It seems to me that the original Givenchy III, like many old chypres, was designed to go with tweed skirts and tailoring. But when it was reformulated, it turned into something more like a suave modern accessory to the roll neck sweater.
This new version is a silky green chypre with a direct straight through cast - giving it a modern fairly minimal feel. There are florals, but they're pale and discrete, and it's sweet - but also dry. The main sense of GIII is a silky floral greenness with a finely blended chypre that stays in the background. Very nice.
But this is a green chypre and the synthetic green notes tend to break through in the end, upsetting the balance of a hitherto lovely work.
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Judging by the bemused reaction of the Givenchy SA when I told her 'No, don't gift wrap it thanks, I'm going to wear it myself', it would seem that LVMH (or at least their people) had no inkling of what had happened to GIII - which had transformed under their noses from green Old Girl to Unisex Chic.
4*
FB June 2012
Vintage miniature with no box
I loved the reviewer who said this could/should be called "Black Moss." This is precisely what this scent smells like to me: something darkly and vividly green from the very most shaded part of the forest. I have never encountered such a deep and almost stark and angular chypre and one that showcases oak moss in such a beautifully classical way. I'm amazed that this was marketed to women, but would be so impressed by any female who would wear this with casualness and aplomb.
Givenchy lll in vintage extract would make an amazing and oh-so-striking signature scent for an independent and idiosyncratic woman. I'm picturing Charlotte Rampling, for some reason or another.
Vintage EDT and Eau de Parfum.I believe this to be the pinnacle of the perfumers art. A heartbreakingly beautiful sparkling green chypre which is so beautifully balanced,for me it stands head and shoulders above the rest.The aldehyde and galbanum opening is exquisite and makes it feel still modern even though the moss and patchouli in the drydown is classic.I have been steadily building a collection of the different incarnations of this beauty since it was sadly discontinued and now have a lovely wardrobe of my favourite fragrance, I cannot bear to go a day without smelling it. The mossy green ropes of the previous review have bound themselves to my heart and I cannot give it up!
Vintage eau de toilette.
It's like I remember, from decades ago. Well-blended, "old school" fragrance. I can pick out gardenia, galbanum, carnation, hyacinth, amber, patchouli, and vetiver. The aldehydes on top are great. Not overly "buzzy" to my nose.
Not a to-die-for fragrance but, very enjoyable.
Why I love vintages...
As soon as I smelt this one, it took me right back to the reason why you can't beat a vintage chypre. There's something about the fresh combination with the oakmoss and delicate florals done right that just allures and entices you. Truly a lot of French fragrances made during this era were exceptional, composed with care and artistry.
I get a lot of the fresh floral & slightly fruity citrus top, with the galbanum and jasmine coming in, balancing the harsh bitterness and the dusty oakmoss with a vibrant hint of citrus and bright floral. The orris root, sandalwood, lily-of-the-valley and even coconut come together absolutely wonderfully here, with a honeyed gardenia note that compliments other white florals and even hyacinch. Really a fragrance which is multi-faceted and extremely well put together and enjoyable. It's a joy to wear and defies gender classification in my opinion. I'm wearing the vintage eau de toilette and it's really something else. I can't speak for modern formulations or versions but if you do get a chance to try vintage and you are a chypre fan just buy it. If you like Mitsouko and No. 19 then this is a great and unique companion to them. One which has to be experienced. Exceptionally good and what real perfumery is all about.
Stardate 20180504:
Vintage Version:
Reference Chypre. More wearable than Coty's 1980s version.
The tradition chypre with bergamont (or other hesperides) suffer from the fickle nature of the citruses. The green from Galbanum makes the top linger longer and makes the chypre structure last longer.
A must try for Chypre lovers.