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  1. #1

    Default A Citrus Exploration

    In 2019, I ended or sold most of my citrus, and as a resident of the American South, that means I’m in the market. I estimate that the weather is warm 9 months of the year where I live, and Mr. Kotori has referred to Memphis, TN seasons as “Sprautumn, Summer, and Super Summer.” As a native Chicagoan/Illinoisan, I tend to agree. And that means that I don’t have much time to find said citrus. It also means it ought to be on the affordable side, because I’ll be basically bathing in it. Not really, but I’ll likely be using 5-10 sprays each time. Don’t judge.

    The citruses I’m exploring tend to fit into one of three categories:

    1) Bigarade types (opaque, bitters, a bit rotten, maybe winter citruses like pomelo/grapefruit)— I love these and they fascinate me, but they don’t usually do Memphis summers without turning cat-pissy or armpitty.

    2) Eau de Cologne types— you know the ones— classic, bracing, maybe neroli-centric, probably with herbs or cypress— refreshing but not long-lasting in our summers. I’d have to make myself a decant for carrying.

    3) Bright Citruses— focused on a bergamot/lemon/Cedrat/citron/lime/chinotto accord, often more modern, with hedione or ambroxan or something to add sparkle or shore them up in the base

    I already have some summery alternatives to citrus such as tea, tea/floral, citrus/floral, greens, so this thread is not for that.

    What I finished this year:

    -Escale a Portofino by Dior
    -Orange Sanguine by Atelier

    What I sold this year:

    -Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde
    -Fils de Dieu by Etat Libre d’Orange

    Currently Have/Have Access To

    -Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune
    -Cheap & Chic I Love Love
    -Mysore Lime by Madhat (Mr. Kotori’s)
    -Dior Homme Cologne (Mr. Kotori’s)
    -Chanel Allure Homme Blanche (Mr. Kotori’s)
    -4711 (my son’s)
    -Eau de Minimes by Le Couvent de Minimes (my son’s)
    -Atelier Colognes mini boxed set (my son’s)
    -Sandalwood by Pacifica solid and rollerball

    Once Owned

    -Mandarine Tout Simplement by L’Artisan
    -Eau de Dior Coloressence Energisant (green)

    I have a few samples I’m going through, and several more on order.

    -Azemour Les Orangers by Parfum d’Empire
    -Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria by Guerlain
    -Eau de Cologne by Chanel
    -Eau de Cologne Imperiale by Guerlain
    -Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat by Guerlain
    -Eau de Cologne by Chanel
    -Bigarade Concentree by Malle
    -Eau d’Orange Vert by Hermès
    -Concentree d’Orange Vert by Hermès
    -Eau de Neroli Dore by Hermès
    -Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermès
    -Cologne Sologne by Nicolai
    -Come Together by Mugler (aka Mugler Cologne)
    -Eau d’Hadrien EDT by Annick Goutal
    -Eau d’Hadrien EDP by Annick Goutal
    -Eau de Sud by Annick Goutal
    -Basil & Neroli by Jo Malone
    -Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone
    -Orange Bitters by Jo Malone
    -Mediterraneo by Carthusia
    -Mandarino di Amalfi by Tom Ford
    -Mandarino di Amalfi Acqua by Tom Ford
    -Mon Numero 9 by L’Artisan
    -Pacific Lime by Atelier
    -Sundazed by Byredo
    EDIT TO ADD:
    -Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Arancia di Capri
    -Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cedro di Taormina
    -Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Mirto de Panarea
    -Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Chinotto di Liguria
    -Acqua di Bergamotto by Ermenegildo Zegna

    I also have a Lucky Scent order that recently came:

    -Acqua Viva by Profumum
    -Bergamot by The Different Company
    -Cologne Cedrat by Nicolai
    -Citrico by Comme des Garçons
    -Eau d’Italie
    -Entre Naranjos by Ramon Gonagal
    -Iskander By Parfums d’Empire
    -Mandarino di Sicilia by Perris Monte Carlo
    -Medie by Cire Trudon
    -Musk Cologne by Bortnikoff
    -Oranges & Lemons Say the Bells of St. Clemens by Heeley
    -Note du Yuzu by Heeley
    -Nice Bergamote by Essential Parfums
    -Via Camerelle by Carthusia
    EDIT:
    -Orange X Santal by Essential Parfums

    Note that some suggestions were out of stock.

    Also on their way:
    Blood Oranges by Shay & Blue
    -Cap Neroli by Nicolai

    EDIT-Tested at stores recently
    -Allure Homme Sport Cologne
    -Gentleman Cologne by Givenchy

    EDIT-Below is my rating scale for reviews:

    For Ratings:
    1/5- Scrubbed off
    2/5- Derivative, overly chemical, or uninspired
    3/5- Good! A well-executed idea that has been attempted repeatedly, or a less-than optimally executed creative idea
    4/5- Great! Buy this if you’re on the fence.
    5/5- Extraordinary-the pinnacle or reference of a genre, or a technical marvel

    For Longevity:
    1/5- Citrus aspect lasts 20 minutes or less
    2/5- Citrus aspect lasts up to 40 minutes
    3/5- Citrus aspect lasts 45 min to 1.5 hours
    4/5- Citrus aspect lasts about 2 hours
    5/5- Citrus aspect lasts more than 2 hours

    Feel free to make suggestions after reading this substantial opening post. Do you have experiences with any of these you’d like to share? Is there anything I should add to my Lucky Scent cart or sample list? Anything I should pass on? Most of all, I’d love to have you join me in my latest quest!
    Last edited by Kotori; 11th February 2020 at 04:29 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    I get bored of citrus scents easily. I lived in Phoenix (if you remember), and wore a lot of fougeres and musks in Phoenix summers, those ones sustained much better than citrus perfumes that would simply evaporate. I agree, 10+ sprays would be the way to go. I find the Hermes Les Jardins range interesting (specifically Sur Le Nil and Sur Le Toit). Have you considered Acqua di Parma? They have many nice and worthwhile citrus scents. The Essenza, Intensa and Assoluta flankers perhaps lean a tad masculine (these are largely in your second group), but the Bleu Mediterraneo range (loosely speaking, in your third group) is very sparkling and very much unisex. I don't find the point of paying top dollar for citrus scents, especially if they don't have novel accords, notes or twists but are simply long-lasting orange/lemon/grapefruit etc. They either don't last on my skin, or if they do, end up being a bit boring. If you're after tenacity, Cologne Indelebile and Profumum Acqua Viva are quite long-lasting. But I prefer more interesting compositions like Sur Le Nil.

    Two citrus scents worth trying out - Terre d'Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche, IMO it's excellent, somewhat in the ballpark of Bigarade Concentree but also has grapefruit and is very compelling. Another one is Dior Homme Cologne, a glorified lemon+musk, I'm not the biggest fan but many love it.
    Last edited by freewheelingvagabond; 5th January 2020 at 04:31 AM. Reason: grammar
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Feel free to make suggestions after reading this substantial opening post.
    Citrus Batikanga
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Good explorations on your list!

    Three more that I did not see there:

    Chanel Allure Homme Sport Cologne - one of the best bergamot openings out there, decaying into nice long faux citrus. Use within 3 years for best results (loses the amazing top slowly).

    Eau de Rochas - classic - just added my review. As worthy as the Chanel analog.

    Alvarez Gomez Aqua de Colonia Concentrada - unique drugstore EDC that will become a guilty pleasure.
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  5. #5
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Good explorations on your list!

    Three more that I did not see there:

    Chanel Allure Homme Sport Cologne - one of the best bergamot openings out there, decaying into nice long faux citrus. Use within 3 years for best results (loses the amazing top slowly).
    +1 on this, forgot to mention it!
    Currently wearing: New West for Him by Aramis

  6. #6

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    I get bored of citrus scents easily. I lived in Phoenix (if you remember), and wore a lot of fougeres and musks in Phoenix summers, those ones sustained much better than citrus perfumes that would simply evaporate. I agree, 10+ sprays would be the way to go. I find the Hermes Les Jardins range interesting (specifically Sur Le Nil and Sur Le Toit). Have you considered Acqua di Parma? They have many nice and worthwhile citrus scents. The Essenza, Intensa and Assoluta flankers perhaps lean a tad masculine (these are largely in your second group), but the Bleu Mediterraneo range (loosely speaking, in your third group) is very sparkling and very much unisex. I don't find the point of paying top dollar for citrus scents, especially if they don't have novel accords, notes or twists but are simply long-lasting orange/lemon/grapefruit etc. They either don't last on my skin, or if they do, end up being a bit boring. If you're looking after tenacity, Cologne Indelebile and Profumum Acqua Viva are quite long-lasting. But I prefer more interesting compositions like Sur Le Nil.

    Two citrus scents worth trying out - Terre d'Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche, IMO it's excellent, somewhat in the ballpark of Bigarade Concentree but also has grapefruit and is very compelling. Another one is Dior Homme Cologne, a glorified lemon+musk, I'm not the biggest fan but many love it.
    I always love your hot weather fragrance thoughts because you live in Phoenix!

    I’m most of the way through a bottle of Un Jardin Sur Le Nil right now and I adore its tenacity in the heat, and how humidity causes it to bloom. I plan to go through the rest of it should I not find a new summer citrus quickly. I know how you bore easily of citrus and prefer alternatives like vetiver and light florals. I would say I stick with teas and iris and light florals a lot of the time, but when I’m wanting a refreshing citrus, that’s what I want. Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche is a great idea to revisit. I think I only smelled once, during it the year it was released, and I think I was nose blind by then. Dior Homme Cologne was a sample I had for myself that Mr. Kotori commandeered and I bought for him after he used it up. It’s great, but it gives me a headache if I wear it myself.

    I saw Acqua di Viva by Profumum at Lucky Scent through the “You May Also Like” feature, and I wondered if it was good. I’ll add it to my cart. I may also revisit Cologne Indelible. I don’t remember it from when I tried it at Barney’s a year or so ago.

    The Acqua di Parma line is definitely top of mind. I recall enjoying Arancia di Capri and the Bergamotto. I smelled several of these at Epcot two years ago, but I was pretty nose blind after Guerlain. And the poor citruses always get the shaft when I smell a lot of things at once because they fade more quickly to my nose when I’m going nose blind. I wonder where I can get some AdP samples to refresh my memory? Does anyone know? *EDIT- Strike that— found a few at The Perfumed Court and a set of minis at Sephora.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  7. #7

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Citrus Batikanga
    This looks intriguing! I can always count on you to recommend something completely out of the ordinary! The chili pepper note sounds refreshing. Do they make samples, do you know? I suppose I could write them.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Good explorations on your list!

    Three more that I did not see there:

    Chanel Allure Homme Sport Cologne - one of the best bergamot openings out there, decaying into nice long faux citrus. Use within 3 years for best results (loses the amazing top slowly).

    Eau de Rochas - classic - just added my review. As worthy as the Chanel analog.

    Alvarez Gomez Aqua de Colonia Concentrada - unique drugstore EDC that will become a guilty pleasure.
    Thank you!

    I’ve seen Aqua di Colonia at Merz! Don’t remember smelling it but it was by the 4711 I think?

    And I’ve not smelled Eau de Rochas or the Allure Homme Sport Cologne. I’ll read your review.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  8. #8
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    This looks intriguing! I can always count on you to recommend something completely out of the ordinary! The chili pepper note sounds refreshing. Do they make samples, do you know? I suppose I could write them.
    I think you could get a sample of this from Essenza Nobile
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    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    l'm a big fan of Goutal's Eau du Sud, finding that it cuts through heat & humidity beautifully.

    l'd add Laconia by Tom Daxon to your list. lt's a high quality & very natural-smelling lemon with sea salt, & a base of Mediterranean herbs.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Askett& English Essential and Absolute.
    Currently wearing: Lui by Mazzolari

  11. #11

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Guerlain Eau d'Imperiale & Chanel EdC are both terrific, I'd venture to say classics, but obviously relatively fleeting. TDC Bergamote is great stuff as well.

    Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte is also good stuff. Eau de Guerlain is more of an EdT - almost a chypre-like cologne. Related, and also excellent if you can find them (both discontinued) are Guerlain Sous le Vent & Philtre d'Amour. I wear them a lot here in summer (HK) where we have months of 30+c with 80+% humidity.

    If you can find vintage Monsieur Balmain that's a great lemon one - the modern version is okay but a bit tame.

    I don't own any but I have liked a couple of the Atelier ones - they seem to have managed to cop citrus + a degree of longevity, which is a neat trick.

    I'd steer well clear of AA Pampelune - very pissy
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  12. #12

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    I personally tend to go for deeper citrus scents, probably because I live in a cold, wet climate, but I've come across some nice ones, let's see if they are for you:

    2 on your (to) sample list I own and would classify as wintery citrus scents:
    Jo Malone Orange Bitters - Whiskey cocktails by the fireplace; orange rind, amber, sandalwood
    Shay & Blue Blood Oranges - Not as wintery, but still a warmer, long lasting citrus, with a juicy top and a very woody base. Very long lasting

    In the fresher department I quite enjoy Armani's Oranger Alhambra. It has fresh, classically masculine lemon vibe (think Pour Monsieur) that is never harsh; a crisp white shirt type of scent.

    Heeley's Sel Marin is a fantastic, refreshing, and unusual scent that has lemon in it, so I'd say it counts as a citrus scent. Note de Yuzu is nice as well.

    I'm probably going to sound like a broken record at this point, but Hiram Green's Dilettante is worth checking out. It's technically more of an orange blossom scent, but to me it smells like a whole entire orange tree; fruit, bark, leaves, and honey bees included. It's definitely a heavier scent, but I find it works marvellously in extreme heat (that is 40 degrees C) because of its juicy/bitter/green notes. While you're at it, Lustre is a very dry citrus/rose scent that I could see working in extreme temperatures as well.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    I would suggest Xerjoff 1861 Renaissance. It's a nice citrus with mint. Aromatic, refreshing, and decent performance.
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Gueralin Eau de Cologne Imperiale is the one I like.

    Armani Eau Pour Homme and Chanel Pour Monsieur might work, too.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Cedro di taormina by adp
    Colonia assoluta by adp
    Ninfeo mio by goutal is another great one to try and has a bit more depth than eau de hedrien
    Eau pour le jeune homme by mpg
    Castile by penhaligans
    Cedrat environ by atelier
    L'eau mixte by nicolai
    Gs03
    Cologne indelible by fm
    Pegaso by etro

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    1. Sandalo by Lorenzo Villoresi
    2. Eau D'Hederin by Annick Goutal
    3. Neroli Portofino by Tom ford
    4. Gris Clair by Serge Lutens
    5. L'Ombre Dans L'Eau by Diptyque
    6. Colonia by Acqua di Parma
    7. Scandal by Roja
    8. Sublime Vanille by Creed
    9. Moon Safari by Memo
    10. Pour Homme by Paco Robanne
    Currently wearing: No. 88 by Czech & Speake

  16. #16

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    The Blu Mediterranean line is great as well as most of the aqua allegoria line
    You should consider nio by xerjoff, it's not affordible but you don't need to bathe in it either, two sprays is enough
    Lemon line by mancera is also good, candied, but good

  17. #17

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Also adding, apart from the already very good options already mentioned (both in the initial thread-starting post and the highly on topic, well informed and knowledgeable replys to this) especially:

    Voyage d'Hermes and/or Voyage d'Hermes Parfum
    Chanel Cristalle EDT and/or EDP
    Hugh Parsons Yellow
    Farina Gegenüber EDC
    Rhubarbe Pamplemousse and/or Verdon by l'Occitane
    Agua de Loewe
    Neroli by l'Erbolario
    most EDC releases by Le Couvent des Minimes
    Acqua di Genova EDC
    Cascaya by Gabriela Sabatini
    Xerjoff Uden and/or Nio

    to name only a few that might be still worth (re) testing among citrus fragrances, in addition to so many great options already mentioned.

    Also adding the slight disclaimer (though in most cases with little or no influence on the complexity, performance and/or quality of the fragrances mentioned) that some if not even the majority of these might not 100% qualify in only one of the mentioned categories and instead might cover 2 or even all the citrus categories specified.
    Did take all of these into consideration as crossover choices, because with some overlapping between each, the performance does stand out as good in the case of most. Along with their very diverse, quite elaborate nuances and subtleties as well.
    Currently wearing: L'Occitan by L'Occitane

  18. #18

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    I prefer Penhaligon's Castile and Banana Republic Neroli Woods to the Nicolai suggestions, although Castile is pretty soapy.

    In the Atelier line I don't think Bergamote Soleil can be beat.

    I agree with the Hermès Jardin series and the Acqua di Parma (especially the Blu Mediterraneo line) recommendations.
    How do you know what a French whorehouse smells like?

  19. #19

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    l'm a big fan of Goutal's Eau du Sud, finding that it cuts through heat & humidity beautifully.
    Isn’t it gorgeous? It kind of reminds me of a citric Odalisque. I bet it does do well in the heat, though it’s about 40 degrees F here now.

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    l'd add Laconia by Tom Daxon to your list. lt's a high quality & very natural-smelling lemon with sea salt, & a base of Mediterranean herbs.
    That I can’t find a sample of, but it sounds nice.

    Quote Originally Posted by Darvant View Post
    Askett& English Essential and Absolute.
    Looks like Merchant & Rhoades in Chicago is a stockist. I might be able to stop in for a sniff next time I’m visiting. Looks great!

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Guerlain Eau d'Imperiale & Chanel EdC are both terrific, I'd venture to say classics, but obviously relatively fleeting. TDC Bergamote is great stuff as well.

    Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte is also good stuff. Eau de Guerlain is more of an EdT - almost a chypre-like cologne. Related, and also excellent if you can find them (both discontinued) are Guerlain Sous le Vent & Philtre d'Amour. I wear them a lot here in summer (HK) where we have months of 30+c with 80+% humidity.

    If you can find vintage Monsieur Balmain that's a great lemon one - the modern version is okay but a bit tame.

    I don't own any but I have liked a couple of the Atelier ones - they seem to have managed to cop citrus + a degree of longevity, which is a neat trick.

    I'd steer well clear of AA Pampelune - very pissy
    I have samples of Eau de Guerlain Imperiale and Chanel EDC. I was about to spring for the Chanel when I got an itchy rash on my wrist while wearing it. It hadn’t happened before, but it makes me nervous. It smells a bit like Trix!

    Just picked up a sample of Concentree d’Orange Vert last night. Looking forward to it.

    Pamplelune I can only wear in the cooler weather or it’s pissy. My favorite Atelier is Orange Sanguine, but I’m over it. Bergamot Soleil and Cedrat Enivrant are the other two I enjoy but the woods are soooo strong.

    Those vintages sound beautiful.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  20. #20

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by yellowtone View Post
    I personally tend to go for deeper citrus scents, probably because I live in a cold, wet climate, but I've come across some nice ones, let's see if they are for you:

    2 on your (to) sample list I own and would classify as wintery citrus scents:
    Jo Malone Orange Bitters - Whiskey cocktails by the fireplace; orange rind, amber, sandalwood
    Shay & Blue Blood Oranges - Not as wintery, but still a warmer, long lasting citrus, with a juicy top and a very woody base. Very long lasting
    Good to know! I may pass on the Blood Oranges sample, then, since I already have an Orange Bitters sample coming.

    Quote Originally Posted by yellowtone View Post
    In the fresher department I quite enjoy Armani's Oranger Alhambra. It has fresh, classically masculine lemon vibe (think Pour Monsieur) that is never harsh; a crisp white shirt type of scent.
    This sounds excellent.

    Quote Originally Posted by yellowtone View Post
    I'm probably going to sound like a broken record at this point, but Hiram Green's Dilettante is worth checking out. It's technically more of an orange blossom scent, but to me it smells like a whole entire orange tree; fruit, bark, leaves, and honey bees included. It's definitely a heavier scent, but I find it works marvellously in extreme heat (that is 40 degrees C) because of its juicy/bitter/green notes. While you're at it, Lustre is a very dry citrus/rose scent that I could see working in extreme temperatures as well.
    I had a sample of Dilletante for all of about two days when I passed it on to another Basenoter along with a package I was sending because it was on her test list. I remember being surprised and thinking it didn’t smell like what I thought orange blossom smelled like. Initially orange blossom and I had a rocky start— things like Lutens affected me poorly. But the greenness sounds promising.

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I would suggest Xerjoff 1861 Renaissance. It's a nice citrus with mint. Aromatic, refreshing, and decent performance.
    How much performance would you say you get from it, out of curiosity? If it’s significant then the price point could be justified.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Gueralin Eau de Cologne Imperiale is the one I like.
    It has kind of a biscuit/ginger snap thing going on in the base, don’t you think?


    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Armani Eau Pour Homme and Chanel Pour Monsieur might work, too.
    I haven’t thought about that Armani since the 90’s— but I remember that beautiful lemon!
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  21. #21

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by satyen View Post
    Cedro di taormina by adp
    Colonia assoluta by adp
    Ninfeo mio by goutal is another great one to try and has a bit more depth than eau de hedrien
    Eau pour le jeune homme by mpg
    Castile by penhaligans
    Cedrat environ by atelier
    L'eau mixte by nicolai
    Gs03
    Cologne indelible by fm
    Pegaso by etro

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Also adding, apart from the already very good options already mentioned (both in the initial thread-starting post and the highly on topic, well informed and knowledgeable replys to this) especially:

    Voyage d'Hermes and/or Voyage d'Hermes Parfum
    Chanel Cristalle EDT and/or EDP
    Hugh Parsons Yellow
    Farina Gegenüber EDC
    Rhubarbe Pamplemousse and/or Verdon by l'Occitane
    Agua de Loewe
    Neroli by l'Erbolario
    most EDC releases by Le Couvent des Minimes
    Acqua di Genova EDC
    Cascaya by Gabriela Sabatini
    Xerjoff Uden and/or Nio

    to name only a few that might be still worth (re) testing among citrus fragrances, in addition to so many great options already mentioned.

    Also adding the slight disclaimer (though in most cases with little or no influence on the complexity, performance and/or quality of the fragrances mentioned) that some if not even the majority of these might not 100% qualify in only one of the mentioned categories and instead might cover 2 or even all the citrus categories specified.
    Did take all of these into consideration as crossover choices, because with some overlapping between each, the performance does stand out as good in the case of most. Along with their very diverse, quite elaborate nuances and subtleties as well.
    Thanks for these well thought out lists! I’ll cross reference.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  22. #22

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Valier View Post
    You should consider nio by xerjoff, it's not affordible but you don't need to bathe in it either, two sprays is enough
    Noted!

    Quote Originally Posted by Valier View Post
    Lemon line by mancera is also good, candied, but good
    This I remember hearing about. I’m not too good for a little candy in my lemon.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zilpha View Post
    I prefer Penhaligon's Castile and Banana Republic Neroli Woods to the Nicolai suggestions, although Castile is pretty soapy.
    I had forgotten all about Castile and Blenheim! Do they sell the Banana Republic Neroli at the stores, do you know?
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  23. #23
    Basenotes Institution Darjeeling's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    On the neroli front, another vote for Cologne Indelebile. Neroli Woods is a good budget neroli (almost soliflore rather than a full EdC formula, a bit like Neroli Portofino). I might be misremembering, but Neroli Woods May have been discontinued, although it might still be available.

    if you can handle poor longevity Acqua di Sicilia for Lemon and Acqua Colonia for a classic cologne (neroli, citrus, spices/clove) from SMN.

    The current formulation of Eau Sauvage is a sparkling citrus with a touch of moss in the base. As I’m not familiar with the vintage and dislike moss anyway, I think it’s still a worthwhile scent.
    1. No, never blind buy (I do, but do as I say, not as I do. I'm taking no responsibility for your fragrance gambling).
    2. Get them both. You're a Basenoter and you know you're going to end up purchasing them both eventually.
    3. Yes, it has been reformulated.
    4. Looking for a signature scent? You've come to the wrong place.

  24. #24

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Noted!






    I had forgotten all about Castile and Blenheim! Do they sell the Banana Republic Neroli at the stores, do you know?
    I got mine online, so I don't know.
    How do you know what a French whorehouse smells like?

  25. #25
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post

    How much performance would you say you get from it, out of curiosity? If it’s significant then the price point could be justified.
    The performance is fairly good for a citrus scent, I'm getting roughly 6 hours per wear give or take. Send me a PM
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  26. #26

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Perris Monte Carlo's Mandarino is exceptionally good and not talked about (0 reviews here). it lasts too...

    http://www.basenotes.net/ID26159273.html

    also highly rate A Lab on Fire's Almost Transparent Blue which i discovered this year - a fizzy, sugary lime that shines in hot weather.

  27. #27

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Eau de Cologne Imperiale by Guerlain
    Category 2: Eau de Cologne type
    Rating: 5/5
    Longevity: 2/5

    This is decidedly not the one with the biscuity ginger snap base. That must be Eau de Guerlain, which sample I seem to have mislaid. But that’s fine; I remember it well enough. This one is bracing with a tantalizing lemon opening that lasts only 5 to 10 minutes before fading into a warm, lemon-like herbal blend that reminds me a bit of lemon drops. I like the drydown, and it lasts for about 2 hours.

    Pacific Lime by Atelier Colognes
    Category 3: Bright Citrus type
    Rating: 3/5
    Longevity: 4/5

    Not my favorite of their offerings. It’s lovely, but it isn’t lime. And it isn’t astringent like some of my favorites: Bergamot Soleil and Cedrat Enivrant come to mind. After the first 5 minutes, it’s almost a direct copy of Pulp by Byredo, and like that beauty, it smells more like Papaya than citrus. To its credit, Pacific Lime is more sheer than Pulp, and would wear more easily in the heat. But Pulp is Pulp, and it doesn’t need a sequel.
    Last edited by Kotori; 10th January 2020 at 10:10 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  28. #28

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    I think you could get a sample of this from Essenza Nobile
    It appears that you can! Thanks— I’ll see if I can ship it reasonably.

    Quote Originally Posted by Darjeeling View Post
    On the neroli front, another vote for Cologne Indelebile. Neroli Woods is a good budget neroli (almost soliflore rather than a full EdC formula, a bit like Neroli Portofino). I might be misremembering, but Neroli Woods May have been discontinued, although it might still be available.

    if you can handle poor longevity Acqua di Sicilia for Lemon and Acqua Colonia for a classic cologne (neroli, citrus, spices/clove) from SMN.

    The current formulation of Eau Sauvage is a sparkling citrus with a touch of moss in the base. As I’m not familiar with the vintage and dislike moss anyway, I think it’s still a worthwhile scent.
    Cologne Indelible sounds like a must try. I’ll get my hands on some. Eau Sauvage is a true beauty and I enjoy it, but I still have half a bottle of its wilder sibling, Diorella, which doesn’t work too well on the hottest days here, as it takes on an indolic tinge that reminds me of a sweaty child. My family, in fact, dislikes Diorella. Arg. It’s a struggle over here at the Kotori house with those classic Diors. No one wants to hug me when I wear them.

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    The performance is fairly good for a citrus scent, I'm getting roughly 6 hours per wear give or take.
    That’s really decent, actually.

    Quote Originally Posted by wilfred View Post
    Perris Monte Carlo's Mandarino is exceptionally good and not talked about (0 reviews here). it lasts too...

    http://www.basenotes.net/ID26159273.html

    also highly rate A Lab on Fire's Almost Transparent Blue which i discovered this year - a fizzy, sugary lime that shines in hot weather.
    I was not familiar with these; thanks! Do you find the Mandarino to be on the bright side or the warm/dark side?
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  29. #29

    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    the Perris Monte Carlo is well balanced, like a delicate mandarin but with some real thickness to it. toward the brighter side, not overly green either and extremely natural smelling. probably the best mandarin i've put my nose on and much prefer it to the Tom Ford. sort of a hybrid of your categories.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: A Citrus Exploration

    I guess what's "affordable side" is going to vary from person to person.

    As to how many sprays... for me that would depend on the scent itself. There are some scents so big where that could get you arrested for waging chemical warfare.

    Anyway, FWIW, a few niche citruses I've tried lately that I've been fond of. Maybe not as affordable as others, but could be of interest if any other lurkers click the thread looking for off-the-beaten-path citrus recommendations.

    Di Ser: KazeHikaru - stunning expression of yuzu up front, dry down adds a little more herbal complexity.

    Folie a Plusieurs: Find Me (No. 1) - like waking up in at Italian citrus grove. Bergamot, lemon, orange blossoms, a hint of pine in the background... A little too feminine for me to wear personally, but if I smelled it on a date I'd be pretty intrigued.

    Moth & Rabbit: Enter The Void - a bit more avant-garde It's a Mark Buxton creation, so expect the unexpected. Big dose of grapefruit & lime up front, though, and not too tart - more zest, leaf, and blossom than inner fruit.




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