Féminité du Bois (1992)
by Serge Lutens (originally by Shiseido)

This is gorgeous stuff! It's complex in a way that's hard to describe - just look at the different ways it smells to various reviewers here...

Personally, I like the topnotes best. I smell mostly violets mixed with Serge's signature plum, made sparkly and golden with aldehydes and some sort of yellow, pollen-ish floral background that I can't really place. There's some cumin underneath for grit and balance as well.

Given a few minutes, the base starts making itself known, a mix of suede and buttery sandalwood that provides a rich grounding to the sparkle and high pitch of the topnotes.

On me, the rest of the day is basically a slow fade from the plum/violet top to the buttery leather base, with pleasant different combinations of smells coming and going as the ratio of top to base changes.

I've really enjoyed the current Lutens version of this. I'm also lucky enough to have a sample of the vintage extrait. Honestly, side by side, they're awfully similar, which I didn't expect from the reviews I've read. If anything, the sandalwood in the vintage smells more balanced, like those old-school sandalwoods that smells like opulent, buttery sawdust. The current version has the buttery richness, but has less sawdust, so it comes across as slightly less woody and more suede in the base. That being said, the current version is fantastic - I wouldn't personally bother hunting down and spending ridiculously for the vintage...

A feminine woody, not a woody feminine.

What Roudnitska might have done with Femme, had he converted to minimalism.

***** Shiseido
**** Serge Lutens

A smooth, woody perfume. A touch of spice and sweetness. It makes me think of those melancholy, dreary mid to late autumn days. The leaves are mostly gone from the trees. All that remain are brown and shriveled. The holiday season, not yet here. Anticipation of a long winter looms ahead. This one definitely creates a "mood".

Nude Sitting on a Divan by Amedeo Modigliani 1917

I had a sample of this in the 90s when it was with Shiseido in a dark purple/black bottle. I remember it smelling very strange to the point where I felt it had a texture and taste rather than smell - it reminded me of biting into soft jelly (gel), faintly sweet but not syrupy... Reminded me a bit of authentic Turkish delight. It was something I recoiled from upon sniffing.

Must try the new version....