Perfume Directory

Coque d'Or (1937)
by Guerlain


Coque d'Or information

Year of Launch1937
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
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People and companies

Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton
Parent Company at launchGuerlain

About Coque d'Or

Coque d'Or is a feminine perfume by Guerlain. The scent was launched in 1937

Coque d'Or fragrance notes

Reviews of Coque d'Or

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
The lavender is the opening - a beautiful lavender - blends with bergamot and a refined orris to a triad of remarkable lure. With three brushstrokes a unique olfactory hue is achieved. Masterly simplicity.

The base adds a cyclamen soon, which expresses a whiff of a sweet pipe tobacco at times. Soon a beautiful carnation arises, a bright, intensely scintillating carnation of depth and beauty. It all merges into an intriguing floral complex.

The base brings us closer to the range of the chypre. But it is not a sharp or harsh chypre - it is far removed from the likes of the great Gucci Nobile. This is a refined and subtle chypre, with a fine, soft oakmoss that has just a touch of an edge. A comparatively smooth patchouli that is a bit darker like up a restrained and musky civet, and again the civet’s animalic side is tampered and quite discreet. All this results is a subtle chypre; oakmoss and musks in a silk wrapping so to speak. Towards the end a surprise arrived in the form of a Tolu Balsam impression, which merges with a vetiver that expresses just a smidgeon of earthiness. Nahe balsam is mild and devoid of any medicinal or ceremonious characteristics. The vetiver and the balsam result in an refinedly unique note - again couple of olfactory brushstrokes resulting in a unique note.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and a phenomenal thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

This gorgeous scent for cooler spring or warmer autumn evening events is a stunner. The nigh unrivaled ability to form creative notes out of a few components is made possible by the supreme quality of the ingredients and their intense beauty. Whilst the heart notes, apart from the delightful carnation, are somewhat less radiant at times, the overall impression is that if a seminal masterpiece. Given the age of my sample, it’s longevity is amazing. One of Guerlain’s all-time finest. 4.5/5.

09th April, 2020
Guerlain – Coque d’Or (1937)

Top notes are Anise, Lavender, Bergamot
Heart notes are Jasmine, Carnation, Cyclamen, Orris
Base notes are Vetiver, Patchouli, Tolu Balsam, Musk, Civet, Oak Moss, Vanilla

Perfumista and collector Alexandra Star tells us that Guerlain dedicated Coque d’Or to friend Serge Diaghilev, founder of the Ballets Russes, whose favorite scent was reportedly Guerlain’s Mitsouko.

There is a slight similarity between the two scents in the base of musky chypre notes, providing an “almost ashy mossiness” to the blend. The carnation is very prominent, but it is tempered by the cyclamen with its tobacco note and the dry powdery orris.

Coque d’Or is for me a great improvement over Mitsouko, whose earthiness is a bit too basic for my tastes. It also resembles Sous Le Vent a great deal but is a much denser blend than that airy classic. A critic has labeled Coque d’Or as heavy silk, compared with Mitsouko’s velvet and Vol de Nuit’s fur impressions. It is certainly a masterpiece and rare as hen’s teeth. This is especially true in its unique presentation bottle in cobalt blue and Baccarat crystal, hand painted with gold, and in the shape of a bow, one of the most expensive bottles ever created.

It is surprising to me that this was created for women as it seems very masculine to my nose. The top note of anise, mixed with lavender and bergamot call to mind a fougere, but almost immediately the heart and base notes enter and declare it chypre territory.

This is an extraordinary work of art and all fans of Mitsouko should make it a point to encounter it. Another Guerlain masterpiece.
03rd August, 2018

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