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  1. #1

    Default On the hunt for a new fougere

    So I currently own both vintage and modern versions of Heritage edt alongside a bottle of GIT. While I love both neither come across as a classic fougere. Heritage leans more toward an oriental to my nose (especially vintage) while GIT remains quite unique and exists very much on the periphery of fougeres.

    At the moment, I'm leaning heavily toward the Signature version of Beau de Jour. I have a sample of the PB version and like it a lot. The dry, herbal quality and lack of a powdery dry down sets it apart from other fragrances in my wardrobe. Overall, there seems to be little to no difference between the Signature version and the PB one based on various reviews. I have options to buy either one though the PB is quite a bit more expensive.

    I'm also considering Platinum Egoiste, Penhaligon Sartorial, and Invasion Barbare. Any other fougeres I should consider? Any and all feedback is appreciated. Stay safe out there and be well.

  2. #2

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Houbigant Fougère Royale and Lalique pour Homme EDP are my two go-to "classic" fougeres, so I have to give them a mention. I wholeheartedly recommend both.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by hellbentforleather View Post
    I'm also considering Invasion Barbare.
    This a very good one.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    I love Eau de Minthe.
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  5. #5
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    I would suggest these -

    Rive Gauche pour Homme
    Paco Rabanne pour Homme (vtg.)
    Invasion Barbare

    AntonPan mentioned Eau de Minthe, I like it as well.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    You might wanna test drive Amouage Bracken while you're checking things out.
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Maybe check out Zaharoff Pour Homme. It's a fantastic fougere IMO.
    Move on. It is just a chapter in the past, but don't close the book, just turn the page.

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  8. #8

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland is a great fougere. Extremely underrated. Very clean, soapy and green with some mossy notes, a lot of coumarin, some lavender and a hint of sweetness. This is a straight up green fougere.

    Have you tried Pasha by Cartier? Before you spend a bomb on niche I’d recommend giving it a try as a good barbershop aromatic fougere. It feels more traditional.

    Maybe the original Fougere Royale by Houbigant was a fougere but the re-release comes across as a green aromatic spicy.

    Sample before you buy as some fougeres might not be exactly what you are looking for.

  9. #9

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by Sheik Yerbouti View Post
    Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland is a great fougere. Extremely underrated. Very clean, soapy and green with some mossy notes, a lot of coumarin, some lavender and a hint of sweetness. This is a straight up green fougere.

    Have you tried Pasha by Cartier? Before you spend a bomb on niche I’d recommend giving it a try as a good barbershop aromatic fougere. It feels more traditional.

    Maybe the original Fougere Royale by Houbigant was a fougere but the re-release comes across as a green aromatic spicy.
    I don't understand this distinction. Fougère Royale still displays all the aspects I'd consider essential to the genre, right down to prominent lavender. I love Pasha, but I'd say Fougère Royale is much more conventional in its approach to the genre.

  10. #10

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme
    Azzaro Pour Homme

  11. #11

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    As with music there's 1001 different fragrance categorizes and sub-categorizes you could label fragrances. If you not too attached to whatever fragrantica labels something then I'd give Caron's Pour un Homme a try and Guerlain's Jicky. I hardly gets more classic fougere than those. I've never smelled Rive Gauche Pour Homme, but for something that was chic and in vogue that went for $5 to now costing $200 on eBay I'd personally skip over that. Sartorial was great imo when you could get it for $50. There's always vintage Davidoff Zino which can be had for cheap. I think your best bet would be Tom Ford's Beau de Jour as you already like it and it's great. Plus if you get the signature line version and love it, then it only gets cheaper when you have to buy another bottle in a year or so.

  12. #12

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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Not sure what you consider powdery, but some people think of the coumarin drydown of classic fougere as powdery.

    In any case, in expensive niche territory, I second some of the "nugeres", I think they preserve some of the impressions of classic fougeres well. So Histoires de parfums 1725, Invasion Barbare, and Sartorial (I'd consider them respectively more classic lavender, woodier, and soapier). Chanel Boy is quite good too, and I prefer it to Beau du jour, though I think it lacks the sparkle of my favorite fougeres.

    If you like vanilla, i think that Guerlain Jicky or Mouchoir de monsieur are worth exploring.

    cacio

  13. #13
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    I would recommend getting a sample of Rogue Perfumery Fougere L'Aube, it's some nice stuff and affordable.
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  14. #14

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    I don't understand this distinction. Fougère Royale still displays all the aspects I'd consider essential to the genre, right down to prominent lavender. I love Pasha, but I'd say Fougère Royale is much more conventional in its approach to the genre.
    Hey Brooks. This wasn’t a dig at you so don’t get me wrong. Sometimes fragrances just come across in a certain way. There are some accords that smell ‘fougerish’ and the re-release of FR doesn’t have anything like that for me. I own and love it but it doesn’t register as a fougere for me. Its a nice green sweetened aromatic nutmeg. Pasha on the other hand has a barbershop fougere vibe with a prominent cumin/caraway in the top. It doesn’t have a massive coumarin note but the sandalwood substitutes some of the sweetness back in. I would opt for Brut over FR as a fougere. Its a difference of opinion and I’m not saying you’re wrong.

  15. #15

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Great feedback everyone. Thank you. Some of the recommended classics I'd love to grab if I can find vintage bottles. I learned my lesson with Heritage and Egoiste haha.

  16. #16

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Invasion Barbare and Fougere D'argent would be my suggestions.
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    Creed Green Irish Tweed
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    Roja Dove Elysium Cologne
    MDCI Invasion Barbare
    Amouage Interlude Man
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  17. #17

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by Sheik Yerbouti View Post
    Hey Brooks. This wasn’t a dig at you so don’t get me wrong. Sometimes fragrances just come across in a certain way. There are some accords that smell ‘fougerish’ and the re-release of FR doesn’t have anything like that for me. I own and love it but it doesn’t register as a fougere for me. Its a nice green sweetened aromatic nutmeg. Pasha on the other hand has a barbershop fougere vibe with a prominent cumin/caraway in the top. It doesn’t have a massive coumarin note but the sandalwood substitutes some of the sweetness back in. I would opt for Brut over FR as a fougere. Its a difference of opinion and I’m not saying you’re wrong.
    I didn't take it personally, so no worries. (And I'm gonna go spray on some Pasha now. I love that stuff.)

    But I do think it's odd to accuse the originator of the genre (reimagined though it may be, and not for the worse from what I've heard from folks who have had the chance to know the original) as not being fougere-y enough! It has the dark, cool, green vibe I associate with the intent of a fougere: to smell like a fern.

    As much as I love Pasha, it feels a bit far from that original brief; it's warm and fruity, though the fougere heritage is definitely detectable.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Loewe Para Hombre is classic and fantastic.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by hellbentforleather View Post
    Great feedback everyone. Thank you. Some of the recommended classics I'd love to grab if I can find vintage bottles. I learned my lesson with Heritage and Egoiste haha.
    I forgot, add Gucci Nobile to your list of classic fougeres. It's another great classic.
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Loewe Para Hombre is classic and fantastic.
    Even the current version ? I got a sample 5 years ago or so and thought it was not so special. Not even that good. But I may have to give that sample another try perhaps.
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  21. #21

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by hellbentforleather View Post
    Great feedback everyone. Thank you. Some of the recommended classics I'd love to grab if I can find vintage bottles. I learned my lesson with Heritage and Egoiste haha.
    FWIW, I've not smelled it myself, but I wouldn't go crazy tracking down the original Fougère Royale (Royal Fern), since, if you can find it, it's expensive and isn't really all that close to the old-meets-new Fougère Royale of today, which deserves to stand on its own merits and should be considered less as a "classic" than as a flanker to it, much as Sartorial represents an updated interpretation of classic Penhaligon's scent profiles.

    If you want to know what Royal Fern was in its prime without going on the hunt for a precious vintage bottle, my understanding is that Penhaligon's English Fern is pretty close to the vintage Houbigant: sturdy, but not revelatory.

  22. #22

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Invasion Barbare

    and

    Roi Sans Equipage

    Are my favourite fougeres

  23. #23

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Oh, how could I forget to list Nicolaï New York Intense, which is, and this is not hyperbole, one of the greatest fragrances ever made.

  24. #24

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

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  25. #25
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Lalique Pour Homme EDP is worthy if you ignore the comparisons with Bois du Portugal.
    Its great in its own right.
    I consider Nicolai's New York Intense more of an oriental than a fougere.
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  26. #26
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    D'oh! Ya' might wanna check out Bois Du Portugal also.
    "I drank what?" -Socrates
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  27. #27
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    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by AntonPan View Post
    I love Eau de Minthe.
    ^ This. By Diptyque.
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  28. #28

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    What are you looking for?

    If you’re looking for “green” fragrances, that’s one thing.

    Something sharp or a fragrance with a strong lavender presence?

    Fougeres can walk down various olfactive paths, so knowing what you’re looking for is going to help guide a recommendation
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  29. #29

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by checkmate View Post
    What are you looking for?

    If you’re looking for “green” fragrances, that’s one thing.

    Something sharp or a fragrance with a strong lavender presence?

    Fougeres can walk down various olfactive paths, so knowing what you’re looking for is going to help guide a recommendation
    Definitely herbal, dry, and green with lavender. I think Beau de Jour remains my best bet. Platinum Egoiste was a bit weird in the mids for me. I loved the opening of Invasion Barbare but the mid and base were lackluster to me.

  30. #30

    Default Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    Quote Originally Posted by Shiny Beast View Post
    D'oh! Ya' might wanna check out Bois Du Portugal also.
    I should have included this! I actually wore it today on a run from a 2015 sample. I like it but it's not as herbaceous or dry to my nose. It might be too soapy for me.




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