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  1. #1
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
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    Default 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    These two Eaux de Cologne from Guerlain and Roger & Gallet, from the 1800s, are available on online discount sites. I’ve been a fan of the Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Imperiale, for a couple years, and this Roger & Gallet, Jean Marie Farina Eau de Cologne, is a new one.

    513B2123-8C44-4363-8C60-798E5E8748B1.jpg

    The Guerlain, from 1853, and Chanel’s Eau de Cologne, are my references for the style - what I think of as the sparkly lemonade style.

    Jean Marie Farina, from 1806, has more of a gummy resin heart. I almost find it challenging, but it develops quickly, and stays light and interesting. If I could understand the gummy resin better, I think I could embrace it more. Which ingredient is it, I wonder. It does smell classic. From memory, Dior Homme Cologne might have the same ingredient.

    Here are the notes listed in the directory:

    Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale
    Bergamot, Neroli, Verbena, Lemon, Orange
    Lavender
    Cedarwood, Tonka Bean

    Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina
    Bergamot, Lemon
    Rosemary, Neroli, Petitgrain
    Cedar, Vetiver, Musk, White Amber

    The Roger & Gallet packaging says it has been in Paris since 1862, and confirms the formula is from 1806.

  2. #2

    Oviatt's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    R&G in an underrated house in my opinion--great comparison. I, too, love Imperiale and am also really loving Eau de Coq which I got as a replacement for my last bottle of Imperiale. R&G soaps are amazing, BTW.
    Very clearly a case for corn flakes and classics

  3. #3
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I’ve been a fan of the Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Imperiale, for a couple years
    Love this one too.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    Very nice - thanks

    Amazing that these notes are still prevalent today and good to see ambroxan not listed for once!

  5. #5

    Default Re: 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    Very nice choices. I like Impériale too. It and Eau du Coq have been in my "permanent collection" since I started wearing perfume. I also like Cologne du Parfumeur. As for Impériale, no home should be without it!
    ​"It was foolish of her not to have bought a larger bottle."

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  6. #6
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    I think the addition of amber makes the R&G a bit "gummier" as you say, but also remember in those days every cologne was trying to differentiate itself from every other cologne while at the same time smelling recognizable as cologne, in the same manner all the big adjunct beers in the US tried to be "easy drinking" yet still paradoxically distinct from each other. In both scenarios it is usually a single twist on the theme which acts as that degree of separation.

    The original Farina eau de cologne that started it all is basically at the center of a spoked wheel. 4711 went into a more herbal direction, Guerlain's entry has a more lifelike citrus (realism = luxury in those days?), and the R&G "Jean-Marie Farina" is named after the grand-grand nephew of the original Giovanni Farina (the former from who Roger & Gallet bought their intial perfume business), but is otherwise unrelated. It used the amber and the musk for the base and cranks them up a bit in the "extra-vielle" variant.

    When comparing traditional eau de colognes, you're basically looking for that one thing which sets your chosen brand apart from the archetypal blend and all the rest. Stuff like the Chanel EdC you mentioned is mostly an exercise in reproducing the balance of the prototypical eau de cologne, but uses a few modern tricks for longevity. You find similar tactics employed by Penhaligon's Castile, it's like an Eau de Cologne that borders on Eau de Toilette wear time.
    oh look, I have a signature
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  7. #7
    Heaven's made of oakmoss
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    Default Re: 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    These two Eaux de Cologne from Guerlain and Roger & Gallet, from the 1800s, are available on online discount sites. I’ve been a fan of the Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Imperiale, for a couple years, and this Roger & Gallet, Jean Marie Farina Eau de Cologne, is a new one.

    513B2123-8C44-4363-8C60-798E5E8748B1.jpg

    The Guerlain, from 1853, and Chanel’s Eau de Cologne, are my references for the style - what I think of as the sparkly lemonade style.

    Jean Marie Farina, from 1806, has more of a gummy resin heart. I almost find it challenging, but it develops quickly, and stays light and interesting. If I could understand the gummy resin better, I think I could embrace it more. Which ingredient is it, I wonder. It does smell classic. From memory, Dior Homme Cologne might have the same ingredient.

    Here are the notes listed in the directory:

    Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale
    Bergamot, Neroli, Verbena, Lemon, Orange
    Lavender
    Cedarwood, Tonka Bean

    Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina
    Bergamot, Lemon
    Rosemary, Neroli, Petitgrain
    Cedar, Vetiver, Musk, White Amber

    The Roger & Gallet packaging says it has been in Paris since 1862, and confirms the formula is from 1806.
    Great thread, Bavard. Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    I think the addition of amber makes the R&G a bit "gummier" as you say, but also remember in those days every cologne was trying to differentiate itself from every other cologne while at the same time smelling recognizable as cologne, in the same manner all the big adjunct beers in the US tried to be "easy drinking" yet still paradoxically distinct from each other. In both scenarios it is usually a single twist on the theme which acts as that degree of separation.

    The original Farina eau de cologne that started it all is basically at the center of a spoked wheel. 4711 went into a more herbal direction, Guerlain's entry has a more lifelike citrus (realism = luxury in those days?), and the R&G "Jean-Marie Farina" is named after the grand-grand nephew of the original Giovanni Farina (the former from who Roger & Gallet bought their intial perfume business), but is otherwise unrelated. It used the amber and the musk for the base and cranks them up a bit in the "extra-vielle" variant.

    When comparing traditional eau de colognes, you're basically looking for that one thing which sets your chosen brand apart from the archetypal blend and all the rest. Stuff like the Chanel EdC you mentioned is mostly an exercise in reproducing the balance of the prototypical eau de cologne, but uses a few modern tricks for longevity. You find similar tactics employed by Penhaligon's Castile, it's like an Eau de Cologne that borders on Eau de Toilette wear time.
    Excellent info!
    Non IFRA Compliant & proud of it!
    Currently wearing: Quorum by Antonio Puig

  8. #8

    Default Re: 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    Thank you for the post and its accompanying picture.

    Always liked classic EDC style scents, from traditional brands and with the formulation/composition hardly or not changed since their first release.

    In fact, 4711 and other traditional EDC marked a certain early onset fascination with fragrances that eventually had significant impact on the personal fragrance hobby and led to wanting to know more about houses like R&G, Yardley, Acqua di Parma and others along these lines.

  9. #9
    Super Member Andrei Bolkonsky's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1800s Colognes: Guerlain, Roger & Gallet

    I don't like 4711. But I have one liter (33OZ) of Jean Marie Farina Cologne. I love it.
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