Léonard pour Homme (original) (1980)
by Léonard

Opening is harsh like Maxim's. It takes a turn to the dry Herbal versus the slight fruit in the Maxim's.
It becomes a much more distinctive Carnation
Camphour, Cinnamon Bark, Dry Cedar melange.
Leathery and Dry, Dry, Dry. Slight powdered soapiness.
I really don't identify the Castoreum or Animalic at first, but later it offers a little growl.
Probably a little parching for most.
The overall effect is like Amouage Memoir Man for me.
Dark and Brown in comparison to the Dark and green of the Amouage.
I like it! My Girl says "Come to Bed"

Leonard is a shining example of masculine leathers from the mid 70's to late 80's. It smells a little like Halston's Z-14, a little like Derby and VC&A Pour Homme, a bit of Jovan Gambler Musk, and with a spot of Furyo and a hint of Burberrys for Men. It is dry yet oily, spicy but smooth, green-brown-orange, like old shag carpets, and very much a product of its time, but still smells wonderful today. You won't fool anyone into thinking you're wearing a new release with this on, but it's not overbearingly macho like many old 'powerhouses' were. I think this stuff is lovely.

Edit: In my haste I forgot to mention my favorite aspect of this scent, which is a beautifully done carnation, which (to me) is the star of this show. Don't let anyone tell you that men can't wear pink or wear floral fragrance. Colors and plant odors don't have genders. Leonard comes on strong but is really quite gentle, and is surprisingly lovely in Summer when applied sparsely and lightly.

Not my favorite. The incense and artemisia kills this one for me.
Too dry for my taste.

Old fashioned leather fougère.

***

One of the great 1980s Fougères

(The original)

A sharp and smoky blast of bergamot, lavender and petitgrain explodes in my face, with an oily character. Basil and thyme add a fiery herbal-vegetal note that is enforced in the drydown by the addition patchouli, jasmine and and unusual carrot-twist. Very early in the drydown a harsh, classic oak moss of supreme quality starts to dominate and does so until the end. Nonetheless the development continues with castoreum and labdanum merging into a dark leathery note. And the oakmoss continues it's marvelous work as the backbone throughout. This is a classic, traditional, harsh, sharp, strong and confident chypre of the highest quality, complex in composition but linear in it's core character; an archetypical fougère, less shrill and bright than Gucci Nobile with darker notes in the mellowed base. It is made for autumn. Silage and projection: excellent. Longevity: it fades out - after fifteen hours on my skin - just splendid!

Pros: Silage and longevity
Cons: