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  1. #91

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Clementine California by Atelier Colognes
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus / White Floral
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 2/5

    There’s a bright, sugared tangerine opening that’s very promising, which is supported by white florals and woods. The white floral medley is comprised mostly of a waxy, lactonic orange blossom that is as fatty as whole milk. There’s a bit of green fig in the heart, along with honeysuckle and gardenia. The woods are woody aromachemicals that I can’t directly inhale without a sharp pain between the eyes. What lasts is the white floral/cedar, not the citrus. This is one I’m glad I had a sample of, or I may have bought it based on the in-store experience.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  2. #92

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Bergamot Soleil by Atelier Colognes
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus
    Rating: 4/5
    Longevity: 4/5

    A sharp bergamot-lime opening is supported with a faint whiff of fresh mint leaves. It warms into an overripe lemon with a bit of refrigerator-coldness-smell. Refreshing and uplifting, it seems to fizz. This effect is probably ISO E Super or some such aromachemicals, but the charm is hard to ignore. Have you ever tasted Fanta Limon from Espana? This is a bit like that. My only complaint is the disproportionate static of woody aromachemicals in the base. On a bad day, they instigate headaches. But on a good day, this is a walk down a hot street with a fizzy lemon drink. One of this line’s best.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  3. #93

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Cedrat Enivrant by Atelier Colognes
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 3/5

    The Cedrat is sour and bitter (which I love), and it’s supported by a heart of melon and vetiver, plus a dash of mint and a base of woody aromachemicals. It was originally one of my favorites from this line and I used up most of a 4 ml spray. But once you smell that melon note, you can’t not. It lasts well, on a base of sour melon-vetiver-woods.
    Last edited by Kotori; 16th January 2020 at 04:40 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  4. #94

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Mandarine Glaciale by Atelier Colognes
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus / White Floral
    Rating: 2/5
    Longevity: 4/5

    Eating 3-day-old tangerines in a kitchen where someone has left the freezer open and someone else is heating up some curry in the microwave. Strange.
    Last edited by Kotori; 16th January 2020 at 04:41 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  5. #95

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    The one that seems so powdery, cool and fresh, as it goes into the heart, that it's almost completely cold, as if the primary component is spearmint or menthol, is the Concentré. That's how I tell them apart. The Eau actually seems like an eau. The Concentré seems like a cool powdery perfume to me.
    Ok now I have to test that Hermès sample again. I don’t want to post a review until I figure out which one I have. I also wanted to pair my review with Eau de Neroli Dore, but I seem to have emptied another sample of that. Off to Sephora this week...
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  6. #96

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    My Parfum d’Empire Iskander arrived today. Cookbot didn’t steer me wrong, it’s delightful.

    Bright citrus, lemony opening. Tart grapefruit. Soft orange blossom with a hint of tarragon. As it dries down it becomes slightly sweeter and cozier. I’m starting to get notes of the oakmoss and a sweet musk with the barest of cedar dancing in the background. As it dries down further, the mandarin actually comes forward as the lemon and grapefruit fade. I get mandarin and a modestly vanillan amber. Almost but not quite creamy cedar in the drydown, the amber and mandarin. Silage was modest, longevity at least four hours. Not the strongest citrus I’ve tried but respectable.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    So glad you like it -- though I didn't doubt that you would.

    Your description is spot on, though the cedar's more pronounced on me, and I get a greater lifespan than that from it. Always 6 hours minimum, 8 if I'm sedentary, and I usually spray on clothes to get 10.
    Definitely ordering a sample; Iskander sounds fantastic.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  7. #97

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Beck View Post
    Wow, Kotori, this thread...

    Thanks! Glad you’re here, Beck!

    Quote Originally Posted by Scent Detective View Post

    Musk Cologne by Bortnikoff. This one is so clean and beautiful! Mandarine, orange, lemon and bergamot with a touch of authentic deer musk...just enough to give it some depth. An amazing fragrance in my opinion and one worth checking out.

    Good luck in your searches!
    Thanks! That Bortnikoff looks intriguing...
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  8. #98
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Ok now I have to test that Hermès sample again. I don’t want to post a review until I figure out which one I have. I also wanted to pair my review with Eau de Neroli Dore, but I seem to have emptied another sample of that. Off to Sephora this week...
    That is the safe option! My bottle of Concentré is very old, and likely way outside of IFRA on multiple components. The last time I sniffed it in stores was maybe 5 years ago, and it was still "chilly", but a bit less so. YMMV - best to do a fresh test.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines

  9. #99
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Great thread! Have you had a chance to try Nice Bergamote yet? I would love to hear your thoughts on it. I am really fond of it myself, and feel like it doesn’t get the shine it deserves.

  10. #100

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Hey Kotori--I just remembered a good one you might want to try:

    Bruno Fazzolari Five

    Anyway, if you have the time or budget to slip it in there somewhere, check it out!
    *My current wardrobe is up to date as of: 12/26/19*

  11. #101

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Schmo View Post
    Great thread! Have you had a chance to try Nice Bergamote yet? I would love to hear your thoughts on it. I am really fond of it myself, and feel like it doesn’t get the shine it deserves.
    I should have a sample of that coming soon!

    Quote Originally Posted by Buysblind View Post
    Hey Kotori--I just remembered a good one you might want to try:

    Bruno Fazzolari Five

    Anyway, if you have the time or budget to slip it in there somewhere, check it out!
    Oh no! I didn’t have that one in my cart when I purchased! There are others I want to try of his, too, like Lampblack and Au Dela Narcisse. Perhaps a sampler.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  12. #102

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Blu Mediterraneo Arancia di Capri by Acqua di Parma
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne variant
    Rating: 4/5
    Longevity: 3/5 (extremely low sillage)

    This one and I go back about 12 or 13 years. I was choosing something for summer of maybe 2007 or 2008 and it came down to Arancia di Capri or Mandarine Tout Simplement by L’Artisan Parfumeur. I chose the L’Artisan, which came in a gorgeous 8 oz bottle with a hand atomizer. Both were fleeting, but Mandarine Tout Simplement was a tad more realistic.

    It’s been a long time since I’ve put it on and this manufacturer’s sample is mostly evaporated. But it’s a rindy sweet orange with a subtle spicy vetiver base. The sillage is so, so low. This is definitely a skin scent. That vetiver/moss/spices base lasts a respectable amount of time, but the orange is gone within about 30 minutes. It’s so very soft and subtle, but I wonder what some overspraying might do for it? Tempting...
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  13. #103
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Mandarine Glaciale by Atelier Colognes
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus / White Floral
    Rating: 2/5
    Longevity: 4/5

    Eating 3-day-old tangerines in a kitchen where someone has left the freezer open and someone else is heating up some curry in the microwave. Strange.
    Haha. Yes. This is indeed an oddball - one I find quite intriguing.
    “...too many among us die at thirty and are buried at eighty.” - Robin Sharma
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  14. #104
    Yes!
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    ... and I would like to add some scents in a visualized form:

    Try the following:



    and



    and

    Castle Forbes "1445"



    and



    and




    and finally...


  15. #105

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Original post has been updated to reflect the actual Lucky Scent samples I purchased, set to arrive 1/21.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  16. #106

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Paradeiserl View Post
    ... and I would like to add some scents in a visualized form:

    Try the following:



    and



    and

    Castle Forbes "1445"



    and



    and




    and finally...


    Impressive! I’ll see what I can find!
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  17. #107

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    I’m testing Givenchy Gentleman Cologne on my hand from a quick stop in at Sephora. I love the opening! Bright and lemony and with a soft floral element... is it violet I smell in there? Nope; iris. Then there’s a nice citrus element that continues into the base. The base is woody— mostly a cedar note, I think. There’s some soft herbaceousness along with the wood. I don’t usually expect this kind of quality from newer releases. For you synaesthetes out there, it smells silvery.

    I also have Allure Homme Sport Cologne on a test strip. There’s a beautiful, sharp bergamot top with that Allure ambery base. Not what I’m looking for exactly— too much amber— but a nice entry in the Chanel Allure lineup. I think my favorite of these is Edition Blanche with its lemon meringue top, available for me to wear anytime since it’s in Mr. Kotori’s wardrobe.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  18. #108

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    I’m testing Givenchy Gentleman Cologne on my hand from a quick stop in at Sephora. I love the opening! Bright and lemony and with a soft floral element... is it violet I smell in there? Nope; iris. Then there’s a nice citrus element that continues into the base. The base is woody— mostly a cedar note, I think. There’s some soft herbaceousness along with the wood. I don’t usually expect this kind of quality from newer releases. For you synaesthetes out there, it smells silvery.

    I also have Allure Homme Sport Cologne on a test strip. There’s a beautiful, sharp bergamot top with that Allure ambery base. Not what I’m looking for exactly— too much amber— but a nice entry in the Chanel Allure lineup. I think my favorite of these is Edition Blanche with its lemon meringue top, available for me to wear anytime since it’s in Mr. Kotori’s wardrobe.
    I do enjoy the new Givenchy Gentleman quite a bit but not really for winter. Very nice summer scent. I used to own Allure Homme Sport but used it up. Found it a very easy to wear work scent. Musk is the lead accord for me, a mild musk balanced by the fruit.


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  19. #109

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    I do enjoy the new Givenchy Gentleman quite a bit but not really for winter. Very nice summer scent. I used to own Allure Homme Sport but used it up. Found it a very easy to wear work scent. Musk is the lead accord for me, a mild musk balanced by the fruit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Yeah I had to choose the coldest day of the year to try on a cologne! But summers come fast here in Memphis and stay long.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  20. #110

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    I’m testing Givenchy Gentleman Cologne on my hand from a quick stop in at Sephora. I love the opening! Bright and lemony and with a soft floral element... is it violet I smell in there? Nope; iris. Then there’s a nice citrus element that continues into the base. The base is woody— mostly a cedar note, I think. There’s some soft herbaceousness along with the wood. I don’t usually expect this kind of quality from newer releases. For you synaesthetes out there, it smells silvery.

    I also have Allure Homme Sport Cologne on a test strip. There’s a beautiful, sharp bergamot top with that Allure ambery base. Not what I’m looking for exactly— too much amber— but a nice entry in the Chanel Allure lineup. I think my favorite of these is Edition Blanche with its lemon meringue top, available for me to wear anytime since it’s in Mr. Kotori’s wardrobe.

    I appreciate your take on Givenchy Gentleman Cologne. This is one I've wanted to try for a while (along with its corresponding pillar EDT). And thanks for the "silvery" description, it helps put it in perspective.
    *My current wardrobe is up to date as of: 12/26/19*

  21. #111

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Blu Mediterraneo Cedro di Taormina by Acqua di Parma
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne variant
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 3/5

    Bright bergamot with a lavender basil heart that comes across as minty and bracing. The bergamot is fleeting. I like it, but for this style I prefer Eau de Cologne Imperiale by Guerlain, even though it doesn’t last.
    Last edited by Kotori; 22nd January 2020 at 03:08 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  22. #112

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Note on the Allure Homme Sport Cologne (clear bottle):

    I sprayed it on a test strip at Sephora from the clear bottle, but I do think the bottle I sprayed from is turning, because the topnotes weren’t very bright and it smelled over-concentrated or evaporated. Also, my thoughts about the ambery base may be a bit of a hyperosmia to things like ambroxan. Others may perceive that note as a slightly sweet musk, whereas for me, it is overwhelming the composition. I notice similar things happening when I smell Sauvage, Un Jardin Sur Le Lagune, and Eau de Citron Noir.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  23. #113

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Blu Mediterraneo Mirto de Panarea by Acqua di Parma
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne variant
    Rating: 5/5
    Longevity: 5/5

    A shimmery bergamot quickly gives way to a fresh ocean breeze, minus the fish and sand. It’s an unusual aquatic, with a weak kinship to Un Jardin Sur Le Nil in its vegetal aquatic heart with a musky base. The myrtle is refreshing and herbaceous without weighing down the composition. It really does evoke an ocean locale in Europe, and the citrus blend reminds me of Italy. It’s a bright idea that’s well-executed.
    Last edited by Kotori; 22nd January 2020 at 03:54 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  24. #114

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Cap Neroli by Parfums di Nicolai
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne variant
    Rating: 2/5
    Longevity: 4/5

    An extremely sharp bergamot or Cedrat note tingles the nose so much it burns a bit. A few moments later, it mellows to a lemony cereal smell. It reminds me of Trix. Eventually the citrus fades to a fermented background flavor, as a spicy white floral rises, and the texture of it is like the stamen anthers of a lily that was picked a day or two ago. It’s mostly a neroli, but it’s waxy and throat-scratchy and deep like a lily with the stamen intact. It’s a very, very floral interpretation, and I’m not sure I’d recognize it as neroli if I hadn’t known. The heart is neroli painted in a new medium. The drydown reveals a throaty orange blossom blended with a sweet, natural jasmine. It’s a pretty floral, but it isn’t really neroli, and it does not scratch my citrus itch.
    Last edited by Kotori; 22nd January 2020 at 11:42 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  25. #115

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Haha. Yes. This is indeed an oddball - one I find quite intriguing.
    Yeah, I didn’t really know what to make of it. Not unpleasant, but also not beautiful or expected.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  26. #116

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Blu Mediterraneo Chinotto di Liguria by Acqua di Parma
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne
    Rating: 5/5
    Longevity: 4/5 (moss lasts well, not citrus)

    In the opening there’s a bright fruit I don’t recognize alongside a strong but fleeting cardamom note. After a few minutes, the rosemary takes over and becomes much more herbaceous.The base reminds me quite a bit of Eau de Sud, but lighter. Not as unique as the top notes promise, but the mossy base wins me over. An overall gorgeous composition.
    Last edited by Kotori; 22nd January 2020 at 03:50 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  27. #117

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    L’Eau Mixte by Parfums di Nicolai
    Category: 3 Bright Citrus
    Rating: 5/5
    Longevity: 4/5 (black currant stays, but citrus is quite fleeting)

    The prelude is a bright citrus bouquet, at times leaning toward grapefruit, at times toward lemon, and all with the brightness of orange. The black currant in the heart prolongs the fruity beginning, tying it to a cheerful rose. I’m reminded on the one hand of Juliette Has a Gun’s fruity rose, Miss Charming, but if the fruit were dominant rather than the rose, and leaving out the godawful woody aromachemicals that form the base of all of their blends. A bit later the grapefruit is the last citrus standing, and I get a sense of what Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune would be like without it’s polarizing patchouli. I’m afraid this citrus won’t last, as we’ve only had 25 minutes of it, and already it’s melody seems to be fading away into a base of black currant leaves. Not at all what I had expected from its name, though it makes perfect sense really: L’Eau Mixte. Mixed fruits. A delightful little mix that’s too gold to stay.
    Last edited by Kotori; 22nd January 2020 at 11:42 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  28. #118
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Blu Mediterraneo Chinotto di Liguria by Acqua di Parma
    Category: 2 Eau de Cologne
    Rating: 5/5
    Longevity: 4/5 (moss lasts well, not citrus)

    In the opening there’s a bright fruit I don’t recognize alongside a strong but fleeting cardamom note. After a few minutes, the rosemary takes over and becomes much more herbaceous.The base reminds me quite a bit of Eau de Sud, but lighter. Not as unique as the top notes promise, but the mossy base wins me over. An overall gorgeous composition.
    OMG - I'm gonna love this one!

    This is chinotto - a very dark citrus. Almost like a cola.

    I found a chinotto fragrance years ago, and loved it. I also bought some San Pellegrino Chinotto drink - awesome stuff!

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/274...se-Abaton-Bros

    https://cologniac.wordpress.com/2011...otto-in-fiore/

    Just noticed the pictures are messed up on that old blog post . Ugh. Later!
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    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines

  29. #119
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Note on the Allure Homme Sport Cologne (clear bottle):

    I sprayed it on a test strip at Sephora from the clear bottle, but I do think the bottle I sprayed from is turning, because the topnotes weren’t very bright and it smelled over-concentrated or evaporated. Also, my thoughts about the ambery base may be a bit of a hyperosmia to things like ambroxan. Others may perceive that note as a slightly sweet musk, whereas for me, it is overwhelming the composition. I notice similar things happening when I smell Sauvage, Un Jardin Sur Le Lagune, and Eau de Citron Noir.
    Yup, that sounds like a perfect description of an aged bottle like mine! They just go flat. Normally the opening is electrifying, IMO. Worth taking repeated store sniffs to catch a fresh bottle.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines

  30. #120

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Citron Citron by Miller Harris




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