Perfume Directory

Blend 30 (1978)
by Dunhill


Blend 30 information

Year of Launch1978
Average Rating
(based on 38 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerRon Winnegrad
PackagingPierre Dinand
Parent CompanyInter Parfums
Parent Company at launchDunhill

About Blend 30

Blend 30 is a masculine fragrance by Dunhill. The scent was launched in 1978 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Ron Winnegrad. The bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand

Blend 30 fragrance notes

Reviews of Blend 30

Perhaps I may revise my take on this one downwards in the future, but I scarcely have room to revise it upwards. My initial reaction to Dunhill Blend 30 might best be described as euphoric.

It's not a heavy or skanky fragrance. It's delicate, refreshing, and acutely herbal, with a spiced cinnamon undertone. Nominally a tobacco scent, I get more of an "herbal tea" impression (I love herbal tea, so, in my book, that's a good impression).

Impeccably made and, from my sampling of vintage masculines, unique. It's a shame it has become so rare!
11th April, 2020
Perfumer Ron Winnegrad is the nose behind Dunhill's long-gone Blend 30 (1978), and his unique talents shine through the composition. Winnegrad is a teacher for most of his time, with a far smaller number of compositions under his belt compared to other perfumes of similar age, and that's because he chooses to pass his craft along rather than utilize it solely himself. Ron has synesthesia, which makes his perfumes that much more interesting because smells ultimately relate to colors for him, which he in turn relates to places or experiences. Such a condition he bends to his will when perfuming, and it earned him recognition early on with Love's Baby Soft (1974), which in turn led him to land commissions for both this and Lagerfeld Cologne/Classic (1978). With Blend 30, he sought to capture the melancholy of the British countryside in autumn, with overcast skies and dank, dense forestry. I'd say he succeeded with that task, and Blend 30 stands tall as both a precursor to Patou Pour Homme (1980) and Pascal Morabito Or Black (1982), but also a template for the legendary Gucci Nobile (1988). Odd that most of these perfumes have also "snuffed it" like Blend 30 has, due to a combination of shifting styles, ingredient unavailability, and IFRA regulations. It would simply be too expensive for the middle-tier designer perfume operation Dunhill runs to reformulate this properly to bear any resemblance to its original form, and as a result Blend 30 has become quite the "unicorn" in the eyes of vintage enthusiasts. Whether or not you feel the scent is worth the veneration really depends on your experiences with it and your tastes overall, but it is a true scarcity due to how long it has been discontinued, so there's no getting around the price unless you're extremely lucky. Blend 30 is somewhere between a leather chypre and an aromatic fougère, relying on oakmoss, tobacco, spice, labdanum, and a tannery leather note to get the point across, sitting somewhere in a nexus of styles. Taken on its own Blend 30 is a master example of 70's green perfumery, but in light of other releases of the day like Ralph Lauren Polo (1978), Azzaro Pour Homme (1978), Caron Yatagan (1976), or Halston Z-14 (1976), it's easy to see how this might have been overlooked much like Ted Lapidus pour Homme (1978) also was.

The opening of Dunhill Blend 30 is a huge blast of galbanum, pine needles, anise, clary sage, and a peppery lavender, softened only a tad by lemon and neroli. Make no mistake, this is not a sweet fragrance, but it has a rounded smoothness thanks to the balancing of sweet elements that keep it from being too bracing on the nose like Acqua di Selva (1949) or Pino Silvestri (1955). The heart of geranium, carnation, sandalwood, and clove is all but impossible in the modern world of IFRA regulations, as geraniol and eugenol are limited and sandalwood of this lucidity is cost-forbidden due to the over-harvesting of Mysore. I'm not saying this smell niche, just "impossible" in the modern world without some really clever aromachemical tinkering, although they managed to bring Pascal Morabito Or Black back from the dead in 2014 and it smells very close to vintage, so anything's possible with enough time and cash. The base here is where things get a bit hard to place and very blended. The isobutyl quinoline leather note familiar to fans of vintage Hermès Bel Ami (1986) is here, but it is blended in with tonka, oakmoss, and musk to make a near-fougère dry down that compares mostly to the aforementioned Pascal Morabito. The very present oakmoss and sandalwood call forth parallels to the future Patou pour Homme, while all the green aromatic goodness strikes a close accord to the final skin feel of Gucci Nobile once you get past Nobile's initial soapy blast. Tobacco is the wild card here that separates Blend 30 from all the 80's masculines it seems to presage, and since Dunhill was still very much in a "leather and tobacco" mode because those were their primary products sold until they got into perfume, it's almost a given that they would appear here. This is no powerhouse, and much like Dior Jules (1980), is considered somewhat on the reserved side for the period. Sillage is not monstrous, and indeed wear time is shorter than you might suspect for an older "men's cologne" perfume, but Blend 30 does sublimely glow off skin for a good 7 hours before becoming a faint whisper. This feels like a fall-through-spring kind of wear to me, and being such a period-specific example of perfumery, might be too "dated" to the trend-conscious to find suitable context, but you can pull it off in cold weather casual situations without much disturbance if you really wanted.

Dunhill Blend 30 is a good collector's piece for the affluent vintage collector that would rather drop hundreds on survivor bottles of Chaps Ralph Lauren (1979) than on bottles of anything Roja Dove or Areej le Dore puts out, and also represents a bit of a glimpse into the progression from the soapy green masculines of Paco Rabanne pour Homme (1973) at the early end of the decade, to the leathery, musky, jockstrap-in-a-bottle of the early 1980's. Blend 30 falls just shy of being truly animalic because it has everything but castoreum or civet to give it that push from assertive into outright aggressive, so it comes right up to the line of being surly without ever actually losing poise and crossing it, showing Ron Winnegrad was capable of giving Dunhill their feeling of classic British restraint in spite of the heady cocktail itself. I can't really recommend one fragrance that comes closest to what Blend 30 shows off, but if you pick up a bottle of Or Black and layered it with Avon Leather (1966), you'd get really close and not put yourself out too much money. If soaring prices don't feel beyond your means, and dwindling sales listings do not seem daunting to you, this may be worth the hunt, as it represents something you otherwise won't be able to get outside of other similar discontinued gems that also carry stiff premiums. Simply put, this is a well-crafted and very lively aromatic representing an extinct style with extinct ingredients, and real museum-grade stuff that falls just short of being beautiful due to the fact that it isn't terribly unique in the greater scheme of what was goin' round in the time it was being made. Blend 30 is a vivaciously green and aromatic scent capable of painting a picture in your mind thanks to its unique perfumer, and for that I can respect the fervor of its die-hard fans. I may not be in the market to sacrifice my firstborn to finding a bottle, but among vintage "unicorns", Dunhill Blend 30 stands mightily tall. Thumbs up.
09th December, 2019
Dark green old school fragrance, although its green-herbal aspect is eclipsed by a thick "leathery-tobaccoey-oakmossy" accord. At the same time It gives stregth to the scent, It implies in a too much dated smoky-powdery smell. The resulting combination is a bitter herbal green smell surrounded by a smoky-powdery cloud. If you like green old school fragrances, there are better options like Francesco Smalto, Tsar, Polo, Bogart signature etc.
05th December, 2018
Blend 30 doesn't quite work for me, and this neutral is more likely to lean thumbs down than thumbs up. It does smell like Patou Pour Homme in the opening, which is the best part, but then it smells like a poor version of Patou Pour Homme, and then not at all like it, and instead smells greenish, in a way I never liked, and that smells forced and artificial. Coinciding with this off-putting green note, it smells like a cinnamon roll, which is a combination that doesn't work for me; like a tainted cinnamon roll.
15th May, 2018
Talk about melancholy and infinite sadness... it will hurt my very essence when my stash runs dry. Until then, I'll enjoy what I've got.

Think vintage Azzaro pH and supplant the anise with a subtle fruity/tobac element. If you like those, find some Charles Jourdan un Homme too.

Still wishin' someone will damn those damn regulatory torpedoes and start making them like this one again. Aromatic fougere nonpareil!
14th December, 2017
Tobacco, leather, oakmoss.

Blend 30 is driven by a tobacco-moss accord that has a leathery aspect. There are aromatics, but they are blended densely to contribute to this tobacco note. There are florals, but only to lend balance - rather than dandification. The fragrance is dry, and has a bitter green aspect from the oakmoss. There is a hint of soft, smoky woods in the later phases.

Blend 30 stands out for its quality, excellent composition, and how the tobacco accord is carefully integrated with the oakmoss to create a gritty but grounded accord with a wonderful retro feel. The other aspect is that any citrus, floral, or herbal direction is almost missing, as it stays close to its structure and avoids any distraction. This, in a sense, is quite focussed.

Most importantly, Blend 30 is an absolute pleasure to wear and stands out even among a fine selection of vintage fragrances for its unique character. Projection is moderate but persistent, and duration is good at around six to seven hours based on 4-5 sprays. Very old world and gentlemanly - I can imagine this being an ideal fragrance after a late night shave followed by a drink of Scotch.

This is clearly as good as anything Dunhill has ever put out, and its discontinuation is a source of lament.

04th May, 2017

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