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  1. #31
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I smelled the vintage parfum reconstruction at the Osmotheque. I also smelled an old edt, which was actually less leathery and more animalic, but it's hard to know whether it was in perfect condition.
    Have you ever smelled the EdC?

  2. #32

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    I don't think so-or perhaps what I smelled was an edc-not really sure.

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Cuir de Russie having faded to a memory after eight hours, my SOTE is Molinard Habanita. This starts out with the olfactory equivalent of multiple personality disorder, but soon settles into more familiar leather chypre territory. Far from Knize Ten's butch black leather or Cuir de Russie's elegant saddle, Habanita is the favorite leather-bound romance novel of a tobacconist's generously perfumed daughter—a musty tome she inherited from her mother.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Still in my "pre-roll" phase, today's reference sample is Dior Leather Oud. Back in the saddle, only the horse is an Arabian, and we're warming ourselves by an agarwood campfire. Apart from this context, it isn't really a "reference" anything: it's far from a textbook oud or leather, but rather an abstract riff on both. Apparently, this is a highly divisive scent, but so far I'm finding it very wearable in a way Habanita ultimately was not after the vanilla and musk in the base grew suffocating. Let's see how I feel in a few hours.

  5. #35

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    I didn't find Habanita leathery-but it seems that in the drydown you didn't find that either.

    Funny that by chance I am wearing Leather oud today as well. It's freezing here in DC today, so these warm perfumes do very well. I agree it doesn't fall neatly into any particular category. there's a bit of everything: dirty musk, animalic leather, oud, and ambers. (In a way, the simpler Oud ispahan, lacking many of the musks and leathers, is closer to a standard oud reconstruction).

    cacio

  6. #36
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Yes, Habanita has leather in it, but in a supporting role. My wife said she used to wear it, but on me she found it more scrubbable than lovable. It might be better more sparingly applied. In any case, I wanted to know, and now I do!

    I haven't yet nosed Oud Ispahan, but Leather Oud is making me more curious about the Dior Privée line. One thing at a time…

  7. #37
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    With Dior Leather Oud now behind me, the evening belongs to Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque. The “cuir” in the name notwithstanding, this is more like spiced orange cider, the hot mug clasped in leather-gloved hands. It’s a delightfully autumnal treat if you like cinnamon and cloves, but if you’re seeking a leather-forward scent, look elsewhere.

  8. #38

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    As usual, different perceptions. To me CM has a pretty strong leather note.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    As usual, different perceptions. To me CM has a pretty strong leather note.
    This may be because I've been doing leather after leather, so it's the differences rather than the similarities that register more for me now. Still, surely the orange spice notes ring loud and clear, however much leather there is. I prefer the Knize, Chanel, and Dior to CM, but I prefer the Lutens to the Molinard—at least, on my skin. I might love Habanita on someone else.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    I do struggle with its mustiness, a vibe I’m aversely sensitive to.
    Ultimately, so did I. It wasn't such a problem in the early stages, but it became highly problematic in the drydown.

  11. #41

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Luckily no mustiness for me in Cuir de Russie (current or vintage). I wonder whether the birch tar of vintage might have cut through that sense.

    Speaking of which-one thing to remember of Habanita is that this is a recent version. I will guess that vintage had a richer drydown, perhaps with oakmoss.

    cacio

  12. #42
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Luckily no mustiness for me in Cuir de Russie (current or vintage). I wonder whether the birch tar of vintage might have cut through that sense.

    Speaking of which-one thing to remember of Habanita is that this is a recent version. I will guess that vintage had a richer drydown, perhaps with oakmoss.
    No, no mustiness in CdR! I remain mildly curious about vintage Habanita, but it’s a low priority compared to the much costlier vintage Chanel.

  13. #43
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    I’ve spent an enjoyable morning exploring the trio of leathers kindly shared with us by Cacio. As we all know, there are many different interpretations of leather in perfumery. I’m posting my notes, in order of preference, and then I will read up on what others have said and perhaps add some more thoughts. Thank you Cacio! Your sample passes keep me from becoming completely out of touch with contemporary perfumery.

    Atelier Parfumeide Tabac Cuir (N.D.) Cologne Intense

    My favorite leather perfumes include hesperidic vintage leathers such as Azuree and Bandit, and I also like more ambered leathers such as Tabac Blond. Tabac Cuir is like a cologne version of a combination of those scents. The opening citrus note smelled like a bergamot or lime, a creamy and slightly syrupy iris, a dash of pepper. The leather in the base is fairly subtle, but feels natural, along with a breath of civet and perhaps some benzoin or tonka. A light scent, without much projection but very elegant.

    Indult Reve en Cuir 2008 EDP

    In the opening moments, this scent is strongly reminiscent of the smell of children’s vitamins—Sweetart candies mixed with the smell of meat and iodine. I didn’t perceive any realistic floral notes, perhaps a hint of lilac or heliotrope, along with a touch of cloves. The scent has very little projection even upon application. You really have to get close to smell this. As Reve en Cuir dries down, the leather emerges, faint at first and then expanding into a quite realistic note, like a purse made of naturally tanned leather. I enjoyed the character of leather note—it was smooth and lacking any of the sticky-raspy modern musks that I do not enjoy; however, it faded away fairly soon. I feel this scent leans feminine, despite the leather. The persistent candied sweetness just made me “Think Pink.”

    The Zoo No Perfume (2018)

    No Perfume opens with quite sour, acrid, and strong smoke. Slowly, a somewhat rubbery or plastic leather note emerges from beneath the cloud of smoke. The sour sharpness persists, so I do not perceive a natural-smelling leatheriness. This has a moderate projection of less than foot, but smelled up close, the scent is quite intense. This is definitely “No Perfume”: there is no hint of any flowers, fruits, herbs, spices, resins or anything usually associated with perfumery here. I know this kind of scent is popular now: it smells edgy and suggests that you have been up to no good. It reminded me of how my hair used to smell after a night out in the clubs in the 80’s, after being steeped for hours in cigarette smoke (I was never a smoker). No matter how tired I was, I couldn’t wait to shower

  14. #44

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Concurring that the indult is weakish (not necessarily a bad thing in this case). And that no perfume is nose searing. I used a paper tissue on the spray as I was preparing the samples-and the tissue has been perfuming my bathroom for a week now.

    cacio

  15. #45
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Read backwards, and I think that my impressions align pretty well with those of the blood on 530 27.

    We both found Tabac Cuir “elegant.”

    I also enjoyed this comment: “The name Reve en Cuir may be apt after all: the leather is only in a dream, it never manifests itself. This is a clove perfume for me.” I also perceived clove, but not too much, but I did get some leather in the middle phase, although it faded away in the late drydown.

    And this assessment of No Perfume made me laugh: “nothing you wanna wear when you need to smell good.” I said it would make you smell like you were up to “no good.” I think No Perfume may suit some niche consumers very well, but it’s clearly not for us.


    Cacio, I tested No Perfume on skin, as I usually do before I scrubbed it, but I could tell that it would last a long time. It seems to contain the type of WAC’s that I find last almost indefinitely on paper.

    Looking forward to reading the reactions of others to these very interesting samples
    Last edited by grayspoole; 23rd February 2020 at 02:03 PM.

  16. #46
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Winding down my references, today’s leather is New York Intense by Nicolaï. As an intense New Yorker by birth, I can confirm that this is what I want to smell like.

    Not so much a leather proper as an impression of leather created by the petit grain and black pepper with subtle underlying animalics. But very nice all the same. And, unlike either Habanita or Cuir Mauresque, enthusiastically approved by Mrs. S.
    Last edited by PStoller; 22nd February 2020 at 10:52 PM.

  17. #47

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    No leather for me in NY intense. But fully agree with you. It's wonderful. De Nicolai gave up on trying to do oakmoss and came up with a great drydown of its own.

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    No leather for me in NY intense. But fully agree with you. It's wonderful. De Nicolai gave up on trying to do oakmoss and came up with a great drydown of its own.
    Yeah, now it's on my "to buy" list. Tomorrow, Miss Balmain; next week, the Three Random Leathers at last!

  19. #49
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    [COLOR=#000000]

    The Zoo No Perfume (2018)

    it smells edgy and suggests that you have been up to no good. It reminded me of how my hair used to smell after a night out in the clubs in the 80’s, after being steeped for hours in cigarette smoke (I was never a smoker).
    Huh! Edgy! That’s the word I’m looking for. Nothing perfumery.
    “The French have a phrase for it. Those bastards have a phrase for everything."

  20. #50
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    My final preliminary reference sample is vintage Miss Balmain EDT. The name notwithstanding, I don’t find this particularly feminine at all, though Mrs. S. disagrees. Here at the start, I get primarily butch leather and castoreum, with indistinct florals that serve as background singers out of the spotlight (save for one faint, slightly grating note that I think is lily of the valley). I await its evolution, but so far, it’s easily jumped ahead of Cuir Mauresque.

    Interestingly, on my skin, the leather recedes after a bit and MB transfers into a green floral. Less butch, but still unisex.
    Last edited by PStoller; 23rd February 2020 at 10:17 PM.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    With Dior Leather Oud now behind me, the evening belongs to Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque. The “cuir” in the name notwithstanding, this is more like spiced orange cider, the hot mug clasped in leather-gloved hands. It’s a delightfully autumnal treat if you like cinnamon and cloves, but if you’re seeking a leather-forward scent, look elsewhere.
    I recommend you try Creed Royal English Leather, that one has a more traditional leather accord.
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  22. #52
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I recommend you try Creed Royal English Leather, that one has a more traditional leather accord.
    At some point, I imagine I will. Alas, it isn't in Cacio's wardrobe, which was a prerequisite for this round of sampling.

  23. #53
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    The Zoo No Perfume (2018)

    Like a number of other Zoo scents that I've tried from the sample pass last year this one is no exception of having a stronger synthetic feel. The opening was filled intense smoke and ash. There's certainly a presence of something that was recently been burned likely rubber. Underneath it all was a rugged leather accord. While the opening does seem settle down thankfully, there's very little development that I can see. Wearing this scent only reminded me of the terrible wildfires that we've had here in California the last few years. You wake in the morning and head out to work and you can smell the ash from the wildfires. The same could be said leaving the office at the of the day. Overall I have to say that I didn't enjoy this one at all.
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Indult Reve En Cuir (2008)

    Unlike the first sample, this one was much more gentle to the nose. A very spicy aromatic opening. I'm greeted by notes of cardamon and cloves both of which have a slight sweetness to. It has a nice warm inviting feel to it, something that could work around the holidays. Unfortunately the performance was rather weak, it quickly became a skin scent not too long after application. The dry down consisted of woods and vetiver. Although there's no leather the combination of notes at the base can easily lead to the interpretation of which I could see. Not bad overall but I would prefer a little bit more for performance.
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Parfumeide Cuir Tabac

    The opening had a brief note of zesty bergamot before some fresh peppers took over. The leather becomes prominent in the base. There's also a minimum presence of vanilla at the base which makes me remind of Tom Ford Oud Wood, the dry down has a slightly burnt rubber smell. Unlike the other two this one felt more authentic for a leather accord. The kind of leather that I'm reminded of is the material used in shoes with the presence of smell of perhaps rubber insoles. Overall It's the most elegant smell of the three.
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  26. #56

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    It seems there is general dislike for No perfume.

    Re Miss Balmain, I agree, it's not really a leather. It's an old style chypre with a green and leathery facets. But old style chypres were quite potent. I believe this was done by Germaine Cellier, the same perfumer as for the more directly leathery Jolie Madame.

  27. #57
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Re Miss Balmain, I agree, it's not really a leather. It's an old style chypre with a green and leathery facets. But old style chypres were quite potent. I believe this was done by Germaine Cellier, the same perfumer as for the more directly leathery Jolie Madame.
    And early Piguets, including the very leathery Bandit.

  28. #58
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Finally, the actual random leathers that are this thread's raison d'être!

    First up: Zoo No Perfume. Smells less like leather than like burning wood and rubber. If there's anything natural in this, the perfumers have gone to great lengths to hide it. I don't mind NP, actually, but I couldn't see buying a bottle.

  29. #59
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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Thanks Cacio for the samples. I am starting with Parfumeide Cuir Tabac.

    It starts out with spices and boot-polish leather. The spices I detect are cardamom and little cumin.
    Within a few minutes I also detect a milky accord giving this a masala chai vibe.
    As it settles down I also get a Tonka/tobacco note.
    I have Montale's Arabian and this reminds me a bit of that.
    Overall - Interesting leather but does not last long at all.
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  30. #60

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    Default Re: 3 random leathers - pass the sample

    Yes, Germaine Cellier has many masterpieces to her credit, Bandit, Fracas, Vent Vert, Jolie Madame, Cravache, etc etc

    Tabac Cuir lasts well on me. The shorter lasting one on me is the Indult.

    cacio




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