Perfume Directory

Tanglewood Bouquet (1932)
by Crown Perfumery


Tanglewood Bouquet information

Year of Launch1932
Average Rating
(based on 15 votes)

People and companies

HouseCrown Perfumery
Parent CompanyClive Christian
Parent Company at launchUnilever > Lever Brothers

About Tanglewood Bouquet

Relaunched as Anglia by the Anglia Perfumery

Reviews of Tanglewood Bouquet

Basenotes and Fragrantica have this as from 1932. Parfumo has it as 1927. Perfume Intelligence has both: from 1927 as "an edp with top notes of mo-lu-hwa [sic]*, ylang-ylang, chrysanthemum and peach, heart notes of spicy florals and heliotrope; on base notes of benzoin, styrax, cinnamon, nutmeg, musk and vanilla" (which sounds like the 1990s version), and 1932 as "a classical floral-oriental men’s fragrance" (which sounds like a mistake).

Meanwhile, Salt, Scents, and Society—the Internet's best Crown Perfumery authority—places the earliest known issue as 1874.

In fact, it's at least as early as 1873, per ads from September of that year in London's Morning Post and the Graphic, amongst others. These ads proclaim, "The Grand Prize Medal of Merit at the Vienna Exhibition has been unanimously awarded for these perfumes, with many compliments from the President of the Jury, who said he had never seen such fine goods." The ads single out Tanglewood Bouquet along with two unrevived Crown scents, Meadow Queen and Mathiola. Other sources confirm that Crown Perfumery was indeed commended at the 1873 Vienna World's Fair.

In any case, Tanglewood Bouquet is a light, fruity-spicy floral, not ambery in the mode of a typical "oriental." By "light," I refer to both the weight of the fragrance and its sunny disposition. However, it is by no means a simple fragrance. There's quite a bit going on under the hood, with different accords taking center stage from one sniff to the next. The peach note here is nothing like a Guerlain peach, leaning more toward a less acidic orange, and that combined with the florals creates almost a honeysuckle accord, with its sweetness balanced by the nutmeg and cinnamon. So, while it conveys a certain youthful naïveté, I would not dismiss it as "trivial" or "mundane."

Complaints about longevity for an EDP are understandable—I reapplied for the sake of the review. But then, EDP refers to concentration, not performance. If this formulation is indeed authentic (or nearly so) to a natural perfume from 1873, as was Barry Gibson's stated intent, then even an extrait would likely have limited longevity relative to modern perfumes.

Not something I'd reach for often, but quite lovely nonetheless.

*Mo-li-hwa is Chinese for jasminum sambac, aka Arabian jasmine.
08th May, 2021
I'm a Crown Perfumery devotee and confess that, for the first time, I can say that a fragrance in their line is not worthy of the Crown on its bottle. It's a trivial, mundane, overly in-you-face floral. What few spices that have been tossed in barely make a dent in the peach-candy sweetness. This creation might work well as a first fragrance for a young lady, but certainly lacks the complexity and maturity those of us whose youth is but a memory.

I own 11 of Crown Perfumery's masterpieces and can understand why one can still pick up Tanglewood Bouquet for a song.
24th June, 2008
Just the name of this spicym enchanting fragrance is enough to have you waltzing into the evening in a scene straight out of "The Sound of Music." Surprisingly, though, this fragrance is more about an oriental theme than anything else; the florals are ylang-ylang, chrysanthemum and mo-lu-hwa, a "fragrant Chinese flower," and the base is heavy with resins and spices, including benzoin, styrax, cinnaomn, nutmeg and vanilla. The peach and heliotrope notes mainly add more sweetness and a little light, but make no mistake - this is meant to be an exotic fragrance in its own right. It lingers for the longest time - goes on a bit sharp and alcohol-heavy but that fades away soon enough, leaving you with a very unique bouquet and again, that deep drydown. Richly golden in feeling, it's a stunning cool weather fragrance and one versatile enough to actually wear with jeans and sweaters; I find all the Crown fragrances I've used to be "properly British" in their own way but generally a little more lifestyle-geared than, say, some of the weightier stuff from the French houses. As with scents from Penhaglion, Floris and Crabtree and Evelyn, you don't necessarily feel like you're creating a jarring juxtaposition by sporting Crown's fragrances in more casual moments. Sadly, this wonderful scent as well as all of the Crown fragrances are no longer widely available, and seem to be becoming more scarce by the second. If you're curious about this "veddy British" read on an oriental scent, snap this one up ASAP if you ever see it anywhere!
29th September, 2005

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