Pasha (1992)
by Cartier

Pasha de Cartier (1992) may be one of a very few fragrances to improve with reformulation. The oakmoss, which originally obscured most of the interesting facets of Cavallier's composition, has now been turned down and you now get to experience the richness of the spices and herbal notes.

I find the current Pasha tremendously satisfying, but it is a fragrance out of time. The original was the product of a moment of transition for masculine fragrances, a kind of halfway mark between powerhouse and clean fougere. Now that it is even cleaner, it strikes an uneasy compromise between the heavy powerhouses and sanitized luxe-niche retro-fougeres of our current moment.

The name Pasha suggests some Middle Eastern feeling, and that's detectable in the spicy opening and the amber-y drydown. The opening feels more old-school than the rest of the fragrance, which is primarily a clean, warm, slightly fruity fougere with an amber-y, sandalwood base.

The new Pasha Parfum (2020) keeps a bit of the spice but emphasizes the sandalwood above all else, creating a smooth, warm effect that nods back to the original while moving it more in line with contemporary tastes.

Soapy old-school sort of scent which plays on a contrast between light and dark. There is a light, herbal-mossy and lavender element which is juxtaposed against a warm cumin and coriander accord. In some ways I guess you could also say it's a contrast of clean vs. dirty as well. The way the brighter, soapy aspect of the composition gives way to the darker, dirtier heart is interesting, and quite clever, but not something I'm totally in love with the smell of. Fans of older scents and more traditional masculines may like this. My experience has been with the current iteration that's available on the market. It would be interesting to smell the vintage juice--I'm sure it's pretty good. For the record, I actually enjoy Pasha Noire. But Noire isn't much more than a typical, modern mainstream men's release, albeit it a well-composed and smooth one, and its relation to Pasha is superficial at best.

A very sweet, fruity, powdered and spicy-woody fougère, and a major yawn. It's not exactly bad, but best avoided by grown ups - unless you're the type that still wears Lynx deodorant.

**/*

Boxed miniature

Dry, woodsy, and old school. Has a nice mint top note, more of a eucalyptus style herbal mint. This is what Creed Viking's father would smell like. Very nice, but a bit dated. Needs to be modernized, with a facelift, and a new bottle. None of the flankers to this have truly done that, so I will keep waiting patiently.

Shares the style and to a point the vibe with Givenchy Xeryus Rouge. Both are sweet and cold, but this is where similarities end. Both are specific in their own right.

Old school and retro without being a "grandpa smell", thus it blends well with the modern world. Very elegant, formal and casual. I think it kind of endured the test of time and deserves to stay around for quite a while longer.

Collectors, frag lovers of all ages in general, especially the old school lovers, will appreciate Pasha a lot. It'll never be overworn and a top choice to wear, but also far from being ignored or not welcome.

Originality 7/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection6/10