Perfume Directory

Jules (1980)
by Christian Dior


Jules information

Year of Launch1980
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 202 votes)

People and companies

HouseChristian Dior
PerfumerJean Martel
Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton
Parent Company at launchMoet Hennessy

About Jules

Contains notes of Black Pepper and Russian Leather. This hard to find woody scent by Dior was launched in 1980

Reviews of Jules

Just received my new flacon of JULES in the modern/current EDT, directly from DIOR online.

The smell is gorgeous, and has nothing whatsoever to do with the original 1980 scent. (Just sayin').

The current scent opens with brilliant, sparkling aldehydes, a faux-galbanum stemminess, laced with a vivid, nose-clearing aromatic fir, and a geranium-like bracken of damascones.

Then a faint whisper of something civet-like, or at least animalic, makes its presence known. Everything is made cool by an omnipresent refreshing menthol sheen. Faint soupçons of tanning tar peer tastefully through the medicinal haze, laced with-- yes, a curious, unexpected floral note.

And that's it. After these notes, it's all over but the shoutin', as we say in Texas.

It is all exceptionally elegant, extremely refined, exquisitely tasteful. Neither dated, nor bleeding-edge hip-- just very French, streamlined and forest-y. And it resembles the 1980's formula in no way at all (I know because I went through several flacons of the old stuff circa 1988-1992) Leans masculine, but there's no reason in the world a woman couldn't use it, if she loves cooling, medicinal aromatic notes. The whole effect is one of refinement, sly suaveté, nothing "chunky" or "men's after-shave-y" going on. Utterly devoid of sweetness, yet never arid, desert-y or sterile. Obviously a scent formulated by an expert nose.

With time, I may grow to love it. Right now I'm kinda bowled over that it bears the name of an old scent I loved... even has the exact same box design and logo... but no longer smells like. As another reviewer here correctly observes, the 1980's original had a certain warmth and sweetness that this formula lacks. This number is nothing like YSL KOUROS, I must say.

P.S. The fabulous René Gruau illustrations for JULES are a direct allusion, I'd say, to the cabaret posters of Toulouse-Lautrec for the chanteur, Aristide Bruant.
14th September, 2020
Jules smells to me like an even mixture of Leonard Pour Homme, Gambler by Jovan, and Givenchy gentleman, in roughly a 3/2/1 parts ratio. So much spicy and indolic flower usage that, when paired with all that leather, smells of cinnamon. The basil and laurel together clearly state "made in the 80's". The galbanum and cumin play a round of "fresh cop, dirty cop." There is quite a lot going on, but it is a comparatively quiet scent with more of a come-hither vibe than a mating call. Sure, I wish it had a little more rev to its engine but the smell itself is enjoyable enough to forgive it.
07th August, 2019
Be prepared, it's a negative review but hey, we need negative reviews for a reason don't we?!

I grabbed a 9ml vintage mini of this to see what Jules is all about.

I love 80's scents but this is something that I'll 'never' wear. The reason being is that Jules is an incredibly heavy oakmoss/musky scent that reminds me strongly of Bijan Men and Fendi Uomo in it's dry down. I dislike both of those scents highly that I will firmly say that I kind of hate with a passion. They are nauseatingly strong with atrociously horrible, offensive and unnecessarily long lasting dry downs.

Opening and heart notes are beautiful until the very strong musk and oakmoss takes over with a little leather underneath that lasts forever on the skin. That's basically all I get after 8 hours or so. After the 8 hours I was really getting sick and tired of smelling this thick and musky concoction emanating from my skin. I felt like I was wearing an 80's perfume for Women. Thank God from past experiences I had initially given this a proper wearing in the safety of my own home away from prying noses.

To me, this dry down leaves me with the impression of an old lady perfume. It's that really musky cloud of oakmoss, flowers and musk that surrounds the wearer where it's that kind of musk that sucks the air right out of your lungs. Jules also has a considerable amount of sillage and projection that never seems to let up. This is a very strong scent for only being a 90° denatured alcohol content.

Handsome box and flacon but the end result in my opinion is an overly dated scent for Men that's is a product of it's time. Jules smells like a 70's creation. I really dislike the dry down on this which is the whole point of wearing a perfume anyways, and as mentioned before, it lasts far too long that survives showers... easily way past 24+ hours. I think this is the reason that original composition flacons are readily available on eBay, because this is honestly not that good of a scent.

By wearing this out in public, no one will ever know that this is a vintage Christian Dior scent. It will come across as a harsh, repelling and huge masculine 80's perfume that will be right at home on a 70 year old man. I'm 38 years old and couldn't pull this even if I wanted to, but I do not in any way shape, or form. My opinion would be to pick up a vintage mini of this, do not blind buy a full flacon of Jules! After that first wearing, you'll be kicking yourself in the ass.
24th March, 2019 (last edited: 28th March, 2019)
Fine fragrance equivalent of the smell they add to new cars.

27th November, 2018
Jules in an exercise in balance, which itself is a rare thing coming from a 70's/80's cusp fragrance. It marries the green galbanum and cyclamen blast of several perfumes both masculine and feminine from the early 70's. It would not be out of place to compare Jules alongside Estée Lauder's Azurée (1969) or Alliage (1972), which themselves formed the basis of the Estée Lauder by-way-of-Aramis masculines Devin (1978) and Aramis 900 (1973) respectively. Likewise, Jules also bears some resemblance to Chanel No. 19 (1971), but with less-prominent rose, and Jacomo Silences (1978) in it's bitter opening, with slightly indolic flowers throughout setting it apart from the Jacomo's starkness. Jules is an interesting character for a masculine staking it's claim amidst outgoing macho-man aromatics and incoming shrill displays of virility that were 80's powerhouses. This scent is confident, strong, but overall more quiet than expected, without avalanches of silliage, being a good compliment to a wardrobe stocked with other aromatic leathers like Bogart Eau de Toilette Pour Homme (1975) and Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme (1978). It has the power of something like Chaps Ralph Lauren (1979) or Ted Lapidus Pour Homme (1978) but none of the swagger or loudness. Even a name like "Jules" lends an unassuming air that alludes to it's mystery, and likely the perceived mystery of it's wearer too, who is suggested to let his actions speak louder than his words by his choice of subtle fragrance. Another comparison would be to look at this as a much dialed-down precursor to Chanel Antaeus (1981) which was a year away. Overall, with so many comparisons that are all over the map, it's appropriate to say that Jules just sits squarely in the middle between bitter greens, florals, warm woods, and leather scents that were dotting the 70's landscape for both sexes, but at the verge of the change-over to the gaudy Technicolor jazz-hands that was the following decade. Most interesting indeed.

The 70's wasn't without it's understated masculines, as anyone who owns Balenciaga Ho Hang (1971) or Un Homme Charles Jourdan (1979) will tell you, but it's a far rarer breed, if these obscure book-ending masculines didn't already imply that, which Jules could be counted among it if had come out a little earlier. The scent is Dior's second masculine creation, and the obvious success of the Roudnitska-composed Eau Sauvage (1966) didn't necessitate the need for an immediate sequel, but by 1980, it had been long enough. Dior probably didn't want to go in the same light and fresh direction that Eau Sauvage had taken, since male-oriented chypres were brooding and dark things by the 70's, and aromatic fougères were the rage, so it's likely that Dior sat out through the 70's because the trends in men's fragrance probably didn't suit them. Jules does feel like something that began development in the 70's, but just had the unfortunate luck of being born too late to really hit home with it's target audience, which may also explain it's relative obscurity in comparison to other Dior masculines that followed. Jean Martel was brought in to make Jules, and his previous masculine work, the seminal Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973) slightly reflects here in Jules, since this uses green notes, rose, and fougère-like base elements, but doesn't redefine the barbershop like his erstwhile creation. Jules foregoes the soap of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and takes a dryer chypre-like finish, with Russian Leather forming the backbone. On top of this leather note is galbanum, artemesia, lavender, cumin, bergamot, a middle of jasmine, cedar, sandalwood, rose, and basil, plus complimenting base notes of oakmoss, amber, civet, musk, and black pepper. It's all so ridiculously well-blended that if I didn't have a Dior-created note pyramid to stare at, I wouldn't have guessed half of this stuff. The animalic base is very restrained here, and the bitter greens in the top carry more weight than the rest of the scent, so despite being categorized as a masculine leather, I see this more as a green leather floral chypre like the aforementioned feminine fragrances and even a slight toss back to Miss Dior (Original 1947), just "manned up" with a bit of tweaking. Sorry guys, your "man's man" scent is really just re-purposed ideas from women's perfume of a bygone era, which doesn't bother me at all since I wear those too.

Considering this released in the same year as Jacques Bogart One Man Show and Jacomo de Jacomo (both 1980), it's kind of a miracle something this dapper made it out the gate at all. Leather fans are likely to enjoy Jules, and green fans are also likely to enjoy Jules, but folks sensitive to grassy galbanum won't dig this so much, as it's unforgiving in that area. Jules won't beat you in the head as mentioned, but it's a steady, quiet hum that lasts a good bit of the day, with the leather and other base notes just sneaking up for warmth as it dries down, but that grass never fades completely. Jules is the kind of thing that modern guys who are used to the sweetness of current masculine tropes will likely fail to understand, and probably dislike. Guys only familiar with Dior Fahreheit (1988) or Dior Homme (2005) might be alienated by the smell of Jules, but anyone who's tried Christian Dior Leather Oud (2010) has already smelled stiffer leather than this. Niche perfume fans are likely familiar with the old-school "fine perfumery" ideas on display here since a lot of their favorite niche perfumers still employ them, and anyone that loves a scent which wears it's inspirations on it's sleeve will also find Jules charming. That's really what Jules is all about: being charming, and nothing more. Letting others start the conversation, but making sure it ends memorably is the quirk of Jules. It's unmistakably and maybe irritatingly masculine to the mainstream nose, but those with a broader perspective see what's really going on here. Dior relaunched this in 2016 but mainly for the Eastern Europe market where dry and leathery scents are still marketable, likely because of the generally colder climate, so US folks will pay a bit of a premium where it shows up in the gray market or at perfume discounters who've imported it, but it's not discontinued. Vintage focuses more on the leather and oakmoss, while new versions omit most of the oakmoss and push more for a greener direction, but all forms are good for fans of the style. It is one of those rare leathers that passes in summer because of the immense green top, but it's still no casual fragrance, so don't try it at the office.
06th May, 2018
Jules is one that straddles the fougere and chypre categories. It's green to the extreme in a high-pitched, bitter, twiggy manner. Galbanum? Certainly! Cyclamen? I don't know but perhaps it's responsible for Jules possessing such a unique smell. Big mossy leather and cedarwood completes the scene.

Jewels for lumberjacks... or, at least, that little bit of lumberjack essence wired into a lot of us!

Older the better with this old school, though all pre-IFRA43 are A-OK by me. A personal top-ten I think, would say, and without any doubt have obviously just wrote.
17th January, 2018

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