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  1. #1

    Default Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Hello guys! Hope all are healthy, and smelling like champs..

    Okay, title may have been a bit much. What I’m asking is, are there any materials that you think smell like a mens shower gel? This may be blasphemy here- but if someone asked you to make a “d” bag metallic-y Axe shower gel, what AC’s are you reaching for?

    I had always heard this was ambroxan, but to me ambroxan is softer, sweeter, does not have that spiky, cold, “blue,” masculine smell in my opinion. I want to make some fresh aquatics for spring, and while i don’t necessarily want to smell like a teenager, I could see the role that these type of materials could play if dosed more maturely.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Depends on what kinds of shower gel you are talking about.

    Men's products (and essentially the whole Axe Line) quite often fall into the category fougere. You can find loads of coumarin, sometimes bicyclononalactone, sandalwood chemicals (sanjinol, bacdanol, javanol, etc), amber chemicals (the most performing like amberXtreme, amrocenide, etc), pineapples (AAG, cyclogalbonate), damascones (delta generally being the cheapest), musks, salicylates and patchouli for the dry down to stick on skin. On the top to have a citrus effect often we see citronellyl nitrile, lemonile, triplal and maybe a touch of natural citrus (usually orange) bolstered by cheaper general citrus like floralizers such as cyclacet and cyclabute. Axe, also, for some reason has a particular fondness for milky and creamy sweet notes. Try sulfurol, ethyl maltol and vanillin. The first only in traces, please.

    Ambroxan is quite expensive and generally not used in functional or consumer products -- unless for niche brands, or brands which have high budgets. You are more likely to see cheaper qualities or just other sheer amber chemicals.
    Last edited by fragrantregard; 21st March 2020 at 05:45 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by fragrantregard View Post
    citronellyl nitrile, lemonile, triplal and maybe a touch of natural citrus
    Thank you! Yes I think the main problem with my organ in general is a lack of top notes, especially citrusy ones. I have some EOs and what not but they all end up smelling not very modern. I’ll look into these!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    You might want to look at dihydromyrcenol.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by joelle View Post
    You might want to look at dihydromyrcenol.
    I can not believe I forgot this. I second this 10 times over.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    As above, Dihydromyrcenol at 10% or a little higher, Habanolide at 10%, and many others mentioned above.
    And also: This is what is wrong with Fragrances.
    Paul Kiler
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    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    As above, Dihydromyrcenol at 10% or a little higher, Habanolide at 10%, and many others mentioned above.
    And also: This is what is wrong with Fragrances.
    ^^^ Post Of The Month.

  8. #8
    Super Member Bkkorn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    A baisic Blue Men's shower gels, 2 standout ingredients come to mind. ambroxan and citrus.

    Ambroxan crystals are cheap. Dilute it down.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    I had a shower gel from adidas, I believe, which smelled primarily of cedramber. That was something.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bkkorn View Post
    Ambroxan crystals are cheap. Dilute it down.
    This is not true at all. Quite an expensive material for functional products.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    As above, Dihydromyrcenol at 10% or a little higher, Habanolide at 10%, and many others mentioned above.
    And also: This is what is wrong with Fragrances.
    I don't know if I agree with this!

    Of course, I am not really a fan of copies. Especially ones which simply take an old trend and push it to the extreme (in some direction) just to capturing market share. But DHM can do nice things in functional products. And fine fragrance. It is quite well liked by the population, as well.

    Axe, as an aside, is quite an interesting brand. They sometimes inspire fine fragrance, actually. They tend to be more 'cutting edge' than many fine fragrances which one can find in commercial shops. The thing is: they cater to a very, very specific subset of the market. Thus their fragrances reflect an extremely distinct style not widely appreciated outside of their targeted group.

    But, to create extremely performing products which are dosed at 3% (or less), in such media (i.e. assuring stability, etc -- especially with the pH restrictions if it is an antiperspirant) and to sell for such a cheap price is an extremely difficult endeavor. Much harder than creating a new new, but boring, cologne.

  12. #12
    Super Member Bkkorn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by fragrantregard View Post
    This is not true at all. Quite an expensive material for functional products.
    You can Buy a 8g container for only $15. Once it's diluted down to 10% or less (most people dilute it down to 1%)....plus you can only use up to 1-2% total in your fragrance formula

    I see this as a very cost effective ingredient.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bkkorn View Post
    You can Buy a 8g container for only $15. Once it's diluted down to 10% or less (most people dilute it down to 1%)....plus you can only use up to 1-2% total in your fragrance formula

    I see this as a very cost effective ingredient.
    When I make comments about prices, it is with more commercial references in mind. DIY prices are inflated, of course, and often in weird ways depending on which company owns the IP.

    Ambroxan, globally, is not cheap. And, to repeat, it is used very sparingly in commercial products. Cheaper alternatives are generally preferred. It isn't extremely noticeable on top, either, in such products. It is mainly for residual effects.

    Whether or not it is "cost effective" is an interesting, but different question. It can do things that other materials can't. And, even for the price, it could make sense to add if said effect would be perceived by the consumer. But, as I said, there are cheaper alternatives which do almost as good of a job. And, where price is of concern (like a brief for an Axe Shower gel), cheaper alternatives are preferable.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    As above, Dihydromyrcenol at 10% or a little higher, Habanolide at 10%, and many others mentioned above.
    And also: This is what is wrong with Fragrances.
    Well, no one has to buy it.. I am making scents only for myself so far. I don’t think anything is “wrong” if you make it for yourself and find it pleasant. I see what you mean that literal Axe and Dior Sauvage derivatives are getting tiresome. But if you notice in my OP, I just want to identify and acquire those ACs so that I may use them moderately. I don’t intend to remake tired derivatives. Buying the original would be far cheaper than this hobby! Lol

  15. #15

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Thank you for the responses gentlemen

  16. #16

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by grond View Post
    Well, no one has to buy it.. I am making scents only for myself so far. I don’t think anything is “wrong” if you make it for yourself and find it pleasant. I see what you mean that literal Axe and Dior Sauvage derivatives are getting tiresome. But if you notice in my OP, I just want to identify and acquire those ACs so that I may use them moderately. I don’t intend to remake tired derivatives. Buying the original would be far cheaper than this hobby! Lol
    It is interesting you mention Sauvage. I would reckon it is rather an expensive formulation with all the Ambroxan in there. And yet it smells very, very Axe.

    But, more than that: Axe was ahead of the curve of Sauvage on this sheer amber, powerful, diffusive bandwagon. This is what I meant in my post above. Sometimes these large, bigbox store brands actually set the trends. But for very specific sections of the market. And thus they are generally frowned or looked down upon by people here.

    Another two such brands are Victoria's Secret and Bath and Body Works. Very interesting business they do.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by fragrantregard View Post
    It is interesting you mention Sauvage. I would reckon it is rather an expensive formulation with all the Ambroxan in there. And yet it smells very, very Axe.

    But, more than that: Axe was ahead of the curve of Sauvage on this sheer amber, powerful, diffusive bandwagon. This is what I meant in my post above. Sometimes these large, bigbox store brands actually set the trends. But for very specific sections of the market. And thus they are generally frowned or looked down upon by people here.

    Another two such brands are Victoria's Secret and Bath and Body Works. Very interesting business they do.
    I admire your open mindedness! Nothing has to be an absolute in artforms such as this. Oblivious consumers have no issue taking scents at face value—is it pleasing, or not. But when we delve into the art of perfume, some people act like that “face value” approach is beneath them now..

    I understand high quality, daring composition.. I love a nice funky animalic niche every once in a while! But I try to keep a foot in both camps so to speak. For example I enjoy fine dining but I will still enjoy a Hot Pocket off a paper plate if I must.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    As above, Dihydromyrcenol at 10% or a little higher, Habanolide at 10%, and many others mentioned above.
    And also: This is what is wrong with Fragrances.
    I mean, if it's cheap and smells good enough to teens to profit from them, what's wrong with that?

    I for one don't feel like those brats deserve any better. Do you?

  19. #19

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by grond View Post
    What I’m asking is, are there any materials that you think smell like a mens shower gel?
    Some iso E super couldn't hurt.

    Quote Originally Posted by grond View Post
    does not have that spiky, cold, “blue,” masculine smell in my opinion.
    Pamplefleur is used in men's shower gel. It has a dirty mouth-puckering Ruby Red grapefruit, with rhubarb and vetiver nuances. Pretty potent, and simultaneously has both a clean and a dirty feeling.

    Floropal, in a strange sort of way, smells distantly related, in a fundamental way. It's more fresh, with much smaller grapefruit/rhubarb nuance.
    Kind of has a heady/musty effect, rubbery, and I think would work well in modern style men's sports fragrances.

  20. #20
    Super Member Finelikeanoyster's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    Galaxolide and DHM are perceptibles at many n many masculine products, cheap and expensive. These two had the 'blue' and fresh smell. Probably this omnipresence, I think, comes from drakkar noir and cool water.

    All comenteries above had a bit of true, about this cheap 'fragrances'
    Not long ago, a question about body spray in the forum, one sugestion these are gamma ionone (methyl, isomethyl ?)

    Other materials to consider
    Floralozone
    Ionones (beta specially)
    Veramoss/evernyl
    Aldehydes (the true)
    ''[...] The perfumery is in such a state so badly, that even Johnson's talc lost their essence [...]''
    Currently wearing: Tai Winds by Avon

  21. #21

    Default Re: Help me smell like a 15 year old!!!

    What about Calone?

    I can't say with much accuracy how typically Axe-ish it is, as I've not really smelled anything Axe in a long, long, long time, but it does give me teen/early 20s dude over-applying aquatic madness vibes. When I think Axe, I think 90s, and Calone is ever so very 90s and -- maybe it's just the Cool Water association -- to me it could read as fresh, cold and blue. And possibly 'spiky' in a salty, marine, metallic way.




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