hedione for more masculine (which you're well above), but there is no rule, obviously it depends on everything in your perfume.

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