Well, this is certainly an interesting fragrance. Normally, I try to be a "Bottom Line Up Front" (BLUF) kind of guy with my overall impression of a fragrance, but I'm going to make an exception with this one. I have to admit that I don't recall having ever tried something quite like this one.
I gave this a test run last night, a few hours before hitting the rack, and am giving it a full wear today (it's almost 2 hours since I applied it, as of now).
Last night, upon initial application, my first thought was: "this was marketed as a men's fragrance?" I mean, based on first impression, I thought this one was crossing the line for me. But I never form an initial opinion on a fragrance until at least the 1 hour mark. Fortunately, it was at about the 20 or 30 minute mark when this started to become something that might interest me.
First off, the star of the show is the rose. We've all heard Gertrude Stein's, "Rose is a rose is a rose"; but regarding Iquitos, is it? This rose sent is not the "jammy" kind, nor a singular rose bud, rather it is thick, and "syrup-ie". I've read some reviews that regard it as honey, and I can agree with that, but I still think of it more like syrup (in a good way). There's a green note(s) that cuts through nicely (not sure what that is, but I like it), and a mix of fruits that, to me, gives off a cherry impression (sort of reminded me briefly of a Luden's cherry cough drop mixed in with a bowl of Fruity Pebbles cereal). But it so happened that my 11 year old daughter just walked by, and I asked her what she thought, and she said, "grape" (and she liked it - LOL). Yeh, I can see that too, as I think of Dunhill Icon as "grape soda", but back to Iquitos. There are many other notes blended in this fragrance that makes it intriguing. It settles with what I thought was a mossy dry down, but I don't see moss listed in the note pyramid.
How's the longevity/projection and occasion for wear? This is one to be extremely careful not to overspray - and I mean be really attentive. Longevity is hard to say specifically, because I think one can become anosmic with this to a certain extent - I believe I did last night, and have begun to now after a couple of hours, but I still can detect it for sure. Projection is huge the first 30 minutes! Flashback to my daughter walking by - she said she could smell it all the way down from a few rooms away in the house! But it does start to mellow out after about an hour - at least that's what it seems to me. And in terms of occasion? This is definitely not for the office. And not for daytime wear in general if one is going to be physically active - but if it's a day off, and at home relaxing, then yes indeed. As a matter of fact, that's my situation today, and it's rainy/cloudy/humid in the low 70's where I am and I'm finding that Iquitos is perfect for this kind of weather. And I was going to say that this is best for evening and formal occasions, but I can't really say that - this one doesn't seem to really be appropriate for anything other than personal enjoyment on a lazy day at home (for me, that is).
Now, back to the bottom line (albeit not up front today). Do I like this enough to pursue a full bottle at the high price that it commands? No, not really. This one is not really in my "wheelhouse", but I do like it for sure as I find it intriguing, and would enjoy adding it to my collection, but it's lack of versatility, with the high price of admission, makes this something that I can live without - for now. Perhaps if I win the lottery one day, I'll seek it out as a guilty pleasure.
UPDATE: At about the 4 hour mark, a nice subtle leather note emerged to mingle in the mix. I'm starting to like this fragrance more as time is marching on. I'm glad that I have several more wearings left in my sample. I might find that I may need to save up for this after all. This fragrance is "Fascinating!" to quote Mr. Spock.
Iquitos goes on with a honeyed rose and a hint of supporting mandarin orange before quickly moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the rose takes over as the focus with the honeyed aspect receding though still quite present, revealing its slightly powdery facet as a moderately animalic musk and civet duo join fine white floral jasmine and mossy green oakmoss from the base providing significant support. During the late dry-down the animalics and rose all but vacate, leaving remnants of the now dry honey to join with a slightly sweet amber and sandalwood tandem with leather support through the finish. Projection is very good, as is longevity at around 11-12 hours on skin.
As most masculines from the 80s were winners, I guess it shouldn't be a great surprise that Iquitos is another fine example of the period's amazing output. The composition is a animalic honeyed rose at its core, but the oakmoss within adds an element to the composition that just couldn't be replicated easily in today's IFRA regulated world, making one appreciate just how good things were back then. While it has been quite a while since I have worn it, for some reason I feel like there is a similarity to Oscar de la Renta pour Lui here, and if so, that is far from a bad thing. Similar or not, Iquitos smells superb regardless. The bottom line is the discontinued $340 per 100 ml bottle on the aftermarket Iquitos may not prove the best smelling masculine of the great 80s, but that title is not necessary to still claim an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation to vintage perfume collectors.
14th September, 2020 (last edited: 13th September, 2020)
I get Doll's head and rose scented carpet powder cleaner...but in a really really good way!
The two bad reviews on here "cheap and vulgar" "a demon's elixir" and I can see that. It also smells awesome and really bad for you, like nothing else I own, I can feel it f***ing with my hormonal system and dna.
It's giving me serious 80's flashbacks as a masculine counterpart to the big roses (Diva, Coco etc..) my five fabulous aunties would baths in at the time.
I love it and wear it a lot, backed it up.
23rd October, 2018 (last edited: 30th May, 2020)
Stardate 20180123:
This stuff is potent. BE careful. Seems benign but 4 sprays today and the whole office is noticing. Strange cause reviews said this has poor performance. My guess is this is one of those which gets anosmic on people very soon.
The fragrance is dark and floral. Like indian rose incense. The smell of incense stick before you burn them. The smell of box that is left behind.
Has a leathery aspect to it and some aldehydes. Unlike most roses, it is not sweet.
A very unique fragrance and deserves the hype. Just not my cup of tea.
Many times while utilizing the advanced search option on this site I have been offered Iquitos as a suggestion. In finally trying it I immediately realize why.
As I am sure most regulars of this site are dead tired of hearing, I am a diehard lover of vintage Minotaure, with its untouchable bright orange and aldehyde opening, mingled with beautiful rose and indolic jasmine, backed by quiet but sturdy leather and sandalwood. So what does Iquitos have to do with Minotaure, then?
Everything.
The orange, jasmine, leather, rose, and most importantly to me, the beautiful, sparkling aldehydes (which were most shamefully ripped from the reissued Minotaure after its acquisition) are all here, just in very different proportions. And there is wormwood a la Tenere, the only other thing I would have added to Picasso's release (other than added strength). The rose smells dark and tacky, as experienced in Azzaro's Acteur, and the woods are deeper, darker and more prominent in the late stages. While Minotaure balances the airy and Mediterranean with the slightly dirty, Iquitos is a more hairy-chested, 'indoor tannery' version.
This fragrance didn't stick around long because, as some have mentioned before, it was wildly at odds with the taste of the time, but this is precisely the type of scent I keep searching for - the Hyper-masculine-effiminate-dandyboy floral. Yes, that's an utter paradox, and very much the reason I can't remain in love with most things I own. But once in a long while, as I am crawling over the cusp of indifference, I find something like this, and my flame is renewed for another period of fervor.
Your silly five star rating limit can eat a bug.
Seven stars out of five.