Perfume Directory

Homme de Grès (1996)
by Grès


Homme de Grès information

Year of Launch1996
Average Rating
(based on 69 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerGérard Anthony
Parent CompanyDenz > Art & Fragrance
Parent Company at launchAltus

About Homme de Grès

Homme de Grès is a masculine fragrance by Grès. The scent was launched in 1996 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Gérard Anthony

Homme de Grès fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Homme de Grès

Homme de Grès (1996) is a simple but satisfying citrus chypre in a style that became popular with men in place of the barbershop fougère (or "fern") sometime in the mid 20th century, up until the fougère became popular again thanks to the success of scents like Brut by Fabergé (1964), Speidel British Sterling (1965), and Avon Wild Country (1967). Some of you may be saying "but the date for Homme de Grès is 1996", and then wondering if implications of that means this scent was out-of-step with the times, and you would be correct in so doing. Homme de Grès is an odd one for sure, a straight-up-and-down citrus chypre (or "cypress") made in a style not common since Yves Saint Laurent made the their original Yves Saint Laurent pour Homme (1971) as a bookend of sorts, but it wasn't the only citrus chypre released after the halcyon days had gone, as Italian houses like Armani or Gianfranco Ferré also had masculine citrus chypres into the 80's. What makes Homme de Grès stranger than them is the fact you could still get away with a fairly straigtforward chypre in the 80's thanks to the "wild west" nature of the market at the time, but by the mid-90's we were already seeing abstract freshness and a desire for synthetic minimalism take hold, so more aesthetically "natural" styles like this were too stodgy and mature. Still, I can see the logic behind reviving the citrus chypre as a simple yet elegant solution to the public demand for fresher fragrances, since the very nature of a basic chypre with its bright bergamot, crisp oakmoss, and warm labdabum seems almost a perfect fit without the need for fancy molecules or blue dyes.

The opening of Homme de Grès is straight out of the Capucci pour Homme (1967) and Revlon Charlie (1973) playbook; masculine and feminine market unofficial siblings that present much the same idea with a bit of tasteful modulation for their target markets, introducing themselves with a sharp bergamot oil opening, offer something a bit like a dried fruit (juicier in the Revlon), and propelled by green notes. Galbanum is the name of the particular green player in them and so the same proves true here, but basil also joins the opening, adding a deeper bitter quality that travels through to the heart. Labdanum joins a dry indolic jasmine and a lactonic peach note left over from the opening with a bit of benzoin, before lavender seeps in and gives Homme de Grès another unique twist. The lavender makes it straddle chypre and fougère lines a little, but the former wins out as notes of oakmoss, sandalwood, costus, and a bit of isobutyl quinoline that helps add a leathery touch like in Capucci pour homme. Thanks to the huge dose of bitter greens and labdanum, Homme de Grès also crosses paths with the early 80's Yves Saint Laurent pour Homme Haute Concentration (1983) flanker. All told, you get a simple and totally unsweetened academic cypress accord, like the name "chypre" suggests for those unfamiliar with perfume genres, marrying bright herbal citrus with woods and mosses to make a clean but serious scent profile that chooses an obvious masculinity over the usual understatements of the 90's decade. Wear time is good at over 7 hours and pure unfettered chypre exercises feel very summery to me, but wear Homme de Grès anytime you have a hankering for it except in maybe a club or romantic setting.

Homme de Grès was absolutely crushed as expected by stuff like Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Gorgio Armani (1996) and Curve for Men by Liz Claiborne (1996), both scents that foreshadowed the future of the masculine perfume market, and likely the last thing anyone wanted in 1996; it shows by just how much Homme de Grès stayed in the market long after the house pulled the plug on the stuff, only recently being something you'd have to go in the aftermarket to find. Grès perfumer Gérard Anthony also created the legendary Azzaro pour Homme (1978), alongside a few other favorites among vintage fans, so the way this turned out comes to no real surprise knowing who made it. Grès also wasn't the only house thinking traditional citrus and oakmoss fragrances were going to be a viable fresh option in the 90's, because the esteemed luxury house of Creed would do a strikingly similar fragrance called Royal Water (1997) the very next year, with more florals, more finesse, and the house ambergris note which makes it smell "expensive". In short, Homme de Grès is a very unlikely classic made in a time when classic design was not appreciated, representing a genuine "vintage-smelling" experience for someone looking to delve into the past but afraid of diving into deeper vintage waters to do it. Most Grès perfumes seem either way ahead of the curve or way behind it anyway, so this quirky little house just re-asserts itself as such yet again with this perfume, being one of the last truly oakmoss-focused masculines in this style before IFRA closed the door on the material partially in 2001, then even further in 2011. The fact Homme de Grès is from 1996 and not 1966 or 1946 makes it all the more delightful to me, but I'm weird. Thumbs up.
10th May, 2020
Wondering, is Homme de Grès a better fresh leather variant of Eau Sauvage than the actual flanker Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir itself?

28th May, 2019
Stardate 20170831:

I wish I knew what the main accord is in this. It is shared by Capucci PH (vintage) and is the main "leather" accord of Burberrys for Men (1st version 80s)
Artemesia? Galbanum? Vetiver? Labdanum?Costus? or a mixture of some of them?
This accord, which many call leather, is not something I like. I find it too dry. Burberrys for Men, while a masterpiece,is not in my top 20.

Homme De Gres (and Capucci too) have solved this problem by adding citrus, herbal and amber elements to the composition. The dryness has been balanced out.

It is still available online for $40 and you should get it before inventory runs out.
31st August, 2017
Now this fragrance harks back to another time in structure and is nothing like what you would find on the shelves today. No sugary sweetness here!

After a few sprays upon the skin the scent smells quite harsh with bitter herbal lemony citrus notes. But the beauty of this fragrance is how in opens up and takes you on a olfactory journey. Wait twenty minutes and the scent starts to unfurl and soften with the introduction of lavender and jasmine floral notes. This starts to make the scent more aromatic as slowly the bitter herbal citrus melds with the lavender and floral notes on a underlying bed of leather.

Eventually the herbal mossy lemony citrus starts to fade and the floral jasmine notes start to come through more and the scent starts to become more woody. So you can smell a lovely herbal floral woody scent on a leathery base. Quite beautiful (reminds me a bit of Carons third man scent).

The scent is beautifully crafted in how the different notes are introduced and then meld together quite beautiful. Every-time you sniff the scent you are picking up a new different aspect. I am impressed how all these different notes all come together to create a alluring beautiful scent.

I get several hours of longevity and the basenotes seem to linger on the skin for ages where modern fragrances they just seem to disappear.
07th August, 2017
In 1923 Roger and Gallet came up with a wonderful scent, Le Jade, which matched lime (the green in the clever name) with oak moss, providing a bracing scent far more masculine than feminine, but looking forward to such oak moss dominated perfumes as Bandit and Femme.

Gres took the oak moss from their classic Cabochard, and substituting lemon and bergamot for the lime, created their ultra-sophisticated and masculine Homme de Gres in the mid-1990s.

Homme is quite simple, but tres bracing and uplifting. Perfect for summer wear, either office or sport, and a good choice to splash on for early evening wear. A winner and sadly discontinued. You can still find it on Ebay. Worth a buy.
21st March, 2017
A citrusy-herbal-woody fragrance. Excellent in my mind! It smells wonderful (mostly masculine I would say). It is 'fresh' and at the same time provides body to the scent. It also changes a bit over time, starting citrusy, continuing into herbal with tarragon...perhaps.. and then into woody territory. Reminds me of some Guerlain, but still distinct. It has quite good sillage and last for a long time.
15th September, 2015

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