Perfume Directory

Anthracite pour L'Homme (1991)
by Jacomo

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Anthracite pour L'Homme information

Year of Launch1991
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityDiscontinued
Average Rating
(based on 45 votes)

People and companies

HouseJacomo
Parent CompanySarbec
Parent Company at launchZanimob

About Anthracite pour L'Homme

Anthracite pour L'Homme is a masculine fragrance by Jacomo. The scent was launched in 1991

Anthracite pour L'Homme fragrance notes

Reviews of Anthracite pour L'Homme

Very interesting I can smell the pineapple and cypress from the start to mid and then it turns to a beer like aroma in the drydown.
03rd July, 2019
Anthracite was the first his/hers pair of fragrances released by the left-of-center and off-beat house known as Jacomo. The Deauville-based fragrance house started by Gérard Courtin had utilized perfumer Christian Mathieu since 1980, when he created Jacomo de Jacomo for the house, continuing the ashen vibe of Eau Cendrée (1974) and taking it to the next level. The male counterpart to this new set, Anthracite Pour L'Homme (1991), sees Mathieu swing the pendulum away from the heavy smoke of the vetiver used in the previous two earthen-themed scents in what would end up an unofficial triptych from the house, pushing in a more floral direction and returning to the cloves of the debut masculine. Anthracite Pour L'Homme straddles the men's floral powerhouse category of the late 80's, a long-forgotten and mostly-failed segment of masculines in the face of the aquatic and "fresh fougère" boom, and the older barbershop/classic fougère type made popular by everything from Fougère Royale (1882) up through Drakkar Noir (1982) and Duc de Vervins (1985/1991). Anthracite Pour L'Homme is a close relative to Zino Davidoff (1986) for this reason, and shares a bit of it's "rotten flowers" aesthetic, but is much lighter on the application and balanced with fruits, herbs, spices, and woods. The overall feel of Anthracite is a bit dated in the context of 1991, but a key part of its development would be resurrected in the niche world decades later. Seeing as Jacomo's other previous masculines also seemed out of step with their time (or ahead of their time depending on your view), this is no surprise, and is for the man who is ostensibly of his own style regardless of era. Some people trump this up as some forgotten masterpiece, especially collectors and esteemed critics in the community, but Anthracite doesn't get the hype of other masculine vintages from the era. I think it's good in the same way anything above named is also, and is something of a cult classic of niche quality some higher-end houses probably don't want you knowing ever existed.

Anthracite Pour L'Homme opens with bergamot, tarragon, pepper, cypress, angelica root, galbanum, lavender, blackcurrant and pineapple, just a mishmash of things that are all so carefully counter-balanced as to almost neutralize one another. The opening of Anthracite isn't a calculated "sweet emptiness" like Calvin Klein's cK One (1994), but it's close in the blending department to the territory that Drakkar Noir and the much-later Gres Cabaret Pour Homme (2004) tend to ride in, but is saved from this summation by the odd angelica note. The most startling realization for modern noses is that Creed lifted and paired down most of this opening for use in their blockbuster Aventus (2010), making this somewhat of a precursor. The slightly tangy angelica root note combines with lavender, tarragon, and cypress to give a semi-dry weight past the bergamot and fruity notes, into the middle phase of ylang-ylang, violet, rose, sage and clove. The very feminine smear of florals in the middle is what gives this it's link to the late 80's flowers and civet crowd, differing from the later Creed which moves into more smoke past the top, but it doesn't have the animalic garbanzos of something like Balenciaga Pour Homme (1990) nor is it soured like the aforementioned Davidoff. Instead, we get flowers restrained once again by a counter notes of sage and clove, in the same way much of the top notes play tug-of-war with each other into a dry mix. The base brings in the gorgeous oakmoss, musk, amber, and tonka, making this "Fougère 101" despite the novel opening, once again dried a bit and balanced with sandalwood and cedar so it doesn't get too rich. The overall effect of Anthracite is a less in-your-face earthiness to it, achieved without the heavy vetiver of Jacomo de Jacomo or the rich spice and mulled vetiver swirl of Eau Cendrée. Granted, Anthracite is arguably the most conventionally-constructed male scent in Jacomo's roster, which is probably why it was mostly ignored, and even after decades of discontinuation sells for the price of current designers, even if its anecdotal similarity to Aventus almost 20 years before its release may bring the dudebros around for a sniff. Anthracite is good candidate for a signature scent since it's not challenging besides it's inclusion of florals, and has just enough performance for a work day while making the wearer stand apart from modern ambroxans.

The bottom line is Anthracite is a forgotten member of the late 80's and early 90's flower-lead charge in the masculine realm for reasons that seem just and fair to me. It's not impactful like Givenchy's last-of-the-breed Insensé (1993), but will eventually command stupid prices because it is discontinued, although neither is it something totally and unfairly over-hyped by vintage purists. Anthracite is a decent value for the fan of "pretty" fougère styles that go counter to the more focused and fit-for-fight stuff like Azzaro Pour Homme (1978), and it doesn't lay on heavy spice or lots of powder, vanilla, and tonka like a lot of mid 20th Century barbershop examples. Anthracite Pour L'Homme just stays in that original late 19th century fougère zone, playing close to the origin of the species but with less green. It's drier than most examples on this list, and actually feels like a classier presage to American Crew Classic Fragrance (2000), which gets flack from hob-nobbers for achieving the same task as many designer and niche varieties but with a pared-down note pyramid and budget. Fans of Aventus may also want to explore the DNA running through this, but Anthracite Pour L'Homme is much earthier in the dry down since it is a fougère. If you want something that goes on crisp, light, a bit sweet, then warms up to a flower garden underpinned by moss, musk, and woods, but stays dry most of it's wear time, this is about as perfect for you as could be asked. It's not going to wow anyone familiar with vintage styles, but gets a thumbs up for being steady, good for casual or work use, and niche-level elegant without being too fussy or a super-exclusive privé scent. This may change as the years roll on and supply dries up, but at the rate folks are using this forgotten and unloved Jacomo scent, that isn't going to be for a very, very long time. Anthracite also marks the end of an era for Jacomo, as the future releases would maintain bizarre packaging but also gradually become more conventional in smell through the 2000's and beyond, so there's that too.
09th June, 2018 (last edited: 03rd August, 2019)
Not a bad scent, but for me it is quite dated. The notes are daring, and overall Anthracite yells 1980's to me. I still have a chukker of this in my collection, and if I have that old man nostalgic mood, this one is a nice go-to fragrance.
30th November, 2016
Ok, I'm probably a philistine and an heretic but Anthracite Pour L'Homme is another of those fragrances that connoisseurs rave about and I'm totally tepid towards. A well done (kind of fruity) spicy fougere with no particular distinctive traces. Smells good et all but smell this blind and you won't be able to distinguish it from several other fougeres of the same era.

Meh.
02nd February, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Anthracite pour l'Homme opens with a blast of aromatic lavender spiked bracing greens supported by bitter grapefruit. An odd slightly indolic jasmine led aromatic accord comprised of florals and herbs leads off the early heart development as it melds with powdery makeup-like iris and slightly sweet supporting sandalwood rising from the base. As the composition moves though its heart the awkward florals and powder dissipate though are still detectable, with the composition turning towards an oakmoss laced mix of slightly sweet and dry woods. During the late dry-down the early florals finally vacate as relatively dry amber mixes with slightly sweet sandalwood remnants through the finish. Projection is above average and longevity average at 7-9 hours on skin.

Anthracite pour l'Homme is a bit of an enigma... The aromatic open smells incredible, with the lavender and green accord providing quite the eye opener. After the open things get a bit weird and unsettling as the composition turns just a hair indolic with a jasmine-led floral accord that smells different than anything I have encountered to date, pairing with powdery iris. The combination is definitely strange and not particularly enjoyable. This stage represents somewhat of an inflection point, as the wearer wonders if this oddity is the beginning of what amounts to overall disappointment, or a potential turn around opportunity. Luckily for the wearer the latter scenario is the case, as the powder and indolic florals tone down to a whisper as a fine sandalwood and cedar duo moves in to take control with solid oakmoss support solidifying the turnaround. The late dry-down is a bit uneventful after the roller coaster middle, but the relatively dry amber led finish is quite pleasant, coming off very smooth as it melds perfectly with the remaining natural smelling sandalwood. The bottom line is the sadly discontinued $100 per 100ml bottle on the aftermarket Anthracite pour l'Homme really challenges the senses during its early mid-section, but its aromatic open and late heart seal its place in the winner circle, earning it an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rating and a solid recommendation.
28th September, 2014
Genre: Fougère

Anthracite is a sturdy, spicy fougère that opens on a flourish of lavender, herbs, and bergamot and shifts quickly to a core of clove and floral notes, grounded by sandalwood, oakmoss, and powdery amber. An accord of cloves and woody rose deep in Anthracite’s heart is vaguely anticipatory of Michel Roudnitska’s Noir Epices for Frédéric Malle, released nearly a decade later. The balance achieved between sinewy woody notes and more sumptuous floral notes like rose and ylang-ylang is remarkably well-judged, and the mossy-woody drydown is especially smooth and gratifying.

In terms of composition Anthracite is something of a relic: restrictions on oakmoss and eugenol (clove) and the current shortage of natural sandalwood leave me doubting whether it could be composed again today. Those familiar with the muscular fougères of the 1980s and early 1990s may find that Anthracite breathes some of the same atmosphere as the roughly contemporaneous Lauder for Men and Havana. Anthracite, however, is a far leaner, clearer composition, without the leather and tobacco notes that add weight to many of its contemporaries. In Anthracite’s relative spareness one can perceive faint pre-echoes of Mark Buxton’s later work for Comme des Garçons. The extreme transparency and industrial chic sensibility are not yet apparent, but Anthracite’s clarity of structure and relatively streamlined contours portend the move away from the heavier, baroque elements of 1980s masculine style. Still available online at relatively reasonable prices as of this writing, Anthracite is worth seeking out if a slimmed-down version of the traditional spicy fougère sounds appealing.

An aside: amusingly apropos of the name, the one ounce spray bottle bears a passing resemblance to a charcoal briquette, or perhaps the lumps of coal that naughty children receive in their Christmas stockings.
16th August, 2014 (last edited: 17th August, 2014)

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