Perfume Directory

Nuit de NoŽl (1922)
by Caron

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Nuit de NoŽl information

Year of Launch1922
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 246 votes)

People and companies

HouseCaron
PerfumerErnest Daltroff
PackagingFťlicie Bergaud
Parent CompanyAles Group

About Nuit de NoŽl

Nuit de NoŽl is a feminine perfume by Caron. The scent was launched in 1922 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Ernest Daltroff. The bottle was designed by Fťlicie Bergaud

Nuit de NoŽl fragrance notes

Reviews of Nuit de NoŽl

Caron Nuit de NoŽl (1922) is a dark, brooding floral chypre on a Mousse de Sax base, and according to Caron, "saw the light of day in 1922, just after the First World War, while Europe was in a frenzy of parties and exotic escapism". I can totally see something this indolic and bacchanal being the scent of the evening after "The Great War" held everyone's life in the balance, plus with the unrestricted Capitalism of the era making new-age barons and duchesses of the wealthy elite, hedonism was at an all-time high just prior to The Great Depression. Ernest Daltroff delivered his cheeky vision of "Christmas Night" in perfume form, but there is nothing really sacred about what's going on in the bottle. The beautiful 1920's art deco lettering around the original black extrait bottle (again being used for current production) sets the mood for what's inside. Nuit de NoŽl didn't really have a direct Guerlain or Coty contemporary at the time, but the long-dead Guerlain Djedi (1927) is said to also be a similarly-dark chypre.

Nuit de NoŽl opens with a note accredited as based on a tincture Daltroff made of rose and jasmine, with lemon and ylang-ylang to soften the approach of such a heady start. From there, we get some iris to sharpen and clean up the accord, with muguet, tuberose, and violet leaf to further round and complicate the floral balance as it dances on a rich mossy base. By the heart, Nuit de NoŽl is a tad stifling with all the indolic florals fighting with the soapy ones, but late in the dry down, the oakmoss in the Mousse de Saxe (truly something that can be worn by itself) helps add the dark bite which hits on the "nuit" aspects of the florals. Vanilla and amber also warm things up but the smoky vetiver assists the oakmoss in the Mousse to give the final sharp punch at the skin level. This isn't the terrifying leather chypres of the post-WWII years, but Nuit de NoŽl does not take prisoners in the bedroom, which is surprising since it has no evident animalics. Wear time is fair as is sillage, since despite the nearly-cloying waft the accord can produce on the wearer, performance is otherwise a tight bubble.

Those who splurge for the pricey extrait as the only currently-available option may get less of that Mousse de Saxe effect due to IFRA, but the rest of this old girl's fangs are still intact. The vintage eau de toilette sample I primarily based my review on comes in the same bottle the masculine Caron range still uses, and has comes across like the younger and dangerously-flirtateous sibling to Narcisse Noir (1911). This is another perfume for history buffs with no proper context or gender for use in modern times, but its original feminine marketing still mostly applies due to the semi-oriental ambery floral feeling which contrasts the striking chypre structure. Like most older Carons, vintage EdC and EdT bottles going for fair prices are rare, so there are seldom any deals regardless if buying new or old. I don't quite think "gothic" applies here, but for anyone wanting to smell like ghosts of the past dancing to Cole Porter in dimly-lit gilded halls, this is your perfume if the steep price is right. Sample if possible, and preferably vintage at that. Thumbs up!
07th May, 2019
Vintage sample... First time I've ever sniffed. It IS a beautiful chypre as I imagined it would be. This is yet another classic that had slipped by my radar for so many years.

It is the classic, multi-layered floral grouping of notes that mesh well together. She doesn't give up her individual notes that easily. The top and middle notes swirl together in a whirling waltz. Mature. Deep. No sugary modernity. Style and grace are its character. It is enveloping. It hugs you.

The base notes compliment the other layers. Again, I find I cannot pick out any specific note. Caron's secret sauce mix. I can't say that Nuit de Noel smells of Christmas to me. I can say it does represent Winter, for its wear-ability. The hints of spice, vanilla-sugar, and woody-earth aspects of the base are comforting. Pure classic. Pure femininity. One of the best bottle and packaging designs ever, to boot.
21st April, 2019
It's a like a worm soft blanket yet so powerful and unique. It smells totally manly (what ever that means) on my skin. Can't get enough of this fragrance!
03rd November, 2018
Do get a sense of christmas in the drydown and while its not mentioned as official notes I do get a sense of christmas spices. I do get a sense of a scented candle though
16th July, 2018
Soft and silky and utterly sumptuous, this velvety chypre/oriental smells like sweetened nuts and velvety-moss and candle-lit incense. In other words, it smells deeply, gently vintage and completely unlike anything else. The pure parfum in the black 'flapper' bottles is the version to sniff. Here all the floral notes (primarily ylang-ylang and rose) blend so beautifully with the low-toned alto-notes of oak moss and anise that it's as if your skin itself is simply radiating a lovely and tender essence--one that marks you as warm, beautiful, grown up, and female. There is something in here that also hints at seductive, swirling smoke. This is a rare beauty, and along with Tabac Blond, one of Caron's absolute best.

Pure unadulterated love for this one!
16th September, 2017 (last edited: 20th November, 2019)
I think I'm just not a fan of old fashioned chypres. The notes are too well blended for me and I can pick out a clovey pine that might have a rose hint to it and is covering up a really nice oakmoss. However this is probably an excellent example of a chypre. This is the EDT version.
11th February, 2017

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