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  1. #31

    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    I assume you mean what's the LG... I don't know. Possibly in his materials lists he specifies but I haven't checked. (Edit, checked and his list just says Everynyl, and Givaudan as supplier.) Possibly it refers to the supplier? But who has those initials.

  2. #32
    Super Member Finelikeanoyster's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    its nothing Bill R. I had tried others sites, is not good, this is the only easy to access, with more books. Appears be uploaded by the self Brechbill.

    Well i not see before the chypre recipe because i see with hurry, the big list of formulas starts in p 90. Thanks. by anyform its not the coty, but i think it's not a bad perfume. A little thing is use of perfumersworld-vanilys.

    About L.G. is the above formula of drakkar noir, sorry
    What is the unicorn smell ? -Oh boy, it's like an angel !!
    Currently wearing: Tai Winds by Avon

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Finelikeanoyster, Perfumers Apprentice at one point published a formula for Coty Chypre, herewith:

    My other harddrive is having problems, so I have not checked other drives for other version formulas, so right now, I have just this one. I think that the comments in parentheses are from PA. I've not made this. But that is a whole lot of Bergamot.

    Chypre de Coty formula
    The Perfumer’s Apprentice Formula approximation:

    Bergamot, 225
    Cardamom 10%, 5
    Tarragon 10%, 35
    Clary Sage, 25
    Sweet Orange – 25
    Methyl Salicylate 10%, 5
    Jasmine Absolute, 40
    Rhodinol, 30 (rhodinol is related to citronellol and geraniol)
    Oakmoss 50%, 20 (not as much as you’d have guessed, right? )
    Benzoin oil, 50
    Civet absolute, 10
    Labdanum, 10 (not as much as you’d have guessed of THAT, either)
    Orris concrete 10%, 25
    Styrax, 5
    Tonka bean absolute, 20
    Vanilla absolute, 7
    Bulgarian rose, 3
    Rose de mai absolute, 30
    Methyl Ionone (violet), 40
    Patchouli, 25
    Vetiver acetate, 25
    Musk ketone, 30
    Jasmine blend, 25 (this is a proprietary blend available at PA)
    Ambrene 50, 25
    Ambergris tincture 5%, or Cetalox, 30
    DEP or IPM or DPG, 165
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    For any wondering what "Ambrene 50" might be, which I did: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/316...=1#post3229871

    Orange oil 15
    Lemon oil 15
    Bergamot oil 200
    Lavender oil 30
    Geranium oil 15
    Benzoin resin 25
    Labdanum resin 50% 50
    Tolu resin 50% 50
    Patchouli oil 20
    Sandalwood oil 15
    Coumarin 80
    Musk ketone 10
    Linalool 30
    Phenylethyl alcohol 10
    Myrrh resin 30
    Heliotropin 50% 20 (can use 2 x Heliotropin Replacer)
    Cinnamic alcohol 25
    Musk Xylene 30
    Vanillin 150
    Benzyl Acetate 40
    DPG or DEP 140

    TGSC also has the same formula albeit differing in some dilutions: http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/...dm1047682.html

    15.00 orange oil
    15.00 lemon oil c.p. furo coumarin reduced
    200.00 bergamot oil bergaptene reduced
    30.00 lavender oil
    30.00 linalool
    40.00 benzyl acetate
    15.00 geranium oil bourbon
    10.00 phenethyl alcohol
    25.00 siam benzoin resinoid
    25.00 labdanum resinoid
    30.00 myrrh resinoid
    25.00 tolu balsam resinoid
    20.00 patchouli oil
    15.00 sandalwood oil
    25.00 cinnamic alcohol
    80.00 coumarin
    10.00 heliotropin
    10.00 musk ketone
    30.00 musk xylol replacer
    150.00 vanillin
    200.00 DIPG
    1000.00 Total

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    For any wondering what "Ambrene 50" might be, which I did: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/316...=1#post3229871

    TGSC also has a formula, which differs: http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/...dm1060911.html
    yeah, Ambrene 50 info is not very hard to find... It's also in a lot of books around.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    I just meant that some other mainstream formulas are on that other site. Not perfuwoman's. I should of been more clear.

    I posted the best ones I could fine. All the others just seemed to be simple accords. Yeah I had a few links saved from her, that I was unable to find in any archives.

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Indeed, I went through it today, and found a lot from the site.

    Not everything is on the other site as mentioned above.

  7. #37

    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Yeah they aren't exact. You have to do some research to get a more accurate end result. I ended up adding the (25% iso e super right?) Into some of the general constituents listed. Im pretty happy with the results I got. Its a pretty cool general formula that can have multiple different results. Sorry I took out my notes from most of these.

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post
    where is the Iso E which makes up a good portion of the original formula? I am sure these "copies" are fine in their own right, but certainly not the actual formulas. good fun though I am sure.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Regarding the Fahrenheit . . . . . - thing.
    Uh, Yeah, missing 21.7% Iso E Super.
    Also doesn't fairly represent the musks, which is nearly 20%
    and also doesn't mention the importance of Methyl Heptine Carbonate, or Methyl Octine Carbonate.
    Beta Ionone is also way out of whack, as it is really only at 0.05%

    And how do you lump together Beta Ionone and Violet leaf? They are not related.

    I'd seen this formula , as it was sent to me before I knew a lot more, but even at the time it seemed farcical. Now I just laugh at it's absurdity.
    This is turning out to be an interesting conversation! Thanks for all of the comments you guys! It's fun to try and reconstruct these relics!
    I really like farenheit, or the aspects I've made from it so far!!!

    Thanks for the tips Paul, I hadn't heard about a few of those!

    It also has .07% norlimbanol I think.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Not sure what’s up but I can’t access any of the links in the perfuwomqn.livejournal.com site anymore. It says “access denied”.

  10. #40

    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Hmm, Well the GC that I have for Drakkar Noir has DHM at 7.8%, and Benzyl Sal at 20+%
    Also has 2.5% Corymbolone, which of course, we can't buy.

    Honestly, to have 15% DHM in a formula makes me shudder, and my teeth feel like they are grinding together..
    Thanks, Paul! I’m going to give it a shot, using less DHM, Benzyl Salicylate at app. 20% and substitute some similar materials. I probably went through dozens of Drakkar Noir bottles back in the day so this should prove fun.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Quote Originally Posted by Aromas Del Cielo View Post
    This is turning out to be an interesting conversation! Thanks for all of the comments you guys! It's fun to try and reconstruct these relics!
    I really like farenheit, or the aspects I've made from it so far!!!

    Thanks for the tips Paul, I hadn't heard about a few of those!

    It also has .07% norlimbanol I think.
    Well, I AM talking about my original issue Fahrenheit, that I bought myself in the 80's, and sent out for a GC test.
    It doesn't have any norlimbanol in the GC. But it might have something similar, because there is 6.34% that are captives/exotics.

    AND, the formula has likely changed since original issue.
    Last edited by pkiler; 17th January 2020 at 05:32 PM.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  12. #42
    Super Member Finelikeanoyster's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Oh thanks Bill, thanks PK, i even know PA published in past some formulas (i read in past threads, mitsouko, shalimar), but i can't imagine they published about the chypre, certainly this is a good direction, some things are not in, such the sandal, ylang and m. saxe. Now my head proliferates a lot of ideas, wintergreen istead of m. salicylate... did not have sassafras ? not having any C aldehyde ? well i need to search more about.

    I even see these and others appell's bases in tgsc, its good to see thats there, once the appell book is a 'secret of state'. Its a pity the formulas of PA are lost too
    What is the unicorn smell ? -Oh boy, it's like an angel !!
    Currently wearing: Tai Winds by Avon

  13. #43

    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Being inspired by this thread I decided to do my approach to the interpretation of D&G Light Blue pour Homme. Below is what I was able to come to. I have to admit that it smells pretty good and from what I can remember, you can recall the spirit of the original

    Habanolide, 100
    Helvetolide, 95
    Romandolide, 70
    Exaltolide, 40
    Ambrettolide, 20
    Cashmeran, 40
    Iso E Super, 420
    Timbersilk, 205
    Lixetone, 60
    Cedarwood Virginia EO, 40
    Santaliff, 80
    Norlimbanol, 40
    Koavone, 50
    Vetival, 20
    Cedramber, 40
    Ambrox Super, 30
    Z-11, 40
    Veramoss 50%, 40
    Frankincense, 10
    Isoeugenol 10%, 30
    Black Pepper 10%, 45
    Beta Caryophyllene, 20
    Hedione, 200
    Hedione HC, 100
    Lilial, 100
    Lyral, 55
    Hydroxycitronellal, 35
    Methyl Ionone, 30
    Beta Ionone, 30
    Aquanal, 50
    Precyclemone B, 40
    Geraniol, 25
    Citronellol 10%, 10
    Nerol, 30
    Hexyl Cinnamal Aldehyde, 40
    Calone, 15
    Triplal 10%, 20
    Coniferan Pure, 60
    Bornyl Acetate, 40
    Juniper berry EO, 10
    Coranol, 120
    Linalool, 60
    Rosemary EO 10%, 40
    DHM, 40
    Orange Flower Ether, 30
    Mandarine EO, 20
    Bergamot EO, 60
    Grapefruit EO, 100
    Total, 2895

  14. #44
    Super Member Finelikeanoyster's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Quote Originally Posted by Esdi View Post
    Being inspired by this thread I decided to do my approach to the interpretation of D&G Light Blue pour Homme. Below is what I was able to come to. I have to admit that it smells pretty good and from what I can remember, you can recall the spirit of the original
    Great esdi, thanks. imitating perfumes are not ethical, but if formulas are for information purposes is very fine, same the 'spirit' are welcome. Some perfumes are lost because their reformulations, I agree for example, past perfumes not need be secret thing, once they was discontinued, or pessimous reformulated, actualy exists few interested in use these oldies (today try to sell for mass is ridiculous), so ... besides the formulas can be helpful to the moderns perfumers.
    What is the unicorn smell ? -Oh boy, it's like an angel !!
    Currently wearing: Tai Winds by Avon




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