Perfume Directory

Alliage (1972)
by Estée Lauder

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Alliage information

Year of Launch1972
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 123 votes)

People and companies

HouseEstée Lauder
PerfumerFrancis Camail
PackagingIra Levy
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Alliage

This is a very green, 'sport' fragrance. Alliage is French for 'mixture'.

Alliage fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Alliage

In 1972, Alliage was billed as the first sport fragrance for women, but it smells closer to Knize Ten than CK One and is nothing like the sport genre that we know today. Unlike Trophée (1982), which is a green citrus, and Sport de Paco Rabanne (1986), the citrus element is fleeting and there are no watery notes anywhere. Instead, Alliage has a dry and slightly aldehydic pink floral, set against an old-fashioned rubbery green leather. Despite the fact that there is a medicinal, liniment note on paper, this didn’t come through in wearing, and the 'sporty' changing room vibe - backed up by odours like wooden benches, grass stains and a slight musky-animalic feel - is, in practice lost.

The sense that Alliage is decent but nothing exceptional is increased by the fact that its performance is quite modest. It takes quite a lot of juice to make an impact and when it does there is little diffusion. This necessity to pile it on may be why the sporty side doesn’t really come through. But on the other hand, being pretty linear Alliage does last quite well, charting a course that’s not so far from Knize Ten (1924); and it also keeps an eye on Calandre (1969). Alliage is more clearly floral than these two, and despite the claim of novelty made by Lauder, it does come across as a rather conventional green feminine of the early seventies : cf. No19, Givenchy III etc.

Generally, I think this sensible - and not sporty - leather floral was too muted in practice, its originality lost in a structure that derived a bit too much from Knize Ten. Try it on paper for a different perspective.

3*

Alliage; square column miniature bottle, no box
25th December, 2019
I find Alliage the most unusual of the older Estee Lauder fragrances: as it hits my nose when I spray it, I am immediately reminded of the green notes of Private Collection; however, on my skin Alliage immediately becomes far more herbal. I don't smell either the peach or citrus notes in the pyramid. The fragrance remains very green and becomes more herbal, before the chypre, musk, wood, vetiver and oakmoss notes develop. There are definitely some green notes shared with Private Collection, but they are almost completely overpowered by the herbal-green notes; Alliage, though is not fresh-green. Unfortunately after about 40 minutes on my skin, Alliage starts to fade, and after about an hour and a half, I can only detect it very faintly. When it's at it's peak, the overall effect is the rather strange sounding mixture of Parfum d'Hermes, Guerlain's Herba Fresca, with the tiniest hint of Private Collection. I don't dislike Alliage, but it's not really my sort of fragrance; and it's sillage and longevity on me are always disappointing.

Very pleasant, but for an essentially green Estee Lauder fragrance (in fact, one of my all-time favourites), I much prefer Private Collection. Definitely suitable for men too
23rd May, 2018 (last edited: 06th June, 2018)
This isn't a 1980s fragrance, but oh boy, the sillage fills a room and lasts all day for me. The drydown on me acts like a linear fragrance too. It is very green and resinous to me. I am reminded of leaves burning in the fall. I usually wear this with a leather jacket or skirt as summer fades and Indian summer begins. It's getting harder to find at Lauder counters. In some places, you have to order it, and it comes in a generic bottle rather than the original square bottle with silver trim. I have an old bottle, so I don't know if it's been reformulated. I hope they never discontinue this.
08th September, 2017 (last edited: 28th October, 2018)
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Opening with a dark green woodsy note, a touch boozy and lashed heavily with galbanum and brightened up a touch by a mandarin/lemony citrus note. Later on a slightly resinous myrrh impression is added. Very pleasant.

In the heart notes a nice, green jasmine note develops, which, at times, has a herbal undertone. The base adds a mossy note, and the myrrh undertone is still present thoughout this stage; this myrrh, however, never really claims a central rôle in this composition as it does, for instance, in Myrrhe Ardente.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and seven hours if longevity on my skin.

An agreeable green-citrus-woodsy autumn chypre nlended well whist maintaing good structure. The quality of the ingredients is very respectable. 3.25/5.
23rd January, 2017
Don't really know why this would'nt be sold as Unisex.
It's one of the Dark Green Galbanum vegetal bombs that's anchored with Moss Vetiver Oakmoss. A Peachy Citrus top has an acidic sweetness that almost goes Peach Orange Crystals bright. Through the centre is a stripe of something waxy where the Thyme a little dusty resides.
This is my kind of Sports Cologne
04th June, 2016 (last edited: 13th January, 2017)
Alliage (which is apparently now called Aliage, minus one L) is a perfect example of one of those filthy green 70's chypres that combine a lot of really unlikeable smells into something charismatic and somehow beautiful. At it's core, it's a chypre, so there's that green bergamot/galbanum/moss skeleton. The stars of the show are an upfront vinegar smell and jasmine fused with clove. It's sort of leathery as well, in that oily green chypre way, and there's a large slug of poopy civet in there, too. As the flowery clove and vinegar fade, a dusty sandalwood takes its place adorning the greens and the scent ends with a typical mossy chypre base.

Somehow, these vinegar/flower dirty chypres seem to smell fantastic on me - I find them quite masculine, though it's worth a warning that this is a bit of a challenging perfume. It's wonderful in its own filthy vinegar and poop kind of way, but I don't think this is going to be much of a crowd-pleaser. My only real criticism is that the concentration feels weak, like an EDT at best, leaving everything feeling unnecessarily quiet after a couple of hours. I would have enjoyed having the sandalwood/moss combination that comes in later be much more prominent, but I guess that's to be expected with the lower price point. That being said, I really like Alliage, so definitely still a thumbs up.
06th November, 2015

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