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  1. #61
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    I also think there should be a separation in suggestion between what contains tons of oakmoss as fixative, and what aims to smell like oakmoss. For example, Chanel pM or GFF fM both endeavor to have oakmoss as the primary riff after the top and heart, so I classify them as actual oakmoss bombs fragrance-wise, while stuff like Quorum or Ho Hang Club may have tons of it in the mix, but do not read as "oakmoss bomb" to my nose because they focus on leather/tobacco and floral/musk respectively .
    ZealotCrusader, I think your points here are well taken.

    I am not familiar with many of the masculine scents being discussed in this thread, and I always have trouble processing the phrase “oakmoss bomb” because nothing in the smell of vintage oakmoss-forward perfumes (or actual oakmoss absolute) is loud, pungent, or aggressive to me.

    The overall effects of Azuree, Cabochard, and Ho Hang Club, which I do know well and have been mentioned here, have very little to do with oakmoss in my opinion, Azuree and Cabochard feature isobutyl quinoline in all of its glory, while I suspect that there is a healthy dollop of woody-ambery ambroxan in the base of Ho Hang Club. Unlike oakmoss, these ingredients do seem to land with considerable force

  2. #62
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Although not vintage, I believe Rogue Mousse Illuminee should be considered as it carries vintage/Non-IFRA qualities and it's available at a affordable price. Chypye-Siam is another good option although it doesn't carry a punch unlike Mousse Illuminee.
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  3. #63
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    I also think there should be a separation in suggestion between what contains tons of oakmoss as fixative, and what aims to smell like oakmoss. For example, Chanel pM or GFF fM both endeavor to have oakmoss as the primary riff after the top and heart, so I classify them as actual oakmoss bombs fragrance-wise, while stuff like Quorum or Ho Hang Club may have tons of it in the mix, but do not read as "oakmoss bomb" to my nose because they focus on leather/tobacco and floral/musk respectively .
    ^ This
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  4. #64
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I am not familiar with many of the masculine scents being discussed in this thread, and I always have trouble processing the phrase “oakmoss bomb” because nothing in the smell of vintage oakmoss-forward perfumes (or actual oakmoss absolute) is loud, pungent, or aggressive to me.

    The overall effects of Azuree, Cabochard, and Ho Hang Club, which I do know well and have been mentioned here, have very little to do with oakmoss in my opinion, Azuree and Cabochard feature isobutyl quinoline in all of its glory, while I suspect that there is a healthy dollop of woody-ambery ambroxan in the base of Ho Hang Club. Unlike oakmoss, these ingredients do seem to land with considerable force
    I tend to agree, but I'm on the search for how some of these fragrances come across as mossy to others.

  5. #65
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    With the very existence of oak moss bombs in question, the United States Postal Service served up a double today of Basenoter recommendations to put it to the test:

    EF4FBB23-9C17-47CC-BB62-5EA43F2FE5D3.jpg

    Bijan Men ($40 for 75 ml) and Halston Z-14 ($23 for 30 ml)

    These were put over the top through being on budget - I suppose my thought was $50 or less - and also for being fragrances I had seen recommended previously. The boxes both have short ingredient lists, which means vintage to me.

  6. #66

    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    With the very existence of oak moss bombs in question, the United States Postal Service served up a double today of Basenoter recommendations to put it to the test:....
    Excellent!....I just received a bottle of Bijan today as well.
    Currently wearing: Borsalino by Borsalino

  7. #67
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by aero58 View Post
    Excellent!....I just received a bottle of Bijan today as well.
    I'm happy with Bijan Men. It is going to fit into my wardrobe nicely. This is a Versace L'Homme smell-alike and I love it for it.

    I'm thrilled to have another take on this theme.

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Borsalino by Borsalino...cheap and excellent oak moss vintage. Very underrated. Somewhat short-lived but I love that you can spray a ton of it and wear it at pretty much any occasion....something you can't say for all vintage oak moss bombs.
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  9. #69
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm happy with Bijan Men. It is going to fit into my wardrobe nicely. This is a Versace L'Homme smell-alike and I love it for it.

    I'm thrilled to have another take on this theme.
    It predates L'Homme though by 3 years.
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  10. #70
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    With the very existence of oak moss bombs in question, the United States Postal Service served up a double today of Basenoter recommendations to put it to the test:

    EF4FBB23-9C17-47CC-BB62-5EA43F2FE5D3.jpg

    Bijan Men ($40 for 75 ml) and Halston Z-14 ($23 for 30 ml)

    These were put over the top through being on budget - I suppose my thought was $50 or less - and also for being fragrances I had seen recommended previously. The boxes both have short ingredient lists, which means vintage to me.
    Two excellent pickups. I personally never thought of Z-14 as an “oakmoss bomb,” but it smells great regardless and represents a fabulous value.
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Jasmin Antique (Rogue Perfumery)
    3) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    3) Giorgio V.I.P. Special Reserve (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie

    5) Dia pour Homme vintage edt (Amouage)

    6)
    Anat Fritz and its reissue, called Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie

    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  11. #71
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    It predates L'Homme though by 3 years.
    That's my understanding as well. I've seen 1981 as the release year for Bijan Men and 1984 as the release year for Versace L'Homme. What a couple beauties. There are enough other notes making waves that I don't think of oak moss, necessarily, right away - I can readily accept that it's me and not the lack of oak moss. (Update: After wearing this for a couple days, I am now smelling it as an oak-moss driven fragrance!)

    Bijan Men seems even more complex. It might be 75% like Versace L'Homme and 25% sort of like Patou Pour Homme - there was something spicy-hot in my first sprays.

    For people who only like rare stuff, I can't see Versace L'Homme and/or Bijan Men working, but I like them as much as anything else. From early testing, Versace L'Homme lasts longer.
    Last edited by Bavard; 27th May 2020 at 05:35 PM.

  12. #72
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by rynegne View Post
    Borsalino by Borsalino...cheap and excellent oak moss vintage. Very underrated. Somewhat short-lived but I love that you can spray a ton of it and wear it at pretty much any occasion....something you can't say for all vintage oak moss bombs.
    Anything you'd compare this to? I'm on something of a Fougere binge right now...

  13. #73
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    I'm enjoying this thread, especially investigating whether "oakmoss bomb" is an oxymoron.

    I'm picking up some Gianfranco Ferre for Man (GFF) in Bijan Men (aka Bijan for Men), and I'm experiencing it as an oakmoss-dominant fragrance. For me, and this flies in the face of some of the reviews, Bijan Men is not especially powerful or long lasting. It is super delish, though.

  14. #74
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm enjoying this thread, especially investigating whether "oakmoss bomb" is an oxymoron.

    I'm picking up some Gianfranco Ferre for Man (GFF) in Bijan Men (aka Bijan for Men), and I'm experiencing it as an oakmoss-dominant fragrance. For me, and this flies in the face of some of the reviews, Bijan Men is not especially powerful or long lasting. It is super delish, though.
    I wonder if olfactory fatigue is coming into play...? Bijan for Men has got to be one of only a handful of perfumes I have worn that represent the strongest of the strongest in strength... For reference, the others (all in original formulas and in no particular order):

    Poison
    Portrait of a Lady
    Giorgio for Men
    Bogart pour Homme


    I think Bijan for Men may be the strongest of all of them in truth (Poison may be equally strong)... I have a splash bottle, and a couple small dabs of it and people can smell the perfume in other rooms! It is *the* powerhouse of powerhouses, IMO, and a personal favorite that sadly I don’t get a lot of opportunities to wear due to its relative strength. Right now in lockdown that isn’t an issue, but I think if I ever wore it to the office I would be sent home (and this is coming from someone who wears Giorgio for Men to the office regularly). ;-)

    Glad you like it though!
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Jasmin Antique (Rogue Perfumery)
    3) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    3) Giorgio V.I.P. Special Reserve (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie

    5) Dia pour Homme vintage edt (Amouage)

    6)
    Anat Fritz and its reissue, called Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie

    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  15. #75
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    That's my understanding as well. I've seen 1981 as the release year for Bijan Men and 1984 as the release year for Versace L'Homme. What a couple beauties. There are enough other notes making waves that I don't think of oak moss, necessarily, right away - I can readily accept that it's me and not the lack of oak moss. (Update: After wearing this for a couple days, I am now smelling it as an oak-moss driven fragrance!)

    Bijan Men seems even more complex. It might be 75% like Versace L'Homme and 25% sort of like Patou Pour Homme - there was something spicy-hot in my first sprays.

    For people who only like rare stuff, I can't see Versace L'Homme and/or Bijan Men working, but I like them as much as anything else. From early testing, Versace L'Homme lasts longer.
    Not to throw shade but people who only like rare stuff (or only because it's rare/discontinued) aren't smelling with their noses, but have some more complex need being filled. I'm not qualified to diagnose that, but my guess is it's in the same vein as "must be luxury/niche" or "must be a compliment beast" to be any good. For me, it's only about the indulgence of the smell itself. Availability, price, or status are all roadblocks to acquisition in my mind, not incentives. That being Said, Bijan seems pretty obscure outside our little microcosm of collector/enthusiasts, so it's the better choice if rarity is a factor, even if only slightly so.

    Scent-wise, I get tons more nutmeg in Bijan and refer to it as a nutmeg bomb more than an oakmoss one. The bergamot is also very juicy/tart in Bijan compared to the petitgrain and lemon in L'Homme making it a bit rounder/sweeter (but not "sweet" in modern tolerances like Cedrat Boise or Sauvage bergamot). The base is definitely nicer in L'Homme even if Bijan presents more complex. I think Bijan sits between Cacharel pour L'Homme and Versace L'Homme at least in my mind thanks to the nutmeg. I have scant experience with Patou, and the DNA might be there, but slightly so IMO. I think Patou pH (like most Kerleo perfumes) is another love affair with oakmoss, even if not really a "bomb" either.
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  16. #76
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by drseid View Post
    I wonder if olfactory fatigue is coming into play...? Bijan for Men has got to be one of only a handful of perfumes I have worn that represent the strongest of the strongest in strength... For reference, the others (all in original formulas and in no particular order):

    Poison
    Portrait of a Lady
    Giorgio for Men
    Bogart pour Homme


    I think Bijan for Men may be the strongest of all of them in truth (Poison may be equally strong)... I have a splash bottle, and a couple small dabs of it and people can smell the perfume in other rooms! It is *the* powerhouse of powerhouses, IMO, and a personal favorite that sadly I don’t get a lot of opportunities to wear due to its relative strength. Right now in lockdown that isn’t an issue, but I think if I ever wore it to the office I would be sent home (and this is coming from someone who wears Giorgio for Men to the office regularly). ;-)

    Glad you like it though!
    There is something mysterious at play. My bottle is "cologne" rather than "edt," so maybe that's part of it. Olfactory fatigue could be a factor, but not to this extent, I don't think. I might start a Bijan Men thread.

    The Halston is a surprise. I think it might have hedione (the stuff in Acqua di Gio and maybe Eau Sauvage)? I'm surprised by how modern it smells to me. It is intriguing, but it's less likely than Bijan Men to join the regulars. I'm trending away from variety, and preferring things to fit a more specific classic profile, like the Bijan.


    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Not to throw shade but people who only like rare stuff (or only because it's rare/discontinued) aren't smelling with their noses, but have some more complex need being filled. I'm not qualified to diagnose that, but my guess is it's in the same vein as "must be luxury/niche" or "must be a compliment beast" to be any good. For me, it's only about the indulgence of the smell itself. Availability, price, or status are all roadblocks to acquisition in my mind, not incentives. That being Said, Bijan seems pretty obscure outside our little microcosm of collector/enthusiasts, so it's the better choice if rarity is a factor, even if only slightly so.

    Scent-wise, I get tons more nutmeg in Bijan and refer to it as a nutmeg bomb more than an oakmoss one. The bergamot is also very juicy/tart in Bijan compared to the petitgrain and lemon in L'Homme making it a bit rounder/sweeter (but not "sweet" in modern tolerances like Cedrat Boise or Sauvage bergamot). The base is definitely nicer in L'Homme even if Bijan presents more complex. I think Bijan sits between Cacharel pour L'Homme and Versace L'Homme at least in my mind thanks to the nutmeg. I have scant experience with Patou, and the DNA might be there, but slightly so IMO. I think Patou pH (like most Kerleo perfumes) is another love affair with oakmoss, even if not really a "bomb" either.
    Nutmeg! Ok. I was getting something foodie. Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree also has nutmeg, I seem to recall, and I almost mentioned it as a related fragrance. I think of Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree and Versace L'Homme as related (pathcouli, oakmoss, and vanilla?), but Bijan is so much more like Versace L'Homme, I didn't mention it. I don't know Cacheral pour L'Homme, but it sounds interesting.

    I get the mindset of wanting something rare, especially for people who aren't that into it. Bijan Men does a trick on my mind because it has such a rare, expensive smell, and one-ounce bottles are being sold in lots of three for $12. The idea that there is necessarily a strong correlation between price and quality is too deeply embedded to get past without serious, intensive research, I find. The magazine Consumer Reports was (still is?) good for this kind of research for some things, although not perfume, that I know of.

  17. #77
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    There is something mysterious at play. My bottle is "cologne" rather than "edt," so maybe that's part of it. Olfactory fatigue could be a factor, but not to this extent, I don't think. I might start a Bijan Men thread.

    The Halston is a surprise. I think it might have hedione (the stuff in Acqua di Gio and maybe Eau Sauvage)? I'm surprised by how modern it smells to me. It is intriguing, but it's less likely than Bijan Men to join the regulars. I'm trending away from variety, and preferring things to fit a more specific classic profile, like the Bijan.




    Nutmeg! Ok. I was getting something foodie. Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree also has nutmeg, I seem to recall, and I almost mentioned it as a related fragrance. I think of Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree and Versace L'Homme as related (pathcouli, oakmoss, and vanilla?), but Bijan is so much more like Versace L'Homme, I didn't mention it. I don't know Cacheral pour L'Homme, but it sounds interesting.

    I get the mindset of wanting something rare, especially for people who aren't that into it. Bijan Men does a trick on my mind because it has such a rare, expensive smell, and one-ounce bottles are being sold in lots of three for $12. The idea that there is necessarily a strong correlation between price and quality is too deeply embedded to get past without serious, intensive research, I find. The magazine Consumer Reports was (still is?) good for this kind of research for some things, although not perfume, that I know of.
    A Bijan Thread might be a good idea, and this one has a million flankers like One Man Show, with few if any having notes in common with the original (also like One Man Show). Could be a good place for fans to sus all that out.
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  18. #78

    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    There is something mysterious at play. My bottle is "cologne" rather than "edt," so maybe that's part of it. Olfactory fatigue could be a factor, but not to this extent, I don't think. I might start a Bijan Men thread....
    Interesting. The bottle I just received is EdT (small letter "b" bottle). I haven't given it a full wear yet, just a quick test spray last night, and again just now, so I'll wait till later to try and get some valid impressions. But a couple of things that I've noticed: Compared to the new/current version of Versace L'Homme, I don't see any resemblance. Not to go off on a tangent, but the new L'Homme was not to my liking at all - it was a "ginger bomb" - maybe it was just that particular bottle - glad it was very inexpensive. And the second is that I'm inclined to think that this isn't as strong as I was expecting either.

    But I'd certainly be glad to see a Bijan thread. Seems that there are more than a few variables in trying to figure out what versions of Bijan are what and the timeline of releases.
    Currently wearing: Borsalino by Borsalino

  19. #79
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    There is something mysterious at play. My bottle is "cologne" rather than "edt," so maybe that's part of it. Olfactory fatigue could be a factor, but not to this extent, I don't think. I might start a Bijan Men thread.
    I found this old thread from 2014 here... http://www.basenotes.net/threads/388703-Bijan-for-man. I believe someone else in that old thread mentioned the Versace L’Homme connection too, so you aren’t alone there. I haven’t worn the Versace in a long time (and my bottle has been sitting idle for ages), so can’t make an immediate comparison. I will have to start wearing that one soon (edit: like maybe today).
    Last edited by drseid; 28th May 2020 at 06:45 PM.
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Jasmin Antique (Rogue Perfumery)
    3) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    3) Giorgio V.I.P. Special Reserve (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie

    5) Dia pour Homme vintage edt (Amouage)

    6)
    Anat Fritz and its reissue, called Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie

    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Worth Pour Homme perhaps? (<1995)

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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ifti View Post
    Worth Pour Homme perhaps? (<1995)
    I have sampled that one, and Worth Pour Homme Concentree. There are a couple Basenoters who really like these, and I had to check them out. To me, they were in the Paco Rabanne camp, or what I'm learning to call a "fougere," although I have ferns here, and those smell quite different to me.

  22. #82
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post
    Anything you'd compare this to? I'm on something of a Fougere binge right now...
    Has uncanny resemblance to Enrico Coveri Pour Homme ('83). Bone dry, herbal and, imo, "cold" fragrances, with ECPH having a slight medicinal touch to it (at least for the Evaflor-relaunch of ECPH which is very close to the vintage anyway).
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Guess you'd need to define "budget" first, because depending on your socioeconomic status, that could have one zero, or three on the end.

    For me? Vintage Avons with oakmoss bases. Maybe not "bombs" by sillage standards, but some of them reduce to nothing but oakmoss after 4 hours.
    Which AVON Fragrances fall into that category? Which would you recommend, based on you description above?

  24. #84

    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I have sampled that one, and Worth Pour Homme Concentree. There are a couple Basenoters who really like these, and I had to check them out. To me, they were in the Paco Rabanne camp, or what I'm learning to call a "fougere," although I have ferns here, and those smell quite different to me.
    Haha yes count me in - I regulalry snaffle any that come up on the bay!
    Vintage EDT, AS, HC A/S - are spiffing, yet I had a bad experience with the HC spray (seemed to have no base and mid/top similar to Paco - I think that one faield as a few others have also reviewed / noted it as being a Paco type copy and nothing more!?)
    Paisley EDT ( quite easy to find) - has a huge thud of moss - almost stiffling!

  25. #85
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Hermes Amazone (not the 2017 version) is Oakmoss heaven and often found very inexpensively. Classic Halston, Estee Lauder Aliage, Diva, Paloma Picasso, Old Miss Dior, Bandit are just a few more off the top of my tight-fisted oak moss loving head. I agree that Ho Hang and Cabochard aren't much about Oakmoss, but vintage Azuree - particularly pre natural spray - is (was) very heavy on the Oakmoss, basically it was just vintage Aramis sold at the ladies counter.
    Currently wearing: Zibeline by Weil

  26. #86
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    To me, they were in the Paco Rabanne camp, or what I'm learning to call a "fougere," although I have ferns here, and those smell quite different to me.
    Ferns have no particular fragrance (although I'm sure they all smell like something). Paul Parquet named his landmark Houbigant creation "Fougère Royale" because he thought ferns ought to smell like bergamot, lavender, geranium, oakmoss, and tonka. These days, not only do fougères not smell like ferns, but they also tend to smell unlike Parquet's fantasy accord.

    That's OK: chypres don't smell like sheep, either.
    Currently wearing: Devin by Aramis

  27. #87
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyflake View Post
    Which AVON Fragrances fall into that category? Which would you recommend, based on you description above?
    Tai Winds, Blend 7, Clint
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    Discover a searchable archive of my reviews and more at The Scented Devil

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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    That's OK: chypres don't smell like sheep, either.
    For a Welshman, this disappoints me...

  29. #89
    I’m not old: I’m vintage.
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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    That's OK: chypres don't smell like sheep, either.
    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post
    For a Welshman, this disappoints me...
    Imagine how I felt when I discovered Welshmen don’t smell like whales.
    Currently wearing: Devin by Aramis

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    Default Re: Vintage oak moss bombs on a budget?

    Quote Originally Posted by rynegne View Post
    Borsalino by Borsalino...
    This was a great suggestion. I managed to pick a 100mL up for not a great outlay and it smells great, performance is reasonable on me, the bottle is nice and chunky but the oakmoss is stellar.
    Good compliments from the better half, also.




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