Nuit de Longchamp (1934)
by Lubin

A heady bergamot/ylang-ylang and light floral note is soon saturated by rose, iris and jasmine against an orangey backdrop - a very traditional opening. Later wood and patchouli lead to a base that sees a few aromatic notes added.

On my skin a floral sweetness is evident, but is is never too sweet or cloying. Recent sampling gave me the impression that the quality of the ingredients might have suffered a bit, but it is still a nice scent. I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity. Traditional. And nice. 3.25/5

Nuit de Longchamp in its latest incarnation remains a lovely traditional mixed floral (y’know jasmine, ylang, rose – the usual suspects) with an oakmoss accent laid on a base of powders and resins. It’s a composition the nose recognizes immediately as vintage; perfumes these days eschew in the main such complexity and subtlety. Of course, the danger is that Nuit de Longchamp won’t strike you as particularly original – the ghosts of many a Caron seem to haunt this territory. And perhaps it will also suffer due to its politeness, when compared to the more assertive creations in this category. No doubt, that will be a recommendation for others who were searching for something a bit lower key but with the requisite persistence. Ultimately, while this is a fine enough offering, it doesn’t stand out enough from other perfumes in this style.

So subtle, it practically doesn't exist - lilac, violet, musk, vanilla, cinammon, heliotrope, jasmine, oak moss, cardamom, rose, jasmine, ylang, iris, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, tonka, oak moss, labdanum, tolu - you'd think this would make a great statement, but it does not.

It is so subtle that sillage is nonexistent - you have to be intimate with the wearer in order to encounter it and then it will have blended with the wearer's natural body scent - the purpose of a great perfume???? - yes.

This is one of the subtlest scents ever created - edc does not do it justice - buy pure parfum or nothing.

Perfect signature scent for that assertive yet loving mature lady

Review is for the relaunched EdT.

Wow, what a fragrance! At first sniff, there is so much going on that it will repulse you and draw you in at the same time. First association was with Chanel No. 19 because of the bright green note. But it is immediately clear that there is way more going on here, as a sweetness hangs around to balance the green so neither is dominating. Then there is s strong saopy accord that is immediately reminiscent of Europe...a fine soap shop in the countryside of France.

Then visions of the wearer appear: a mature lady, accomplished professional, well accustomed to running things and big decision making. Her outfit is a well tailored skirt suit, in a shade of grey not too light not too dark. Her blouse is cream colored, which complements the pearls and gold necklace/earring combo. She is accompanied by staff that answer her beck and call, though equally well dressed and accomplished.

This is a gem of a fragrance, one that is for that person who desires to be above the rest, and thrives in being sophisticated and knowing. My only issue with this is that you almost cannot be playful while wearing this. Though there is a sweet personality side to the fragrance, it is sheltered in the serious facade of the wearer. This quality relegates the fragrance to day time office business (I am the boss) use. Perfect for power-brokering females the world over.

Pros: Beautiful, unmistakable, rare, quality, all-in-one
Cons: Might be too serious for some"

A soapy, powdery, balsamic Chypre featuring orange blossom, balsam, oakmoss, and spices. There is some broom in this, which might account for its strangeness. Broom (or Genet) is not a usual note, and it tends to add haylike or tobacco nuances to a fragrance. Along with oakmoss, that would impart an old-fashioned character to this perfume that modern tastes would find challenging.