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  1. #1

    Default Grapefruit fragrance

    Hello!

    First off, I wanted to thank everyone on this forum as there has been so much helpful information Iíve read through in preparation to start making fragrances. Iím excited to be posting for the first time and look forward to any responses!

    I would like to capture the complex sweet and tart aroma of a grapefruit with a creed esque drydown. IĎve put together a list of oils that I think would be a good starting point and wanted to check with the community to see if Iím headed in the right direction. Iíve been researching the oils and would love any ideas of things to add and/or subtract. Any advice would be very much appreciated! List of oils below:


    Ambroxan
    Iso E Super
    Grapefruit base
    Dynascone
    Ethyl 2,4
    Cedramber
    Calone
    Ambergris essence
    Okoumal
    Vertofix
    Cedarwood atlas
    Patchouli
    Cashmeran
    Ebanol
    Sandalwood
    Amber
    Ambrocenide
    Tobacco
    Oakmoss
    Pyralone
    Vetiver
    Birch tar
    Vanilla
    Civet
    Castoreum
    Cassis base
    Hedione
    Styralyl propionate
    Pamplefleur
    Floropal
    Amyl salicylate
    Vetikol
    Stemone
    Pink grapefruit
    Amarocite
    Guavanate
    Paradisamide
    Orange flower ether
    Bergamot
    Pamplocoeur
    Kumquat
    Pamzest
    Dihydro myrcenol
    Allyl Amyl Glycolate
    Manzanate

  2. #2
    Dependent chyprefresh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    Get bergamot 104 instead of the natural, and don't forget petitgrain and neroli. I like the list, probably overkill for just beginning but it's not my money, civet, castoreum and tobacco can probably wait. Oh buy a jug of dpg and lots of pipettes marked specifically for each bottle you'll be doing a lot of dilutions into smaller vials, work in small batches (up to 15ml) of each trial to save on ingredients. And always write down your formula as you go.

  3. #3
    Basenotes Plus
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    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    Your list has most of the possible tools. Khusinil could also be helpful, but harder to obtain, but available at Pell Wall.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Junkie
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    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    I'd still add Magnolan, gardenia acetal and Lilial or some such to your already quite broad list even if you don't plan to make your blend floral.

  5. #5
    Dependent chyprefresh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    Also, dilute your Pyralone and birch tar to 1%, get Citral, diluted to around 2% this is if you're making smaller trial samples which I recommend to save money, and don't forget Linalool and or Ethyl Linalool.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    you definitely have to add some musks to your list. to begin with, try the very common ones: ethylene brassylate, habanolide and galaxolide.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    @SharpLess Thank you for the recommendations! I believe I've got all the materials to start blending (once I look into the other oils) and will make sure to write down formulas as I go. I've been writing down detailed notes when testing oils to make sure I get familiar with them.

    @pkiler Khusinil looks like it would be a great addition to the list. Appreciate the recommendation and where to find it!

    @xii Will definitely add those to the list. Thanks!

    @pavomi Those musks look like they would make great additions. Thank you for the suggestion!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by xii View Post
    I'd still add Magnolan, gardenia acetal and Lilial or some such to your already quite broad list even if you don't plan to make your blend floral.
    Seconded on Magnolan. It’s the perfect airy/watery grapefruit chemical with a nice sweet floral nuance that really makes grapefruit blends jump off the skin. I’d possibly add Blackwood (Firmenich) to help build up an underlying woody accord that will give body and tenacity to the sharp grapefruit notes.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    There are different "facets" of grapefruit fragrance. The substance in natural grapefruit that gives it its characteristic mouth-puckering rhubarb smell is nootkatone. But actually using real nootkatone in a perfume is a little bit problematic (for a variety of reasons too complicated to get into here, but we've discussed it extensively in other threads).
    That leaves a handful of aroma chemicals that are similar smelling to nootkatone, but unfortunately none of them exactly capture that nootkatone smell perfectly.

    Methyl pamplemousse
    Magnolan
    Pamplefleur (ruby red grapefruit, "dirty", animalic, more pungent, rhubarb)
    dimethyl octenone (very natural smelling and I like it, but almost half orange/tangerine smelling, and not very potent)

    further description of these aroma chemicals in this thread:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/469...t-note)-review methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

  10. #10

    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    @Burke, @parker25mv Appreciate the recommendations! The methyl pamplemousse review thread was an informative read. Would anyone be willing to look over my base formula? Not sure if it would be more productive to DM people or share what I was thinking in this thread.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by parker25mv View Post
    There are different "facets" of grapefruit fragrance. The substance in natural grapefruit that gives it its characteristic mouth-puckering rhubarb smell is nootkatone. But actually using real nootkatone in a perfume is a little bit problematic (for a variety of reasons too complicated to get into here, but we've discussed it extensively in other threads).
    That leaves a handful of aroma chemicals that are similar smelling to nootkatone, but unfortunately none of them exactly capture that nootkatone smell perfectly.

    Methyl pamplemousse
    Magnolan
    Pamplefleur (ruby red grapefruit, "dirty", animalic, more pungent, rhubarb)
    dimethyl octenone (very natural smelling and I like it, but almost half orange/tangerine smelling, and not very potent)

    further description of these aroma chemicals in this thread:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/469...t-note)-review methyl pamplemousse (grapefruit note) review

    Tried posting this a couple days ago but it didnít go through for some reason. Really appreciate the additional recommendations! Would anyone be willing to look over my base formula? Not sure if it would be more productive to post it in this thread or DM individuals.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Grapefruit fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Thomasbk86 View Post
    Tried posting this a couple days ago but it didnít go through for some reason. Really appreciate the additional recommendations! Would anyone be willing to look over my base formula? Not sure if it would be more productive to post it in this thread or DM individuals.
    Here is a first pass at the base formulation. Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated! Percentages below:

    Khusinil = 13
    ​​Galaxolide @50% dilution = 9
    ​​Ambrettolide = 8
    ​​Ambroxan = 7
    Iso E Super = 7
    Fixateur 505 = 6
    Ethylene Brassylate = 5
    ​​Timbersilk = 4
    Calone = 4
    ​​Cedramber = 3
    ​​Cedarwood = 3
    ​​Vanilla = 3
    ​​Patchouli = 3
    ​​Vertofix = 3
    ​​Dynascone = 2
    Grapefruit base = 2
    ​​Ethyl 2,4 = 2
    ​​Okoumal = 2
    ​​Ebanol = 2
    ​​Cashmeran = 2
    ​​Sandalwood = 2
    ​​Vetiver = 2
    ​​Ambergris essence = 1
    ​​Amber = 1
    ​​Tobacco = 1
    ​​Oakmoss = 1
    ​​Ambrocenide = 1
    ​​Castoreum = .50
    ​​Civet = .25
    ​​Birch tar = .25




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