I once owned the original formula by Germaine Monteil in the early 90's. It was divine. I had never smelled anything like it. The bottle I have now, is the Irma Shorell version. I treasure this like gold. That stated, this isn't for everyone. An oriental balsamic fragrance of the dark variety. There are a lot of notes and things going on here. For my nose, I can pick out petitgrain, labdanum, and bergamot on top; jasmine, orange flower, nutmeg, and rose in the middle; musk, patchouli, incense, and benzoin on the base. Overall this is rich and intense. It is dark and brooding. It smolders on the skin. A little goes a long way. Bakir has become hard to find. I am glad I possess my big bottle. I wear it only occasionally. I get high, whenever I apply it.
This is a review for the original Monteil version.
I had purchased the exquisite bottle it came in and loved the resinous remnants at the bottom, so waited until I could afford to buy a bottle on Ebay. One finally came around and I bought it - 1/2 ounce of pure parfum unopened.
I am quite disappointed as the real thing bears no resemblance to the resinous oriental promise its remnants made. This is a fresh green minty scent that is perfectly pleasant, but in no way special to my nose.
I have the Monteil version that predates this. I purchased blind out of curiosity as I enjoyed Ava Luxe's Bakir very much. This is rich and complex. For a brief few moments a hologram of hyacinth and nicotine hover in the air. Then a classier, and more classic rose-carnation-amber roll out. There are nice big waves a floral spiciness. It's fine, it's nice. It's not exactly my thing as I often require that perfume kick me in the butt with some depth or wildness. I may prefer the Ava version if my memory serves. Still nothing wrong with this..quality seems to be there. A 3.5/5 from me?
Originally produced by Germaine Montiel, Irma Shorall's reissue of this fine scent is a laudable reincarnation. I find the Shorell reissue to be fresher and last longer in a balanced way than my old hoarded stock bottle of this nifty elixer.
The galbanum here stands out in a way fans of Lancome's Magie Noire will appreciate. The oakmoss supports in a way which cannot be denied. If you are into assertive dark-resinous-incensious odors that last and boost your spirits throughout the day (or night), this is a strong possibility deserving of your consideration. A classy and definately alpha-woman scent (although I could see the right man pulling this off). Finally, a resurrection of a heritage fragrance not overdone in choking florals!
I adore this fragrance, and use it as my signature scent. I first found it probably in 1974 in some local department store in VA -- fell in love immediately, and then lost it, figuring it was gone forever. I was SO pleased to find that longlostperfumes.net had resurrected it, notwithstanding the label was not the same -- and have been wearing it again ever since ? 2003 or so.