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  1. #1
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    Default Vintage Guerlain

    Who here likes vintage Guerlain? Say pre-2000 releases? It’s one of the houses I’ve been sampling the most heavily over the last few years. A lovely Basenoter had sent me a bunch of samples from the 93-ml edt spray bottles, and I was sold in a big way. Here are pictures of those bottles I’ve collected and the other vintage Guerlains.

    28FFC58B-126B-4215-8CF7-951C02F17440.jpg
    Samsara, Vol de Nuit, Shalimar, Chamade, Sous le Vent

    D1A918D1-043B-4B22-B5EC-228C6B516035.jpg
    Vol de Nuit and Shalimar came with baskets

    656A809C-CEF7-43B9-80A7-130C9AF5D1F9.jpg
    Vol de Nuit and Shalimar

    8627BD6D-1B51-4834-888C-EA5A6A3B2947.jpg
    L'Heure Bleue parfum, Mitsouko parfum, Mitsouko edt

    704466C6-6346-4360-8ABC-5A231C9BB05E.jpg
    Mouchoir de Monsieur, Eau de Cologne Imperiale - the bee bottle collection

    B3015BB7-6FF1-46EC-A9B5-AB2C786F20C2.jpg
    Habit Rouge edc, Habit Rouge edt, Derby edt, Heritage edt

    Feel free to post pictures and to discuss all things vintage Guerlain.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Bavard, I am and I don't talk much about it, as the heavier, leather, pine, oakmoss monsters slightly tilt me in their favor.

    However, you can make a top 25 just with Guerlain.

    I have almost all the bottles your pictures show except 4th picture, left side - looks like a metal or porcelain?

    Few I don't see but are great works are Philtre d'Amour, Samsara. Unsure though as to when Philtre was released. It's an amazingly delicate Vetiver.

    As for original Vetiver - the EDC you have on the last picture is the best. As well, Habit Rouge has a few iterations, think the late 70-early 80 version is supposed to have oud.

    One I don't have and searched a lot for is Guet Apens.

    Also, you have the meteorite collection of which I have the Samsara. Don't recall the volume, but it might be pure parfum version.

    Few basenoters have incredible Guerlain knowledge, think monsieurguerlain (runs or ran a wonderful website) / Salim / hedonist222 / mr.reasonable and such...And as always Andre Moreau.

    A great thread to start a Sunday...
    Currently wearing: Cedrat Boise by Mancera

  3. #3
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Also Mouchoir de Monsieur - can't miss that one...
    Currently wearing: Cedrat Boise by Mancera

  4. #4
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Noggs will be another I'll touch base for Guerlain fragrances. He's got an almost Hednic sized collection.
    Currently wearing: Cedrat Boise by Mancera

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Happy Saturday, Arun! I've never picked up a bottle of Guerlain Vetiver. I do think I recall seeing it in that Habit Rouge edc-style bottle.

    I have a Samsara edt in there. I've been bonding with that one. I had had an edp I didn't like as much. The porcelain is L'Heure Bleue, a parfum spray. I do not have any L'Heure Bleue edt, which is a concern.

    I have a some Mouchoir de Monsieur in the bee bottle collection.

    It would be amazing to have those legendary Basenoters waxing lyrical on vintage Guerlain.

    Philtre d'Amour is one I have not sampled, and it hasn't been on my radar.

    Which Guerlains have you been wearing the most? It has been Habit Rouge edc for me.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    hello
    can anybody say the difference between all these bottles? I understand cap-aging ,
    but the dots, I'm not sure. I found that red dot is originally Shalimar and navy blue is later formulation, but here have one with a yellow-gold dot?
    does anyone try these?

    s-l1600 (8).jpg
    s-l500.jpg
    s-l1600 (6).jpg

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Hello, tarac! Those are lovely Shalimar edcs. I think older can be better because of the richness of ingredients, but newer can be better for having preserved top notes - either way you win.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Dear Bavard-

    I enjoy wearing every single vintage Guerlain that I have, including...

    Chant d’Aromes
    Chamade
    Jardins de Bagatelle
    Mahora
    Mitsouko
    L’Heure Bleue
    Nahema
    Parure
    Samsara
    Shalimar
    Vol de Nuit

    I think it is important to find good vintage versions since the recent EDT’s of some of these are significantly changed. It’s fun to compare vintage extrait, EDT, and EDC versions. The deep vintage Guerlain EDC’s are exceptionally good.

    I’ve sampled some of the masculines thanks to many generous Basenoters, including yourself, but I don’t sport them myself.

    On my To Do List is finding a bottle of vintage Jicky that I like. I SHOULD like Jicky, but the recent versions I’ve tried did not appeal.
    Last edited by grayspoole; 4th April 2020 at 09:54 PM.

  9. #9
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Happy Saturday, Arun! I've never picked up a bottle of Guerlain Vetiver. I do think I recall seeing it in that Habit Rouge edc-style bottle.

    I have a Samsara edt in there. I've been bonding with that one. I had had an edp I didn't like as much. The porcelain is L'Heure Bleue, a parfum spray. I do not have any L'Heure Bleue edt, which is a concern.

    I have a some Mouchoir de Monsieur in the bee bottle collection.

    It would be amazing to have those legendary Basenoters waxing lyrical on vintage Guerlain.

    Philtre d'Amour is one I have not sampled, and it hasn't been on my radar.

    Which Guerlains have you been wearing the most? It has been Habit Rouge edc for me.
    Most used will definitely be Derby / Jicky extrait / Samsara's many variations. Edit - the many Eau's also get good usage along with Mouchoir...

    PdT's of few Guerlain's are great too. Almost to the point of EDC, PdT and pure parfum / extrait with edt being good only for a handful.

    I noticed the Samsara on the first pic after I replied. Pure parfum is the best version.
    Currently wearing: Cedrat Boise by Mancera

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    It’s fun to compare vintage extrait, EDT, and EDC versions. The deep vintage Guerlain EDC’s are exceptionally good.
    Having multiple concentrations is a treat. That would just be Mitsouko for me, edt and parfum. I have sampled that one in edc, and it was a beauty. An edc or two would be tempting.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    I am burdened with a mountain of Guerlain shame. I feel like my inability to fall in love with any of their classics signifies some kind of personality defect. Or maybe a corrupt gene.

    I do own a few, but only because it seemed like I was supposed to: Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleu, Jicky, Vol de Nuit, Habit Rouge. And while I don't hate them, the only one I've ever been able to regularly wear with pleasure is Guerlain Vetiver.

    Do you suppose there's some kind of therapy available for the unfortunate souls who suffer from this affliction?

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I am burdened with a mountain of Guerlain shame. I feel like my inability to fall in love with any of their classics signifies some kind of personality defect. Or maybe a corrupt gene.

    I do own a few, but only because it seemed like I was supposed to: Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleu, Jicky, Vol de Nuit, Habit Rouge. And while I don't hate them, the only one I've ever been able to regularly wear with pleasure is Guerlain Vetiver.

    Do you suppose there's some kind of therapy available for the unfortunate souls who suffer from this affliction?
    My significant other, Jules, has the same issue. I'm sort of resigned to it being a lost cause.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Pre-2000's? I've got bottles of:

    Habit Rouge EdC splash
    Habit Rouge EdC spray
    Habit Rouge EdT spray

    I've got samples of:

    Jicky Extrait
    Shalimar Extrait
    Mitsouko Extrait
    Derby

    And, as an aside, my bottle of Mouchoir de Monsieur looks exactly like the one you've got pictured, but I got mine from the Guerlain boutique in Toronto just a year or two ago.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by aero58 View Post
    Pre-2000's? I've got bottles of:

    Habit Rouge EdC splash
    Habit Rouge EdC spray
    Habit Rouge EdT spray

    I've got samples of:

    Jicky Extrait
    Shalimar Extrait
    Mitsouko Extrait
    Derby

    And, as an aside, my bottle of Mouchoir de Monsieur looks exactly like the one you've got pictured, but I got mine from the Guerlain boutique in Toronto just a year or two ago.
    That's from 1904, I seem to recall, a pre-2000 release to be sure. I'm not sure when mine is from. I bought my Eau de Cologne Imperiale in a shop a couple years ago, so a current version of an 1800s fragrance, but in the vintage style, unlike, say L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme or Mon Guerlain.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    That's from 1904, I seem to recall, a pre-2000 release to be sure. I'm not sure when mine is from. I bought my Eau de Cologne Imperiale in a shop a couple years ago, so a current version of an 1800s fragrance, but in the vintage style, unlike, say L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme or Mon Guerlain.
    Ah so - I misunderstood. I thought you meant actual pre-2000 release (vintage) bottles on hand. In that case, I'll have to add the following bottles on hand:

    Heritage EdT
    Jicky EdP
    Shalimar EdP
    Eau du Coq
    Derby
    Mitsouko EdP

    And I forgot that I have a vintage bottle of Shalimar EdC from the early '80's.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I am burdened with a mountain of Guerlain shame. I feel like my inability to fall in love with any of their classics signifies some kind of personality defect. Or maybe a corrupt gene.

    I do own a few, but only because it seemed like I was supposed to: Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleu, Jicky, Vol de Nuit, Habit Rouge. And while I don't hate them, the only one I've ever been able to regularly wear with pleasure is Guerlain Vetiver.

    Do you suppose there's some kind of therapy available for the unfortunate souls who suffer from this affliction?
    There's a certain stereotypical Frenchness about classic Guerlain. It's not stuffy or stodgy, exactly, but there's still a kind of full-bodied formality and richness about it.

    I'm not always in the mood for it, much as I'm not always in the mood for French cuisine, though the artistry is undeniable. On the whole, I'm much more drawn to Italian-style perfumery, which is a bit more carefree and aromatic... much like their cuisine. I have a theory that regional perfumery styles and cuisine styles are closely related to one another. But I also suspect, without real evidence, that it's that "full-bodied" style that allows Guerlain to age supremely well.

    Vetiver is the one Guerlain that stands out as the anytime/anywhere option. I moved my bottle on to another owner but now wish I hadn't.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by aero58 View Post
    Pre-2000's? I've got bottles of:

    Habit Rouge EdC splash
    Habit Rouge EdC spray
    Habit Rouge EdT spray

    I've got samples of:

    Jicky Extrait
    Shalimar Extrait
    Mitsouko Extrait
    Derby

    And, as an aside, my bottle of Mouchoir de Monsieur looks exactly like the one you've got pictured, but I got mine from the Guerlain boutique in Toronto just a year or two ago.
    Quote Originally Posted by aero58 View Post
    Ah so - I misunderstood. I thought you meant actual pre-2000 release (vintage) bottles on hand. In that case, I'll have to add the following bottles on hand:

    Heritage EdT
    Jicky EdP
    Shalimar EdP
    Eau du Coq
    Derby
    Mitsouko EdP

    And I forgot that I have a vintage bottle of Shalimar EdC from the early '80's.
    That is a righteous collection of classic Guerlain fragrances, Aero. Nice collecting! How do you like those Mitsoukos? Are they clearly the same fragrance?

  18. #18

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Thank you for sharing the pictures with us and for starting this highly informative thread.

    Personally owning just vintage Heritage EDT among full bottles and among samples, vintage Derby among pre 2000s Guerlains and must admit being fascinated by both, enjoying to rediscover their fascinating array of notes during each wear.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Well, you know me, Bavard - I'm a Guerlain admirer through-and-through. Brooks Otterlake refers to Guerlain's "full bodied richness and formality," and that's a lovely way of putting it. Guerlains are stately: even at their wildest (in my collection, that would probably be Mahora) and most surprsing (Mitsouko, Jicky), they maintain a seamlessly integrated structure and elegance that I find almost second to none.

    For me, vintage is the only way to go with Guerlain, in any concentration. If I had to pick a favorite, it would be L'Heure Bleue extrait. I could possibly live without Shalimar (though when I'm in the mood for it, nothing else will do), but never Mitsouko, Samsara, Nahema or Chamade. The late-80s parfum de toilette concentration allowed one to experience the fullness of extrait at a very affordable price, and their EDTs and EDCs were never thin or frail. Guerlain has a permanent place in my heart.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    I only own 3x Heritage as pre-2000



    and 100ml + 50ml of:



    (Maybe mine is not even pre-2000?! as this is an internet pic but same bottle I own; golden cap)

    Also own a 125ml Vetiver (frosted ribbed bottle but that one is not pre-2000)
    My Top '11':

    - Paco Rabanne: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Antaeus (vtg)
    - Azzaro: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Armani: AdG Profumo
    - Jacques Bogart: Furyo
    - Guerlain: Héritage (vtg)
    - Thierry Mugler: A*men
    - SA: Al Basel
    - D&G: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - YSL: Kouros (vtg)
    - VC&A: Pour Homme

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Who here likes vintage Guerlain?



    704466C6-6346-4360-8ABC-5A231C9BB05E.jpg
    Mouchoir de Monsieur, Eau de Cologne Imperiale - the bee bottle collection

    B3015BB7-6FF1-46EC-A9B5-AB2C786F20C2.jpg
    Habit Rouge edc, Habit Rouge edt, Derby edt, Heritage edt
    Own and love these.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  22. #22

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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Bavard--

    Amazing collection. I love the older Guerlains and regularly wear vintage Heritage, Coriolan and Habit Rouge EdC. An older, montre bottle of Shalimar EdC smells better to me than the current extrait--it was just that good! Love your Derby Eagle Bottle.
    Very clearly a case for corn flakes and classics
    Currently wearing: Halston 1-12 by Halston

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    It took her a minute, but Mrs. S. has fallen hard for vintage Mitsouko, and she’s also having quite the fling with L’Heure Bleue. She’s now feeling the urge to explore (or, in some cases, rediscover) other vintage Guerlains.

    As for me, I love Derby, Vetiver, and Coriolan. I rather famously despise Habit Rouge, and haven’t yet experienced the rest. I don’t think I’m a LIDGE kinda guy, but maybe I shouldn’t prejudge.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I rather famously despise Habit Rouge
    I had no idea! But I don't care for it, either.

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I don’t think I’m a LIDGE kinda guy, but maybe I shouldn’t prejudge.
    Ignore LIDGE and try LIDG, the initial EDT, instead.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    I currently have Heritage, Derby, Imperiale Extra Dry, Jicky and Mitsouko in my collection.
    Currently wearing: Jasmine by Floris

  26. #26
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    Well, you know me, Bavard - I'm a Guerlain admirer through-and-through. Brooks Otterlake refers to Guerlain's "full bodied richness and formality," and that's a lovely way of putting it. Guerlains are stately: even at their wildest (in my collection, that would probably be Mahora) and most surprsing (Mitsouko, Jicky), they maintain a seamlessly integrated structure and elegance that I find almost second to none.

    For me, vintage is the only way to go with Guerlain, in any concentration. If I had to pick a favorite, it would be L'Heure Bleue extrait. I could possibly live without Shalimar (though when I'm in the mood for it, nothing else will do), but never Mitsouko, Samsara, Nahema or Chamade. The late-80s parfum de toilette concentration allowed one to experience the fullness of extrait at a very affordable price, and their EDTs and EDCs were never thin or frail. Guerlain has a permanent place in my heart.
    Sorry I missed mentioning our wonderful noses on the ladies side Agree on the PdT's - they were phenomenal!
    Currently wearing: Cedrat Boise by Mancera

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    That is quite a collection, Bavard.
    The only Guerlain EDTs I have are Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Chamade. My bottles are the smaller ribbed glass design, 30ml and 50ml. Initially, I didn't care for Shalimar, and it reminded me of scented toilet paper. I finally came around to it after trying the PDT from a mostly empty bottle that I bought on a whim.

    The "basket" cases for the 93ml bottles are amazing. Seems like a lot of work went into them, and I would imagine they were expensive when new. I have the "baby basket", which is to say, the refillable 8ml parfum spray. It's the first version (©1982), which does sort of resemble a basket.

    These first three photos were among the first I shot with my then new camera (Sony RX100). I was still figuring things out, and shooting indoors against a satin backdrop. I learned there is an art to arranging the satin folds just so so as to produce a whipped cream-like effect. But those satin shots are a pain to set up, and I rarely bother anymore.














    For whatever reason, though, Guerlain fragrances don't seem to be a great fit for me. I appreciate the ones I have while I'm wearing them, and then forget about them for long stretches. My bottle of Vetiver EDC gets some use on occasion, but those occasions are ones for which I want to smell nice without drawing undue attention to myself. Last time I wore it was at a wake.

    It's probably time I gave the classics another chance. Vol de Nuit and Mitsouko, in particular. None of the Guerlains I've smelled would get anything close to a bad review from me. At the same time, none have made it onto my list of can't-live-withouts.
    Currently wearing: Inouï by Shiseido

  28. #28

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by roro View Post
    At the same time, none have made it onto my list of can't-live-withouts.
    Héritage was on mine for quite a while. And then Nicolaï New York Intense came along.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I don’t think I’m a LIDGE kinda guy, but maybe I shouldn’t prejudge.
    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Ignore LIDGE and try LIDG, the initial EDT, instead.
    I was thinking either/or, but of course I should try both, and Heritage, too. I've been dismissive of Guerlinade on the basis of Habit Rouge, but it seems that was premature.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Héritage was on mine for quite a while. And then Nicolaï New York Intense came along.
    I had a mid-'90s bottle of Héritage EDT, and it just wasn't me. I do regret not keeping a few ml for reference when I sold the bottle, because I have only a vague memory of the scent. For what it's worth, the patchouli was not the problem.
    Currently wearing: Inouï by Shiseido




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