Fleurs de Rocaille (1933)
by Caron

By now, almost everyone knows that the times have not been kind to the house of Caron – too many of the current offerings are shadows of their former selves. I can only guess what vintage Fleurs de Rocaille smelt like, but the current EDT offers little to recommend it – ‘inoffensive’ being the kind view here.
After touches of lilac, carnation and mimosa done in a light air-whipped style, it shifted into an ambiguous floral foam – both soapy and watery at once – but with an unappealing resinous squeal emanating from its base reminiscent of preparations used to treat wood floors. Fortunately the latter didn’t last long, but the feeling of a needlessly buttoned up floral remained.

A slightly sweet, nicely glowing jasmine is the core top note - and top in quality it is indeed, with a hint of gentle sweetness. This as well as the drydown is chracterised by an overarching abundance of aldehydes, giving is a crisp side. In the base a sandal appears, and I also get a honeyed creamy impression that at times takes on ambery characteristics.

All this is beautifully blended of ingredients of highest quality. I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity. Strangely though, after six hours a slightly powdery resurgence of the honeyed amber provides pleasant transient reminiscences, which last another five hours, albeit extremely close to my skin. And have to apply it very liberally, otherwise it last less long.

A classic of simple structure but of the highest quality. 3.5/5

Yet another super classic floral bomb, with a lot of jasmine, lavender and heliotrope; earth, pollen, aldehydes, sumptuosity and femininity at its best. Slightly honeyed, and increasingly soapy as minutes pass - a floral, rich, powdery and slightly metallic kind of soapy. A hint of citrus at the opening, camphoraceous resins and benzoin on the base. Can't get any more classic than this, in a totally good and compelling way: a safe, confident, classy, well-aged and even kind of austerely majestic floral chypre for elegant ladies (and men). Perhaps unoriginal (or a bit washed-down in the current version), but a solid one.

7,5/10

This is the only scent that reminds me of Estee Lauder's White Linen. White Linen is my signature scent. Fleurs de Rocaille is like a softer more summery version of White Linen to me. I do find it lasts on my skin, although on others I see it does not. It does rate good comments when I wear it and I always have a backup bottle. When I first smelled it it was like stumbling on a golden smell I'd looked for for a long time.

I agree, this perfume is 'done right'.

The opening of Fleurs de Rocaille is very aledhydic, though on my skin the aldehydes only last a short time, giving way to almost bittersweet floral notes (which remind of me heather and gorse). After 5-6 hours it is still very strong, and becomes very animalic: I have seen some fragrances (most notably Kouros) described as having an almost urine note, which is definitely evident in this stage of Fleurs de Rocaille; maybe it's a type of musk. It's not unpleasant, but definitely animalic.

Apart from the aldehydic notes which only last 10-15 minutes on my skin, I can't compare Fleurs de Rocaille with perfumes such as Chanel No5 or Arpege, as I have seen a number of online reviews doing. Fleurs de Rocaille is very elegant and sophistcated, and certainly not dated.

Do not confuse Fleurs de Rocaille with the newer Fleur de Rocaille, which is a much more modern and in my opinion, not very pleasant floral fragrance.