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  1. #61

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    4711
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne type
    Rating: 4/5
    Longevity: 1/5

    This test is courtesy of my 12-year-old’s dabber bottle. Both of my kiddos love it. They love lemony stuff (Lemony Snicket included). This fragrance starts with a bright lemon blast which fades almost instantly to a soft neroli/herb base. Not much going on. It’s simple, refreshing, and classic. I wish the citrus lasted longer than 20 minutes! Undetectable within an hour.
    Last edited by Kotori; 10th January 2020 at 09:09 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  2. #62

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Yeah, those little bottles are cheaper than many pay samples, and last a while, too. Perfect way to see if it's the thing for you. And if it is, wait until you see the prices on the "economy-sized" bottles!
    Sage advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by Deuce2 View Post
    Alvarez Gomez is quite nice, even their shave soap is first class
    Good to know- just checked them out!


    By the way everyone, my first sample package came!
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
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  3. #63

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone
    Category: Hybrid of Category 2 and 3 (EDC/Bright Citrus)
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 2/5

    When I think of this house, I think of this fragrance, even though we own two Jo Malones at the Kotori household and neither are this. It’s been copied ad nauseum and turned into copycat candles and probably even something at Bath and Body Works. I’m very familiar; it’s ubiquitous. I used to adore it back when I could have never justified its cost. Now I’m exploring it for real, since I always pass it by when I’m at a counter, looking for what’s new. I love the basil! I grow basil every summer and I put it in everything we eat during the hottest months. It’s cooling and fragrant, and the note here is obvious now that I’m looking for it. I used to think the basil made it masculine, but I am not getting that at all today. Unisex. It even sours the citrus notes enough to make them interesting. A fruity citrus with a basil underpinning that recalls the rosemary/cypress/geranium/etc. in an EDC, but is tongue in cheek about it. Unfortunately, it’s quite fleeting, with the interesting bits being gone at around an hour. Note: may cause headache.
    Last edited by Kotori; 10th January 2020 at 09:15 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  4. #64

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Basil & Neroli by Jo Malone
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne type
    Rating: 5/5
    Longevity: 3/5

    A green floral masquerading as an EDC. Love the snapped stems of the basil note. This Basil note is more assertive than the one in Lime, Basil & Mandarin. I really like the basil with the neroli; they’re a great team! Neroli can get sickly sweet, but the basil keeps it in check. Despite it being technically a green floral, this has a lot of resemblance to 4711 and the like, minus the lemon introduction. This has possibilities.
    Last edited by Kotori; 10th January 2020 at 09:16 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  5. #65

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Can someone recommend something close to crabbtree and Evelyn west Indian lime cologne?

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  6. #66

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Tonight I’m testing Atelier’s Grand Neroli.

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    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
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  7. #67

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Mon Numero 9 by L’Artisan Parfumeur
    Category : 2 Eau de Cologne type (variant)
    Rating: 4/5 (base somewhat unpleasant)
    Longevity:2/5 (citrus gone quickly)

    It’s a rare thing that after so many years of loving fragrances and exploring them, a fragrance would still have the capacity to surprise me, but Mon Numero 9 has done just that. I dabbed a bit on from my dabber sample, and immediately a snapped stems greenness rose up, mixing with lime. I broke into a smile. There are a lot of listed notes, but the only ones I smell are cyclamen, lime, and shiso. The lime is not dominant for long, and I’ll see how long it actually lasts. But it’s gorgeous either way. A stemmy green citrus with an eau de cologne style and weight, it lasts well because of its green base. I wore Eau de Shiso by Roger and Gallet through two bottles, and this one is much more sophisticated. It seems to have a nice sillage, as well. Worth considering!

    EDIT: Possible headache induced in base notes
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  8. #68

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Mon Numero 9 by L’Artisan Parfumeur
    Category : 2 Eau de Cologne type (variant)
    Rating: 5/5
    Longevity:?

    It’s a rare thing that after so many years of loving fragrances and exploring them, a fragrance would still have the capacity to surprise me, but Mon Numero 9 has done just that. I dabbed a bit on from my dabber sample, and immediately a snapped stems greenness rose up, mixing with lime. I broke into a smile. There are a lot of listed notes, but the only ones I smell are cyclamen, lime, and shiso. The lime is not dominant for long, and I’ll see how long it actually lasts. But it’s gorgeous either way. A stemmy green citrus with an eau de cologne style and weight, it lasts well because of its green base. I wore Eau de Shiso by Roger and Gallet through two bottles, and this one is much more sophisticated. It seems to have a nice sillage, as well. Worth considering!

    EDIT: Possible headache induced in base notes
    Agree that it is very strange and (to me) not pleasant in the base.
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  9. #69

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus
    Rating: 4/5
    Longevity:3/5

    If Mediterraneo by Carthusia is lemon tea, then Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria is lemonade. Lemonade made fresh with too much sugar, the way my son likes to make it. In this way it reminds me of Eau de Guerlain with its warm sweet base supporting the citrus. There is a scene In the book I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings where young Maya/Marguerite is invited to the home of the classiest lady in town, Sister Flowers, where she is offered fresh lemonade and tea cookies.

    They were flat round wafers, slightly browned on the edges and butter-yellow in the center. With the cold lemonade they were sufficient for childhood’s lifelong diet. Remembering my manners, I took nice little ladylike bites off the edges. She said she had made them expressly for me and that she had a few in the kitchen that I could take home to my brother. So I jammed one whole cake in my mouth and the rough crumbs scratched the insides of my jaws, and if I hadn’t had to swallow, it would have been a dream come true.

    It’s a marvelous scene, and I now imagine it might smell like this.
    Last edited by Kotori; 12th January 2020 at 06:41 PM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  10. #70

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by AntonPan View Post
    Agree that it is very strange and (to me) not pleasant in the base.
    I think it’s patchouli— a grassy patchouli. And something else I can’t quite identify, though I’ve smelled it before.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  11. #71

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Cologne Sologne
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne type
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 1/5

    I’ve had this sample long enough that I’ve used up most of its 5 ml; long enough that it’s become as much a reference eau de cologne for me as 4711. I’m going to ignore listed notes and describe what I smell. The opening is lemon blossom, neroli, soft unidentifiable herbs, and French triple-milled soap. Later there is Neroli-scented triple-milled soap, and the lemon blossom fades, along with the herbs. That soapy bit continues in little wafts here or there for a few hours, but the citrusy bits are ephemeral. It’s a good value, but not quite as citrusy as I would like.
    Last edited by Kotori; 12th January 2020 at 06:41 PM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  12. #72

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Grand Neroli by Atelier Colognes
    Category: 2/3 hybrid
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 2/5

    The opening is promising: a tart bergamot paired with a spicy neroli. In these moments, it strikes me as a most sophisticated and hopefully long-lasting 4711. Soon a laundry musk saunters in, and the entire compositions sweetens and softens, as if melting. In later moments, it recalls a fruity air freshener from my childhood; one I despise. Finally, within the hour, it’s a barely noticeable fruity air freshener.
    Last edited by Kotori; 12th January 2020 at 06:43 PM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  13. #73

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Mandarino di Amalfi by Tom Ford
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus type
    Rating: 4/5
    Longevity: EDIT: Forever, apparently? 5/5

    A sour mandarin that is overripe and verging on rotten, but never ventures into the Bigarade territory. It is bright and refreshing with an unexpected tartness. The strength is in the musky base, and this one is not a dryer sheet musk, but an animalic one with a hint of cumin. After a few minutes, the combo has a tendency to go funky/skunky, and if you’re wearing this on a hot day, you may not wish to over-apply if you’ll be in the vicinity of others during this stage. The skunky part resolves within a few minutes and you have a rounder musky mandarin with decent lasting power.
    Last edited by Kotori; 1st February 2020 at 05:13 PM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  14. #74

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Mandarino di Amalfi by Tom Ford
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus type
    Rating: 4/5
    Longevity: 3/5

    A sour mandarin that is overripe and verging on rotten, but never ventures into the Bigarade territory. It is bright and refreshing with an unexpected tartness. The strength is in the musky base, and this one is not a dryer sheet musk, but an animalic one with a hint of cumin. After a few minutes, the combo has a tendency to go funky/skunky, and if you’re wearing this on a hot day, you may not wish to over-apply if you’ll be in the vicinity of others during this stage. The skunky part resolves within a few minutes and you have a rounder musky mandarin with decent lasting power.
    I had a very similar experience with this one and was surprised to find it had much more a funky animalic finish underneath it than I had expected. It kind of works with the herbs and spices that accompany the citrus, but it was a surprise, and I was expecting something less sweaty-musky. I’m not sure how I feel about it either. It’s different, but I don’t love that kind of thing always and like my fresh scents fresh. But it’s put together well, and the notes are all vibrant and crisp. I didn’t find this muskiness in the Acqua version.
    *My current wardrobe is up to date as of: 12/26/19*

  15. #75

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermes
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne type
    Rating: 4/5
    Longevity: 2/5

    These early eaux from Hermes are all pretty admirable, with realistic citrus tops and a soft, mossy base. This one opens with a tart grapefruit, supported by a barely detectable rose, providing mostly structural support. After 10-20 minutes, the grapefruit is just a flavoring added to the blend. Finally a mossy/woody bade peeks out, and this is where it all lands. Its ultimate drydown strongly recalls 2015 Eau Sauvage.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  16. #76

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Buysblind View Post
    I had a very similar experience with this one and was surprised to find it had much more a funky animalic finish underneath it than I had expected. It kind of works with the herbs and spices that accompany the citrus, but it was a surprise, and I was expecting something less sweaty-musky. I’m not sure how I feel about it either. It’s different, but I don’t love that kind of thing always and like my fresh scents fresh. But it’s put together well, and the notes are all vibrant and crisp. I didn’t find this muskiness in the Acqua version.
    Sounds like we have a similar experience with it. It’s really well done and I like it, but I just don’t find myself warming up to its more animalic side. I have a sample of the Acqua version and I’ll be giving that another try.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  17. #77

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Jo Malone Orange Bitters
    Category: 1 Bigarade type
    Rating: 2/5
    Longevity: 5/5

    Definitely a winter citrus, it opens with delicious sugared orange peels, but then the base structure of Bath & Body Works Twilight Woods emerges. It dries down to an ambery Bath & Body Works lotion type of base, and despite it smelling nice, I smell a lot like any middle aged white lady after applying Christmas gift lotion from my desk drawer.
    Last edited by Kotori; 19th January 2020 at 06:06 PM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  18. #78
    Basenotes Institution Darjeeling's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Grand Neroli by Atelier Colognes
    Category: 2/3 hybrid
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 2/5

    The opening is promising: a tart bergamot paired with a spicy neroli. In these moments, it strikes me as a most sophisticated and hopefully long-lasting 4711. Soon a laundry musk saunters in, and the entire compositions sweetens and softens, as if melting. In later moments, it recalls a fruity air freshener from my childhood; one I despise. Finally, within the hour, it’s a barely noticeable fruity air freshener.
    This has one of my favorite openings of any fragrance, but that musk and vanilla base is such a letdown after the top notes. The top notes are my ideal EdC. I went through a few months where I was obsessed by this fragrance. If only the base avoided vanilla and sweetness. Plain musk, Wood, herbs, even no real base would have been more satisfying. And yet, I own an bottle and still wear it from time to time, often reapplying for the hit of the top notes and to postpone the drydown.
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  19. #79

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Darjeeling View Post
    The top notes are my ideal EdC...I went through a few months where I was obsessed by this fragrance... I own an bottle and still wear it from time to time, often reapplying for the hit of the top notes and to postpone the drydown.
    Me, too! I got so excited when I put it on, like “This is IT!” And then, alas... I can completely see continually topping up for top notes. The trouble is, those musky bases build up!
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
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  20. #80
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermes
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne type
    Rating: 4/5
    Longevity: 2/5

    These early eaux from Hermes are all pretty admirable, with realistic citrus tops and a soft, mossy base. This one opens with a tart grapefruit, supported by a barely detectable rose, providing mostly structural support. After 10-20 minutes, the grapefruit is just a flavoring added to the blend. Finally a mossy/woody bade peeks out, and this is where it all lands. Its ultimate drydown strongly recalls 2015 Eau Sauvage.
    One of my faves - we have the big bottle as shared cologne. The liquid hand soap is also magnificent, and decently priced. Several B&BW/Bigelow fragrances had awesome reminiscences if this one. Speaking of which....

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Jo Malone Orange Bitters
    Category: 1 Bigarade type
    Rating: 2/5
    Longevity: ?

    Definitely a winter citrus, it opens with delicious sugared orange peels, but then the base structure of Bath & Body Works Twilight Woods emerges. It dries down to an ambery Bath & Body Works lotion type of base, and despite it smelling nice, I smell a lot like any middle aged white lady after applying Christmas gift lotion from my desk drawer.
    Yes, even Twilight Woods itself has an awesome opening, somewhat present in the men's version, but both fade to a bland base which I didn't care for, not even one of their better ambery bases!
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  21. #81

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    One of my faves - we have the big bottle as shared cologne. The liquid hand soap is also magnificent, and decently priced.
    Good call on the 200 ml— those are a great value. Those three— Pamplemousse Rose, Orange Vert, and Neroli Dore—are high up in my rankings right now. I need to re-test them all at the same time. But Mandarine Ambree is too sweet, and the others aren’t citrus.

    I wonder if anyone has any opinions on Eau d’Orange Vert v. The Concentre? I can’t seem to figure out which one my sample is.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Yes, even Twilight Woods itself has an awesome opening, somewhat present in the men's version, but both fade to a bland base which I didn't care for, not even one of their better ambery bases!
    You’re right— great opening, bland base. It’s a common theme for me lately. You can really tell they make most of their sales in the first few minutes!
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
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  22. #82

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Finally, a thread on citrus fragrance exploration! Wow, Kotori I am taking down notes.
    Welcome, Diamondfame! Your excitement is contagious!

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    I LOVE basil as a citrus partnering note btw.
    It really knocks it out of the park, doesn’t it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    The base is always a problem for citrus fragrances isn’t it? Oakmoss /mossy woods base would have been my preferred but that’s no longer in vogue apparently. Must be tricky to pair the vibrant yet fleeting top notes with a more substantial base without overwhelming them mid-phase. Personally I’m looking for citrus with frankincense and myrrh or ambergris in the base. La Via del Profumo A Mon Seul Desir came closest but it’s not in production. In the meantime I’m following this thread with great interest.
    Yeah the bases conundrum is interesting. It seems like most bases consist of mosses, woody aromachemicals, sandalwood/cedarwood, amber, or funk. My preferences would be for mosses or other green notes, sandalwood, or funk, I think. I’ll look up A Mon Seul Desir. It sounds good!
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  23. #83
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    I wonder if anyone has any opinions on Eau d’Orange Vert v. The Concentre? I can’t seem to figure out which one my sample is.
    The one that seems so powdery, cool and fresh, as it goes into the heart, that it's almost completely cold, as if the primary component is spearmint or menthol, is the Concentrť. That's how I tell them apart. The Eau actually seems like an eau. The Concentrť seems like a cool powdery perfume to me.
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  24. #84

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    My Parfum díEmpire Iskander arrived today. Cookbot didnít steer me wrong, itís delightful.

    Bright citrus, lemony opening. Tart grapefruit. Soft orange blossom with a hint of tarragon. As it dries down it becomes slightly sweeter and cozier. Iím starting to get notes of the oakmoss and a sweet musk with the barest of cedar dancing in the background. As it dries down further, the mandarin actually comes forward as the lemon and grapefruit fade. I get mandarin and a modestly vanillan amber. Almost but not quite creamy cedar in the drydown, the amber and mandarin. Silage was modest, longevity at least four hours. Not the strongest citrus Iíve tried but respectable.


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  25. #85
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    My Parfum díEmpire Iskander arrived today. Cookbot didnít steer me wrong, itís delightful.
    Bright citrus, lemony opening. Tart grapefruit. Soft orange blossom with a hint of tarragon. As it dries down it becomes slightly sweeter and cozier. Iím starting to get notes of the oakmoss and a sweet musk with the barest of cedar dancing in the background. As it dries down further, the mandarin actually comes forward as the lemon and grapefruit fade. I get mandarin and a modestly vanillan amber. Almost but not quite creamy cedar in the drydown, the amber and mandarin. Silage was modest, longevity at least four hours. Not the strongest citrus Iíve tried but respectable.
    So glad you like it -- though I didn't doubt that you would.

    Your description is spot on, though the cedar's more pronounced on me, and I get a greater lifespan than that from it. Always 6 hours minimum, 8 if I'm sedentary, and I usually spray on clothes to get 10.

  26. #86
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Wow, Kotori, this thread...

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  27. #87

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    So glad you like it -- though I didn't doubt that you would.

    Your description is spot on, though the cedar's more pronounced on me, and I get a greater lifespan than that from it. Always 6 hours minimum, 8 if I'm sedentary, and I usually spray on clothes to get 10.
    Could be my nose is a little dulled taking care of my daughter with a flu. I'll probably give it another go tomorrow just for shits and giggles.


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  28. #88

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Cologne Sologne by Nicolai is very inexpensive and a good eau de cologne with a citrus and neroli lean...fresh and good in heat.

    Blood Oranges by Shay & Blue is wonderful...I see it on your sample list. I've heard some don't like it, but I sure do.

    Orange Spice by Creed is definitely a winter citrus and has an animalic edge...but I sure do love it!

    Five by Bruno Fazzolari is an amazing citrus with a metallic edge. It also may lean masculine, but you might want to try a sample...I think it's superb!

    Verviene by L'Occitane is a beautiful lemony burst of lemon grass...that is gone in minutes sadly, but if you have a L'Occitane store near you, I'd try it...it's so refreshing!

    Agree on Castile by Penhaligons...very nice citrus and neroli...

    Acqua Viva by Profumum...one of the best lemon notes in the opening you'll find.

    Musk Cologne by Bortnikoff. This one is so clean and beautiful! Mandarine, orange, lemon and bergamot with a touch of authentic deer musk...just enough to give it some depth. An amazing fragrance in my opinion and one worth checking out.

    Good luck in your searches!

  29. #89

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Jo Malone Orange Bitters
    Category: 1 Bigarade type
    Rating: 2/5
    Longevity: ?

    Definitely a winter citrus, it opens with delicious sugared orange peels, but then the base structure of Bath & Body Works Twilight Woods emerges. It dries down to an ambery Bath & Body Works lotion type of base, and despite it smelling nice, I smell a lot like any middle aged white lady after applying Christmas gift lotion from my desk drawer.
    I agree with you here; good opening, meh base, but I experience this weird thing where the next day, remnants of this on my clothes have this wonderful sandalwood scent. It's not something I notice the day I apply it, only the next day.

  30. #90

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Clementine California by Atelier Colognes
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus / White Floral
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 2/5

    There’s a bright, sugared tangerine opening that’s very promising, which is supported by white florals and woods. The white floral medley is comprised mostly of a waxy, lactonic orange blossom that is as fatty as whole milk. There’s a bit of green fig in the heart, along with honeysuckle and gardenia. The woods are woody aromachemicals that I can’t directly inhale without a sharp pain between the eyes. What lasts is the white floral/cedar, not the citrus. This is one I’m glad I had a sample of, or I may have bought it based on the in-store experience.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
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