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  1. #1
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    Default Thoughts on Egoiste

    Monsieur Montana recently posted that his rating for vintage Chanel Egoiste is a thumbs down, the fragrance creator Jacques Polges called his favorite. I think Polges also said he wasn't crazy about oak moss, and I think the two are connected - I think he was running away from the kind of thing Monsieur Montana likes: mossy men's fragrances from the 70s and 80s.

    I'm sometimes surprised when I see Avecesar posting Egoiste as his scent of the day, because it does seem different, to me, from the style he and Monsieur Montana and some others normally prefer.

    What are you thoughts on Chanel Egoiste?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    ...
    Last edited by Sheik Yerbouti; 8th January 2020 at 07:52 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    As I have already posted I don’t like it.
    I know that many Basenoters are very fond of it and that’s why I ended buying a vintage bottle in order to see if there are differences in comparison to the current version. I didn’t like it then, I still don’t like it now.
    As I said it reminds me very much of one of the Denim Aftershaves from the nineties, which was awful to my nose.

    Bavard has spotted something interesting, something I have also thought about.
    If there is a person that has exactly the same taste in perfumes with me that is my “twin perfume brother” Avevesar.
    He seems to appreciate Egoiste.
    I “ll have to sell my bottle

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Consider the Powerhouse fragrance users group:

    http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=36

    Here's the introductory statement:

    A group for members who wear old-school and powerhouse styled masculine fragrances, with emphasis on fragrances released before 1990.

    Powerhouse fragrances from the 70's and 80's, colognes from the '60s, barbershop fragrances and aftershaves, and any other fragrance that exudes old-school masculine style are up for discussion here. Scents like Kouros, Pino Silvestre, Brut, Quorum, Giorgio For Men, Ho Hang, Moustache, Francesco Smalto Pour Homme, etc. are all good to go here.

    Modern niche fragrances need not apply!
    Does someone who's steeped in powerhouse mode really want to take a day off for Egoiste? Or does Egoiste fit right in with those?

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I was a member of this group for long time. Actually I was the only poster for a short period of time after the few of us who were active stopped posting. After that the Vintage SOTD came and somehow took the place of the older thread.
    I don’t consider Egoiste a Powerhouse although it is long lasting.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Only love for this for me.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I think he was running away from the kind of thing Monsieur Montana likes: mossy men's fragrances from the 70s and 80s.
    mossy men's fragrances from the 70s and 80s + animalics from the same period, are my most favorites also.
    Egoiste was instant love from first sniff, on the other hand Fahrenheit was instant hate from first sniff but since around 1991 become my most worn frag ever.
    1976 - Yatagan Caron
    1977 - Snuff by Schiaparelli
    1981 - Kouros YSL
    1988 - Fahrenheit Dior
    1980 - Patou Pour Homme
    1987 - Lapidus Pour Homme
    1981 - Quorum Antonio Puig
    1993 - Insense by Givenchy
    2014 - Dior Homme Parfum
    1987 - Ho Hang Club Balenciaga

  8. #8

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I really enjoy Egoiste, I think it’s fantastic. I don’t consider it a powerhouse in line with those mentioned. I associate powerhouses with more animalic qualities which I don’t get from Egoiste. It is an extremely smooth and well blended scent that performs very well for me.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I'd like to know of everyone's preference of Egoiste EDT to Egoiste Cologne Concentree and Bois Noir. How about the New York/Paris vs Paris only bottles? I really enjoy the New York/Paris bottles as it has stronger spicer opening vs the Paris only Egioste. At some point I'll showcase my collection of Egoiste.

    Among the three my favorite is the Egoiste EDT. While they all have slight differences they all come to the same glorious sandalwood dry down at the end. The vintage (EDT above Chanel) is still quite affordable, definitely backup bottle worthy for the long term for daily wearing purposes.

    I wouldn't mind having more Egoiste specifically the New York/Paris bottles, that juice is great stuff:

    EGOISTE NOV 93.jpg

    CHANEL EGOSITE EDT 90s.jpg
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  10. #10
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Monsieur Montana recently posted that his rating for vintage Chanel Egoiste is a thumbs down, the fragrance creator Jacques Polges called his favorite. I think Polges also said he wasn't crazy about oak moss, and I think the two are connected - I think he was running away from the kind of thing Monsieur Montana likes: mossy men's fragrances from the 70s and 80s.

    I'm sometimes surprised when I see Avecesar posting Egoiste as his scent of the day, because it does seem different, to me, from the style he and Monsieur Montana and some others normally prefer.

    What are you thoughts on Chanel Egoiste?
    It takes time to grow on you. The style of vintages liked by MM and Avecesar was an instant like for me. But Egoiste took time. Kouros (and other animalics) too took time.
    I think the scent profile of Egoiste and powerhouse is orthogonal and that is why one may like one style and not egoiste.
    Though in case of MM I think he likes stuff that is closer to Egoiste like Pandora PH (oriental fougere). So maybe oakmoss+lavendar is the key for him.
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  11. #11
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I think Egoiste Concentree and Bois Noir are fun to have as collector's items, and they're similar to Egoiste, but I think Egoiste is the best. I think the base of concentree isn't as nice, but I still really like it, and think it's one of the best flankers ever. Bois Noir smells refined, but a little too much, maybe, compared to Egoiste, which has more dried fruits, etc. From my testing, I think bottles of Egoiste made in Paris are better than the ones made in the US, but I probably wouldn't know the difference. I wouldn't bet on myself to always know Egoiste from Bois Noir, but I do think they're a little different. The best version of any of these that I've had is a 75-ml Egoiste splash made in Paris. It had the biggest crescendo in the opening.

    I see Hednic wearing Bois Noir a lot, and not Egoiste, and I recall him saying Bois Noir was his favorite Chanel, I believe, and I can certainly understand that. It is a nice, dressy version of Egoiste.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I prefer Egoiste Platinum over Egoiste. I don’t like the fact that Egoiste doesn’t let go of it’s intensity even after many hours. It’s overpowering sweet powderiness feels demanding to my nose. I don’t smell any natural sandalwood in the vintage Egoiste, which is understandable since it is from the 90’s. Vintage Bois de Iles features the real sandalwood note and is among my favorite fragrances. Egoiste Platinum is more oakmoss prominent to my nose and transitions well into the drydown.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Bois Noir smells refined, but a little too much, maybe, compared to Egoiste, which has more dried fruits, etc. From my testing, I think bottles of Egoiste made in Paris are better than the ones made in the US, but I probably wouldn't know the difference. I wouldn't bet on myself to always know Egoiste from Bois Noir, but I do think they're a little different. The best version of any of these that I've had is a 75-ml Egoiste splash made in Paris. It had the biggest crescendo in the opening.
    The intense spiced dried fruit opening of Egoiste did take me a little time to make peace with, and I think it's maybe what puts some people off, if they aren't into that kind of thing. The rosewood is also very intense and somewhat medicinal.

    It opens with a zing for sure, before mellowing out into that gorgeous vanilla sandal base. Now I wear it easily and love it - it's a wonderful winter dumb reach. Pleasing and versatile but interesting enough, great performance. Like many Chanels, it's so well thought out and executed.

    I've smelled Concentree and Bois Noir (thanks to you, I think!) and had a similar reaction as you. Frankly, not having spent much time with either, I'd be hard pressed to tell them apart from Egoiste if they weren't all side by side. They're nice, great even, but not sufficiently different from or better than plain ol' Egoiste to warrant seeking them out, unless one is determined to collect the trio.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 8th January 2020 at 09:17 PM.
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by Tradition View Post
    I prefer Egoiste Platinum over Egoiste. I don’t like the fact that Egoiste doesn’t let go of it’s intensity even after many hours. It’s overpowering sweet powderiness feels demanding to my nose. I don’t smell any natural sandalwood in the vintage Egoiste, which is understandable since it is from the 90’s. Vintage Bois de Iles features the real sandalwood note and is among my favorite fragrances. Egoiste Platinum is more oakmoss prominent to my nose and transitions well into the drydown.
    Interesting. For the Paris only EDT bottles, I consider Egoiste a subtle conservative scent that projects just enough to smell it but not enough to overpower in close proximity.
    The New York/Paris EDT bottles on the other hands carries a punch to it. Warm weather or body temperature allows this one to project for many hours after application. I could smell it 10-12 hours after conservative application.

    How does the Egoiste Platinum bottles smell compared to the sub-sequential Platinum Egoiste? I've never tried this early formulation of Platinum Egoiste. I only remember Platinum Egoiste following the fresh genre of its time when I tried it many years earlier. I didn't care for it at all.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I wore egoiste for the better part of a decade and had no idea about different versions. Bought bottles in NY and in Paris and actually got some concentree bottles in there by not knowing the difference!!! They all smelled fantastic and were noticeably Egoiste, though I remember occasionally stopping myself at the start of a new bottle and wondering why this one smelled better than the last(or Vice versa). Funny stuff. What a scent.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Impressive as a vintage, still very good in the current formulation compared to designer, even designer exclusive/niche fragrances valued at multiples of its current pricing- one of the best classic male rose-sandalwood chypre formulations, typically Chanel and typically French elegance at its best
    Currently wearing: Baobab by Tesori d'Oriente

  17. #17

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    783DF870-A1EB-4A61-9D11-B7E8E082DFD8.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Interesting. For the Paris only EDT bottles, I consider Egoiste a subtle conservative scent that projects just enough to smell it but not enough to overpower in close proximity.
    The New York/Paris EDT bottles on the other hands carries a punch to it. Warm weather or body temperature allows this one to project for many hours after application. I could smell it 10-12 hours after conservative application.

    How does the Egoiste Platinum bottles smell compared to the sub-sequential Platinum Egoiste? I've never tried this early formulation of Platinum Egoiste. I only remember Platinum Egoiste following the fresh genre of its time when I tried it many years earlier. I didn't care for it at all.


    I believe I have the Paris only Egoiste version. I feel it lacks modulation, the first reaction I get when I smell after hours of application is to rub it off, it’s hard to say exactly why it happens. I still keep it handy hoping some day this iconic fragrance might work for me.

    I have not done a side by side comparison between Egoiste Platinum and Platinum Egoiste but the latest version I tried at Macy’s smelled quite close to the original version.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    I wore egoiste for the better part of a decade and had no idea about different versions. Bought bottles in NY and in Paris and actually got some concentree bottles in there by not knowing the difference!!! They all smelled fantastic and were noticeably Egoiste, though I remember occasionally stopping myself at the start of a new bottle and wondering why this one smelled better than the last(or Vice versa). Funny stuff. What a scent.
    The biggest difference between the EDT and the Cologne Concentree that I could tell was a stronger focus on the spice accord at the opening in the Cologne Concentree and a stronger focus on vanilla and cinnamon in the edt. I think for the untrained nose, the differences are minimal to the point where one may not notice a difference.
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by Tradition View Post
    783DF870-A1EB-4A61-9D11-B7E8E082DFD8.jpg

    I believe I have the Paris only Egoiste version. I feel it lacks modulation, the first reaction I get when I smell after hours of application is to rub it off, it’s hard to say exactly why it happens. I still keep it handy hoping some day this iconic fragrance might work for me.
    I got that reaction with the modern formulation of Egoiste when I first tried and acquired it 6 years earlier. Early on I actually hated Egoiste and it wasn't until I smelled the vintage 90s formulation from Bavard did my view change on Egoiste. The early formulation was quite smooth while the current formulation at the time, Pre-2014, was very disjointed and harsh. I revisited it again last year and my impressions have not changed over those 6 years.
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I'd like to know of everyone's preference of Egoiste EDT to Egoiste Cologne Concentree and Bois Noir.
    Own and love all three. Mine are all original releases. My preference is for Bois Noir.
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    My prized collection of Egoiste. I have one 100ml from 1993 and one 50ml from 1990 in the back that are sealed. In the front I have one 75ml brand new splash from 1989 (likely a pre-release), one 75ml splash that has the sticker from the early days also 1990, and a 50ml New York/Paris bottle from the 90s - No batch code to confirm year. I also have one 50ml decant of the pre-2014 Egoiste from a split from 6 years ago.
    CHANEL EGOISTE COLLECTION JAN 2020.jpg
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  22. #22
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I'm slowly digesting some samples that N Cal Fragrance Reviewer sent me. I might eventually share my thoughts on the forum when I have a complete opinion formed on these.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I like powerhouses, amongst other things, and I love vintage Égoïste. Not necessarily for the same reasons, but if I only liked one kind of scent, I wouldn’t have hundreds.
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  24. #24
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Long version:

    I think the problem with Égoïste then as in now, was it created a far divergence from traditional masculinity in fragrances, in a similar manner as Dior Homme (2005/2012) did when it launched. Not to say they are related in any olfactive way (Égoïste is oriental and Dior Homme more oriental/gourmand hybrid), but that's the initial impact they both had. In fact, you can see how unsure Chanel really was about Égoïste by the way they used Bois Noir as a dry run before further tweaks were made to what inevitably became Égoïste, coupled with the bizarre advertising that eschewed traditional masculine tropes and aimed for abstract sensationalism instead (aka "very French").

    Jacques Polge himself said somewhere that Bois Noir/Égoïste was his personal pet project of trying to make a masculine version of Bois des Îles, so right from the start this steered wide from the usual "clean citrus/woods/mossy/musky" profile men had been used to up until that point. To be clear, there had been men's orientals and chypres aplenty before (Old Spice being a huge example of the former, Eau Sauvage being a huge example of the latter), but it was always the eau de cologne style scents and fougères that seemed to "top the charts" among men. Here comes Égoïste with it's noticeable sweetened rose and ambrette accords, both things typical of women's perfumes of the day.

    The leap from several generations worth of crisp green woody mossy scents or lavender-focused barbershop accords to something built on something soft and demure like sweet citrus, spiced rose, vanilla and musk mallow was nothing short of alienating for a lot of guys, just like sniffing the iris-lead "makeup accord" of Dior Homme in 2005. Sure, a lot of guys were highly intrigued, and Égoïste became a big enough cult hit to see a flanker (which itself was almost an upscale barbershop apology letter to men spurned by the original), but that flanker came to dominate it in sales because it was more conventional (however well-done it is). Nowadays you barely see Égoïste anywhere, but Platinum Égoïste by contrast is everywhere Chanel is sold.

    I'm not insinuating that guys who don't like Égoïste feel as they do because it isn't masculine like your typical powerhouse aromatic fougère, because let's not kid ourselves about the genderbendy stuff full of florals or animalics guys were wearing back then with zero problem, I'm just saying the cognitive dissonance for many arose from it being unlike anything guys were used to; even something like Boss/Boss Number 1 by Hugo Boss with it's rose/patchouli accord had enough masculine mooring to keep guys from spotting it's similarities to something like Ungaro Diva or the later Estée Lauder Knowing. Égoïste had no such mooring in conventional wisdom, and just sort of hangs its ass out there irreverently like a college kid mooning fans of the opposing football team during a game.

    In hindsight, spending enough time as a hobbyist in the perfume community, opening enough doors (like wearing designer feminines, really out-there unisex niche compositions, artisanals), you may eventually be able to circle back and learn to appreciate Égoïste after your tastes go through a few different stages of molting, but some people just like what they like and have no more room left to like anything else. I feel I may have reached that point with gaming and music to a degree, and I'll almost never enjoy a fruitchouli accord because it just smells like whatever they flavor Jello with but rubbed on my skin, so I can understand when somebody just can't enjoy what Égoïste presents, regardless of whatever else they may enjoy.

    As for me, Égoïste is a like not a love, and this is mostly due to the way Jacques Polge presents the damask rose in it. I like a sweet rose, but prefer it jammy if it's going to be sweet, which is why I love Azzaro Acteur so much. Égoïste's rose is spiced like Caron The Third Man, but moves into a sandalwood base polished with vanilla and ambrette, which gives a more syrupy sweetness muted by the mulled candy spice effect of the coriander and vanilla working together before the ambrette dominates near the end. The ambrette adds a "flowery yellow musk" effect which works well in old femme chypres when contrasted by galbanum or sharp woods, but here it just throbs and distorts the rest. It's not a dealbreaker and I do enjoy wearing Égoïste from an "appreciator of art" perspective, but that presentation of rose will never reach out and grab me.

    Polge did it again in Chanel No. 19, almost a spiritual successor to Égoïste, making the scent colder by removing the oriental elements and woody holdovers from Bois des Îles to focus on just citrus, rose, and ambrette with some other things. I almost daresay like it more than Égoïste, but aren't going to pay crazy prices for the DC'd Exclusifs EdT and find the heavier EdP version a bit unbalanced for personal enjoyment. Without the oriental elements and weight of masculine expectations in the original Égoïste, what I feel is the heart transposed into No 19 shines a little better, albeit under pale white florescent light rather than the warm white incandescent glow Égoïste has.

    In short: It's a weird one with deservedly hardcore fans, a bit polarizing to everyone else, and not my favorite way to handle the subject matter it presents, but I don't regret owning it, feeling as though No. 19 is an offspring of sorts to it.
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Your reviews are just incredible ZC. Thank you.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Great fragrance, at time of its creation fair compromise of tradition and "innovation", pale duration on my skin (and on the skin of people I know using to complain about the same factor).
    Currently wearing: Lui by Mazzolari

  27. #27

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    I have small vintage bottle ,bought it six years ago ,it's still full . I prefer Pour Monsieur ( Concentree) anytime.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    What are you thoughts on Chanel Egoiste?
    I know it's loved by many, but it just never did click for me, and I certainly never was wowed by it. It's just one of many "meh" scents, to me.
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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Your reviews are just incredible ZC. Thank you.
    Thank you!
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  30. #30

    Default Re: Thoughts on Egoiste

    Almost ashamed to answer in just a few sentences after Zealot Crusaders fantastic post. Anyway, it's one of the seven or eight fragrances of which I have collected a lifetime stash of. From the very first sniff I found it very pleasant and easy to love. Actually, I never realized that someone could dislike it. It strikes the perfect balance between elements perceived as classically masculine and the soft, sweet and floral elements. Nowadays people at fragrantica or whatever seems to view it as a super conservative old man scent, which doesn’t seem right. It's not masculine in any traditional way and its warmth and opulence makes it something I would not call conservative either. Luca Turin sometimes said about de Nicolai's New York that it simply smells good. Egoiste would be one of my top picks, if I were to use this line.




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