Pleasures (1995)
by Estée Lauder

Pleasures; a halfway house between the eighties fluorescent rose and peony, that most censorial of flowers. And underlying that, bitter brown woody burnt sugar.

As much the nineties in its own way as l'Eau d'Issey and the aquatics, but with more character.

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Vintage carded sample

What a surprise this was. Apparently I missed the buzz about it. I wasn’t expecting soap - cool, clean, green-floral soap. But beyond that, a detergent powder feel, that sparky, up-your-nose reaction. I then read some reviews, as the functional fragrance cross-over was confusing me, and found that, yes, this was the first fragrance in the 90’s to use soap as its theme. A new musk with a high, sparky quality that crossed with florals to create a soapy note, allowed the making of a ‘clean’ fragrance.
After living through the 80’s, I understand the craving for palate-cleansing fragrances then, to chase all that oriental perfume goo away. It must have been very refreshing. I missed all that, so am wondering how it works for me in the 2000teens. It doesn’t smell half bad, really, and I get it if someone wants to extend that clean soapy vibe all day long. But most who love it, talk about its fantastic floral component, and I don’t really get that. Both lily and peony have always smelled artificial on me, so there’s no help to be had from them. Ultimately, though inoffensive, it ends up smelling too much like powdered clothes detergent to me. I’m tempted to put it in my laundry rinse and see how it works as a rinsing agent scent.

My oh my, Pleasures is a very bright floral perfume with a classic vibe to it. Very simple, soap-like airiness that - like the bottle color - says "white" fragrance.

The nature of this flower-heavy perfume makes it easy to overapply and become headache inducing. There's a sharp accord (lily? peony?) that even resembles certain bathroom air spray varieties - again, becoming more pronounced with heavier spray-ons.

Otherwise, Pleasures is a really fragrant, beautiful, and mature white flower garden that should be tried before buying.

Ah this itchy rose note. I always associate it with lemongrass and mosquito repellent, and i can’t stand it or get over it here. Potent fragrance.

I actually forgot I used to own this. It's pretty, subtle, gentle, quiet, soft spoken, timid ... and ultimately forgettable. Meh.