Perfume Directory

Open (1985)
by Roger & Gallet

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Open information

Year of Launch1985
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 93 votes)

People and companies

HouseRoger & Gallet
Parent CompanyL'Oréal Group > YSL Beaute
Parent Company at launchElf Aquitaine > Sanofi Beauté

About Open

Open is a masculine fragrance by Roger & Gallet. The scent was launched in 1985

Open fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Open

SMELL 'EM WHO'S BOSS! 

Roger & Gallet OPEN belongs not only in the Cheapie Hall of Fame ($19 bucks!), but also as an honorable mention in the 80's masculine swagger tobacco scents hall. 

Men's fragrance aficionados of stalwarts Polo, Quorum, Jacomo de Jacomo, and Tsar will revel in OPEN so wear with confidence!

4.5 stars. 
30th September, 2020
The intro is messy and a bit weird, sharp and sour - and somehow off balance. And when it settles down, Open becomes a thick and powerhouse fougére - not open at all.
It generally gets better over time, but the sharp overtone doesn't go away and so, in my opinion, it just stays bad.
Maybe this bottle had been hanging around in the pharmacy too long but I suspect this is a case of You Are what You Is : cheap fragrance = Cheap Fragrance.

2*

FB
12th May, 2020 (last edited: 04th June, 2020)
A creamy limoncello-style Amalfi lemon introduces this soapy fougere, which is anchored by a tremendously realistic, dirty cigar tobacco note. Even in present-day form, it all smells very well put-together in a way that its peers from the time don't.

Comparisons to Jacomo de Jacomo and Havana are justified, though I'll confess I find it a touch less satisfying than either (it lacks the green edge of vintage Jacomo and the complexity of Havana), but that tobacco note is certainly one of the truest tobacco notes I've ever encountered.
21st March, 2020


This fragrance has a base of lavender combined with a warm and smooth duo of amber and nutmeg. This is a spicy and kind of sweet soap smell that makes me think of Pears Original Soap (the transparent deep orange bar).As the soap mellows I get a blurry green structure of pine and moss or herbs with the tobacco present.

Open reminds me a lot of Quorum. But it's drier from not having any citrus in comparison to said fragrance. The spice in it also gives something old-fashioned about it that makes it seem like it predated Quorum actually. 2-3 sprays and 10-12 hours of moderate projection...this is obviously still powerhouse strength.

27th November, 2019 (last edited: 26th January, 2020)
Roger & Gallet are perhaps best known as the pair who in 1862 bought the Paris perfume factory and business away from Jean-Marie Joseph Farina, great-great grandnephew of Giovanni Maria Farina, inventor of Eau de Cologne. In another lawsuit claiming use of the Farina family name (the first coming from Wilheim Mülhens of 4711 fame), Roger & Gallet successfully walked away with the Jean-Marie Farina name but not the whole shebang, producing his line of colognes henceforth. Fast forward about a century or so and the Roger & Gallet brand remains a French house nearly on the same level of antiquity as Guerlain, but also one that moved forward with modern designs far sooner. R&G (as they're known by fans) entered the 80's male powerhouse segment strongly with L'Homme (1982), being a soapy aromatic fougère like Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973) but with a more intense herbal kick; the stuff wasn't groundbreaking, but solid nonetheless. Open (1985), by contrast, headed in a new direction with a smoky vetiver opening and tobacco undertones pinned by bergamot, lavender, and patchouli. People versed in vintage masculines compare Open to Jacomo de Jacomo (1980), but I find it more in line with the later Aramis Havana (1993), just with a heavier vetiver overlay and less booze; Open is less Cuba Libre and more Cohiba. Of particular interest is the odd bottle with plastic shoulder and off-center spray cap, making this an easy dumb grab because of how much it stands out in a wardrobe of mostly symmetrical bottles.

Open um... well... er... opens with that smoky vetiver right away but the tobacco in the base doesn't take too long to show thanks to it's synergy with the bergamot top. Amalfi lemon from L'Homme makes a return as well, and lavender keeps it all from being too spiky. Sage, thyme, and a small boozy note make an appearance in the middle, which when combined with the vetiver and tobacco in base, set up the personality of the wear through much of it's duration. Some also cite Francesco Smalto Pour Homme (1987) as a close parable, but that one lacks the tobacco and goes into far soapier and more lavender-forward directions, so I don't see much resemblance. The base is obviously tobacco, patchouli, and vetiver, but it's a pipe tobacco more similar to Ted Lapidus Pour Homme (1978) than Aramis Havana, with the smoky vetiver making it feel "recently enjoyed" like when you catch whiffs of somebody's pipe in the outside air. Lavender from the top helps keep this clean however, and the aforementioned patchouli coupled with oakmoss round it out to hold on skin, but otherwise they don't get in the way. The whole thing just smells like a bridge between the early 80's and mid 90's in the way it employes the tobacco, with the "smokeroom" aspects of the former mixing with the boozy and fresh aspects of the latter. Open is a fascinating scent to be sure, and there isn't much like it. I'd say this plays well enough as an evening scent due to the smoke but also works in more casual office settings, with plenty of 80's power and longevity to go the day.

I feel the next link in the evolutionary chain is Montana Parfum D'Homme (1989), which adds a ton more oakmoss in favor over the vetiver, removing most of the boozy note until Havana brought it back and sweetened the tobacco. You can almost see how this idea played hopscotch from one house to the next over the years, but among all these scents that I've tried, Roger & Gallet Open seems to have the most perfect balance (sorry Havana, I know you're a fan favorite). Open is just a really interesting "missing link" between early 80's masculine swagger tobacco scents and the brighter, lighter, more leafy tobacco scents to come, which makes sense since it was released smack dab in the middle of 1985. One thing that perplexes me is the meaning of the name "Open", because the scent does not imply wide open spaces or any other kind of outdoorsy vibe. Roger & Gallet doesn't see much distribution in the US, yet this scent floods the market here, and is the only one that kept it's introductory bottle design rather than be swaddled away in a homogeneous "house bottle" design like the others, for what it's worth. Fans of smoky vetiver and tobacco should chomp at the bit for this, especially at the low prices it carries, and is the perfect example of modern style and traditional craftsmanship. I also love how expensive this smells versus how much it actually costs, punching well above it's weight against modern niche scents like Creed Aventus (2010) and Mancera Cedrat Boise (2011). Very well done.
20th July, 2018
Yes, I can see the similarity between Smalto and Jacomo.
Open smells like a cross between the two. I was hesitant at first, but I think I'll keep this one. Very linear and not as "smoky" as Jacomo, but smoky enough for me. I'll use this one liberally and use Jacomo for special occasions. This fragrance works very well in the winter when it is most noticeable. Actually, I love Open by rogeR&Gallet!!!
09th October, 2017 (last edited: 02nd December, 2017)

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