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  1. #91
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Thought I would post some more notes on our animalic samples. Last weekend, I had a chance to do a three-way test of Bal a Versailles, Kouros, and Yatagan, on both paper and skin, along with a bottle of celery seed. Kouros is the bridge between the other two: it evolves from a BaV-like opening to a Yatagan-like drydown.

    3A2FBFEA-F862-4C1B-A4C2-72BEEC23E255.jpg


    Kouros and BaV are very similar in their openings, emitting thick fugs of musky, civet-y orange blossom and castoreum but they diverge fairly soon. Kouros begins to reveal an oily birch tar leather, followed by a sharper isobutyl quinoline facet and finally a smoky suede. Meanwhile, BaV becomes more and more honeyed and floral, with heliotrope and carnation joining the orange blossom. This three-way comparison made me very aware of the heliotrope in BaV, which seems to be the main source of LiveJazz’s resistance to the enveloping embrace of BaV.

    Meanwhile, Yatagan is off doing its own thing, forcefully herbal at the outset, dark green, aromatic and bracing in comparison to thick resinous notes of Kouros and BaV. Yagatan’s greenness seems to be made up of pine, artemisia, and a spice note that smells more like a touch of cumin to me than the “infamous” celery seed. It’s okay with me either way. Interestingly, both Yatagan and Kouros share the artemisia/wormwood note, although Yatagan has more of it. I’ve grown different types of artemisias and they have a bitter, woody, slightly licorice-like scent. (Niki de Saint Phalle (1978) is my reference wormwood, but there’s good artemisia in Rogue’s Mousse Illuminee too.)

    By the very end of their evolution, Kouros and Yatagan have converged, becoming astringently leathery and almost indistinguishable on skin and especially on paper, while BaV is still pumping out its musky, sweet, floral song.
    Currently wearing: Alliage by Estée Lauder

  2. #92

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Wow, grayspoole, thanks for the notes on your investigations with BaV, Kouros, and Yatagan! Interesting the commonalities you sussed out - artemisia, the overlapping openings in BaV and Kouros, but then the crossover and converging Kouros and Yatagan. It helps me to imagine a colored graphic representing the various paths you describe of each fragrance from start to dry down.

    Regarding the pencils I get from Insense - I know pencils are made from cedar but I've never really gotten any"cedar closet" stuff from a real pencil, especially chewing on it. I'm straining to ID the wood in Insense as as specifically fir even though people call that out. It seems natural and convincing but generic, essential "wood" to me - light wood and fairly dry. Not rich, milky, or dark as sandalwood may be, not aromatic as cedar. I need to go for another smelling walk in our woods - smell the trees and cones.

    Hope you report your mastic experience if you decide to do it. I see mastic can suggest wood, galbanum, and citrus among other things. That is quite a range so it could express itself in some interesting ways.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Cinnabar by Estée Lauder

  3. #93

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    ...all I could think of was it reminded me of the 90'’s right at that point, and for some reason I needed to put on Dune. To me Incence has that kind of strangeness that Dune has, even though the two fragrances don't really share notes (I looked up the vintage notes because the current Basenotes for Dune didn't seem right). I've been on a side trip today wearing Dune on the left and Incense on the right and they are working together like a random pot and lid with a good fit.
    I just love this reference to Dune, and totally get it. Like Insense, Dune presents what might be a fairly typical style (floral amber) is a totally headspinning way, and like Insense, I think it relies on the clever use of dry aldehydes to do it. And like Insense, the result is both assertive and somewhat disorienting.

    It's telling how clever this stuff is when a reference to Dune and a reference to Givenchy III (per grayspoole) both make perfect sense to me.

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    The mix of aldehydes, basil, and fruit on the top is balanced so as to not be too bright, too herbal, too astringent, or too sweet; the floral combination is unusual, and thankfully not so dominated by the lily of the valley as to become cloying; the base is woody without leaning either too piney or too sawdusty. In fact, the whole affair seems to be about subsuming the identity of the ingredients to that of the blend

    ...

    I appreciated that it walked a different path from most other fragrances I've tried without doing anything gimmicky or extreme to achieve it. [...] it seemed more like one of those natural eccentric personalities who, while not especially warm and fuzzy, are all the more appealing for their unmannered quirks.
    This is exactly how I feel about Insense when I catch it on a good day.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    In its early stages, Insense also has a bitter vegetal note that reminds me of the tomato leaf note in Eau de Campagne, another summer staple of mine. Think of the somewhat rank smell of tomato plants in the hot sun.

    ...

    Insense is well known as a masculine floral, but from my point of view over here on the other side of the gender divide, Insense isn’t very floral at all. Now I do love a LOTV perfume, and Insense does qualify, but LOTV is more of a sharp green, soapy note than a flower. “Magnolia” is a difficult floral note to pin down, in my opinion, since it is a large botanical genus with much variation (some magnolias are almost unscented), so the note is almost a fantasy note that can be interpreted in many different ways in perfumery. I asked my New Orleans-born DH if he smelled Southern magnolia flowers in Insense and he said yes, so I’ll agree to their presence.

    But there’s some really interesting woody/coniferous stuff in Insense—pine, fir, or, as it is said, mastic.
    To me, LOTV reads as a "watery" note. I'm not sure if this is how real live LOTV smells, or if it's just typically used that way in perfume. Anyway, it's not a note I usually like very much. And tomato leaf (which I enjoy) also reads as "wet/vegetal" in most cases. I think Insense reads as "masculine" because it somehow totally parches those notes and presents them in a woody/soapy context, with their "floralness" extracted...particularly with the help of dry evergreen/astringent mastic.

    PS Baruti's Berlin im Winter is a masterclass on creative mastic usage.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    This three-way comparison made me very aware of the heliotrope in BaV, which seems to be the main source of LiveJazz’s resistance to the enveloping embrace of BaV.
    You're absolutely right. With very few exceptions (namely, Patou Ma Liberte), heliotrope is a no-no for me. Have I mentioned that, or was that a really good reading of my tastes!?
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  4. #94
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Sample 10 of 26 is Polo, the Cosmair or 2nd version, more leather and less tobacco than the first version.

    This is extremely well done, right in line with the best fragrances of the time, and one of the best times for fragrances, the 1970s. This is warm and smooth - only the best stuff is in here, moss, patchouli and the like.

    It’s brilliant, but how brilliant? I think it just falls short of my very favorites, Givenchy Gentleman, Chanel Antaeus, and Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree. It’s so ubiquitous, which could be considered a negative for someone hoping for uniqueness, but it’s a positive for someone wanting a taste of the best of men’s fragrances.

    Some of the reformulations have not been ok. We picked up a 1-ounce travel spray around 2014 and threw it away after a couple tries.

  5. #95

    Default Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Here's our hero for today, Ralph Lauren Polo (Cosmair version), complete with a bonus bathrobe selfie:


    This scent can be somewhat difficult to review because there's so much cultural baggage attached to it. Apparently it was massively popular with the young crowd in the 80s. It has a reputation (like that of Ralph Lauren itself) as being a bit WASPy. It's really difficult to detach it from that imagery. I'm too young to have been bombarded by it in high school, but even so, when I first formally sampled Polo, it's distinctive enough that my immediate reaction was "ohhhh, this, I know this."

    Anyway, WASPy baggage or not, I really like it. It just smells great. I love the use of evergreen notes here, and as the pyramid notes, it specifically represents fresh pine needles, which are astringent, fresh, and very green. This is combined with other green/astringent herbs and florals (geranium, artemisia, lavender, basil) to create a lasting cool freshness that is just stupendous in my book.

    That zingy green/herbal pine needle layer is expertly paired with a darker tobacco/leather accord that adds a traditional, somewhat formal air to the proceedings, and as I mentioned before, reminds me of a gentleman's club (the country variety, not of the stripping variety) with nice old leather furniture and a humidor. Not that I have ever been in such a club, but anyway... A dash of cumin lightly suggests a body, but I don't consider Polo animalic or dirty. More like "lived in". Really, this darker layer just provides a foundation and prevents Polo from being a green-pine soliflore. It's structured, but not dark or heavy; it smells bright but also inviting, warm and honest.

    ~~

    Technically, I see the relationship with Insense here. They both share the presence of pine and astringent/green florals...but the overall effect is so different. It's like if you put a traditional portrait painter and a boundary-pushing modernist painter in studios with a similar basic palette of materials. You'd see the overlap, but only if you were looking for it.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 19th January 2020 at 02:43 AM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  6. #96
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Polo is one of two fragrances to which the Divine Mrs. S. issued a flat "no" in advance. So, "smell club" is the only way I'm going to get to try it in good conscience. Too bad we don't have a Warner to compare to the Cosmair. (The other fragrance was Aramis, which I bought anyway, but she didn't respond to it too badly the one day I wore it. This may be because she likes Cabochard; and perhaps the men who wore it in her youth overindulged.)

    I'll let you know how it goes!

    UPDATE: Mrs. S. responded positively to a blind sniff, and was stunned when I told her, "this is Polo." She remembered Polo as an aggressively piney green scent—perhaps something between Pine-Sol and Zino Davidoff—like the soliflore LiveJazz observes Polo isn't, thanks to the "gentlemen's club" leather and tobacco. I don't know if this is because she remembers a later (or earlier) iteration of Polo, or if her nose was more tweaked by pine notes back in the day. In any case, my Polo prohibition has been lifted: a victory for Smell Club! This is good news for me, as I quite like Polo (at least this Cosmair version), and I can smell its resemblance to numerous other fragrances I've acquired and enjoyed.

    I don't sense anything daring about Polo, which wouldn't have been Ralph Lauren's aim, anyway. Lauren was always a fantasist; imagining some exalted, WASP-y background, be it English nobility or an über-cowboy ruling over the vast American frontier. He understood these fantasies as only an outsider can, giving him a keen sense of how to sell it to the rest of the hoi polloi—and even back to the elites. The genius of Polo is that it smells how we imagine wealth might smell, yet it remains both aesthetically and fiscally accessible. As a result, it is at once luxurious and familiar.

    Polo is far from the most interesting fragrance I own, and would never be my signature. But, it's a damned fine fragrance: the quintessential "dumb reach" of its generation, and (at least in its vintage form) still functional as such today.
    Last edited by PStoller; 18th January 2020 at 01:21 AM.
    Currently wearing: Jasmin Kâma by Rania J

  7. #97
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Apparently it was massively popular with the young crowd in the 80s.
    It was huge.

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I love the use of evergreen notes here, and as the pyramid notes, it specifically represents fresh pine needles, which are astringent, fresh, and very green. This is combined with other green/astringent herbs and florals (geranium, artemisia, lavender, basil) to create a lasting cool freshness that just's stupendous in my book. That zingy green/herbal pine needle layer is expertly paired with a darker tobacco/leather accord that adds a traditional, somewhat formal air to the proceedings, and as I mentioned before, reminds me of a gentleman's club (the country variety, not of the stripping variety) with nice old leather furniture and a humidor. Not that I have ever been in such a club, but anyway... A dash of cumin lightly suggests a body, but I don't consider Polo animalic or dirty. More like "lived in". Really, this darker layer just provides a foundation and prevents Polo from being a green-pine soliflore. It's structured, but not dark or heavy; it smells bright but also inviting, warm and honest.
    Honest is a big compliment. I like how you describe it. I agree with the lot.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Bravo on this picture!

  8. #98
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    So much has been written about vintage Polo that I am going to go with my usual off-the-wall commentary. You don’t need any more note lists from me.

    Ralph Lauren’s popularization of preppy style has peculiar resonance for me. Born in the Bronx, never finishing college himself, Lauren made his fortune by skillfully repackaging WASP and upperclass visual tropes for mass consumption. As PStoller has noted, Lauren is a powerful “fantasist.” When I arrived at Princeton in 1979 as first generation college student, a feminist, punk rock loving, Italian American from NYC, assimilation was never my goal. I wore my CBGB’s t-shirt as a badge of honor. But some of my friends were authentic prep school graduates. I remember asking a dear friend in horror if she was really going to wear a floor length tartan skirt with a button down oxford shirt and ancient LL Bean blucher mocs to a dance party. (Eventually, she started borrowing my clothes.) I do understand why many other first gen folks pored over the The Official Preppy Handbook (1980) like scripture. I also think many elements of preppy fashion are great, like a black Lacoste polo, good loafers, a white shirt, a well cut blazer. So although I am willing to find enjoyment in just about any perfume, I am going to have to draw the line at Polo. It feels so painfully aspirational to me, so associated with cis-gender male identity, that I could never wear it in public.

    Here are some notes after all...

    Rather surprisingly, I get a clear stanky feet note in the first seconds of application. I’m not sure how Polo landed in our casually drawn up aldehydic floral/woody category, but I don’t think it fits there. I also don’t think overt stank is part of the Polo brief, but it is probably just the very first blast of an ingredient. Soon (a minute or two) it softens into the pine which is certainly very rich and enjoyable. There is some underlying warmth and sweetness, along with the slightest hint of that initial stank. About an hour or two in, Polo puts out a solid, unified buzz of pine and warm woodiness from my single dab in my elbow. I think that Polo has a slug or two of Iso E Super or ambroxan, providing a foundation to other good quality ingredients. I have no problem with WAC used in this way, just can’t stand them straight. I don’t perceive much complexity to the smell in this middle stage, but Live Jazz, I do see how you get tobacco/humidor from Polo.

    I am sure vintage Polo lasts and lasts, but I am washing it off for today. Multiple sprays of vintage Polo would definitely make a statement. I may attempt another test of this classic to see if I can learn more. Thanks so much for the vintage sample LiveJazz!
    Currently wearing: Alliage by Estée Lauder

  9. #99
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    I'm reminded of throwing Polo Red into a blind sample pass. That was a good one to try blind.

    The only Polo or Ralph Lauren fragrance I ever wear is Cosmair Polo. I've tried modern Safari for Men, and I imagine the original might have been nice.

    I agree that Polo uses IsoESuper type fixatives to good effect. This could help explain a connection I feel between Polo and Fahrenheit, which took IsoESuper just slightly too far for the wearer, I think, because it gives me olfactory fatigue.

  10. #100

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    I’m really enjoying Polo. Aspirational is a good word, but really applies to my memory of it, not my current wearing.

    I will join grayspoole with a story -
    In 1983-84 my now husband and I, newly married, moved away from home to the big city - well, certainly a bigger one than where we grew up and went to high school together. We were happy to be young and upwardly mobile professionals (YUPPY). We lived in a tiny one bedroom apartment with a marble coffee table and leather couch bought on credit from a high end danish furniture store. Each workday we would pack our brown-bag lunches and put on our uniforms, which for him was suit and tie, for me was a skirt and jacket. There was no such thing as business casual. Part of our dress was Polo and the female counterpart, Lauren. We didn’t directly identify with the people in the Ralph Lauren ads because that look was not our thing, especially off the clock, but the ideal of success that brings ease was certainly something that played out in our heads. I mean, who doesn’t want that? I think we were one of the sweet spots for their marketing.

    All these years later we have landed where we have landed pretty much and I take Polo at face value without all the fantasy and aspirational baggage, and today it smells great! I recall a sharper opening, and honestly don’t recall it being this good. I’m loving the pine and woods and mellow smoky leather and tobacco wrapping itself around me like a wing-backed chair. Maybe it is just that I have had some years to figure out that these are some of my favorite smells. Polo is put up as being very masculine, but I wouldn’t have a problem wearing this at all

    EDIT - Put it on husband and he recognized it immediately. Now we are both wearing it. Awesome....
    Thanks, LiveJazz!
    Currently wearing: Cinnabar by Estée Lauder

  11. #101
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    I picked up a bottle of Warner-era Polo on eBay to celebrate the lifting of the ban, and to satisfy my curiosity about the differences between 1st and 2nd generation Polo.

    Grayspoole and I both went off to college from NYC in 1979, but while I was also not much for assimilation, I was a prog-rocker studying composition at Berklee, so the whole prep thing was irrelevant to me: it wasn't in close enough proximity for me to rebel against it. I paid little heed to fragrance at the time, so I was never conscious of the smell of Polo. I imagine Princeton was awash with it!

    Earlyn's reference to "uniforms" brings to mind my wife's assessment of the Polo clothing line: "Garanimals for men." To put it another way, it is (or at least was) the sartorial "dumb grab" for the American male.

    OTOH, Grayspoole's reference to floor-length tartan just makes me think of Alexander McQueen. I got to see the retrospective show at the Victoria & Albert Museum a few years back, and it was glorious.

    And now, to try Lenthéric Miracle.
    Currently wearing: Jasmin Kâma by Rania J

  12. #102
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    I have both Cosmair and Warner now. I did not use fragrance prior to 2018 at all. Never not even once.

    So this is all new to me.

    Warner has a depth in the beautiful opening and it lasts much longer on the topnotes than Cosmair does. And I can understand why Polo Green was such a touchstone fragrance.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  13. #103

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Great stories and keen observations about Ralph Lauren’s cultural positioning! I feel like Polo is especially representative of that aesthetic, somehow. Though I’ve never had particularly strong feelings for or against the “prep” look and lifestyle (or personal exposure to it), for a long time I didn’t feel like myself wearing Polo. Happily, I have made peace with Polo and it no longer wears me!

    I never specifically picked up WAC in Polo, but they would certainly help explain the extended “brightness” I experience. If they are responsible, they were used masterfully and make the scent, driving home the juxtaposition of the bright-outdoorsy and the traditional elements.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 19th January 2020 at 04:49 AM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  14. #104
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    In 1983-84 my now husband and I, newly married, moved away from home to the big city - well, certainly a bigger one than where we grew up and went to high school together. We were happy to be young and upwardly mobile professionals (YUPPY)...Each workday we would pack our brown-bag lunches and put on our uniforms, which for him was suit and tie, for me was a skirt and jacket. There was no such thing as business casual. Part of our dress was Polo and the female counterpart, Lauren. We didn’t directly identify with the people in the Ralph Lauren ads because that look was not our thing, especially off the clock, but the ideal of success that brings ease was certainly something that played out in our heads.
    Love this story of you and your DH heading out together each morning to conquer the world, in Polo and Lauren!

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    sI paid little heed to fragrance at the time, so I was never conscious of the smell of Polo. I imagine Princeton was awash with it!
    I believe it was. Meanwhile, I was rocking dark brown patchouli paste from an unlabeled jar that a friend brought back from travels in the Middle East (I’d love to find this stuff again!) and Tiger Balm, applied to the middle of the forehead to create the sensation of a burning third eye. Pungent, I was.

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Great stories and keen observations about Ralph Lauren’s cultural positioning! I feel like Polo is especially representative of that aesthetic, somehow. Though I’ve never had particularly strong feelings for or against the “prep” look and lifestyle (or personal exposure to it), for a long time I didn’t feel like myself wearing Polo. Happily, I have made peace with Polo and it no longer wears me!.
    I believe you represent a younger audience for Polo, Live Jazz, am I right? You can appreciate it without all of the cultural baggage.
    Currently wearing: Alliage by Estée Lauder

  15. #105
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Scherrer by Scherrer (1979)

    Jean-Louis Scherrer (1935-2013) was never a household word in the US, at least in my circle. Scherrer trained at Dior in the 1950’s, where he worked beside the young Yves Saint Laurent. As Saint Laurent attempted to lead Dior after the master's death, Scherrer went on to open his own couture house in 1962. In the 1970’s and 1980’s, Scherrer was a designer of great refinement, dressing an international clientele that included Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Nan Kempner, and Sophia Loren. In 1992, Scherrer was unceremoniously fired, "like a streetsweeper," as he put it. Lawsuits were filed by both sides. The event attracted considerable attention because it was the first time a designer had been dismissed from his own house. (Scherrer had sold most of his company to external investors, including Hermès.) At the time, it was shocking to see that fashion was just another business with no need to preserve the aura of the artist, as long as control of a marketable name could be retained. We are used to this now.

    Given Scherrer’s almost tragic fall into obscurity as a designer, it is really almost a miracle that his eponymous perfume, hereafter Scherrer 1, is still available today, in versions that are close to the original despite the reformulations due to ingredient restrictions. Scherrer 1 is a benchmark green chypre, a style of perfume that has been out of fashion for so long that it is almost back on the cutting edge, as contemporary perfumers begin to explore greens again.

    Scherrer 1 is a forceful bitter green scent anchored by beautiful woods and deep moss. Floral accents are fairly subtle and tightly woven into the overall composition, but one can distinguish touches of hyacinth, rose, and jasmine. Old school sandalwood, vetiver, and oakmoss are the dominant basenotes, without much patchouli.

    Who was the unsung perfumer who created this beautiful perfume? According to Victoria Frolova, author of the Bois de Jasmin blog, Scherrer 1 was composed by Josette Ramisse, an IFF perfumer. Unfortunately, I have been unable to find additional information about Ramisse, but her formidable skills and taste are fully displayed in the composition.

    Looking forward to hearing what the “Smell Club” and anyone else who’s reading think of Scherrer 1!

    (This is an edited version of my post on the now defunct blog sponsored by Essenza Nobile, if it is giving you a feeling of
    déjà vu.
    Currently wearing: Alliage by Estée Lauder

  16. #106

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I believe you represent a younger audience for Polo, Live Jazz, am I right? You can appreciate it without all of the cultural baggage.
    Correct, I am an elder millennial. My millennium-straddling high school and college years ruined Acqua di Gio and aquatics instead of Polo and powerhouses. Our aspirations were informed more by dot-com shenanigans than old money aesthetics.

    I’m up skiing this weekend and forgot my sample kit, so I’ll read with interest and catch up next week!
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  17. #107
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I was rocking dark brown patchouli paste from an unlabeled jar that a friend brought back from travels in the Middle East (I’d love to find this stuff again!) and Tiger Balm, applied to the middle of the forehead to create the sensation of a burning third eye. Pungent, I was.
    See, that sounds like something all my hippie friends were doing. Since I wasn’t into pot or the Grateful Dead, my time in patchouli-drenched headshops was minimal. I did always have a little tin of Tiger Balm from the corner health food store. Probably, I got more than my fill of patch from my roommates’ and/or girlfriends’ incense sticks, but I never paid attention to what it was.
    Currently wearing: Jasmin Kâma by Rania J

  18. #108
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    See, that sounds like something all my hippie friends were doing. Since I wasn’t into pot or the Grateful Dead, my time in patchouli-drenched headshops was minimal. I did always have a little tin of Tiger Balm from the corner health food store. Probably, I got more than my fill of patch from my roommates’ and/or girlfriends’ incense sticks, but I never paid attention to what it was.
    I was so into pot and the Grateful Dead and other shenanigans.

    But I never once was into scent. I didn't even have patience for incense. Don't know why. Now I love it all.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    I needn't have worried about the suitability of Lenthéric Miracle. Per the Lenthéric blog entry that LiveJazz posted earlier in the thread:

    Top notes: bergamot, lemon, lilac, coriander, jasmine, rose geranium, hyssop, verbena
    Middle notes: carnation, lily, camphor, iris, lavender, rosemary, thyme, tarragon, sage, oregano, basil.
    Base notes: carrot seed, orris, pine, sandalwood, Moroccan cedar, patchouli, civet, vanilla, leather, oakmoss


    These are mostly notes I like (at least, those I can pick out), and those about which I'm less sanguine—lily, carrot, vanilla—never overwhelm the herb/floral mix, nor the woods, patchouli, civet, and oakmoss in the base. Ultimately, Miracle dries down to a powdery, musky vanilla that leans a bit more "old lady" than I like, but along the way it's delightful, if not especially distinctive, and easily unisex. The notes that created the biggest impression for me were the citrus, civet, and moss, along with a bouquet that seemed dominated by carnation and iris. I don't know how this was regarded in the roaring ’20s, but looking back from the early 21st century, she seems more starlet than star.

    I have enough vintage frags that scratch those itches without ending up in "nylons rather than support hose," as Earlyn puts it, so I don't know that I'd ever buy a FB of Miracle. Then again, the cologne is around for practically nothing, and one could do a lot worse than this stuff. Decisions, decisions…

    So, this week's ratings:

    1) Polo
    2) Insensé
    3) Écusson EdC
    4) Miracle
    5) Écusson parfum

    Untried/unrated: L’Interdit (en route)

    There's not a big ratings difference for me between the middle three, so they could end up rearranged after a later trial. The
    Insensé was the most interesting, if not necessarily the most satisfying. The Écusson EdC and Miracle are similar enough in my memory that they get jumbled a bit in my head, but the Écusson had the better drydown. The parfum, however, skewed away from what I liked most about the EdC in favor of what I liked least. Certainly not a bad scent, but absolutely not for me.
    Currently wearing: Jasmin Kâma by Rania J

  20. #110
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    The ratings are fun and good for summarizing impressions.

    From this round, my favorites were:

    1. Polo
    2. Ecusson
    3. Miracle
    4. Insense

    I liked the edc of Ecusson a little more based on one round of sampling, but I'm keeping them grouped.

    From the first round:

    1. Bal a Versailles
    2. Yatagan
    3. Note
    4. Lenteric Men's edc
    5. Kouros

    I liked Note.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Sample 11 of 26 is Scherrer by Scherrer, a nice floral fragrance. This smells traditionally feminine to me, beautiful and captivating. I get an image of an upscale flower shop, tastefully decorated. This is a heart breaker.

  22. #112
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Sample 11 of 26 is Scherrer by Scherrer, a nice floral fragrance. This smells traditionally feminine to me, beautiful and captivating. I get an image of an upscale flower shop, tastefully decorated. This is a heart breaker.
    Do you enjoy it? I personally love florals.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Do you enjoy it? I personally love florals.
    It sounds crazy to like having your heart broken, but yes. It's not the kind of thing that has broken into my rotation, but my domestic partner has some florals in this style, and I'm a fan.

    I'm curious if this one reminds anyone of anything from round 1?

  24. #114

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Ok, I'll go.

    Round 1:
    1. Yatagan
    2. Kouros (close to a tie)
    3. Note
    4. Lenthetic EDC
    5. Bal a Versailles

    Round 2:
    1. Polo
    2. Miracle
    3. Ecusson Parfum
    4. Insense (we have a complex relationship, which right now is in a waning phase)
    5. Ecusson EDC
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  25. #115
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Funny, with Scherrer, the first thing I got was the rose (a little jammy, a little dirty), and perhaps the tuberose. The famous green notes came after. I’m thinking the top may not be entirely intact in this sample, or perhaps it’s because the reviews I’m referencing are of the vintage, but no matter. It’s a lovely floral now, perhaps a hair on the sweet side for me, and I look forward to the blooming of the base.
    Currently wearing: Jasmin Kâma by Rania J

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Funny, with Scherrer, the first thing I got was the rose (a little jammy, a little dirty), and perhaps the tuberose. The famous green notes came after. I’m thinking the top may not be entirely intact in this sample, or perhaps it’s because the reviews I’m referencing are of the vintage, but no matter. It’s a lovely floral now, perhaps a hair on the sweet side for me, and I look forward to the blooming of the base.
    I like this kind of sweetness. As it develops, it turns a little laundry musky - at that point, with pretty much any laundry musk fragrance, the best is over. Those musks don't work well enough as fixatives to offset the loss of moss, etc.

    If someone embraces the laundry musks - maybe gets some glowing compliments on them - I could see having fun with it. I find myself thinking laundry musks are a decent alternative to moss, etc., but then they can also make me miss the earlier stages of the fragrances they're in, whereas a mossy base is typically the best part of a mossy perfume.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I like this kind of sweetness. As it develops, it turns a little laundry musky - at that point, with pretty much any laundry musk fragrance, the best is over. Those musks don't work well enough as fixatives to offset the loss of moss, etc.
    Yeah, I’m getting “laundry musk,” too. I have a feeling I’d be happier with an older iteration of the Scherrer, and possibly a different concentration. While the sample is nice, the reviews are consistently more interesting than this has turned out to be. The “greatest green chypre ever” isn’t what I’m smelling.
    Currently wearing: Jasmin Kâma by Rania J

  28. #118
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    As it develops, it turns a little laundry musky - at that point, with pretty much any laundry musk fragrance, the best is over. Those musks don't work well enough as fixatives to offset the loss of moss, etc.
    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Yeah, I’m getting “laundry musk,” too. I have a feeling I’d be happier with an older iteration of the Scherrer, and possibly a different concentration. While the sample is nice, the reviews are consistently more interesting than this has turned out to be. The “greatest green chypre ever” isn’t what I’m smelling.
    I see that you are both getting "laundry musk" from Scherrer. This is interesting. I would say that the notes in Scherrer do not align with my concept of laundry musk (for me, that's more White Linen or Caleche). What are your other references for a "laundry musk" perfume?

    I'm not sure that you would find the older EDT or parfum significantly different from the EDP to make it worth your while to seek them out. I like Scherrer a lot, and the different versions feel similar enough to me.
    Currently wearing: Alliage by Estée Lauder

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    …the notes in Scherrer do not align with my concept of laundry musk (for me, that's more White Linen or Caleche). What are your other references for a "laundry musk" perfume?
    I don't have a perfume reference for it. It just reminds me of laundry detergent (or, perhaps more accurately, dryer sheets) in a generic way. It's what I get left with in the drydown, rather than something I experience as such in the earlier phases. It's not unpleasant; it just doesn't wear especially well on me, and it's notably different from what many BN reviewers call out in the base. That's why I wondered about the vintage EDT or parfum, but I don't think I'd buy it just to satisfy that curiosity.
    Currently wearing: Jasmin Kâma by Rania J

  30. #120

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    I’ve been waiting to post, because I have had two hugely different experiences with Scherrer today. I think I am going to have to put it on again in the morning to see what happens.

    AM - Oh this is nice and green like I like it - sort of like Private Collection, and the flowers are balanced in the middle by the green that is shot through. I love my florals when they have the stems and leaves too. There’s a warmth similar to Givenchy lll that comes in briefly and after a while it gets slightly sweeter and plainly floral. Later I’m getting musky sweetness and light florals, green gone. Florals fade and musk stays, eventually there is a slight underpinning of sandalwood

    Time for a hot bath.

    PM - Reapply Scherrer - wait, What?! Is this the same fragrance? Checks bottle. Yes, but now it is not green - big sweet florals (SweetTarts), tuberose, not particularly indolic florals, not green florals, jasmine, almost tropical flowers but sweet and dry/puckery at the same time. Eventually it goes through the same very late middle and drydown as the AM wear.

    The second wearing florals reminded me of My Sin so I put some up against it but My Sin smells pretty filthy next to Scherrer and not so fruitish or dry/puckery. The floral presence is similarly powerful in both during my second wearing.

    I’m very intrigued by what happened. I’d like to put the sample on paper and then on 24 hr post shower skin again and see what happens. I have the kind of skin that tarnishes metal and rashes in costume jewelry so I’m wondering if the very dryness of un-moisturized post-bath skin, or the natural ph of pre-shower skin has effected how the notes lifted off in the two wearings. For the first 2/3 - 3/4 they seemed like different perfumes.

    My combined wearing notes - I really enjoyed the greenness of Private Collection in the AM and the warm translucent Givenchy lll moment which must have been due to hyacinth. I did like grandness of the PM flowers, but not so much their tropical sweetness however interesting that dry pucker was, and so preferred the less sweet version in the AM. I don’t think I’ve got a handle on laundry vs.other musks so I can’t call that out here, but the dry down in both wearings did smell of musk and sandalwood of a bright and light variety. The sandalwood was very nice, not as prominent as that in Samsara PDT but was a similar feel to the wood to me.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Cinnabar by Estée Lauder




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