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  1. #1
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    Default Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    This topic is a spin-off from another round of vintage sample exchanges. We will be testing and commenting on the following perfumes. If you own any of these, or variants thereof, please do not hesitate to join in.

    Animalic/Musk
    1918 Houbigant Note (G)

    1962 Desprez Bal a Versailles parfum (G)
    19?? Lentheric Menís Cologne EDC (B)
    1981 YSL Kouros (LJ)
    1978 Caron Yatagan (LJ)

    Floral Aldehydes/Woody
    1957 Givenchy LíInterdit vintage EDT(G)

    1947 DíAlbret Ecusson (1960ís) (E)
    1924 Lentheric Miracle cologne (E)
    1993 Givenchy Insense (LJ)
    1978 Lauren Polo Cosmair (LJ)

    Chypres
    1986 Scherrer by Scherrer current PDT(G)

    1972 Estee Lauder Aliage 1970ís-80ís (G)
    1915 DíOrsay Mystere (1950ís) parfum (E)
    1985 Lauder for Men (LJ)
    1981 Chanel Antaeus (LJ and B)

    Fruited/Spiced Chypres & Orientals
    1944 Rochas Femme PDT 1960ís-70ís (G)

    1922 Nuit de Noel EDT 1960ís-70ís (G)
    1935 Lelong Indiscret parfum and cologne (E)
    1936 Lentheric Shanghai (1960ís) cologne and parfum (E)
    1953 DíOrsay Divine parfum (E)
    1954 Ciro Ricochet parfum (E)

    Floral
    1933 Caron Fleurs de Rocaille EDT 1960ís-70ís (G)

    1927 Caron Pois de Senteur (E)
    2008 Guerlain Insolence EDP 2016 (G)
    1978 Chloť Chloť original parfum (E)
    1992 Chloť Narcisse(E)

    The list developed in an organic way and just represents samples we wished to exchange. The member providing the sample is identified by their initial and will be able to provide details regarding the bottle and perhaps a photo? Launch date is listed first, followed by approximate date of sample, when available. At some point, Earlyn and I begin categorizing the scents, but the classification is decidedly provisional and also up for debate.

    Looking forward to some good vintage discussions!
    Currently wearing: Alliage by Estťe Lauder

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Houbigant Note 1918

    First up, a perfume launched in 1918, from a bottle that I believe might be as old. The bottle was sealed when I received it and the perfume was in pretty good shape although somewhat worn out by age. No box to provide additional clues.

    2FC38044-D603-4E6D-862F-25C69B1A205D.jpg

    Note was composed by Robert Benaime in 1918, soon after he made Quelque Fleurs. I have no idea how long it was on the market, but I donít think it was sold for very long because you do not see it listed in vintage Houbigant ads, which are very plentiful in Vogue magazines from the early 20th century.

    Grace Hummel/Fetish for Perfume/Cleopatra's Boudoir lists Note on her Houbigant blog but doesnít provide any additional information. In a dialogue on Fragrantica, she added that she has not tested Note. Meanwhile, the Etsy seller Parfums de Paris provides the following notes for Note:.

    Top notes are Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Lily of the Valley, and Lilac
    Middle notes include Galbanum, Oak Moss, Neroli, Orange Blossom, and Lemon
    Base notes are Sandalwood, Musk, Vanilla, and Tonka Bean

    In an email exchange with me, Alexandra explained that she has not opened the bottle in her shop and obtained the note list from a friend who had some knowledge of vintage Houbigant perfumes.

    In my tests of Note, I get a fougere-like perfume, with lavender, rose, moss, and civet. It dries down warm and musky, with sweetness from tonka or vanilla. The long drydown is my favorite part. I'm reminded of Moment Supreme or Jicky, and I donít perceive strong floral notes other than rose.


    After clicking through the digital pages of many vintage Vogues, I thought I had finally found an ad for Note, but it was actually an ad for Mon Boudoir, also launched in 1918. As you can see, Mon Boudoir was presented in the same bottle and was said to be the favorite perfume of Marie of Romania (Iíve always been fond of her).

    44577F4F-9796-43F3-9DBE-596343C2A8D1.jpeg


    I have not tested Mon Boudoir, but the published notes that I have found describe ambergris and vanilla, which could fit the perfume in my bottle of Note. This has led me to wonder if Note was an Anglicized, and intentionally unsexy, name for Mon Boudoir when it was sold in England and America. Mon Boudoir has recently been remade and relaunched by Houbigant:

    https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Luc...ant-12591.html

    So there you have it...the mysterious Note. Iím curious to hear what the vintage synch gang thinks and anyone else who might have information.
    Currently wearing: Alliage by Estťe Lauder

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Don’t know about Note. But thank you for this wonderful sync thread. Looking forward to comments.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    I think Mon Boudoir was launched in 1919, which would make it unlikely that Note was a rebranding for uptight Anglos.

    In any case, I’m getting a thick rose and musk with perhaps a touch of muguet over tonka/vanilla. I would understand this being labeled “old lady.” I feel like my great-grandmother! Nothing I’d ever choose to wear in “real life,” but interesting nonetheless, if only as a centennial time capsule.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    I see a whole day has happened while I’ve been away!
    On to Note-
    I’m impressed with the lavender top. It fades quickly to a rosy blend - there is some fleshy flower coming in as well - sweeter, not indolic. It seems humid for a time but dries and sweetens - very sweet musk and rose and a slightly bitter element underneath that seems to stop the musk from overtaking - dried citrus peel. Rose and musk remaining dominant but it reminds me of modern rose/jasmine where it becomes like a different flower from either one. Don’t know, but not just rose alone - perhaps the muguet that PStoller mentions. Breathing warm air on my skin and inhaling now allows me to glimpse more of the lavender top - fresher.

    The rose blend retreats and the musk clears some when the tonka and vanilla come in. It smells less foggy now but still substantial. Quite a yummy sweet but not necessarily foodie. I’ve been sniffing this pretty close down to my skin trying to figure out the base. I don’t get woods at this point or flowers, but whiffs of the sweet vanilla and tonka mix with some of the lighter elements from the top.

    I have to be in the mood for these types of very vintage perfumes to appreciate them and the dry down is what I wait for. I think the dry down in Totem smells similarly tonka and vanilla rich, and like Note it gets better and better as the minutes pass, becoming a really nice, subtle smellscape. I’m smelling Note again and it is getting delicious, more amber-brown, like a liqueur.

    I think liking tonka and vanilla are prerequisites for this one.
    ĒI want all the perfumesĒ
    Currently wearing: AnaÔs AnaÔs by Cacharel

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I’m impressed with the lavender top. It fades quickly to a rosy blend - there is some fleshy flower coming in as well - sweeter, not indolic. It seems humid for a time but dries and sweetens - very sweet musk and rose and a slightly bitter element underneath that seems to stop the musk from overtaking - dried citrus peel. Rose and musk remaining dominant but it reminds me of modern rose/jasmine where it becomes like a different flower from either one. Don’t know, but not just rose alone - perhaps the muguet that PStoller mentions. Breathing warm air on my skin and inhaling now allows me to glimpse more of the lavender top - fresher.

    The rose blend retreats and the musk clears some when the tonka and vanilla come in. It smells less foggy now but still substantial. Quite a yummy sweet but not necessarily foodie. I’ve been sniffing this pretty close down to my skin trying to figure out the base. I don’t get woods at this point or flowers, but whiffs of the sweet vanilla and tonka mix with some of the lighter elements from the top.

    I have to be in the mood for these types of very vintage perfumes to appreciate them and the dry down is what I wait for. I think the dry down in Totem smells similarly tonka and vanilla rich, and like Note it gets better and better as the minutes pass, becoming a really nice, subtle smellscape. I’m smelling Note again and it is getting delicious, more amber-brown, like a liqueur.

    I think liking tonka and vanilla are prerequisites for this one.
    Funny, I didn't get the lavender until later, or perhaps I simply didn't identify it. After the fog lifts, some lavender lingers, along with the tonka & vanilla. In fact, it reminds me of Caron pour un Homme, albeit accompanied for a while by a touch of the amberish warmth Earlyn mentions. (I'm thinking that's the sandalwood).

    Alas, I don't really like vanilla, at least not so far forward for so long, which is what made the Caron a miss for me. Likewise Dior Homme, which front loaded all the interest and then left me wanting for hours after. I never picked up Note's citrusy middle, though I didn't spend too much of the day with my nose glued to my forearm. I suppose it may have been there in the initial melange.

    I find it interesting to compare to Dior Homme: all that floral activity on the top drying down to a vanilla base. Of course, for Olivier Polge, it was iris and aromachemical razzle-dazzle rather than the Note bouquet: less a fog off the Seine than a dry ice cloud at the start of a rock concert. Still, while the net effect is very different—even the vanillas differ in tone—the structures favor. Polge (and perhaps Slimane) certainly referenced scents like Note to create DH. (ZC called DH, "the Habit Rouge of its generation," which I think is even more precisely on point—and I don't care for Habit Rouge, either.)

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Sample 1 of 26 - Houbigant Note. I'm liking this. It has a vintage feel. This is reportedly from 1918, and it reinforces my experience that fragrances from around the same time smell like each other. This smells like other 1920s era fragrances I've tried from Godet, Guerlain, Coty (Emeraude) and maybe a few others.

    It's a great version of a great style. It has a slight dose of 1920s powder, which I love, and an incensey sandalwood, which smells to me like 1920s era vintage perfumes, and I love it. It pushes the envelope with oily-resin smells in the opening, which makes it fun, and then it softens.

    Jules says it reminds her of her grandma's house - vintage plastics. She's trying to place it more precisely, though, searching her memories.

    This has been a fun one to start the sync. I'm impressed.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I have to be in the mood for these types of very vintage perfumes to appreciate them and the dry down is what I wait for. I think the dry down in Totem smells similarly tonka and vanilla rich, and like Note it gets better and better as the minutes pass, becoming a really nice, subtle smellscape. I’m smelling Note again and it is getting delicious, more amber-brown, like a liqueur.

    I think liking tonka and vanilla are prerequisites for this one.
    I can take a few minutes to decide how well I think one is made - it can be a muddle at the beginning - but I can appreciate and enjoy the early stages of this style of perfume. They can smell like a headshop, but done in such a nice way.

    The amber-brown liqueur note is as you describe.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I find it interesting to compare to Dior Homme: all that floral activity on the top drying down to a vanilla base. Of course, for Olivier Polge, it was iris and aromachemical razzle-dazzle rather than the Note bouquet: less a fog off the Seine than a dry ice cloud at the start of a rock concert. Still, while the net effect is very different—even the vanillas differ in tone—the structures favor. Polge (and perhaps Slimane) certainly referenced scents like Note to create DH.
    I agree about the Dior comparison.

    Dior Homme can be like the dry ice analogy, and that's a nice thing to say about Houbigant Note.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    It dries down warm and musky, with sweetness from tonka or vanilla. The long drydown is my favorite part. I'm reminded of Moment Supreme or Jicky, and I don’t perceive strong floral notes other than rose.
    Thank you for the sample and the whole event! I can imagine tonka bean as one of the ingredients.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Wearing Bal ŗ Versailles. Too soon to write in detail, but it opens with a good balance of powder (similar florals to Note, but not so stuffy) and animalics. I can't perceive the advertised citrus tang, so the top may be diminished on the 60–70-year-old sample. Too bad, as that would take this up a notch. But, let's see where we are in an hour when I should pick up more of the base.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Sample 2 of 26 - Bal a Versailles parfum - This is a great perfume, loaded with civet and/or other goodies that smell animalic. Here's Starblind's review:

    If there were a God, She would smell of vintage Bal a Versailles in pure parfum concentration.
    Bal a Versailles is my idea of a reference, celebratory animalic floral fragrance. When I tried Siberian Musk, I thought it underwhelmed compared to something like this.

    C1F132BC-B7A3-48E9-BB00-BE92375C563D.jpg

    060B308B-0446-4E30-8ACC-6C46B51146E7.jpg

    A men's fragrance that pushes the stinky animalics in this way, but still stays polite, just, is the original Aramis JHL. There's some sweetness from the musk / civet, it seems, in Bal a Versailles and JHL.

    The woods in Bal a Versailles are dark, unforgiving. I like it.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Sample 2 of 26 - Bal a Versailles parfum - This is a great perfume, loaded with civet and/or other goodies that smell animalic.

    Bal a Versailles is my idea of a reference, celebratory animalic floral fragrance. When I tried Siberian Musk, I thought it underwhelmed compared to something like this.

    C1F132BC-B7A3-48E9-BB00-BE92375C563D.jpg

    060B308B-0446-4E30-8ACC-6C46B51146E7.jpg

    A men's fragrance that pushes the stinky animalics in this way, but still stays polite, just, is the original Aramis JHL. There's some sweetness from the musk / civet, it seems, in Bal a Versailles and JHL.

    The woods in Bal a Versailles are dark, unforgiving. I like it.
    That bottle is so pretty.
    Iíve had Bal a Versailles on for about 6 hours now. My first try of this fragrance. I had some expectations and liked it immediately - was impressed, but thought maybe I was just caving in to pre-concieved notions of this being a great fragrance. So I kept smelling trying and trying not to think of any words and just see if I could find something wrong with it but I just couldnít.

    Thought it was going to go up and over with the stank but then there were the delicate flowers, then I thought it was going to be a powder cloud but then there was that interesting herbal tang. Thought the musk was going to head into old lady territory but then in came the dark wood that Bavard notes. Really loved that balancing herb and the beautiful wood.

    I like that it kept changing and not going where I thought it was going to go and how it managed to play some strong notes against one another without being screechy or overwhelming. And nothing got lost in the mix. The tinkling of the floral woody powdery details played out clearly over the sustained animalic chords. I like the musk that is hanging on as it is not too sweet, or sweaty or foggy - more like moist skin and breath.

    Iíll have a second wearing immediately and think of words, and pay close attention to the quality of civet here as a reference.
    This fragrance seems exceptional to me.
    ĒI want all the perfumesĒ
    Currently wearing: AnaÔs AnaÔs by Cacharel

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    The woods in Bal a Versailles are dark, unforgiving. I like it.
    I found the woods showed up much later, bringing the animalics back in tow. Really nice stuff, never out of balance. I would still like to experience the top it’s purported to have, but no matter: it dries down wonderfully. I was sparing with my sample, in case Mrs. S. wanted to give it a go. But, too, it doesn’t take much. I’m glad I didn’t OD.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Oh dear, the thread has commenced and I was caught unawares! Thanks B!

    Iím wearing Note this evening (first impressions = very good). Iím reminded, oddly, of the tonka/hay/tobacco/flowers profile and somewhat raunchy ďhumidityĒ of Habanita. To a smaller extent, Iím getting echoes of the lavender tonka fougere nature of Totem. A blend of the two. Is there tobacco in this, or is it a ghost in the tonka? I like the dry ice analogy earlier; thereís an almost mentholated fresh coolness to it, which is really interesting against the front line accords.

    Extremely exciting to be wearing a perfume that might actually date from the 1910s. A true privilege. Thanks, grayspoole for sharing this one.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Oh dear, the thread has commenced and I was caught unawares! Thanks B!

    Iím wearing Note this evening
    Iím reminded, oddly, of the tonka/hay/tobacco/flowers profile and somewhat raunchy ďhumidityĒ of Habanita. To a smaller extent, Iím getting echoes of the lavender tonka fougere nature of Totem
    These comparisons seem right for me too - the tonka, hay, and Habanita humidity, the lavender/tonka Totem fougere echoes.

    LOTV is listed in Note and sometimes that can be humid like in Coty Muguet des Bois.
    Interesting that the original Habanita would have released not long after Note.
    ĒI want all the perfumesĒ
    Currently wearing: AnaÔs AnaÔs by Cacharel

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Hello all-

    Just time for a quick post, with more later. I’m so glad you all enjoyed testing Note, definitely one of the more interesting, albeit perplexing, bottles in my collection.

    And now for BaV... Watch out, this one sneaks up on you. The more I wear BaV, the more I love it. I wear it to work.

    @Earlyn—wonderful testing notes! BaV is all that and more.

    @Bavard— When I tested Siberian Musk, I immediately thought of BaV too, and I prefer BaV as well. And vintage BaV parfum is plentiful, so I do not have to become an Areej le Doree fanboi to get some.

    @PStoller—I don’t think I’ve ever noticed a citrus top in BaV, although I do see that bergamot and lemon are listed in the published notes here. Lemon?!? really?I’m going to apply the extrait from a few different bottles, including the one that I sampled for you, along with with a spray of the vintage PDT and see if I do.

    Have a great day folks!
    Currently wearing: Alliage by Estťe Lauder

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    This is going swimmingly. Sample 3 of 26 is Lentheric Men’s edc.

    6C074448-65F9-4F34-9C1E-3159A6E92459.jpg

    This is a bottle from Epapsiou. I imagine it was an eBay pickup. He gets so many bottles - sometimes it's enough to have tried something and satisfied his curiosity, so if someone shows an interest in something, he makes a gift of it.

    And now it's part of this event. I saw that Lentheric was on the menu from the initial swap between Grayspoole and Earlyn, so I threw my one and only Lenteric into the mix.

    I find it nice. Not earth shattering - Epapsiou doesn't give those away - but an interesting, soapy-woody men's fragrance.

    The wood cap is great.

    It smells like it could have been a hit in its day. I imagine men wearing it to church in the 1940s.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post

    ..I find it nice. Not earth shattering - Epapsiou doesn't give those away....
    That is not entirely correct, J and IsoE got earth shattering stuff. My parsimony is limited to you Bavard
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    It, like nature, does not give a shit
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  19. #19

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    This is going swimmingly. Sample 3 of 26 is Lentheric Men’s edc.

    an interesting, soapy-woody men's fragrance.

    It smells like it could have been a hit in its day. I imagine men wearing it to church in the 1940s.
    I think this sums up Lentheric in a nutshell. Right off the top, I smelled a very bright, enjoyable citrus that reminded me of a classic Eau de Cologne and lavender type of smell, minus any other flowers. Simple. I'm always game for this style, even it's a very common one. You just can't go wrong. It diverts from the EdC trajectory pretty quickly, becoming, as Bavard says, a soapy-woody men's fragrance. Clean, respectable, the olfactory equivalent of a nicely cut plain suit.

    I'm reminded now of vintage Dunhill for Men, and sniffing them side by side, they do in fact share a lot of personality through their hearts and bases, though the Dunhill is somewhat warmer, and starts out more "severe" with very dry aldehydic floral notes. I can see them being worn in similar situations and attire.

    I had never heard of this one before!

    ~~

    Regarding Bal a Versailles Parfum: Full disclosure, I don't like it, and have accepted it. I used to own a bottle similar to the one pictured. It smells screamingly sweet and harsh to me, and just seems to coat my airways and stick in my throat. I think the issue may be that I can do heavy animalic notes such as musk and civet in other contexts, and I can do bright, indolic, voluptuous flowers and sweeter notes, but scents that stick both of those qualities together with high intensity just rub me wrong. It eventually settles into pleasant powdery-warm-musky territory, but I suffer on the way. Anyway...tried and failed to get along with it, and accept my demerit. I'd be willing to give the EDC a go.
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  20. #20

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Lentheric Menís EDC

    Similar feelings with this as Bavard and LiveJazz, although Iím not familiar with mentioned comparisons.

    The citrus top is so refreshing. This one is very light and it is the sort of thing I would use a generous spray of when I want a pick me up. Subtle, dry woods come in and then Iím getting a clean cotton T-shirt on sweaty guy note that Iíve gotten before with some menís fragrances. It isnít unpleasant, in fact I lean into it and breathe on it and it pulls up something fresh and fizzy like a spritzer with a grapefruit twist, and a whiff of bergamot bitters. Thereís a musk, not heavy or sweet, underneath the heart that I think maybe helps the wood from being too dry and makes me think of skin. The musk become dominant in the dry down.

    I think this would be especially good in warm weather not only as a refresher, but because it seems to need some warmth and a little humidity to present itself. Iíll likely drain my sample when the weather warms up.
    ĒI want all the perfumesĒ
    Currently wearing: AnaÔs AnaÔs by Cacharel

  21. #21

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post

    And now for BaV... Watch out, this one sneaks up on you. The more I wear BaV, the more I love it. I wear it to work.

    @PStolleróI donít think Iíve ever noticed a citrus top in BaV, although I do see that bergamot and lemon are listed in the published notes here. Lemon?!? really?
    Iím going to apply the extrait from a few different bottles, including the one that I sampled for you, along with with a spray of the vintage PDT and see if I do.
    Oh, please apply these all together at the same time. I want to know what happens!
    ĒI want all the perfumesĒ
    Currently wearing: AnaÔs AnaÔs by Cacharel

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Lentheric Men’s EDC

    I think this would be especially good in warm weather not only as a refresher, but because it seems to need some warmth and a little humidity to present itself. I’ll likely drain my sample when the weather warms up.
    That's a positive review! These have been good so far, vintage stuff often can be.

    I'll synchronize in the next round with Kouros Fraicheur.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I think this sums up Lentheric in a nutshell. Right off the top, I smelled a very bright, enjoyable citrus that reminded me of a classic Eau de Cologne and lavender type of smell, minus any other flowers. Simple. I'm always game for this style, even it's a very common one. You just can't go wrong. It diverts from the EdC trajectory pretty quickly, becoming, as Bavard says, a soapy-woody men's fragrance. Clean, respectable, the olfactory equivalent of a nicely cut plain suit.

    I'm reminded now of vintage Dunhill for Men, and sniffing them side by side, they do in fact share a lot of personality through their hearts and bases, though the Dunhill is somewhat warmer, and starts out more "severe" with very dry aldehydic floral notes. I can see them being worn in similar situations and attire.
    I find the Lenthťric much simpler than the vintage Dunhill, more of a classic citrus-forward EdC with a vanillic musk drydown. I can’t imagine anyone being put off by it: as you say, you can’t go wrong. But, for me, it’s too anonymous to go especially right, either—it’s not something I feel compelled to add to my collection.

    That said, it should layer well. When I lamented the missing citrus from the top of Bal ŗ Versailles, it occurred to me that something like this might work in tandem, though I think I’d still prefer something closer to the multifaceted citrus in BaV’s note pyramid.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Sample 4 of 26 is Kouros. Kouros is an oddly popular fragrance, and a rare case where the flankers (Sport and Fraicheur) easily surpass the original. The original combined musk and woods, but instead of going for a traditional soap note, went for the smell of a urinal cake. It was a bold move, and fun to try once, but hard to understand how someone would get into it and make it a regular thing.

    There may be more than one sport flanker in its checkered history, but the main one, Eau de Sport, it might be, is like an attempt to dress it up - move it out of urinal cake territory, but keeping everything else almost the same. That would have been a good choice for the sync, but I don't have any more of it.

    I do have some Kouros Fraicheur that I'm wearing, and it's a nice fragrance. This might be the best YSL fragrance. It has some of the craziness of Kouros, but it's really not that similar. It's more like a mish-mash of a bunch of popular fragrances from the 80s, inclucing Kouros. It's good stuff.

    I would add Kouros Fraicheur to the list of fragrances that overlap with Gengis Khan edt.

    The original Kouros does have a reliable base of woods, but even that is just ok for me. The woods are kept interesting by some of the animalic, I think. It works ok. I can see why people might like the base.

    As mentioned in round 1, Shocking has some overlap with Kouros, as does Boss No. 1, to my nose. I think some of this effect is from urinous-smelling flowers.

  25. #25

    Default Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Kouros is Pierre Bourdon's masterpiece, an animalic incense floral clove honey fougere that somehow, in spite of those notes, manages to smell as "white" as its bottle implies. It is brilliantly lit by a powerful camphoreous soapy layer (some read it as urinal cake) that places the dirty bits in stark relief.

    It's like there's a sharp-edged shadow running through the center of the scent, and depending on the weather, or your frame of mind, it can smell like pure raunch, or freshly scrubbed - which makes little sense given the dominant notes (flowers? honey? clove? incense? These are not typical soapy notes). These notes should smolder with a relaxed glow. Instead, they're bright like a shaft of sunlight hitting a tile floor. I love wearing it right out of a shower.

    I also love the original flankers, which basically smooth and fuzz that stark clean/dirty juxtaposition a bit (in the case of Eau de Sport) and then add pineapple (Fraicheur). The later Cologne Sport keeps the clean aspect entirely intact and removes all raunch, and as a result actually smells the most "aggressive" to me, in an impersonal way, even though its the lightest. Body Kouros is good stuff, but has nothing whatsoever to do with the original.

    Here is my favorite review of Kouros.

    This bottle is from 1993:


    P.S. Bavard, I'm assuming you weren't on the Kouros "need a sample" list intentionally, but if you'd like to smell this vintage and haven't, let me know!
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 6th January 2020 at 06:22 PM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Seyrig by Bruno Fazzolari

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    great post @livejazz

    Kouros is like an idealized male body, to me. That makes it insane that it could still be out there, in current production...it isn't a clean musky male body, but a real one. It is a lovely and wonderful to me.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    P.S. Bavard, I'm assuming you weren't on the Kouros "need a sample" list intentionally, but if you'd like to smell this vintage and haven't, let me know!
    I've had samples, but thank you! Cytherian, who lives near New York City and makes the meetups there, loves Kouros and carries a 50-ml vintage splash bottle around with him, inviting sales associations to take a sniff. It's an interesting twist, the customer selling the sales associate on a perfume. A few have seemed shocked.
    Last edited by Bavard; 6th January 2020 at 06:37 PM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    This feels like a special day. I'm trying Kouros for the first time. I've done some reading about this in the past, and just now that great review LiveJazz put up, but now its time to put my nose to it.

    I'm looking at the vial and the juice is piss colored (as opposed to the green juice in the Polo vial next to it) which seems appropriate from prior descriptions. Sniffing the open vial I clearly get the urinal cake similarity so I'm a little hesitant about applying much. I've used the little wand this time instead of inverting the opening against my skin and drawing little circles like I usually would.

    Pulling a quote from the Katie Puckrick review that LiveJazz shared:
    Kouros fills the air like steam from a gushing hot water tap in a fancy old European hotel bathroom. An unfamiliar bathroom fogged with ghosts of all the other guests whoíve used it before you. And hereís where Kouros really starts to throb -- with vigor and borderline TMI.
    This is so accurate, kind of gross, but true. Following the old bathroom idea I imagine dried up toothpaste embedded in the grout lines along with absorbed body oils (and other) and spilled medicinals.

    I feel like I have been "marked". Do women wear this? It is an intriguing thought for a woman to be covered in the scent of men. I think this might be the point, and Iím conflicted and maybe a little disturbed (depending on how the scent got there). This is one of the most masculine of the masculines I have smelled so far.

    I don't have a problem with the more natural body smells. However, those minty/eucalyptus (ok, urine cake) notes are aggressively opening my airways to assure I get the maximum dosage of those musky urinous notes. Pushy, pushy!

    I was surprised at the strong response I had to this fragrance. It is love/hate - Iím entertained but Iím also kind of ticked off. It seems almost like a parody of crotch scratching masculinity, but on the other hand, in the right circumstance it could be the exact right thing for the wearer and partner.
    ĒI want all the perfumesĒ
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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    This feels like a special day. I'm trying Kouros for the first time. I've done some reading about this in the past, and just now that great review LiveJazz put up, but now its time to put my nose to it.

    I'm looking at the vial and the juice is piss colored (as opposed to the green juice in the Polo vial next to it) which seems appropriate from prior descriptions. Sniffing the open vial I clearly get the urinal cake similarity so I'm a little hesitant about applying much. I've used the little wand this time instead of inverting the opening against my skin and drawing little circles like I usually would.

    Pulling a quote from the Katie Puckrick review that LiveJazz shared:


    This is so accurate, kind of gross, but true. Following the old bathroom idea I imagine dried up toothpaste embedded in the grout lines along with absorbed body oils (and other) and spilled medicinals.

    I feel like I have been "marked". Do women wear this? It is an intriguing thought for a woman to be covered in the scent of men. I think this might be the point, and I’m conflicted and maybe a little disturbed (depending on how the scent got there). This is one of the most masculine of the masculines I have smelled so far.

    I don't have a problem with the more natural body smells. However, those minty/eucalyptus (ok, urine cake) notes are aggressively opening my airways to assure I get the maximum dosage of those musky urinous notes. Pushy, pushy!

    I was surprised at the strong response I had to this fragrance. It is love/hate - I’m entertained but I’m also kind of ticked off. It seems almost like a parody of crotch scratching masculinity, but on the other hand, in the right circumstance it could be the exact right thing for the wearer and partner.
    Fascinating. Thank you.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization II

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    "Kouros fills the air like steam from a gushing hot water tap in a fancy old European hotel bathroom. An unfamiliar bathroom fogged with ghosts of all the other guests whoíve used it before you. And hereís where Kouros really starts to throb -- with vigor and borderline TMI."

    This is so accurate, kind of gross, but true. Following the old bathroom idea I imagine dried up toothpaste embedded in the grout lines along with absorbed body oils (and other) and spilled medicinals.
    I adore that quote - my favorite part of the review!

    This is one of the most masculine of the masculines I have smelled so far.
    I find Polo more masculine, by a long shot. Kouros, to Bavard's point above, actually shared a lot of bones with vintage powdery mossy feminine florals, but somehow those qualities were transposed into masculinity with those bright camphorous nostril-openers (great way of thinking about that element of the scent, BTW).


    I've used the little wand this time instead of inverting the opening against my skin and drawing little circles like I usually would.

    ...

    I don't have a problem with the more natural body smells. However, those minty/eucalyptus (ok, urine cake) notes are aggressively opening my airways to assure I get the maximum dosage of those musky urinous notes. Pushy, pushy!
    I realize I provided it in a dabber vial, and this may sound risky, but if you can, try getting it into a spray vial, or next time try smearing on your core, under clothing where the body heat is.

    My standard application is 1-2 shots to the stomach...it seems to kind of melt in and create an aura. The softer "sweaty but clean body" notes come out more, and it becomes a surprisingly easy and balanced wear.

    The sharp edged parts are more evident sniffing up close, off the wrist.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Seyrig by Bruno Fazzolari




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