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  1. #1
    Super Member SubUmbra's Avatar
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    Post Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    What is this? Essentially:

    - we choose a common aromachemical or natural material
    - participants create a blend using that material (whether or not it is the star of the blend is up to you, but it must include the material)
    - the idea is not to make a very large batch and to minimize time spent blending where possible -- the important thing is to experience the material and react to it by trying to blend it with other things in a pleasing way
    - participants share on this thread the formula they create & what they learned in the process (observations about materials, their interactions, inspirations, things we're happy/not happy with, anything else of note)
    - we're setting this to debut a new material every month to keep the ball rolling, but if you see this specific thread after the month is over and wish to participate, please feel welcome, as we will view each thread as "ongoing."

    This will be great for newbies who are trying to understand their materials and how others use them; but critically, it'll also act as a fun challenge for more experienced perfumers. Photographers do the same thing with photography workshops... I don't see why the same concept wouldn't be valuable for perfumers.

    And the material of the month is: Cashmeran, a common musk material with spicy, floral, fruity, rich, musty, powdery, and velvet nuances. Also used with Kephalis in oud accords.

    I hope this is a fun challenge and that we can all learn something in the process. Again, please feel free to submit your work to this thread any time!

    Happy perfuming!

  2. #2
    Super Member Bkkorn's Avatar
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    Sadly, I don't yet have any cashmeran. It's on my next list of future purchases though!
    ...bathing in perfumes...

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    Life's been weird recently. With no sense of urgency I've been doing lots of meditative work. While planting corn in our garden I realised I liked whiffs of mulch odour from our spice area freshly tidied up. Soon after I had this idea of mulched Opium; fruity musty sweet mellis ambrein. It somehow made sense to me at that point. Anyways, having ruined my Opium rendition with some really scary materials like 2 - ethyl fenchol, Verdol and geosmin, I dropped the project. Should've used Firmenich's Oud Maleki. A few days later I was grinding cardamom, cumin, coriander and lovage in a mortar; again peacefully meditative work. And again I thought of turning this experience into a perfume. There is this interesting idea of using cedar and lavender in a leather fragrance suggested by topic. Once I started thinking about a perfume utilising Cashmeran I had a complete composition ready: fruity mulched oud accord with ionones and Atlantic cedar; a nod towards Oud Maleki base by Firmenich, with spices and lavender. I thought I'd dedicate the blend to joys of slow life so I tried to hint upon an old fashioned cocktail.

    Symroxane 770
    Cedar Atlas 713
    Vertofix Cœur 657
    Orris butter Charabot 566
    Benzyl propionate 566
    Gurjun EO 453
    Mahagonate 430
    Kephalis 408
    beta - Dihydroionone 408
    Iso Mohanol 396
    Orange 7 - fold 374
    alpha - Isomethyl ionone 351
    Veramoss 340
    Cardamom CO2 340
    Star anise middle fraction 328
    beta - Carophyllene 306
    Sylvamber 306
    Coriander CO2 272
    Vanillin 238
    Musk ketone 226
    Terranol 215
    Helvetolide 181
    Patchouly MD Indonesia 170
    Styrax 159
    Copaiba 136
    Jatamansi 113
    Lavandin Super 91
    DHM 79
    Cypriol 68
    Ambermax 59
    L - carvone 57
    Lime terpenes 45
    Eugenol 45
    Exaltolide 35
    Cashmeran 28
    Thyme red Spain 23
    Guaiac heart 18
    Ethyl propionate 16
    IBQ 3
    Creosol 3
    Ambrarome absolu 2
    Raspberry ketone 2
    HCR 2
    m - Cresol 1
    Ethyl maltol 0,8
    Birch tar 0,2
    Total 10000
    Initially there was more Cashmeran in the oud accord but it kept messing up with my idea for the dry down and needed to be reduced It's a powerful component though and even at 0,3% it makes quite a difference.

  4. #4
    Super Member SubUmbra's Avatar
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    A delicious-looking creation, xii. I’m definitely in need of a little harmless self-medication-through-meditative-acts, too.
    What role would you describe cashmeran has in this creation, and what about it initially interfered in the desired drydown?

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    Cashmeran is essentially telling me that much to learn I have. It appears I can introduce my earthy wet bitter oud accord to middle notes where a bunch of components I used start to fade. Cashmeran outlives them and becomes sad. So I reduced it to a fraction and steared the blend towards bitter iris; clearly seen in huge amount of synthetic orris butter I used. I might end up adding some Vetival, Ambrox and more amber materials but first I'd like to take a good sniff at M7 by YSL.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    Alright, I guess I'll give this a shot. It's my first time posting any formula of mine, but don't be gentle.
    It's very simple and has not been revised, as I improvised it about an hour ago.

    The original idea was to mix some Cashmeran and some Santaliff, and then build something up around that, and I think that part worked out somewhat alright.
    To me, Cashmeran always seems to get overpowered very easily, and I don't think it protrudes very much. I see it as more of a textural component than anything, so far at least.

    It turned out to be more of a twist on a Grojsman Accord than I had planned, but that's alright. I'll post the same formula twice; first with the absolute weight, and then in percentages, as the formula doesn't add up to a nice number.


    Cashmeran 50% in IPM 0.55
    Santaliff 0.10
    Iso E Super 0.20
    Hedione 0.20
    Galaxolide 50% in IPM 0.20
    Benzyl Salicylate 0.11
    Alpha Methyl Ionone Iso Super 0.10
    Nectarate 50% in IPM 0.06
    TOTAL 1.52

    Cashmeran 50% in IPM 36.18%
    Santaliff 6.58%
    Iso E Super 13.16%
    Hedione 13.16%
    Galaxolide 50% in IPM 13.16%
    Benzyl Salicylate 7.24%
    Alpha Methyl Ionone Iso Super 6.58%
    Nectarate 50% in IPM 3.95%
    TOTAL 100%

    Over the course of writing this, it's had a little time to dry down on my hand, and the Cashmeran does indeed come out a bit more now. Also, I think it's the Methyl Ionone dominating a bit as well. However I do think the amount of nectarate is quite good. If anything I would probably take it down just a tad. I think I would like to increase the Santaliff quite a bit though. Maybe double it.
    Any critique is welcome!

    Happy blending, people!

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    Quote Originally Posted by andreasmg13 View Post
    Alright, Any critique is welcome!
    I guess my comment/critique is that with only eight ingredients, with no naturals for rounding, that everything is gonna stick out.
    Paul Kiler
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    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    Quote Originally Posted by xii View Post
    Cashmeran is essentially telling me that much to learn I have. It appears I can introduce my earthy wet bitter oud accord to middle notes where a bunch of components I used start to fade. Cashmeran outlives them and becomes sad. So I reduced it to a fraction and steared the blend towards bitter iris; clearly seen in huge amount of synthetic orris butter I used. I might end up adding some Vetival, Ambrox and more amber materials but first I'd like to take a good sniff at M7 by YSL.
    I don't think M7 contains too much cashmeran. But it may contain more than you have already used. I would guess less than 1%, just by sniff. It doesn't smell too strongly.

    Out of curiosity, where did you purchase the pure Ambermax? I wasn't aware it could be had not at 10% or 50% dilution.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    I thought of M7 as a source of inspiration rather. Last time I smelled it must've been about a decade ago and all I remember is the opening. I'd like to know how it develops.

    As for Ambermax I used it at 10%. I store the formulas with dilutions of materials but I wrote a little script that spits out a simplified formula for the forum with tags but without the dilutions; whether done by me or not.

  10. #10
    Super Member nicotiro's Avatar
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    im totally getting cashmeran on my next order too!!

    xii your formulas are so long and complicated and im just in awe of how you know when certain notes fade and how much to amp up other notes. its super great to read and makes me hopeful at some point before i die i will have learned a sense of this as well.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I guess my comment/critique is that with only eight ingredients, with no naturals for rounding, that everything is gonna stick out.
    Now that you say it, it seems sorta selfevident. Hadn't thought about it though, so thanks!

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    I honestly wish my formulas were shorter.
    By the way, to any formula one can associate a pair: most abundant ingredient and the number of ingredients. Just for fun. Let's call it the Le Labo index. I like playing with it; I blended a total of three versions of this Cashmeran project. The Le Labo indices of them are:

    Vertofix Cœur 54
    Symroxane 46
    Gurjun 49

    Funny thing is the blends are quite similar. Ever since I started faceting my blends their formulas have gotten longer with no single ingredient sticking out

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    I made an experiment with an accord where I made two versions. One with and one without Cashmeran, just to see if i could find any difference (spoiler: I could), and if so, what it would be.

    It turned out to be a somewhat different result than what I had expected, though.

    Here are the two formulas:

    Cedarwood Texas EXTRA EO 47.08%
    Cedarwood Atlas EO 15.69%
    Iso E Super 10.46%
    Clearwood 10.46%
    Cedarwood Virginia EO 8.37%
    Helional 3.14%
    Cashmeran 3.14%
    Oakmoss Abs 0.63%
    Vetiveryl Acetate 0.53%
    Tobacco Abs Virginia 0.47%
    Cis-3-Hexenol 0.03%
    TOTAL 100.0%

    In this second formula I got imprecise with my dropper and ended up changing the ratio of Cedar T. and Cedar V. from 90:16 to 89:17.

    Cedarwood Texas EXTRA EO 48.07%%
    Cedarwood Atlas EO 16.20%%
    Iso E Super 10.80%
    Clearwood 10.80%
    Cedarwood Virginia EO 9.18%
    Helional 3.24%
    Oakmoss Abs 0.65%
    Vetiveryl Acetate 0.54%
    Tobacco Abs Virginia 0.49%
    Cis-3-Hexenol 0.03%
    Cashmeran 0.00%
    TOTAL 100%

    I found that the formula without Cashmeran had a bit more attack, and smelled more of vetiver. It reminds me of a log with thick, uneven, rugged bark. I might just be able to pick up on the tobacco if I really dig for it, but it might very well just be imagination. It has a bit of an airy menthol-vibe as well (any idea where the menthol might be coming from?).

    The one with Cashmeran, however, seems a bit softer and a lot more rounded. It almost has a fruitiness to it. It's a lot fresher, and you can imagine a lot more of a forest as opposed to just a log.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Smell Sketches - April 2020 - Cashmeran

    Have you tried to add nutmeg to your blend? Easily at 10% or more. Perhaps you'd like it. However, I suspect Cashmeran doesn't blend very well with eugenol. Not if you want to stay in woody landscapes anyway. So it would be interesting to hear your opinion...




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