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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Scooby View Post
    Message him and ask for a sample, I got 2 when I ordered No. 50 Civet Cat Chypre.
    Good idea! I kind of hate to ask for things even though I'd happily give out freebies, whether they were asked for or not.

    As an update, I contacted Matt and his reply was "100% you absolutely can :-)". Can't be more accommodating than that.
    Last edited by AlphaFrank75; 20th February 2020 at 01:51 PM.

  2. #32
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Unkle Punkle View Post
    Is this the same guy (Matt Meleg) who got banned from Basenotes last year after upsetting a few people (David Ruskin, Paul Kiler and others) on the DIY forum?
    Yep

  3. #33

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by AlphaFrank75 View Post
    Yep
    Thanks, I'll say no more.
    Last edited by Unkle Punkle; 19th February 2020 at 07:34 PM. Reason: adding info

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Darn, I broke down and blind-bought a bottle of No. 40 Natural Oak Moss and Forest Florals. I hope I don’t regret it, but the notes really do seem right up my alley... I guess in a week or two we will see.
    Last edited by drseid; 20th February 2020 at 08:27 AM.
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    2) Giorgio V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    4) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    5) Jasmin Antique (Rogue)
    6)
    Anat Fritz and its reissue, called Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie

    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Still holding back but I’m drawn to No.8: 1980s Dad’s Greenshave. :grin;
    I requested a sample of that one, now called No.8 Herbs and Spices on Etsy (and No. 59 - Tobacco, Roses and Frankincense), so should be able to report on my experience in a couple weeks as well.

    Oh yes, the label pictures of the various offerings have now been replaced with the current (far more professional looking) ones on Etsy in the last couple days.
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    2) Giorgio V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    4) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    5) Jasmin Antique (Rogue)
    6)
    Anat Fritz and its reissue, called Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie

    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Unkle Punkle View Post
    Thanks, I'll say no more.
    Peaks my interest. I remember Matt's argument, where he challenged other Basenoters. His Curiousity and Artistic temperament has sent him forward to produce with some apparent success!
    I have Civet Cat Chypre on the way and may commission a Custom scent. Pricing seems reasonable.
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Watching this thread, many of you guys have tastes similar to mine.
    Favorite 10 (in no specific order):
    MAAI (Bogue)
    Tiffany for Men (vintage) / Heritage (Guerlain) (tie)
    Santos (vintage) (Cartier)
    Feu Secret (Fazzolari) / New Sibet (Slumberhouse) (tie)
    Peety (O'Driu)
    Basenotes Kiss My Ass (O'Driu)
    Ruh (original) (Pekji)
    Bond T (Sammarco)
    Realoud (Phoenicia)
    Tropic of Capricorn (Olympic Orchids)

  8. #38

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    I would say this is similar to a natural, almost narcotic Egoiste, and maybe better. Noses better trained than mine can perceive more.

    ... That's a bold statement my friend.

    (I just ordered the sampler set a little while ago, so we will have to see)

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Am hoping that y'all will write back with reports on these individual scents!

    As someone with an extreme interest in natural civet and deer musk, I am all ears.

  10. #40

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    My samples arrived yesterday. First one i tried was Honey & Deer Musk Vintage #39. It is very sweet the entire time, with honey almost always being in the picture. Some would probably say this leans feminine but i personally would call it unisex. At first the musk is quite light, in fact the entire fragrance itself feels very light at first, at least on my skin. As it develops the musk really takes over for periods and feels much more dense during those times. It almost goes back and forth in a way. The musk for the most part is wonderful, though at times did get a little stinky but never for very long. If you like deer musk i think you will really enjoy this one. Jury is still out on it for me, will have to try it again once i make it through the rest.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by avo1811 View Post
    My samples arrived yesterday. First one i tried was Honey & Deer Musk Vintage #39. It is very sweet the entire time, with honey almost always being in the picture. Some would probably say this leans feminine but i personally would call it unisex. At first the musk is quite light, in fact the entire fragrance itself feels very light at first, at least on my skin. As it develops the musk really takes over for periods and feels much more dense during those times. It almost goes back and forth in a way. The musk for the most part is wonderful, though at times did get a little stinky but never for very long. If you like deer musk i think you will really enjoy this one. Jury is still out on it for me, will have to try it again once i make it through the rest.
    this one is beautiful for layering though.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by avo1811 View Post
    My samples arrived yesterday. First one i tried was Honey & Deer Musk Vintage #39. It is very sweet the entire time, with honey almost always being in the picture. Some would probably say this leans feminine but i personally would call it unisex. At first the musk is quite light, in fact the entire fragrance itself feels very light at first, at least on my skin. As it develops the musk really takes over for periods and feels much more dense during those times. It almost goes back and forth in a way. The musk for the most part is wonderful, though at times did get a little stinky but never for very long. If you like deer musk i think you will really enjoy this one. Jury is still out on it for me, will have to try it again once i make it through the rest.
    Sounds like it would keep the wearer engaged. I see it has both genuine deer musk and civet so it might be a little much for some. Have you worn Zoologist Bee or Hiram Green Slowdive and if you have can you make any comments on how they compare? Enjoy.

  13. #43
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    This thread also roused my curiosity and I now have the following samples from Matt Meleg—promptly shipped with a lovely note.

    Honey & Deer Musk Vintage No 39
    Natural Oak Moss & Forest Florals Perfume No 40
    Civet Cat Chypre No 50
    Silkensuede Blonde 38 (a bonus sample!)

    I’m not going to follow Matt’s notes, but will provide my own impressions as I wear these...

    I wore Honey & Deer Musk No. 39 last night and enjoyed it very much. As it says on the tin, it’s a rich, snuggly, resinous musk with a sweet honey note that doesn’t become cloying or develop any kind of urinous sharpness. If you like Bal a Versailles or Hiram Green’s Slow Dive, you would probably appreciate this too. Long lasting and not especially animalic, just a warm rounded muskiness.

    Just put on Natural Oak Moss & Forest Florals Perfume No 40. This has oakmoss as I understand it from my vintage perfumes: velvety, peaty, rich with iodine, and with a tiny bit of burnt sugar. A little bergamot, but not strongly hesperidic. Violets emerging from the leaf mold...

    I am quite impressed with what I have tried so far and I will update as I go. Having observed the brouhaha on the DIY Forum in horrified fascination (Can’t we all get along?), I am happy to see Matt executing his vision and producing good perfumes.

  14. #44

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by U2u View Post
    Sounds like it would keep the wearer engaged. I see it has both genuine deer musk and civet so it might be a little much for some. Have you worn Zoologist Bee or Hiram Green Slowdive and if you have can you make any comments on how they compare? Enjoy.
    Never tried Slowdive but Bee is much denser and sweeter than honey & deer musk. Bee for the most part reminded me of the smell of shisha actually. Ive read some people get a "urine" vibe from Bee, i never really got that from Bee or honey & deer musk.

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Honey & Deermusk is nothing like Slowdive (I haven’t tried Bee but I own a full bottle of Slowdive and love it). It is more a musk tamed by honey, and the musk comes out slowly and reveals its beauty. I do think it is a bit incomplete. I love it with another perfume, say Clovewood Lounge No 31 making it exquisite.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Honey & Deermusk is nothing like Slowdive (I haven’t tried Bee but I own a full bottle of Slowdive and love it). It is more a musk tamed by honey, and the musk comes out slowly and reveals its beauty.
    I'll have to dig out my Slowdive sample and directly compare, rather than relying on memory. How would you describle the differences between Slowdive and No. 39? Do you find Slowdive more musky throughout?

  17. #47
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by AlphaFrank75 View Post
    I did a quick search and found this ---> 5 Icky Animal Odors That Are Prized by Perfumers

    Here's a little paragraph from the website:

    "In the meantime the quest for a thoroughly humane way of harvesting civet continues. I have found a company in Thailand that appears to be selling sustainable, humanely produced civet. They keep three hundred civets, which they tell me they feed twice a day, on bananas, rice, and meat. Each civet has its own wooden cage, which is cleaned every three days. In the middle of the cage, there is a wooden stick about two inches in diameter and a yard long onto which the civet releases its paste. Every morning the paste is collected from the stick and the stick is replaced. "
    Thank you for the information.

    Personally, I have a great struggle with the idea of using any real civet paste in perfumes. On one hand, the conditions this source supposedly keeps for their civets sounds somewhat admirable compared to the more typical methods previously used and documented (which I'm sure we could all agree sound sketchy at best and downright cruel at worst).

    On the other hand, I have a personal moral objection to the idea of somebody keeping a civet cat (or, as this source claims, 100 of them) in captivity if it wouldn't otherwise be (such as if it was a rescue/rehabbed animal). I also think the idea of keeping an otherwise-wild animal in captivity for the sole purpose of a luxury product is immoral.

    Critically, I'm not saying this to detract anyone from the brand or to sway anyone's opinions on the topic. I'd just like to know if any others have these types of internal dialogues and, if possible, if anyone knows more about this supposedly more-ethical source of civet paste. I'd like to personally understand more about it if I were ever to entertain the notion of trying out Civet Cat Chypre.

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Received my order of Perfume No. 50 Civet Cat Chypre and a generous sample of No 34 Vienna Chocolate Patchouli: "Vienna 1900". I'm doing a simple test of both on each wrist this evening.

    No. 50 is my first exposure to true civet so it might take some time to see if I'm going to like this or not. The opening, especially the first few minutes are a bit off-putting. After about 10 minutes it's calmed down a bit and turning into something worth exploring more.

    No. 34 was an instant love for me for the first few minutes. A beautiful patchouli. Now that a bit of time has passed it has leaned a bit more towards the feminine side. I still think it's a beautiful fragrance. Whether or not it's for me at this point, only time will tell.

  19. #49

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by SubUmbra View Post
    Thank you for the information.

    Personally, I have a great struggle with the idea of using any real civet paste in perfumes. On one hand, the conditions this source supposedly keeps for their civets sounds somewhat admirable compared to the more typical methods previously used and documented (which I'm sure we could all agree sound sketchy at best and downright cruel at worst).

    On the other hand, I have a personal moral objection to the idea of somebody keeping a civet cat (or, as this source claims, 100 of them) in captivity if it wouldn't otherwise be (such as if it was a rescue/rehabbed animal). I also think the idea of keeping an otherwise-wild animal in captivity for the sole purpose of a luxury product is immoral.

    Critically, I'm not saying this to detract anyone from the brand or to sway anyone's opinions on the topic. I'd just like to know if any others have these types of internal dialogues and, if possible, if anyone knows more about this supposedly more-ethical source of civet paste. I'd like to personally understand more about it if I were ever to entertain the notion of trying out Civet Cat Chypre.

    There was a discrepancy I brought up about his civet paste because the company he sourced his current civet paste from is not the same as the stuff that Mr Dan sources from apothecarys garden. It’s misleading to say there’s ethical civet paste when it doesn’t exist. At all. From my understanding there’s ONE singular farmer who supposedly treats the civets well but it’s only sourced through apothecarys garden. His current batches are sourced through Firmench or whatever the supplier is called. I brought it up to him and I was told my moral compass wasn’t inline with science because plants feel pain and that since I eat plants its just the same as abusing and torturing animals for their perfume.

    This isn’t a dig at all on Matt but it is a discrepancy that I brought up because I don’t want to wear something that’s the result of unnecessary suffering. I appreciate his overal eccentricity but it’s extremely misleading on his end.

  20. #50

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Miguel Matos called and wants his label-maker back
    Currently wearing: Boy Chanel by Chanel

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkyriddle View Post
    I brought it up to him and I was told my moral compass wasn’t inline with science because plants feel pain and that since I eat plants its just the same as abusing and torturing animals for their perfume.
    Oof, that’s a cringe-worthy “gotcha” - how will you ever recover from such wit? ;D

  22. #52
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    My bottle of No. 40 arrived today, along with the two requested samples to try out. Of course, wasting no time I have all three on skin as I write this...

    No. 40 was the one I expected to love and made the blind-buy commitment expecting a vintage style mossy green chypre, but at least early-on this is presenting as an overly powdery primarily yellow floral concoction with the oakmoss also presenting more as powder than exhibiting its mossy facets that I crave and expected. So far, this one is “meh.” I hope it develops to something else... we shall see. As I sniff my wrist again about 30 minutes in the composition is now coming off smelling like face powder used at Men’s barbershops. Not really my thing at all.

    As for the samples...

    No.8 started off with a nice herbal and slightly aromatic spice barbershop vibe, but a couple minutes in, one of the ingredients went sour on my skin. I still kind of like the composition early-on, but alas, this too is a “pass” from me on the whole based on *very* preliminary time on skin.

    Finally, the other sample, No. 59, is a very natural smelling slight to moderately sweet deep pipe tobacco, adding sublime smooth frankincense support with hints of underlying florals. Early-on this minimalist perfume smells fantastic, matches the description and has some pretty decent projection as well. I wish I would have ordered the full bottle of this one instead of No. 40, based on the early development on skin so far. This is looking like a full bottle candidate for sure.
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    2) Giorgio V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    4) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    5) Jasmin Antique (Rogue)
    6)
    Anat Fritz and its reissue, called Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie

    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Thanks, drseid as I was curious about No.8 and No.59, particularly wrt the role frankincense plays in the latter’s composition. I was hoping for a more prominent presence but it seems from your description it’s more of a supportive player in the backdrop. A pity about No.40 though. Mossy (really mossy) chypres are rarer than a hen’s tooth these days.
    With respect to No. 59, the frankincense is gradually becoming more assertive as time passes. Now about an hour in, I would say the tobacco is still more prominent, but more like a 50% tobacco, 40% frankincense, 10% floral ratio at this point (it was more like 75/20/5 early-on).

    As to the Oakmoss chypre rarity nowadays... too true. Well, at least we still have Chypre-Siam from Rouge.
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    2) Giorgio V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    4) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    5) Jasmin Antique (Rogue)
    6)
    Anat Fritz and its reissue, called Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie

    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  24. #54

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Thanks for the shared impressions, everyone. I’m contemplating on a BN-guided blindbuy... Has anyone put their sniffer on ‘Mushin’ Japanese Incense or Herbs & Spices Cologne?



    ROFL!
    Plan to try Mushin tomorrow. Tried civet cat chypre tonight. Simply just "okay" for me. Also compared to chypre Siam on the other hand and its not even close, chypre Siam by a landslide (for me). Longevity also much much better for the rogue.

  25. #55

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by avo1811 View Post
    Plan to try Mushin tomorrow. Tried civet cat chypre tonight. Simply just "okay" for me. Also compared to chypre Siam on the other hand and its not even close, chypre Siam by a landslide (for me). Longevity also much much better for the rogue.

    After sitting with Mushin for a week it’s a flop for me. It’s basically a powdery feminine leaning peachy apricot perfume with not much in the way of incense or woods or really anything Japanese incense related. Let me know your thoughts. I ended up giving my full bottle to my mother in law. I thought for sure with the ingredients listed it would be alittle more true to the notes but sadly it’s misleading. Very misleading.

  26. #56

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    The notes were exactly what piqued my interest. I appreciate such an honest feedback. Thank you.
    It’s a bummer to negatively review such a passionate individuals first creations but Mushin just isn’t my style. There’s no doubt Matt has some winners but I might hold off for a year or two before revisiting his work again.

  27. #57

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkyriddle View Post
    It’s a bummer to negatively review such a passionate individuals first creations but Mushin just isn’t my style. There’s no doubt Matt has some winners but I might hold off for a year or two before revisiting his work again.
    this is what i am somewhat leaning towards so far as well, although i still have 4 more samples to try from him.

  28. #58
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    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    ordred two full bottles. I think you have to support these guys. And I enjoy wearing his scents. I think they are way better than almost anything out there today and not expensive either.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  29. #59

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by avo1811 View Post
    this is what i am somewhat leaning towards so far as well, although i still have 4 more samples to try from him.
    I tried the Birch Tar and leather and to me it smells like liquid smoke and burnt brisket. I don’t get much in the way of leather but it does smell like a photorealistic campfire with burning meat. It’s interesting but it might need more maceration because the bitch tar is overwhelming.

    I was given a sample of the Sri Lankan Vetiver and it’s also overwhelming to my nose. It’s extremely green and very powerful. It’s a great fragrance but not something I’d want to wear. It leans vintage and masculine with a classic aftershave vibe to it. I struck out though. All three fragrances were a bust for me unfortunately. There’s no doubt in my mind that in a year or two Matt will be creating some beautiful pieces of art. I love how he sticks to his guns and doesn’t back down yet is willing to learn from his mistakes. Right now it’s just not there for me.

  30. #60

    Default Re: Meleg Perfumes non-IFRA discussion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkyriddle View Post
    I tried the Birch Tar and leather and to me it smells like liquid smoke and burnt brisket. I don’t get much in the way of leather but it does smell like a photorealistic campfire with burning meat. It’s interesting but it might need more maceration because the bitch tar is overwhelming.

    I was given a sample of the Sri Lankan Vetiver and it’s also overwhelming to my nose. It’s extremely green and very powerful. It’s a great fragrance but not something I’d want to wear. It leans vintage and masculine with a classic aftershave vibe to it. I struck out though. All three fragrances were a bust for me unfortunately. There’s no doubt in my mind that in a year or two Matt will be creating some beautiful pieces of art. I love how he sticks to his guns and doesn’t back down yet is willing to learn from his mistakes. Right now it’s just not there for me.
    I never ended up trying mushin that night, ill give a couple more a go over the weekend. Still have 4 more samples to try from him i believe.




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