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  1. #1

    Default I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Hi all. Previous Basenotes lurker here … and with this post, officially an active member of the forum. Quarantine makes you do unusual things, right?

    First, a nugget of honesty: I’m a fairly discerning (picky) sniffer, and while I try to be broad-minded, there’s not much that prompts a full bottle purchase. Of course, I love trying new things and I have no issue cracking open the wallet for samples. Having said that, lately it feels as if I’ve hit fragrance gridlock. It’s been months since I’ve stumbled across a scent that truly excites me. In most cases it’s a hard pass, or at best an indifferent “nice, but meh.”

    This is where I’m hoping for assistance - not only suggestions in the modern realm, but perhaps guidance in exploring the classics. I’ve definitely noticed that much of my small collection could be classified as vintage/retro-inspired, or maybe even “timeless." I’d like to give you kind and generous people a quick rundown of some of my likes and dislikes and see where it leads us. All ideas welcome!

    My current faves include Dryad, Maai, Tabac Tabou, Carnal Flower, Moon Bloom, Vetyver (Mona di Orio), Le Sillage Blanc and Dzing. Others in my stable that I also enjoy: Timbuktu, Fumabat, Chypre Mousse, Nuit de Bakelite, Mitsouko, Chanel No. 19, Bal d’Afrique, Au Coeur du Desert and Remember Me (Jovoy),

    I generally prefer chypres (especially green ones) and white florals. I’ve also been getting into aldehydes. Throwing in a touch of underlying animalic skank is always a plus, though I’m not keen on anything that might be considered overpowering. I tend to shy away from heavy amber orientals and gourmands, as well as citruses and aquatics. I would say that most of my collection is unisex, and I’m not afraid of anything that’s marketed toward women.

    One quickl note - I’m not looking to track down (or pay for) vintage perfumes. Reformulations are fine, as long as they’re moderately close to the original.

    Thanks for making it through this long post and I appreciate your help!

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Welcome to you TripleKittens! Enjoy your time here at Basenotes! Perhaps Kedu Sesame by Memo or Aoud Shiny by Montale, both floral chypres.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  3. #3

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Welcome to you TripleKittens! Enjoy your time here at Basenotes! Perhaps Kedu Sesame by Memo or Aoud Shiny by Montale, both floral chypres.
    Thanks! Montale is one of those houses that I haven't tried yet. I could be wrong but it seems like they're known for being a little bit heavier, which I'm wary of. Of course, I could just go lighter on the sprays!

    I have sampled a few of the leather offerings from Memo. They were decent but didn't move the needle too much for me. I'll check out Kedu Sesame.

    Perhaps I should add that there are a handful of notes that I struggle with ... which is unfortunate because they're pretty damn popular throughout the history perfumery. They are rose, iris, patchouli and lavender. It's not that I dislike them - I could smell a rose bush or a sprig of lavender all day - but whenever they're the dominant note in a perfume, I lean toward apathy. That's not to say that I won't keep trying to appreciate them more.

    I know, I know ... I just made this a lot tougher!

  4. #4

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Tried Chypre Palatin? Gets pretty oriental in the base but the I feel the persistent galbanum note adds the required bitterness to maintain that chypre-'angularity'. Plus it's got some nicely blended florals in the top/mid.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    It sounds like the house of Rogue Perfumery will be right up your alley.

    Probably the best matches are the old school spectacular real oakmoss laden chypre Chypre-Siam, hardcore indolic tuberose Flos Mortis and softer, light tuberose Champs Lunaires... And as you say you love white florals, my own favorite from the house, the reference jasmine soliflore Jasmin Antique may also impress.
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Jasmin Antique (Rogue Perfumery)
    3) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    3) Giorgio V.I.P. Special Reserve (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie

    5) Dia pour Homme vintage edt (Amouage)

    6)
    Anat Fritz and its reissue, called Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Lucifer (Renaissance Fragrances) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie


  6. #6

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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Welcome!

    Chypres are very problematic now, with all the restrictions, and current versions of many vintage chypres are not always good. Anyway, thinking about green chypres, have you tried Ormonde Jayne Tiare? Sort of a more citrusy, more relaxed Cristalle. And seconding Chypre Siam for something with actual oakmoss.

    cacio

  7. #7
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    drseid and cacio are right -- given your listed favorites (all of which are wonderful, IMO), you need to get your hands on samples of everything from Rogue Perfumery, and Tiare from Ormonde Jayne will be right up your street. Also, since you like Tabac Tabou, you probably should sample widely from Parfum d'Empire, most of whose output is very much in the classic vein.

  8. #8

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Rogue Perfumery jumped to my mind as well as I read your post. Pagan by Teone Reinthal is a chypre with vintage vibes that I am really loving at the moment. She has a bunch of really amazing perfumes, many of them chypres and many vintage inspired.

  9. #9

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Have you sampled Areej Le Doré: Plumeria De Orris? Sounds like it might fit your criteria and he uses mostly naturals, high quality ingredients.

  10. #10

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Nido View Post
    Tried Chypre Palatin? Gets pretty oriental in the base but the I feel the persistent galbanum note adds the required bitterness to maintain that chypre-'angularity'. Plus it's got some nicely blended florals in the top/mid.
    On my skin, the first 20 minutes are absolutely stunning. However, I'm less enchanted with the dry down, which wanders into familiar amber territory. It's why I've picked up several samples; I keep trying to fall in love with Chypre Palatin as a whole ... not just the opening. Great suggestion though! It's definitely one that I've seriously considered purchasing.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by TripleKittens View Post
    On my skin, the first 20 minutes are absolutely stunning. However, I'm less enchanted with the dry down, which wanders into familiar amber territory. It's why I've picked up several samples; I keep trying to fall in love with Chypre Palatin as a whole ... not just the opening. Great suggestion though! It's definitely one that I've seriously considered purchasing.
    My thoughts precisely about Chypre Palatin. The opening is stunning, and then it all falls apart and flattens out completely.

  12. #12
    Super Member Mak-7's Avatar
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    I like your taste in perfumes and would love to give you quite a few to choose from, but then i read your 2nd post. With some good orientals down, i do suggest trying:
    Roos and roos - mentha religiosa. Excellent minty woodsy chalky scent with little bit of sweetness. Very unique. I just receive 30 ml spliit from ebayer who has very nice batch. Perfumesalesworldwide or smth is the name. Belgium located.

    Xerjoff XXY - modernized easy going chypre style perfume. Enjoy it very much. Iris is not prominent, i doubt ull have any issues with it.

    Irisss by xerjoff, it has iris only at 1 stage but excellent perfume overall, shapeshifter.

    Bing ma yong by auphorie - it is hard to explain this one but it is vintage in feel unisex perfume that is super comforting.

    L'eau by tauer. Excellent orange blossom floral for summer days.

    Bois du portugal by creed/NY intense by nicolai. Must have in every mans wardrobe.

    Hermes agar ebene - suede woody watercolor like perfume.

  13. #13

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by drseid View Post
    It sounds like the house of Rogue Perfumery will be right up your alley.

    Probably the best matches are the old school spectacular real oakmoss laden chypre Chypre-Siam, hardcore indolic tuberose Flos Mortis and softer, light tuberose Champs Lunaires... And as you say you love white florals, my own favorite from the house, the reference jasmine soliflore Jasmin Antique may also impress.

    It's funny that you mention Rogue Perfumery because I came this close to breaking my Basenotes Forum cherry previously wanting to comment on my experience with the house. I really appreciate what Manuel is doing: the artistry, aesthetic, DIY-approach and the fact that most of the offerings give reverent nods toward classic perfumery while still exhibiting distinctly unique voices. Let's not forget that the entire line is very affordable, which is refreshing.

    I was soooooo excited to try Chypre Siam; everything about it seemed like it was right up my alley. And I do like it, but unfortunately it's fleeting on my skin. Like, a delicate whisper, virtually gone within an hour. I noticed that Manuel offers an extrait version by request, so maybe that's on option for the future.

    As for for other highlights, I totally understand the praise for Mousse Illuminee. It's a weirdly singular experience, but one that is completely wearable. At the end of the day, it just wasn't something that I felt compelled to reach for on a regular basis.

    I also dug Derviche, and 40 Rogue was a surprise hit. You're going to look at me funny but I keep picking up an accord that reminds me of diaper cream ... or something I used to slap on to my kids' backside when they were babies. It's a bracing, herbal sensation ... not menthol necessarily but achieving a similar effect. I find it tough to pick up any distinct notes with 40 Rouge, but I get hints of narcissus, oak moss and aldehydes.

    Champs Lumaires was the other one that impressed me. Flos Mortis was okay but I found it just a bit too indolic in a mothball type of way. Ultimately, I thought that CL was very good, but I still like Carnal Flower and Moon Bloom more and I just wasn't sure that I'd ever choose it over those two.

    I have not tried the most recent offerings yet, but I'm enthusiastic to give Jasmin Antique and Tuberose & Moss a go.

  14. #14
    Dependent Beck's Avatar
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Eau du Soir, Soir de Lune, Aramis 900, Aromatics Elixir, Chantecaille Vetyver, Grey Vetiver.
    "True change is within; leave the outside as it is."
    Dalai Lama

  15. #15

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by TripleKittens View Post

    First, a nugget of honesty: I’m a fairly discerning (picky) sniffer, and while I try to be broad-minded, there’s not much that prompts a full bottle purchase. Of course, I love trying new things and I have no issue cracking open the wallet for samples. Having said that, lately it feels as if I’ve hit fragrance gridlock. It’s been months since I’ve stumbled across a scent that truly excites me. In most cases it’s a hard pass, or at best an indifferent “nice, but meh.”

    This is where I’m hoping for assistance - not only suggestions in the modern realm, but perhaps guidance in exploring the classics. I’ve definitely noticed that much of my small collection could be classified as vintage/retro-inspired, or maybe even “timeless." I’d like to give you kind and generous people a quick rundown of some of my likes and dislikes and see where it leads us. All ideas welcome!
    Sounds like you may want to try to explore the Oud genre, start with designer faux Ouds, they're usually very inoffensive. Once you start to get bored again, try the more daring Assam/Manipur region stuff, especially some of those from the Arabian house offering. When you get tired of those, join the rest of us to go down to the rabbit hole in artisanal Oud, be it the pure Oud oil or perfume, a few houses available you can explore, and trust me you ain't never going to get bored on this side of the fence.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Perhaps Jovoy Private Label.

    Jovoy-PrivateLabel.jpg

  17. #17

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    You might really dig vintage Heritage (gold cap).
    "No one wants advice - only corroboration." - John Steinbeck
    Currently wearing: Green Irish Tweed by Creed

  18. #18

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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by ben805 View Post
    Sounds like you may want to try to explore the Oud genre, start with designer faux Ouds, they're usually very inoffensive. Once you start to get bored again, try the more daring Assam/Manipur region stuff, especially some of those from the Arabian house offering. When you get tired of those, join the rest of us to go down to the rabbit hole in artisanal Oud, be it the pure Oud oil or perfume, a few houses available you can explore, and trust me you ain't never going to get bored on this side of the fence.
    This is what happened to me. When I got tired of buying perfumes I got into artisanal Oud and some attars. There are still a lot of attar companies I would like to try but artisanal Oud takes most of my money now. A very expensive but rewarding rabbit hole.

  19. #19

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    drseid and cacio are right -- given your listed favorites (all of which are wonderful, IMO), you need to get your hands on samples of everything from Rogue Perfumery, and Tiare from Ormonde Jayne will be right up your street. Also, since you like Tabac Tabou, you probably should sample widely from Parfum d'Empire, most of whose output is very much in the classic vein.
    You guys are definitely getting my vibe! I picked up a sample of Tiare about a year ago. The first wearing didn't do much for me, but I recently gave it a second chance and thought, "wait ... do I like this?" I've given it a couple more spins and I find it enjoyable - but I still haven't quite wrapped my brain around it. It will definitely receive future consideration. Generally speaking, I appreciate most of what I've tried from Ormonde Jayne. I actually own Woman. It was a rare semi-impulse buy and it doesn't enter the rotation all that much, but I still give it a spritz from time to time.

    I'm starting to come around to Le Cri and I have a decant of Ambre Russe, which is an Amber I can get on board with. However, I didn't like Iskander and Corsica Furiosa as much as I thought I would. And Azemour Les Orangers was just okay. There's definitely others in the Parfum d'Empire line that I'd like to try.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jcelello View Post
    Rogue Perfumery jumped to my mind as well as I read your post. Pagan by Teone Reinthal is a chypre with vintage vibes that I am really loving at the moment. She has a bunch of really amazing perfumes, many of them chypres and many vintage inspired.
    I was literally browsing the Teone Reinthal website last week. I've heard so many great things. I have to admit that the number of perfumes in her line is a tad overwhelming. Also, the discovery set is a bit steep; I'm not sure that I'm ready to make a $90 (plus shipping) commitment to 5 samples.

  20. #20

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Dothraki View Post
    Have you sampled Areej Le Doré: Plumeria De Orris? Sounds like it might fit your criteria and he uses mostly naturals, high quality ingredients.

    Thus far, Areej Le Doré has been elusive. Every time I place a sample order from Lucky Scent, the ones I want to try are out of stock. 100% on my radar though. Plumeria De Orris sounds like my cuppa!

    I did finally try a couple from Bortnikoff. My first though about Moss Cologne was that it smells like what I thought Chypre Siam would smell like ... and if you put Rogue's price on the Bortnikoff, I'd probably pull the trigger! I also sampled Coup de Foudre. I need some more time with it, but so far it's a like-not-love.

  21. #21

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    My thoughts precisely about Chypre Palatin. The opening is stunning, and then it all falls apart and flattens out completely.
    Unfortunately, "falls apart" aptly sums up how I feel about a bit chunk of the perfumes I've tried over the past couple years.

  22. #22

    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by TripleKittens View Post
    It's funny that you mention Rogue Perfumery because I came this close to breaking my Basenotes Forum cherry previously wanting to comment on my experience with the house. I really appreciate what Manuel is doing: the artistry, aesthetic, DIY-approach and the fact that most of the offerings give reverent nods toward classic perfumery while still exhibiting distinctly unique voices. Let's not forget that the entire line is very affordable, which is refreshing.

    I was soooooo excited to try Chypre Siam; everything about it seemed like it was right up my alley. And I do like it, but unfortunately it's fleeting on my skin. Like, a delicate whisper, virtually gone within an hour. I noticed that Manuel offers an extrait version by request, so maybe that's on option for the future.

    As for for other highlights, I totally understand the praise for Mousse Illuminee. It's a weirdly singular experience, but one that is completely wearable. At the end of the day, it just wasn't something that I felt compelled to reach for on a regular basis.

    I also dug Derviche, and 40 Rogue was a surprise hit. You're going to look at me funny but I keep picking up an accord that reminds me of diaper cream ... or something I used to slap on to my kids' backside when they were babies. It's a bracing, herbal sensation ... not menthol necessarily but achieving a similar effect. I find it tough to pick up any distinct notes with 40 Rouge, but I get hints of narcissus, oak moss and aldehydes.

    Champs Lumaires was the other one that impressed me. Flos Mortis was okay but I found it just a bit too indolic in a mothball type of way. Ultimately, I thought that CL was very good, but I still like Carnal Flower and Moon Bloom more and I just wasn't sure that I'd ever choose it over those two.

    I have not tried the most recent offerings yet, but I'm enthusiastic to give Jasmin Antique and Tuberose & Moss a go.
    l recommend that you also give Flora & Fauna a try.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  23. #23

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Apart from so many great recommendations, also adding:

    most of the Blu Mediterraneo scent line by Acqua di Parma, additional Xerjoff scents like the ones from the XJ 1861 line, Muschio Bianco by Acca Kappa, Hedera by l'Erbolario, Creed Royal Mayfair and/or Royal Water, Escale a Portofino by Dior, some of the Aqua Allegoria options by Guerlain as well

  24. #24
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Hi Triplekittens-

    I’ve enjoyed reading about your perfume investigations. We seem to have similar tastes (green chypres and white florals). I appreciate Dryad and Le Sillage Blanc but feel that they are clearly surpassed by their vintage inspirations. I ordered Champs Lunaires almost instantly and I was really impressed with Jasmin Antique.

    But you are not interested in vintages, alas! Okay, I will do my best but you have tied my vintage geek hands...

    Have you tried current Bandit? I enjoy it along with my vintage versions.

    Bruno Fazzolari’s Au Delà Narcisse

    Azuree

    Cabochard

    The current Miss Dior Original [sic] extrait de parfum is “moderately close” to the original, the EDT is not.

    Olympic Orchids Sonnet XVII

    Sonoma Scent Studios Nostalgie

    Current Vol de Nuit parfum or EDT — again, perhaps close enough to be worth a sniff

    Good luck and let us know what you think of your tests.

  25. #25

    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Adding Romanza by Masque to the list of recommendations.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  26. #26
    Basenotes Junkie SubUmbra's Avatar
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    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Seems we have -- somewhat -- similar tastes. I'm into green things, but not necessarily Chypres. That said, I adore MAII & Chypre Mousse, so I'll recommend the following:

    Burvuvu, Dinudisit & Eiderantler from January Scent Project
    Grev by Slumberhouse
    Méchant Loup by L'Artisan
    Mousse Illuminée from Rogue
    Patchouli Intense by Nicolai
    Tropic of Capricorn by Olympic Orchids
    Yuzu/Rose/Patchouli by Chatillon Lux
    Cédrat Enivrant & Vétiver Fatal from Atelier Colognes
    Confessions of a Garden Gnome by Fort and Manlé
    Erawan & Le Pavillon d'Or by Parfums Dusita
    Fusion Sacrée Obscur from Majda Bekkali
    Sedona Sweet Grass by Providence Perfume Co.

  27. #27

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mak-7 View Post
    I like your taste in perfumes and would love to give you quite a few to choose from, but then i read your 2nd post. With some good orientals down, i do suggest trying:
    Roos and roos - mentha religiosa. Excellent minty woodsy chalky scent with little bit of sweetness. Very unique. I just receive 30 ml spliit from ebayer who has very nice batch. Perfumesalesworldwide or smth is the name. Belgium located.

    Xerjoff XXY - modernized easy going chypre style perfume. Enjoy it very much. Iris is not prominent, i doubt ull have any issues with it.

    Irisss by xerjoff, it has iris only at 1 stage but excellent perfume overall, shapeshifter.

    Bing ma yong by auphorie - it is hard to explain this one but it is vintage in feel unisex perfume that is super comforting.

    L'eau by tauer. Excellent orange blossom floral for summer days.

    Bois du portugal by creed/NY intense by nicolai. Must have in every mans wardrobe.

    Hermes agar ebene - suede woody watercolor like perfume.
    By all means, recommend me some orientals! it's not that I hate the genre - for some reason, many perfumes with a heavy amber base are difficult for me to wear. I get sense of being enveloped by a damp, dull clay-like substance. However, there are exceptions to that.

    As for your suggestions, I haven't tried any of those other than NY Intense, which I liked. There's some really interesting things that I hadn't considered - the Roos & Roos - Mentha Religiosa sounds intriguing. I do like mint if it's done in the right way.

  28. #28

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by hellbentforleather View Post
    You might really dig vintage Heritage (gold cap).
    Thanks! There's a ton of Guerlains on my list. Other than Mitsouko, Shalimar and Vetiver, my exposure to the house is shamefully sparse. There's just not any local retailers that carry the brand and I usually pick up samples from Lucky, Indigo, Twisted Lilly, etc. I'll need to hit up one of the decant websites for sure. At the top of my "to try" list are Chamade, Vol De Nuit and Jicky. I'd like to give Habit Rouge and L'Heure Bleue a try as well.

  29. #29

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    Quote Originally Posted by techt View Post
    Perhaps Jovoy Private Label.

    Jovoy-PrivateLabel.jpg

    I've heard good things. How close is it to Incident Diplomatique? Tried that one and found it nice but I prefer something that is a tad more subtle.

  30. #30

    Default Re: I've Hit A (Fragrance) Wall ...

    HI TrippleKittens, it looks like you have a type!

    You've had a lot of excellent suggestions already, but based on your likes I'd like to add Prima T by Bruno Acampora; a crisply green, vintage leaning floral. The oil might be your best bet as it wears a little more intimately than the booming EdP. If you're into Mona Di Orio's style of fragrances, please give the fantastic, spicy jasmine on an animalic oriental base that is Carnation a try. A lighter green/white floral that may be interesting is Tiare by Ormonde Jayne, it's a bit Cristalle-esque.




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